I like to fight (balance) bugs with bugs.
StrapAssassin42
Member
I tried that once... brought in 700 lady bugs.... they seemingly disappeared within 2 weeks and i still had bad bugs.
I likely have a good balance now... i don't really see any bad bugs except a few fungus gnats... i have a diverse population of spiders....some really cool looking ones too!
I likely have a good balance now... i don't really see any bad bugs except a few fungus gnats... i have a diverse population of spiders....some really cool looking ones too!
I followed the link to MicrobeMan's website at http://www.microbeorganics.com/#So_You_Wanna_Build_A_Compost_Tea_Brewer This link takes you directly to the section detailing DIY tea brewers.
I found the vortex brewer to be an interesting concept, because I always worry that there isn't enough agitation in the brewer and I may end up with anaerobic pockets. It looks like an awesome concept and I'd love to give it a go, but I have a small worry with the design.
All through this article, and in articles I've been reading elsewhere, people constantly say that airstones are NOT a good option for tea brewing. The general consensus is that they too easily clog, and you get diminishing returns on the airflow each time you fire up the brewer to make a batch of tea. My own personal experiences verifies the clogging of airstones, despite soaking the stones in a hot water / hydrogen peroxide solution after each usage.
Stephen Storch's design uses airstones, though, to lift the water up through the 1.5" PVC return tubes. Is there something about the nature of a turbo vortex design that prevents clogging of the airstones? Has anyone had personal experience they might share using a DIY brewer implementing this design, employing airstones to lift the water through the returns?
I briefly considered merging the bubbler diffuser design with this vortex design. I thought that instead of vinyl air line with airstones attached at the ends, I might increase the size of the return lines to 2" PVC pipes, then run 1/2" PVC pipe - with caps on the end - down the return lines (size increase from 1.5" to 2", in order to offset the displacement caused by 1/2" PVC pipes being run down the return lines). Then, like a bubbler design, just drill some holes at the bottom of said 1/2" PVC pipes.
The problem I figured my proposed design may create, is in getting a high enough concentration of air holes at the bottom of the 1/2" PVC lines, to not restrict air flow. In other words, if I use a pump with an output of 110 liters/hour, Certainly I want to ensure that I'm getting the full 110 liters/hour. To do that, I want to make certain there are enough holes from which the air can escape. Furthermore, I want to make sure these air holes are at the bottom of the 1/2" PVC pipes, in order to emulate the air diffusion of an air stone. But if I just drill a bunch of tiny holes right at the bottom of these pipes, then am I not just recreating an air stone, which could clog, putting me back at square one?
Another option I considered was just running vinyl air tubing down the return lines, much as Stephen did, but to omit the airstones. I've seen this done in many DIY airlift brewers, but those brewers just had one big main return line. For example, http://microbeorganics.com/Simple%20design%20cone%20airlift.pdf Tim's airlift design located on his Microbe Organics website. There is no diffuser involved, just the use of the full volume of air to lift the water up to the return line.
I tend to be lengthy in my requests for helps. Please forgive me, for some reason I just very exhaustively think problems through. It's just how I'm wired.
This time of year finds me extremely busy with lawn renovations, and putting my outdoor flower beds to sleep for the winter. I've been reading through this thread in my free time throughout the last week or so. Unfortunately I've only managed to get through the first 10 or so pages of posts. As such, I realize this exact question may have been addressed previously in this thread. I again beg your pardon if such is the case.
Anyway, thanks a lot for reading everyone. I appreciate your time!
I found the vortex brewer to be an interesting concept, because I always worry that there isn't enough agitation in the brewer and I may end up with anaerobic pockets. It looks like an awesome concept and I'd love to give it a go, but I have a small worry with the design.
All through this article, and in articles I've been reading elsewhere, people constantly say that airstones are NOT a good option for tea brewing. The general consensus is that they too easily clog, and you get diminishing returns on the airflow each time you fire up the brewer to make a batch of tea. My own personal experiences verifies the clogging of airstones, despite soaking the stones in a hot water / hydrogen peroxide solution after each usage.
Stephen Storch's design uses airstones, though, to lift the water up through the 1.5" PVC return tubes. Is there something about the nature of a turbo vortex design that prevents clogging of the airstones? Has anyone had personal experience they might share using a DIY brewer implementing this design, employing airstones to lift the water through the returns?
I briefly considered merging the bubbler diffuser design with this vortex design. I thought that instead of vinyl air line with airstones attached at the ends, I might increase the size of the return lines to 2" PVC pipes, then run 1/2" PVC pipe - with caps on the end - down the return lines (size increase from 1.5" to 2", in order to offset the displacement caused by 1/2" PVC pipes being run down the return lines). Then, like a bubbler design, just drill some holes at the bottom of said 1/2" PVC pipes.
The problem I figured my proposed design may create, is in getting a high enough concentration of air holes at the bottom of the 1/2" PVC lines, to not restrict air flow. In other words, if I use a pump with an output of 110 liters/hour, Certainly I want to ensure that I'm getting the full 110 liters/hour. To do that, I want to make certain there are enough holes from which the air can escape. Furthermore, I want to make sure these air holes are at the bottom of the 1/2" PVC pipes, in order to emulate the air diffusion of an air stone. But if I just drill a bunch of tiny holes right at the bottom of these pipes, then am I not just recreating an air stone, which could clog, putting me back at square one?
Another option I considered was just running vinyl air tubing down the return lines, much as Stephen did, but to omit the airstones. I've seen this done in many DIY airlift brewers, but those brewers just had one big main return line. For example, http://microbeorganics.com/Simple%20design%20cone%20airlift.pdf Tim's airlift design located on his Microbe Organics website. There is no diffuser involved, just the use of the full volume of air to lift the water up to the return line.
I tend to be lengthy in my requests for helps. Please forgive me, for some reason I just very exhaustively think problems through. It's just how I'm wired.
This time of year finds me extremely busy with lawn renovations, and putting my outdoor flower beds to sleep for the winter. I've been reading through this thread in my free time throughout the last week or so. Unfortunately I've only managed to get through the first 10 or so pages of posts. As such, I realize this exact question may have been addressed previously in this thread. I again beg your pardon if such is the case.
Anyway, thanks a lot for reading everyone. I appreciate your time!
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Stalevar: You may use a diffuser or not as indicated in the sketch with a question mark. I use a slotted PVC diffuser in this location but I have access to a PVC machine shop. There are those who have built brewers noted in this thread, successfully without diffuser. Prior to designing the slotted PVC diffuser I used sweetwater bonded glass diffusers which do not clog as easily as other stones. The use of a diffuser gives a little boost in dissolved O2 but not a big deal for a DIY brewer.
Good luck.
Good luck.
any thoughts on amending soil with powdered rice or ground maize and then innoculating with ACT?... powdered rice is used as a substrate for mushrooms so i am thinking beneficial fungus should like it too?
How to stop leaks
How to stop leaks
Nearly ever article on DIY tea brewers agrees that PVC joints are best left unglued, for the sake of ease of cleaning (and this makes sense). I just finished assembling my Turbo Vortex brewer (following Stephen Storch's design from microbeorganics.com). It leaks. Nearly every joint in it slowly leaks. Moreover, I didn't buy the cheap DWV PVC parts. I spent a few more bucks for the pressure PVC fittings (that have greater contact area in the joints), and it still leaks.
How are people avoiding leaks in DIY tea brewing systems with ungluged joints?
How to stop leaks
Nearly ever article on DIY tea brewers agrees that PVC joints are best left unglued, for the sake of ease of cleaning (and this makes sense). I just finished assembling my Turbo Vortex brewer (following Stephen Storch's design from microbeorganics.com). It leaks. Nearly every joint in it slowly leaks. Moreover, I didn't buy the cheap DWV PVC parts. I spent a few more bucks for the pressure PVC fittings (that have greater contact area in the joints), and it still leaks.
How are people avoiding leaks in DIY tea brewing systems with ungluged joints?
Depending on how tight the joint is to begin with, I've used teflon tape or masking tape if I need a tighter fit. It's still going to leak a little, but the tape seems to slow the flow down and isn't that hard to remove if you need to.
Woa how would teflon tape even begin to work on a slip joint? As soon as you shove the pipe into the joint the tape would just peel away. Do you just wrap the end of it, like the part that is going to be close to butting against the end of the mating surface? I could try that, but since I cut them with my sawz all the edges of my pipes aren't the straightest lol.
Guess I'll give teflon a shot, if that doesn't work I'm going to just glue everything and then run a hot water / hydrogen peroxide solution through it after each brew to clean it up. I need it to not leak though so I can run it inside when the cold weather sets in.
Guess I'll give teflon a shot, if that doesn't work I'm going to just glue everything and then run a hot water / hydrogen peroxide solution through it after each brew to clean it up. I need it to not leak though so I can run it inside when the cold weather sets in.
Stalevar - try running it with a tea.
My brewer leaks very slowly before I add my EWC ext.... once the water gets some thickness to it, the leaks stop for me. Also, any problem joints I will glue. I try not to glue both sides of a fitting so I can still clean the pipes with ease and can still be taken fully apart. Also, a rubber mallet or wood blocks help to snug up pipes to fittings. Farting around with these things is part of the fun, Good luck.
Edit: also, try to square your cuts better. That makes a big difference. If you have access to a chop saw, circular saw or something of this nature please use them. It will make a world of difference.
My brewer leaks very slowly before I add my EWC ext.... once the water gets some thickness to it, the leaks stop for me. Also, any problem joints I will glue. I try not to glue both sides of a fitting so I can still clean the pipes with ease and can still be taken fully apart. Also, a rubber mallet or wood blocks help to snug up pipes to fittings. Farting around with these things is part of the fun, Good luck.
Edit: also, try to square your cuts better. That makes a big difference. If you have access to a chop saw, circular saw or something of this nature please use them. It will make a world of difference.
Alright sound advice in both responses above, thanks guys. The masking and teflon idea got me thinking, and perhaps duct tape could work well? It'll stand up to some water better than masking tape I think, and stick to the pipe better than teflon.
I can't believe I didn't think of getting out my miter saw! I have extra pipe so I think I'll cut all the pipe lengths again. After cutting em again I'll glue any that give me trouble.
What do you guys do, use pipe cleaners on the parts or something? If you're not using something to physically scrub every square inch of the inside surface of every pipe, I'm a bit dubious about the benefit of not gluing every single joint...
Does anyone here use a venturi driven vortex brewer, just outa curiosity.
I can't believe I didn't think of getting out my miter saw! I have extra pipe so I think I'll cut all the pipe lengths again. After cutting em again I'll glue any that give me trouble.
What do you guys do, use pipe cleaners on the parts or something? If you're not using something to physically scrub every square inch of the inside surface of every pipe, I'm a bit dubious about the benefit of not gluing every single joint...
Does anyone here use a venturi driven vortex brewer, just outa curiosity.
You can glue only some fittings so you can still disassemble and clean; you can get just about as good a vortex with my simple, single riser design and fewer to zero leaks.
Mark the pipe depth where it fits into the joint. Insert the pipe into the joint about halfway and then put a wrap of tape near where you think the pipe will end up.
Gluing and sanitizing will work as well, just remember to leave the solution active long enough to get the job done. I like to use potassium permanganate because I can visually tell when it is spent, but it seems every time I mention it on ICMag, somebody gets their panties in a wad
After each brew all you need is some anti-bacterial soap and high pressure water. I take my brewer out to my hose and fill a garbage can with water and soap. I let all my pvc pipe and fittings soak while I clean the tank. Then I pull each piece of PVC pipe out one by one and use the ruff side of a sponge and hose water set on jet. I have made at least 20 brews with this brewer and I have no bio film built up using this method. Good luck.
StrapAssassin42
Member
So is the pressure PVC you bought called CPVC? If so that might be an issue.
When researching my aeroponic cloner build i was told to stay away from CPVC because it can slowly leach chemicals into your water. Not entirely sure how reliable that info is because they fit houses with the stuff so idk...just wanted to make you aware.
S
SeaMaiden
CPVC is the good stuff.
Then perhaps it's time to address the issue of disease and pathogen control when using organics. I personally do my very best to keep things as organic and chemical free as possible, however there are times when you have to break out the big guns.
Most of the folks I read on cannabis forums are discussing using products such as chlorine bleach or hydrogen peroxide to sterilize or disinfect. However, the efficacy of these products is questionable. I prefer to use products that are tried and true; quaternary ammonium compounds such as Physan 20, and chlorhexidine, which is not only safe for delicate organisms but is used in surgical and pre-surgical applications for disinfection. Apparently, it is now a common practice to send patients chlorhexidine wipes prior to surgery so that they may do their own pre surgery disinfection scrub. This is apparently to prevent spread of serious infection.
I am familiar with potassium permanganate, but only in aquatic applications, mostly as a binder and chelater to pull particulate matter out of the water column. It's a lovely shade of purple, isn't it? In fact, it's my favorite purple stain!
I learned the most about these things while working at a large public aquarium in southern California.
Mark the pipe depth where it fits into the joint. Insert the pipe into the joint about halfway and then put a wrap of tape near where you think the pipe will end up.
Gluing and sanitizing will work as well, just remember to leave the solution active long enough to get the job done. I like to use potassium permanganate because I can visually tell when it is spent, but it seems every time I mention it on ICMag, somebody gets their panties in a wad
Then perhaps it's time to address the issue of disease and pathogen control when using organics. I personally do my very best to keep things as organic and chemical free as possible, however there are times when you have to break out the big guns.
Most of the folks I read on cannabis forums are discussing using products such as chlorine bleach or hydrogen peroxide to sterilize or disinfect. However, the efficacy of these products is questionable. I prefer to use products that are tried and true; quaternary ammonium compounds such as Physan 20, and chlorhexidine, which is not only safe for delicate organisms but is used in surgical and pre-surgical applications for disinfection. Apparently, it is now a common practice to send patients chlorhexidine wipes prior to surgery so that they may do their own pre surgery disinfection scrub. This is apparently to prevent spread of serious infection.
I am familiar with potassium permanganate, but only in aquatic applications, mostly as a binder and chelater to pull particulate matter out of the water column. It's a lovely shade of purple, isn't it? In fact, it's my favorite purple stain!
I learned the most about these things while working at a large public aquarium in southern California.
bleach is good stuff, very effective, and does not persist in the environment. You can find bleach with a "green seal" or whatever, because it is really easy to make bleach in a sustainable way. So clorox will advertise the shit out of their greenness based on making bleach, which was a fish in a barrel in the first place.
Physan 20 is for use around ornamentals IIRC. I have a bottle somewhere.
I don't know, people routinely swear to me that spider mites require "big guns", but it's not so in my experience. I never fought root aphids, but if I want to smoke chemicals I may as well take less risk and just buy weed.
To me, bringing out the "big guns" to treat my cannabis is a bit absurd. I wind up destroying the very thing I sought to protect: my supply of organic cannabis.
Physan 20 is for use around ornamentals IIRC. I have a bottle somewhere.
I don't know, people routinely swear to me that spider mites require "big guns", but it's not so in my experience. I never fought root aphids, but if I want to smoke chemicals I may as well take less risk and just buy weed.
To me, bringing out the "big guns" to treat my cannabis is a bit absurd. I wind up destroying the very thing I sought to protect: my supply of organic cannabis.
S
SeaMaiden
Please try to remember that I am coming at this from a different perspective and body of knowledge. The fact is that Cl is known to not be a completely effective sterilizer. If it were, it would be more commonly used for specifically sterilization applications in fields such as zoos, aquariums, the hairdressing and manicuring industries, medical and dental 'wet sterilization' techniques, etc, etc, etc. In fact, in my experience in a couple of these fields, the two products I mention are often *preferable*. Not always, but often enough to, in my opinion and experience, to merit more than mere mention.
Both Cl and H2O2 present very real issues with their long term, and often short term destruction of the very materials or surfaces you *need*, for whatever reason, to disinfect. Remember also that, strictly speaking, disinfection or sterilization is different from sanitation. There is an additional problem with both compounds in that in order to kill some pathogens a certain contact time is required. Right there is a problem, as both bleach and H2O2 tend to break down more quickly than these others, especially if the mode of application is wiping or a very brief dip.
Both products I mention are often used, very safely I wish to add, around delicate organisms such as many snakes, frogs, and more aquatic species, including invertebrates, than I can count, let alone remember.
As far as cannabis? I don't know what to say, because I don't know if you've ever faced a total wipe out. I will say this, it's one thing to be prudent, it's another to be dogmatic. Just my opinion, of course. I mean, that the decision of how strictly one must apply another's definition or practices, is, so far, up to them.
I continue to apply what I know to be best practices to the best of my ability and means, and I do my best to remain open-minded, and read as much as I can.
Both Cl and H2O2 present very real issues with their long term, and often short term destruction of the very materials or surfaces you *need*, for whatever reason, to disinfect. Remember also that, strictly speaking, disinfection or sterilization is different from sanitation. There is an additional problem with both compounds in that in order to kill some pathogens a certain contact time is required. Right there is a problem, as both bleach and H2O2 tend to break down more quickly than these others, especially if the mode of application is wiping or a very brief dip.
Both products I mention are often used, very safely I wish to add, around delicate organisms such as many snakes, frogs, and more aquatic species, including invertebrates, than I can count, let alone remember.
As far as cannabis? I don't know what to say, because I don't know if you've ever faced a total wipe out. I will say this, it's one thing to be prudent, it's another to be dogmatic. Just my opinion, of course. I mean, that the decision of how strictly one must apply another's definition or practices, is, so far, up to them.
I continue to apply what I know to be best practices to the best of my ability and means, and I do my best to remain open-minded, and read as much as I can.
you make it sound as if resorting to chemical poisons will cure 100% of problems, implying it is the only way to avoid "total wipe out". However I have seen plenty of threads referring to just that, in chemy gardens. This may be just my impression, but I seem to see more comments about "starting over clean" from chemmy growers.
I think there is going to be a certain number of grow room disasters every year. I truly feel that if we all moved to no till, living soil and if we all avoided poisoning our crops, there would be fewer "total wipeouts" overall. This statement becomes more true the longer the time period you choose for observing. So yes, I am saying that over your lifetime you will harvest more and get paid more if you are strict about staying organic and proactive about sorting things out. For larger operations, this means biological controls and finding ways to sustain more than just crops and pests..
from the physan label:
it's fine to wash your tools with this stuff, but treated cuttings are NOT organic and neither is the product. this stuff is not for edible/consumable crops.
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