2 Week Flower Transplant. Help from experienced PLZ

[UnlimitedGekko]

wassup dudes... ok this is the deal. right now I got this beauty (im getting a digicam cable so I can share the progress) shes about 2- 2 1/2 feet tall.. she has catalyxs that are like half an inch on all the nodes... BUT shes in a small pot with a good soil mix..... Ive been giving her about a pint of water everyday from zepherhills... and I noticed this morning she had a lil powdery stuff on her big fan leaves only..... scary.. and this is the real important part. other than that powdery stuff on the leaves.. hmmmm

I NEED to transplant her.. but I need to buy the materials local, preferably not from a grow shop.

will I kill her if I transplant while shes fruuiting?

ill do some research so im not just a lazy bum feeding off your guys brains so a soil mix.. but im not trying to go crazy.. i just want a nice decent 1st plant.


Thanks all! pics soon to come! the pistils are white and chances are its sour deez

so to sum it up...

1. What soil mix should I use when transplanting.. shes been flowering for 2 weeks aprox.

2. can I transplant a flowering plant without the risk of it dying? should I perform this during the day or at night?

shes in a 3 or 5 gallon pot right now..

 

[RetroGrow]

That "powdery stuff" sounds like powdery mildew.
You'll need to treat it.

 

[MynameStitch]

I had to transplant my plant in my first grow 5 weeks into flowering from 5 gallon pot to 10 gallon. You will not kill her if done right..... you must wait until she needs watering when the soil ball is light as possible, but not dry..... iof you can lay the plant down on it's side and roll the plant over hitting the pot to help pull soil away from the pot.. the stuff that gets stuck then slide her out of her pot and put the new one on. this is as less stress as you can get..... no pulling up on the stem or anything like that.... use some vitamin B1 plant food and you will be all set, but use very little.... too much may cause some problems......

water after you put her into a new pot...... if shes 2 1/2 feet tall and her pot size is 3 gallons.... she is in the correct pot size.... moving to any bigger can cause problems, there root growth is the most the first 2 weeks of flowering after that root growth is slowed down a lot. What makes you think you have to transplant... also note it should not be done unless it's absolutely necessary. If she is in the pot size you say, she does not need to be transplanted. You water a plant everday you will get problems if the plant does not need that much water...... yuo should water the plant until some run off comes out as long as the plant is in it's proper pot size.... and water accordingly every 3 to 5 days... if you need to water plant when it runs off and then you have to water her the same way 2 days later, then the plant is rootbound and should be transplanted.... but other than that..... you got pictures of the mildew you speak off? Sounds like too much moisture from watering everyday and or humidity..... how many plants you got?

 

[UnlimitedGekko]

retro grow... i started a nute mix today.. should i treat with neem oil? i have another question..... is it worth starting a 5 gallon bucket when the 3 gall might be aiight? im sure ill transplant but ftw... i dont wanna ruin it.. should I transplant in the flower stage bro?

 

[UnlimitedGekko]

dude stitch i love you haha no homo thanks bro im set.. pix are already taken

 

[UnlimitedGekko]

vitamin b1? i know i should do better but im getting my supplies homemade or free... fuck homegrownhyrodponic.com i spent 5 gs on a fire cab but theyre out of business in FL and there offered me a job. underground in mia...

 

[UnlimitedGekko]

so should I leave her in her 3 gal? shes growin quick... an i wanna good plant.. its my first.. and its total discreet but fuck it i just got mad bread so I can afford to get some more beans... but i gotta make friends here.. cause I had a pack of somango and lavender from soma and i got em jacked n they were 175 each... no worries.. hopefully i find some freinds cause im scientific and shit and anyone know whos the real deal already knows if you aint a hater yeahhh

 

[UnlimitedGekko]

1 plant.. i just started a nute today... shes in 3 gal.. shes about 2 1/2'... i water every other day.. its been raining for the past 3 days.. i got pics ill post tomorrow... it stated as powder than turned to yellow so im thinking mildew from the rain and deficiency... i dont overwater.. but the rain ya know? but i dont think thanks it. im in S. FL. but about the 3 gal to 5 gal.. i dont wanna take the risk but i want the gain.. if I just transplant it into a soilless mixture the way you said to take it out... will it give it more time to bloom? you the best help so far thnx

 

[UnlimitedGekko]

pm me cause i wanna talk about clones plz.. idk after this one what imma do.. seedbays gone

 

[Rusty Trichome]

If it is powdery mildew, and you don't properly treat it NOW, you will likely face it in future grows. (sticks to all surfaces it comes in contact with, infecting future grows and possibly your health)

Likely it's not the soil, but their growing enviornment that would promote the molds. Too humid, perhaps not enough air circulation. The high humidity can be from the weather, or it can be from watering before lights-out, overwatering, leaving a bucket of water open to the air, poor/no air circulation, insufficient intake/exhaust ratio...

Why do you want to transplant it now that she's almost ready for harvest? Is it an indica dominate strain, or a sativa dominate?

The vitamin B-1 myth is just that...a myth. Click on the link below to read about this myth, and to learn what's REALLY needed for healthy transplants...

The Vitamin B-1 (thiamine) Myth continues...

"The RealityApplying vitamin B-1, or thiamine, to root systems of whole plants does not stimulate root growth. This
is a myth that refuses to die, though it has been repeatedly refuted in the scientific literature. To
understand why, it helps to think about this in a historical perspective...."

"The Bottom Line
• Vitamin B-1, aka thiamine, does not reduce transplant shock or stimulate new root growth on
plants outside the laboratory
• A nitrogen fertilizer is adequate for transplanting landscape plants; avoid use of “transplant
fertilizers” that contain phosphate
• Healthy plants will synthesize their own thiamine supply
• Healthy soils contain beneficial microbes that synthesize thiamine as well
• Difficult-to-transplant species may be aided by application of auxin-containing products in
addition to nitrogen, but read the label and don’t add unnecessary and potentially harmful
chemicals (this includes organics!)
• Adequate soil moisture is crucial for new root growth; be sure to irrigate new transplantsfrequently and use mulch to reduce evaporation..."

(THE ABOVE INCLUDES SUPERTHRIVE)

Read the article. It'll save you time, effort, money and helps to keep you from learning bullshit gardening techniques and products...

Below is a link to many more gardening and horticultural myths. It's worth checking it out and saving for reference. You can read for yourselves, and you'll be able to see the bullshit advice some "experts" offer in the online forums.

Horticultural Myth Files

 

[UnlimitedGekko]

mmk first off thanks so much.

it is powdery.. its outdoor so the circulation is good.. its been raining here for a week.. but i think it was just starting to from powdery stuff right the day before it started raining. how do I fix it? neem oil? shes soooo close but if I transplant her I mightbe able to let her flower for a little longer after she regenerates from the 3 gal to 5 gal... the to be honest I have no clue. but down here we get medical.. and its from a clone. so you already know yeahhhhh the pistils are pure white.. is that better than orange?

another thing...
I water her right after the sun goes down... I mixed the nutrients up 4 tblspns per gallon of zepherhills and I have her half a gallon last night.. should I not water at night??

and actually it might be a hybrid.. mostly indica.. its lanky n tall as hell but very bushy

 

[UnlimitedGekko]

so bro... what do you think? is it gonna die if I transplant it carefully? this late in the stage? I didnt really understand

• Difficult-to-transplant species may be aided by application of auxin-containing products in
addition to nitrogen, but read the label and don’t add unnecessary and potentially harmful
chemicals (this includes organics!)

 

[UnlimitedGekko]

ill keep it in the 3 gal if im not gonna get waaay more in a 5 gal... you think?

 

[Rusty Trichome]

Do the important stuff first. Get rid of the residue (mildew) if that's what it is, and correct the conditions that brought it.

Indica's tighter buds trap and keep moisture. They prefer/need lower humidity IMHO. I keep an oscillating fan blowing back-n-forth on mine at all times. During some seasons, might be a bad idea to spray 'em all the time. Might have to adjust watering/feeding times so the room can burn-off some of the humidity from the soil. Some folks need a de-humidifier or better air exchange. Sounds daunting, but it's not if you eliminate causes one at a time.

Were it a sativa dominate I'd say go ahead and transplant. But it's 50-50 since they're already 5 weeks in. But if there's a rootbound issue or she's running water straight through the medium, transplant is an option. Stress inducing, yes. Death...not unless you drop her or snap the mainstem.

If one does transplant under these conditions, depending on the soil the gardener is using, the fresh soil should have enough in it to provide for the lady to finish. Some soils you DON'T want to do this with, like Miracle Grow 6 month formula.
But transplanting into fresh (organic) soil, you'll likely be getting a large ammount of nitrogen uptake which is usually avoided in flower. This could make her stand taller (likely stretch a tad) and turn deeper green. (storing the nutrients)

You will likely want to cut-back on flowering nutes a bit till you see what she has to say about all this. Takes a few days till she get's over the shock, but cannabis is kinda studly. Keep in mind that once the soil is in there, you can't un-add the (growth) nutrients she'll be getting now.

 

[Stress_test]

I had to transplant my plant in my first grow 5 weeks into flowering from 5 gallon pot to 10 gallon. You will not kill her if done right..... you must wait until she needs watering when the soil ball is light as possible, but not dry..... iof you can lay the plant down on it's side and roll the plant over hitting the pot to help pull soil away from the pot.. the stuff that gets stuck then slide her out of her pot and put the new one on. this is as less stress as you can get..... no pulling up on the stem or anything like that.... use some vitamin B1 plant food and you will be all set, but use very little.... too much may cause some problems......

water after you put her into a new pot...... if shes 2 1/2 feet tall and her pot size is 3 gallons.... she is in the correct pot size.... moving to any bigger can cause problems, there root growth is the most the first 2 weeks of flowering after that root growth is slowed down a lot. What makes you think you have to transplant... also note it should not be done unless it's absolutely necessary. If she is in the pot size you say, she does not need to be transplanted. You water a plant everday you will get problems if the plant does not need that much water...... yuo should water the plant until some run off comes out as long as the plant is in it's proper pot size.... and water accordingly every 3 to 5 days... if you need to water plant when it runs off and then you have to water her the same way 2 days later, then the plant is rootbound and should be transplanted.... but other than that..... you got pictures of the mildew you speak off? Sounds like too much moisture from watering everyday and or humidity..... how many plants you got?

Yep.

I don't know what studies indicate that vitamin B1 isn't beneficial when transplanting but my own results and experience indicates otherwise.
I use Lilly-Miller plant starter w/vit B1 regularly throughout the growth cycle an wouldn't really want to transplant or even grow weed without it. In my opinion it is as important as H2O2 in the garden.

If you mix 1/4 cup of hydrogen peroxide with 1 quart of sterile water and spray the plant down good, top and bottoms of the leaves, and the stem. Paying close attention to areas that have exceptionally thick growth, you will probably kill the powder: if it is PM. A couple of repeated daily applications, usually eliminates PM.

 

[UnlimitedGekko]

Do the important stuff first. Get rid of the residue (mildew) if that's what it is, and correct the conditions that brought it.

Indica's tighter buds trap and keep moisture. They prefer/need lower humidity IMHO. I keep an oscillating fan blowing back-n-forth on mine at all times. During some seasons, might be a bad idea to spray 'em all the time. Might have to adjust watering/feeding times so the room can burn-off some of the humidity from the soil. Some folks need a de-humidifier or better air exchange. Sounds daunting, but it's not if you eliminate causes one at a time.

Were it a sativa dominate I'd say go ahead and transplant. But it's 50-50 since they're already 5 weeks in. But if there's a rootbound issue or she's running water straight through the medium, transplant is an option. Stress inducing, yes. Death...not unless you drop her or snap the mainstem.

If one does transplant under these conditions, depending on the soil the gardener is using, the fresh soil should have enough in it to provide for the lady to finish. Some soils you DON'T want to do this with, like Miracle Grow 6 month formula.
But transplanting into fresh (organic) soil, you'll likely be getting a large ammount of nitrogen uptake which is usually avoided in flower. This could make her stand taller (likely stretch a tad) and turn deeper green. (storing the nutrients)

You will likely want to cut-back on flowering nutes a bit till you see what she has to say about all this. Takes a few days till she get's over the shock, but cannabis is kinda studly. Keep in mind that once the soil is in there, you can't un-add the (growth) nutrients she'll be getting now.

Ok.. well Im going to transplant.. im gonna use this soil from a grow shop for 5 bucks and get a 5 gal conatiner... now should I add anything to the new soil b4 transplanting?

ive kinda already fed her flowering nutes for 2 days already... im gonna take care of the powder... any other advice? thanks dude

 

[Rusty Trichome]

I don't know what studies indicate that vitamin B1 isn't beneficial when transplanting but my own results and experience indicates otherwise.
I use Lilly-Miller plant starter w/vit B1 regularly throughout the growth cycle an wouldn't really want to transplant or even grow weed without it. In my opinion it is as important as H2O2 in the garden.

Hmm...didn't read the links I provided, huh? You might want to check a couple of 'em out...as some of your "Plant Biology" insights are wrong. Get's old watching you coming in half-prepared, yet you want to considder yourself a troubleshooter? And you have the nerve to give bad reps points to other's, when you don't even know what you're talking about...? Laughable.
Damn near tragic.
Since I listed the link backing my statements, and you have provided nothing in the form of factual offerings...I'll stick with the WSU horticulturist(s), and avoid much more comment on your "thoughts".
You post marketing hype, I post facts...I guess there's a balance there somewhere...

If you mix 1/4 cup of hydrogen peroxide with 1 quart of sterile water and spray the plant down good, top and bottoms of the leaves, and the stem. Paying close attention to areas that have exceptionally thick growth, you will probably kill the powder: if it is PM. A couple of repeated daily applications, usually eliminates PM.

"you will probably kill the powder"... Seriously? PM isn't really something you'll want to dick around with. How long should he play around with it before he's fucked?

If you get a product that is specifically for PM, you won't have to worry about peroxide strength frying your leaves from overuse or from overstrength/understrength homebrews that can do more damage than good if you get it wrong the first time. Conversely, if you go with too weak a solution, you are adding to the issue, not correcting it.

As a newbie, I'd go with a commercial product until I get a better handle on recognizing issues and knowing how to PROPERLY deal with 'em.

... now should I add anything to the new soil b4 transplanting?

Nope.

any other advice? thanks dude

Watch out for advise from wanna-bee's.

 

[MynameStitch]

dude stitch i love you haha no homo thanks bro im set.. pix are already taken

unless your female.... no homo comment taken wrong... lol even if it I was male.... no offended at all

 

[MynameStitch]

Yep.

I don't know what studies indicate that vitamin B1 isn't beneficial when transplanting but my own results and experience indicates otherwise.
I use Lilly-Miller plant starter w/vit B1 regularly throughout the growth cycle an wouldn't really want to transplant or even grow weed without it. In my opinion it is as important as H2O2 in the garden.

If you mix 1/4 cup of hydrogen peroxide with 1 quart of sterile water and spray the plant down good, top and bottoms of the leaves, and the stem. Paying close attention to areas that have exceptionally thick growth, you will probably kill the powder: if it is PM. A couple of repeated daily applications, usually eliminates PM.

vitamin b1 is very beneficial in many thing, immune stumulation for the plants and stress reduction, slows down stress reactions when the plant has had stress.... (obviously lol)

 

[Rusty Trichome]

The Myth of Vitamin Stimulants:

The Myth of Vitamin Stimulants:

I would love to see your supporting literature. Since apparently nobody likes to click-n-learn, I'll copy-n-paste post the whole atricle for ya.
For those that don't know what horticulture is, here's the Wikipedia definition:
"Horticulture is the industry and science of plant cultivation including the process of preparing soil for the planting of seeds, tubers, or cuttings."

Quite applicable, and quite accurate.

From the head of Washington State University's Horticulture Department...

The Myth of Vitamin Stimulants:

"Vitamin B-1 reduces transplant shock by stimulating new root growth"
The Myth
Ever seen this advertisement?

“[Product X, which contains vitamin B-1] stimulates the quick formation of new root hairs and revitalizes the delicate feeder roots that are often damaged in transplanting.

[Product X] is especially designed to hasten the development of bareroot roses, shrubs, shade trees and bedding
plants that have been moved to new locations. It helps plants become established quickly and ensures
vigorous growth.”

Another adds a little scientific terminology to convince you:
“Vitamin B-1 (plus minor elements and chelating agents) is great for root growth and helps reduce transplant shock.”

Or how about this one?
“The combination of Vitamin B-1 with essential micro nutrients forms a highly effective mixture...and lessens the chances of transplant shock and plant stress.”

Aren’t you convinced that if you don’t use products with Vitamin B-1 your transplants will suffer?
Apparently administrators at one large university are. Under their “Typical Tree Protection and Relocation Specifications” is the following: “48 hours prior to cutting, an application of vitamin B-1
shall be administered to the rootball of the tree.”
If a university requires this practice, it must be legitimate, right?

The Reality

Applying vitamin B-1, or thiamine, to root systems of whole plants does not stimulate root growth. This is a myth that refuses to die, though it has been repeatedly refuted in the scientific literature. To understand why, it helps to think about this in a historical perspective.

Many decades ago the plant growth regulators called auxins were isolated and characterized. Auxins were found to stimulate cell elongation in both root and shoot tissues. Commercial preparations were developed that contained auxin and vitamin B-1 among other ingredients. Research in 1949 found improved root development in plants treated with one of these preparations (Transplantone, which contains both auxin and thiamine), but noted the importance of auxins in this response.

Further research throughout the last half of the 20th century investigating the application of auxins to root systems
suggested that auxins may stimulate root growth, but that vitamin B-1 on its own does not.

So what does work for stimulating root growth and reducing transplant shock? A review of the historical and current literature suggests the following:

Indole butyric acid (IBA) is one of the most common auxin formulations especially in tissue culture.
In cuttings, it has been found to increase the number of roots, to increase rooting percentage, to increase both parameters, or to do neither. IBA has had some success in root regeneration in transplanted trees; it may help redirect resources to the roots by suppressing crown growth.

Naphthylacetic acid (NAA) is also a commonly used auxin and often the active ingredient in commercial preparations. NAA tends to be toxic to seedling root development, as it inhibits primary root growth and enhances lateral root growth.
This latter activity may account for NAA’s success in regenerating roots of transplanted and root-pruned trees.
Like IBA, NAA apparently suppresses crown growth, which also may
redirect resources to the roots.

Paclobutrazol (PBZ) is another plant growth regulator that seems to stimulate root growth in containerized as well as established tree species. Like the auxins, PBZ reduces crown growth which may assist with root resources.

Fungicides may increase root growth, but overall this is not beneficial to the plant. Fungicides kill beneficial mycorrhizal species, and the lack of mycorrhizal colonization means that plants must put more resources into root growth than they would if mycorrhizae were present.

Furthermore, there are beneficial fungi and bacteria that control pathogenic microbes and roots colonized by beneficial microbes
have been shown to grow more than those without.
Nitrogen supplements can improve root growth, and conversely the absence of nitrogen will depress root growth. Uptake competition from bacteria, fungi, and other plants can be intense and so nitrogen is often limiting.

Vitamin B-1 (thiamine) is an important component of tissue culture media, in which isolated plant tissues can be propagated. Its use for stimulating root growth in whole plants is not supported in the literature and one study even reported that root growth was greater in the control treatment (water) than with thiamine.
Plants in the field manufacture their own source of thiamine and it is therefore unnecessary to add any
additional levels. Many fungi and bacteria associated with plant roots also produce thiamine, so it’s
likely that healthy soils will contain adequate levels of this vitamin without amendment.

Why does the mystique of vitamin B-1 transplant tonics still persist after decades of scientific debunking?

The Bottom Line
• Vitamin B-1, aka thiamine, does not reduce transplant shock or stimulate new root growth on plants outside the laboratory
• A nitrogen fertilizer is adequate for transplanting landscape plants; avoid use of “transplant fertilizers” that contain phosphate
• Healthy plants will synthesize their own thiamine supply
• Healthy soils contain beneficial microbes that synthesize thiamine as well
• Difficult-to-transplant species may be aided by application of auxin-containing products in addition to nitrogen, but read the label and don’t add unnecessary and potentially harmful
chemicals (this includes organics!)
• Adequate soil moisture is crucial for new root growth; be sure to irrigate new transplants frequently and use mulch to reduce evaporation.

The Myth of Vitamin Stimulants