You do the Hokey-Pokey and you turn yourself around...that's what it's all about.
As....long as you do some kind of dance naked around a fire....
As....long as you do some kind of dance naked around a fire....
Seed+Dirt+Water= fuckin awesome!...... Right?
Fuck,.....
I can't calculate exactly how fucking long that is!
Seed+Dirt+Water= fuckin awesome!...... Right?
Joke thread?
all my advanced growing and breeding techniques are no joke.
Light...water...and love is all you need.
What's wrong with your plant?...it's fucked.
Just grow another one.
From a while back.
Anyone who gets this wrong...FAILS!!!
No, no, no, it's not the moon, it's not the light. Not at all. It is the opposite of light. It is the dark we want. Not an ordinary dark, we want the deepest dark that haunts mens souls. Not even their very souls but the depth of their bowels, the dark rich bile of darkness. That ever enveloping velvet darkness that the ordinary have never seen. Dancing naked would seem silly in this darkness, this is between you and the dark, and the dark is everything, you are nothing. That's the dark we are drawn to seek. You know it's right when your deepest never been told fears, those fears now feel trivial. And not for one moment then the lights come back and everything is alright. This darkness has staying power that trumps any light. And you need this darkness for twelve hours for flowering to start..."..scrappy
Whaddya tryin ta say here pardner? You sayin dancin ain't necessitarious? When Swami says it IS!!
Who are you to contradict Swami K???
It's that old ying and yang thing. While it's true swami is light,(ying) swami is also darkness (yang). He is everything, and he is nothing, he is world and universe, mouse turd and mouse. You find some of the answers in swami's leather bound study course, ($299.99). In fact, for advanced swamiphiles, like yourself, Swami can give you a telepathic message to make the direct connections from his bright light to your dimmer one for only $79.59, although you want swami's antenna hat kit ($69.54) for a stronger signal. These are made for swami out of blessed aluminum, and comes in a handy roll.....
There are two fundamental approaches that growers, in search of an organic soil mix, can take. The direct and time-saving route is to copy or emulate the recipe and procedures of an experienced grower whose work you know and trust. Once you've had a couple grows w/ the new mix and gain confidence, there's plenty of time to embellish and add your signature if you wish. I have a seasoned grower to draw on and would've gone that route if, only, I was wired that way.
The second, more energy and time consuming route, the one that I took, is to drill down your custom base mix by experimenting w/ different systems, materials, and nute ratios until you stabilize and land on the mix or mixes that you're going to roll with which, if you are like me, frees you up to experiment w/ something else that is deemed to need experimenting on. As fate would have it, the soil mix that I discovered, is essentially the same mix my seasoned growing confidant had laid out for me two years earlier.
I use 2 different recipes- one for veg cycle and one for flowering. I use the veg recipe for seedlings, but at a lower nute concentration. Because a seed provides all of the nutrition that a plant will need for the first days of it's life, I create a thumb sized hole in the 3" container I plant them in and after dusting in endomycos I fill it w/ a 3-1 coir : seedling mix before planting and watering in. The roots need travel only 1/2" to contact endos and the custom soil mix that was prepared just for them.
Coir- midrange textures- large chunks and powder are not your friends. Sea salt can be an issue. If so, I flush until I get an ec reading in the 100-200 range, (not true ec- ec reading as volumetric tool.) 100-200 is an arbitrary range- lower could be more optimum, or 100 could be overkill. If someone has a better handle on sodium chloride/sea salt and it's effects on plant growth than I, please speak up. In either case, I can tell you that the 100-200 ec range works. Ideally, you will have a trustworthy, consistent source and flushing will be a moot point.
Rice Hulls- As far as perlite is concerned, I'm a bigot. Used to love the stuff- built a system around it. Today, I have a strong distaste for the stuff and because I use some of the soil from my high performing containers when I make new mixes, I never can seem to get rid of the stuff. I'm not going to lay the virtues of rice hulls on you, other than to say they are environmentally friendly, sustainable, don't require a learning curve to use, don't pose the potential security probs that perlite (and pumice to a lesser extent) poses and they make your soil nicer to look at. A 1:1 rice hull (rh) : water flush may not be necessary, but that's my procedure.
Soaks/Cooking-
After the rh has been drained and the water has been squeezed out of the coir to give it a nice, spongy dry consistency, I process them. I'll fill you in w/ the quantities, %'s and ratios in a follow up post, but for now, I'll to stick to the procedures and ingredients I use along w/ my rationale for using them.
Note: although coir has a trace amt of nutritional value, I don't count it in w/ my formulas.
Coir- 24 hour soak in solution using the same water soluble minerals that I use in my soil and foliar feeds. Because I've got H2O soluble minerals to work w/, why not let them infuse and spread out evenly throughout my base soil components while I'm moistening them up? I'll add the dry nutrients that aren't water soluble to my mix later.
-- H2O soluble silica and 50+ trace elements (Nutri-Min)- re: Silica is soil's most abundant element and coir is essentially devoid of it. Same applies to trace minerals.
-- Sulfate of Potash, (Potassium Sulfate) *extra fines* re: 100% soluble K and sulfur source.
Rice Hulls-
-- strain a 2x solution of FPE- a DIY 'fermented plant extract' or "plant juice', save the drain off- it is usable.
re: Filters out latent solids from FPE and embeds catalysts, amino acids, and other good things into the rh. Ancient Organics and EJ are two of the more familiar labels that carry fermented nutes and I suggest using them instead of DIY ferments. which are a tricky and risky. I put DIY ferments in the experimental category.
-- ACTs - their benefits have been well documented.
-- Cold Pressed Liquid Kelp- optional
re: cold pressed to get the full pallet of available active agents, hormonal stimulants and optional because, depending upon your ACT, it may be redundant and unnecessary.
Processed in a black 5 gal bucket- loosely covered, on a heating pad and/or under a light in the growing room to let the mixture 'cook' for 24 hours.
That's Stage I. Stage II to and a lot more to follow.