T
TREE KING
im not trying to hook it up to a garden hose im trying to hook it up to a 5/8'' outside diameter 1/2'' inside dia hose
im not trying to hook it up to a garden hose im trying to hook it up to a 5/8'' outside diameter 1/2'' inside dia hose
bobweirsshorts
New member
Well then you need a reducing bushing that goes to 1.5" i.d and a clamp. Like what the link from ridgid says..........or explain that to a guy at a plumbing wholesaler, or look it up on the internet or phone roto router or joe the plumber or tell buddy at home depot or lowes or wherever the fawk
Like i said in the beginning, explain/show the pump to buddy rocker in the plumbing aisle, tell him what you want to connect it to and voila, he gives you the goods. Next thing you know your home blowin more fluid then Peter North on a Saturday night
T
TREE KING
i appreciate it bob. il get everything handled at home depot
bobweirsshorts
New member
Attachments
T
TREE KING
i got something like that, that came with a submersible pump i bought a while ago. i gotta remember to bring those to the store with me to see if one fits
hi, tree king! you've got a difficult problem here. is there any way to move the reservoir upstairs? if you did that you could fill it from a faucet no problem. most house water supplies operate at around 80 psi.
if you absolutely have to go the pump route you need to figure the exact amount of head or vertical distance the pump has to lift water. then you will need a positive displacement pump. these are usually big, heavy duty, and expensive.
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/positive-displacement-pumps-d_414.html
the "pumps" used by us and fish people are really just blowers and so suffer greatly from any back pressure. they are not designed to do much lifting.
you could use a positive displacement pump rated for this but you should not use a reducer fitting as this will penalize the pump. any time you use a pump you should use the same diameter hose as the pump outlet if you want the pump to perform to it's rated capacity.
also, keep the hose length as short as possible to minimize line resistance.
good luck!
d9
if you absolutely have to go the pump route you need to figure the exact amount of head or vertical distance the pump has to lift water. then you will need a positive displacement pump. these are usually big, heavy duty, and expensive.
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/positive-displacement-pumps-d_414.html
the "pumps" used by us and fish people are really just blowers and so suffer greatly from any back pressure. they are not designed to do much lifting.
you could use a positive displacement pump rated for this but you should not use a reducer fitting as this will penalize the pump. any time you use a pump you should use the same diameter hose as the pump outlet if you want the pump to perform to it's rated capacity.
also, keep the hose length as short as possible to minimize line resistance.
good luck!
d9
T
TREE KING
ive got about 10-12 ft vertical to go up just so you know. o no does this mean im gonna have to buy a bigger hose now. its always something. before i end up spending a bunch more money on a positive displacement pump im gonna see if this sump pump will do the job. i cant really blow alot of money right now if i can help it. just so you know theres no getting around it, i have to pump the water
What about tying into the existing plumbing? Perhaps a Washing Machine Hookup or if you didn't need massive GMP a Tap in Refidgerator line.
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TREE KING
the Washing Machine Hookup or Refidgerator line wouldnt work but my plan was to put a bucket under the bath tub faucet, fill the bucket while the faucet is running continuously, then the pump would be in the bucket pumping the water.
could i just hook up a hose to the bath tub faucet and run it 80 ft going 10-12ft vertically and then i wont even need a pump?
T
TREE KING
oops i totally forgot i would need a pump anyway to pump it back out of the res
unfortunately, just buying a bigger hose may not accomplish your objective if the pump just plain lacks the head capability.
what does the pump manufacturer say about head ratings? look at this page for mag-drives and it should give you an idea of capabilities.
http://www.marinedepot.com/Danner_M...ter_Pumps-Danner_Mfg.-DN1111-FIWPSBUF-vi.html
i own 2 of the 950's you see here and they have 3/4" pipe thread outlets. a 1500-1600 gph pump should have a 1-1.5" outlet.
your 5/8" hose is definitely too small.
do you have to have 80' or can you shorten the length?
editing to say that if you have a bathtub faucet you must have a shower head. if so, put a "y" fitting with 2 cut off valves in line before the shower head. simple 1/2" pipe fittings. then your hose is connected to one of those with an adapter.
what does the pump manufacturer say about head ratings? look at this page for mag-drives and it should give you an idea of capabilities.
http://www.marinedepot.com/Danner_M...ter_Pumps-Danner_Mfg.-DN1111-FIWPSBUF-vi.html
i own 2 of the 950's you see here and they have 3/4" pipe thread outlets. a 1500-1600 gph pump should have a 1-1.5" outlet.
your 5/8" hose is definitely too small.
do you have to have 80' or can you shorten the length?
editing to say that if you have a bathtub faucet you must have a shower head. if so, put a "y" fitting with 2 cut off valves in line before the shower head. simple 1/2" pipe fittings. then your hose is connected to one of those with an adapter.
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Lets remember if pumping water up into your attic somewhere .... your trusses may not be rated to hold that kind of weight. Its a ceiling not a floor ... just some food for thought..... water is very heavy
Good tip, Babba, that could be a real nightmare.
Positioning the res over a load-bearing wall should do the trick.70 gl of water is almost 600lb.
If the OP has trusses, they'll hold much more weight than stick joists. 600 lbs could flat ferk up joists. Even if the res didn't crash through the ceiling, the weight could warp the joists it's sitting on.
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TREE KING
Lets remember if pumping water up into your attic somewhere .... your trusses may not be rated to hold that kind of weight. Its a ceiling not a floor ... just some food for thought..... water is very heavy
its not really an attic, its an attic converted into a bedroom. not gonna be a problem
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TREE KING
ive pretty much came to the conclusion that im gonna have to buy a bigger hose. its common sense if you really think about it. it is what it is. more money down the drain. im still gonna get the sump pump though
bobweirsshorts
New member
You can connect a garden hose to the shower head or the sink with an adapter. If you have just hose, then you can get garden hose attachments to put on one or both ends.
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/balcony/msg0518563019725.html
Search google or call a plumbing wholesaler and ask for the adapter. K.I.S.S. As for pumping it out, well once you get the flow going it will syphon itself out cuz its flowing down. You could use a manual pump to pump out. Just something to prime the line like a priming bulb on an outboard motor gas line.
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/balcony/msg0518563019725.html
Search google or call a plumbing wholesaler and ask for the adapter. K.I.S.S. As for pumping it out, well once you get the flow going it will syphon itself out cuz its flowing down. You could use a manual pump to pump out. Just something to prime the line like a priming bulb on an outboard motor gas line.
bobweirsshorts
New member
Good tip, Babba, that could be a real nightmare.
70 gl of water is almost 600lb.
If the OP has trusses, they'll hold much more weight than stick joists. 600 lbs could flat ferk up joists. Even if the res didn't crash through the ceiling, the weight could warp the joists it's sitting on.
Cross brace the truss's that its sitting on and then lay a piece of 3/4 ply wood down and put the rez on top of the ply wood. The ply will displace the weight and the cross braces will prevent warping/twisting.
Very Good point that you brought up!
Trusses are like unitized car bodies. They're fastened together at more points than stick-building. Trusses have strategic verts that incorporate the strength of the rafter to the respective joist.
If you have the load-bearing wall option, take it. Even if the attic has been remodeled to a bedroom, the load-bearing wall is the strongest area of the attic floor.
If you have the load-bearing wall option, take it. Even if the attic has been remodeled to a bedroom, the load-bearing wall is the strongest area of the attic floor.
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TREE KING
im not even gonna mess with any shower heads or anything like that right now. the way i see it i need a pump no matter what so im gonna get that and a hose. it says on the sump pump that it goes 10ft vertical so the way i see it that shouldnt be a problem. im only gonna start getting nervous if you guys start saying a sump pump wont work
