Bonide Liquid Copper Fungicide ?

[Tactical Farmer]

got a bottle of this stuff for slug & fungus (blight) control in the tomato garden & i thinking on giving it a try on some outdoor stuff for Botrytis aka: budrot ?

been cycling neem, greencure, monterey garden (spinosad), organocide, serinade BT, & silica which helps but there not 100% effective in preventing some loss to budrot & some pm around here. so im hoping this may be helpful with preventing late season outdoor mold ?

there isn't any info on copper sprays here so hopefully the experts can tune in.

ITEM = http://www.bonide.com/products/product.php?category_id=811

INFO = http://www.bonide.com/lbonide/backlabels/l811.pdf

MSDS = http://www.bonide.com/lbonide/msds/msds811.pdf

Any other good tips for this problem ?

Much luck with compost tea sprays, microbes, etc ?

 

[guest2012y]

lactobacillus culture in spray form with a surfactant. Want a recipe? Just as effective as other organic controls where it becomes the mandatory task of applying every 4 or 5 days.

 

[supermanlives]

how does copper smoke? not sure i would want any

 

[MIway]

how does copper smoke? not sure i would want any

just like sulfur, maybe with a bit more 'bite', but distinct. i like it more that straight neem oil, which is more for a dinner salad topping, but does go well with a nice red wine... the fungicides in there help bring out the subtleties of the metallic foliars, which if balanced, leaves a slight tingling on the tip of the tongue & roof of the mouth. good shit man, good shit.

 

[Tactical Farmer]

ever lose 1/4 - 1/2 a gorilla garden to rot ? & or be forced to pull early ? & or tediously cut out rot while growing & at harvest ?

if you have ever grown outdoors you would know what a huge problem this is.

who said they were going to spray it on buds ?

flowering is just starting so there are 3 to 4 weeks where prevention sprays can make or break the entire season.

last time I checked copper was a natural mineral from the earth that plants need ?

Anyway the Lacto culture is going to get used once buds are developed during the final month since its the safest option but its key to keep the bugs & there shit off the plants while the buds are forming & hit them with sprays before the problem is visable.

 

[MIway]

ever lose 1/4 - 1/2 a gorilla garden to rot ? & or be forced to pull early ? & or tediously cut out rot while growing & at harvest ?

if you have ever grown outdoors you would know what a huge problem this is.

who said they were going to spray it on buds ?

flowering is just starting so there are 3 to 4 weeks where prevention sprays can make or break the entire season.

last time I checked copper was a natural mineral from the earth that plants need ?

Anyway the Lacto culture is going to get used once buds are developed during the final month since its the safest option but its key to keep the bugs & there shit off the plants while the buds are forming & hit them with sprays before the problem is visable.

Think we were just playin around a bit... little stoned, late afternoon... wishing it were Friday already... built up posts for the forums... lol ;-)

 

[Tactical Farmer]

Its all good

gorilla gardening is ALOT of work & stress as some know so if a few applications of this in early flower brings some positive results then its worth a try.

The last 3 seasons there has been alot of rain & dew that last month (which is a big part of the problem) so the plants have plenty of time to get cleaned off from this month of sprays.

 

[MIway]

Admittedly, I don't grow outdoors... but it would seem next to an impossible task to not take some foliar measures... just don't see how the plants I've grown inside could hold up to swinging elements + moisture.

I would think that certain strains are hardier than others though... and picking one of those would go a long way in lessening the issue.

Personally, I would spray, but would bump it up a notch... away from sulfur & copper, something with better residual activity... and that is as far as I can take it in this forum. lol ;-)

 

[Tactical Farmer]

The weather the last 3 seasons has been ideal for bodrot fungus & I expect nothing but the same this year (& next).

no rain when you need it & lots when you dont want it (end of season).

I have been reading up on copper sulfate on some organic gardening sites tonight & copper is highly praised for fruit, tomato, etc, fungal problems.

Strain selection is a HUGE part, working with 5 new types looking for the most resistant one.

Hopefully with the new products & aggressive spraying they will all be highly resistant

Ill take a strain that produces 1/2 the yield vs. a fat bastard that can't deal with Botrytis.

* Powdered lime around the base helps also.

 

[MIway]

I've been reading the lit on KSi... from the ag research... they really do seem to have results with foliar app's... in open commercial crops... not a fool proof method, but a potential tool.

 

[Tactical Farmer]

Heres the deal, do I enjoy buying a bin full of sprays ? = HELL NO

Do I like making cool homemade concoctions ? = HELL YEAH

But when your life depends on getting good harvests from veggie gardens & herb garden every year some serious decisions have to be made.

There are SO MANY types of pest, bacterial / fungal, etc, etc, problems that products like this IMO should be strongly considered.

I might only spray each location once but im going to give it a try as my studying has shown that properly / carefully using copper sulfate ain't no biggie.

 

[schwagg]

Actinovate might be a better choice. never used it but the next time i see pm creepin' it's getting blasted with it. just an idea for ya.

 

[Space Case]

Admittedly, I don't grow outdoors... but it would seem next to an impossible task to not take some foliar measures... just don't see how the plants I've grown inside could hold up to swinging elements + moisture.

I would think that certain strains are hardier than others though... and picking one of those would go a long way in lessening the issue.

Personally, I would spray, but would bump it up a notch... away from sulfur & copper, something with better residual activity... and that is as far as I can take it in this forum. lol ;-)

You have no faith in the natural order and balance of nature. Indoors there is no such thing, but outdoors, there is a certain balance. I think growing outdoors is about the right balance, crop diversity, strain acclimation, and preventive measures. My outdoor organic soil bed that is full of herbs, tomatoes, aromatics, peppers, and some Deep Chunks, is doing fucking amazing. The combination of various peppers, catnip, peppermint, basil, tomatoes, squash, and strawberries are all feeding off a rich amended soil mix very well, and the crop diversity lends to preventing various insects. Haven't seen a spot of PM or mites out there yet, and I have tended very little. There have been some thrips, but nothing to be super on alert for. I was even on the watch for caterpillars last full moon, but they have been pretty slow this season (knock on wood).

I think growing strains that are more acclimated to your latitude, altitude, climate, and humidity is precedent to preventing bud rot and other mold/mildew in an outdoor grow. If you live somewhere with high average relative humidity, you better be growing some hearty hazes or pure sativas with an airy bud structure. While if you are up at 10,000 feet elevation, you better be growing a hearty stout indica that will finish before the early freeze!!!

If you talk to the old school guys, the ideal variety is one that you can put in the ground when the snow melts, and come back and harvest on first snowfall, without having to do much else....

 

[Tactical Farmer]

while there is a major benefit to companion planting & the balance of nature, dont get offended but having some Deep Chunks in you backyard garden is much different than having nine ten footers out in 3 different swamps FAR away from home, where maybe its barely possible to get out there once a week or longer.

I wouldn't be considering it but things are beyond relying on mother nature out there.

Sativas wont even come close to finishing, its a huge victory to make it 60 days in flower.

Even Hollands Hope didn't like it here

Ill try to get some pics as they are doing awesome.

 

[Space Case]

I feel ya...I don't have that much large scale outdoor experience, but one of my good friends does, doing guerilla in the swamp, to be exact. Lets see if I can get him to comment in here.

What part of the world are you in? Southeast USA? You don't have to be specific, but roughly, what kind of swamp are we talking about? There has to be a strain better suited to where you are...

 

[grapeman]

Personally I think copper based fungicides are hard on green tissue. But if that is all you have to work with then go for it.

Have you tried Botran or Decree mixed with Pristine?

 

[Tactical Farmer]

East Side on the 41 line. Its just been bad for everyone all over the last several years.

Looks like there is a new major problem this year with some sort of leaf spot disease, found this thread tonight.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=184996

Sounds like the guys along with D.S. Toker MD have been having very good luck with the copper product on this thread.

D.S. said his test plants looked much greener & healthier than the non copper sprayed ones when studying the plants reaction to the product.

Im going to use the liquid copper (LC) rotated with green cure (GC) for the next 3 weeks then switch to Serenade BT tea sprays rotated with Lacto B the last month.

* Grape, looked up those products & they are way to Monsantoish for me but thanks.

 

[grapeman]

got a bottle of this stuff for slug & fungus (blight) control in the tomato garden & i thinking on giving it a try on some outdoor stuff for Botrytis aka: budrot ?

been cycling neem, greencure, monterey garden (spinosad), organocide, serinade BT, & silica which helps but there not 100% effective in preventing some loss to budrot & some pm around here. so im hoping this may be helpful with preventing late season outdoor mold ?

there isn't any info on copper sprays here so hopefully the experts can tune in.

ITEM = http://www.bonide.com/products/product.php?category_id=811

INFO = http://www.bonide.com/lbonide/backlabels/l811.pdf

MSDS = http://www.bonide.com/lbonide/msds/msds811.pdf

Any other good tips for this problem ?

Much luck with compost tea sprays, microbes, etc ?

The cool thing about copper is that it is fairly effective. I use it, but only in the winter as a dormant spray. I don't like to use it on green tissue. Especially tender shoots. In the same website they have a product called
Mancozeb


I would think this would be more effective then copper. Safe on tomatoes for up to 7 applications a season and can be used within 5 days of harvest, so it is fairly safe.

Just a thought.

 

[MIway]

Im going to use the liquid copper (LC) rotated with green cure (GC) for the next 3 weeks then switch to Serenade BT tea sprays rotated with Lacto B the last month.

* Grape, looked up those products & they are way to Monsantoish for me but thanks.

All of those sprays will leave a residue of something or another, biological or chemical... they are all contaminants of sorts.

I dunno, but multiple layers of that is just as bad as a single shot of the monsantoish... in my mind.

Never tried it, but a few recommend Oxidate on a regular preventative rotation...?

 

[Tactical Farmer]

I nearly pulled the trigger on the:

Oxidate = http://www.arbico-organics.com/product/oxidate-2-5g/

Cease = http://www.arbico-organics.com/product/Cease-biological-fungicide/plant-fungal-disease

Milstop = http://www.arbico-organics.com/product/milstop-foliar-fungicide/plant-fungal-disease

Quickly realized that these are basically just baking soda, hydrogen peroxide & the same bacterium as seranade.

So my new plan is to test some homemade baking soda w/ peroxide sprays to sterilize, followed up next day with some seranade bacterium tea foliar.