[hamstring]

Ok, below is a description of leaf spot and I have had it the last 2 years. For the life of me I cant figure out why more Guerrillas have not had it. It would not be a disease that back yard growers deal with primarily guerillas. I am now a self ordained expert but there is ZERO info (little bit of an exaggeration) on this web site.

I am looking for true anecdotal experience because this disease makes mold look like a little girl of a MJ problem. It can NOT be cured and depending on how bad it hits it will defoliate your whole crop. It also over-winters so you can have it for years at one location.

Looking for old or new guerillas that have dealt with this disease I just want to hear how you managed it because that’s all you can do “manage it” not cure it? My understanding is the only way to deal with it is through preventive measures.

It is impossible for a guerrilla to remove all ground litter. Sure you can do it around your plants but not over 5 acres or more of land and the spores are passed through the air so cleaning up around your plants will only help so much. I don’t want to loose some of my favorite spots so I am looking for real life anecdotes of how other guerillas handled this if there is any.

Come on fellow guerrillas help a brother out its weird that this disease cannot be found via the sites search engine I really feel like others have had this.

HOW DID YOU FIX THE PROBLEM????

1. Move to different site? (It's in 4 plots at 4 different locations for 2 years over more than a 10 square mile radius so moving wont help me anyways.)

2. Got lucky had a dry year? ( I understand but what about next year or the next?)





BACTERIAL LEAF SPOT

Symptoms: Infected plants have brown or black water-soaked spots on the foliage, sometimes with a yellow halo, usually uniform in size. The spots enlarge and will run together under wet conditions. Under dry conditions the spots have a speckled appearance. As spots become more numerous, entire leaves may yellow, wither and drop. Members of the Prunus family (cherry, plum, almond, apricot, peach) are particularly susceptible. The fruit may appear spotted or have sunken brown areas. Bacterial leaf spot will also attack tomatoes, peppers and cabbage family crops in vegetable gardens.

Bacterial leaf spot is most active when there is plenty of moisture and warm temperatures. During the summer months, especially if plants are watered by overhead sprinklers, sufficient moisture may be present for infection when the bacteria are splashed or blown on to leaves. Wind and rain transmit the bacteria to plants.

This disease overwinters in the soil around infected plants as well as on garden debris and seeds. The disease will also remain in the twig cankers, leaves, stems and fruit of infected trees.

Control: Choose resistant varieties if possible. Keep the soil under the tree clean and rake up fallen fruit. Prune or stake plants to improve air circulation. Make sure to disinfect your pruning equipment (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after each cut. Use a thick layer of mulch to cover the soil after you have raked and cleaned it well. The mulch will prevent the fungus spores from splashing back up onto the leaves. Water in the early morning hours (avoiding overhead watering if possible) to give the plants time to dry out during the day. Avoid overwatering.

There is no cure for plants infected with bacterial leaf spot. Apply copper-based fungicides weekly at first sign of disease to prevent its spread. This organic fungicide will not kill leaf spot, but prevents the fungus spores from germinating. Applications of Fire Blight Spray will also control the disease. Use as a preventive treatment or apply at first sign of water soaked leaves.


Starts out looking quite tame and nothing to worry about.


A week or so later

Then its a train wreck in 3-4 weeks
.

[Cannasseur]

Well look at that, I must've simultaneously made my post in my thread.



After looking a bit more into the subject, I too suspect that I'm dealing with the culprit known as Bacterial leaf spot.

From what I can see, the surrounding flora seems to have a huge effect on their infection. Those of our plants surrounded directly by willows seem the least affected, whereas those located adjacent to Prunus (Cherry) and Crataegus (Hawthorn) are completely devoured by the effects of the infection.

[wiklund]

Hi!

I have the the exact the same problem with my outdoor plant. Have searched for a cure for about two years now but havent found it yet. Please help us!

[ghost of sage]

I had that shit last year and got on it late after the plants were already flowering and it would kill the bud turn it brown and it would crumble and fall to dust.i started spraying with green cure and it stopped it but i was to late fro those plants.I took some stronger fungicide and sprayed all the ground around the plants heavily and this year i have it in the same place but it is very mild and i started with the greencure right away and it has stopped it for me.That shit ruined my plants last year!I watched it and didn't realize it was a fungus and it totally destroyed 3 plants that should have yeilded 3 pounds and instead i salvaged 1/2 lb.This is 2 pics from last year!

[D.S. Toker. MD]

Yes,yes, hamstring and ghost of sage, i got it in one site and its the same site it started in last year. I just got back from the site and its there.

It will destroy the crop and ive got to find something to kill it. Ive got 45 days till harvest so im looking hard at short acting systemic fungicides such as eagle 20, actigaurd and others. I hate using them and it scares me but its my view that this stuff is a hard kill and the whole friggin crop will die left untreated. I cant scrape up nothing or keep anything clean out in the middle of knowwhere so none of these preventatvie measures mean diddly to me. Every site i have is surrounded by wild cherries and hawthorns.

Guys, i figure we have 10 days to resolve this or hunt for somebody to buy weed from this winter. Im talking to my county extension agent( my tomatoes) and scanning the world wide web for answers: ill keep you posted

[Cannasseur]

From the "Resource Guide for Organic Pest and Disease Management."

Diseases caused by bacteria

Bacterial canker (Clavibacter michiganensis subsp. michiganensis), bacterial speck (Pseudomonas syringae pv. tomato) and bacterial spot (Xanthomonas campestris pv. vesicatoria) are all quite common and are all managed the same way.
Canker is most common on tomato but can occur on pepper as well. The first symptoms may include wilting, browning at the margin of the leaflet, and leaflet curling. Later symptoms include brown stem cankers that frequently crack open, and spots on the fruit. The fruit lesions have a dark brown center surrounded by a white ring, with a characteristic “birds-eye” appearance View photo 4.10.

Speck is found only on tomato. Small black lesions (1/8 inch) with a yellow halo appear on leaves, and black raised lesions or dots appear on fruit View photo 4.11.

Spot occurs on both tomato and pepper. Symptoms can appear on leaves, stems, and fruit View photo 4.12. Lesions begin as water-soaked spots that become brown and may have an irregular shape View photo 4.13. Infected leaves eventually turn yellow and drop off the plant.

Cultural Control:

1. Plant disease-free seed. Hot water seed treatment at 122°F for 25 minutes is recommended for tomato seed. For pepper seed, hot water treatment at 125°F for 30 minutes is recommended. Strictly follow time and temperature recommendations to minimize damage to seed germination and vigor. Hot water treatment can also eliminate fungal pathogens on the seed. Chlorine treatment of seed is also effective and may be permitted, check with the certification agent. Use one part household bleach to 4 parts water plus a half teaspoon of surfactant per gallon of solution, agitate seed for one minute, then rinse in running water for 5 minutes. Dry seed thoroughly.
2. Pepper varieties that are resistant to bacterial spot are available (see Cornell 2004) .
3. If growing and using transplants, all greenhouse materials should be cleaned and sterilized prior to use. The spread of bacterial diseases in the greenhouse is common.
4. If trellising or caging tomatoes, stakes and cages should either be new or cleaned and disinfected. Sodium hypochlorite at 0.5% (12x dilution of household bleach) is effective, and must be followed by rinsing, and proper disposal of solution. Hydrogen peroxide is also permitted.
5. If pruning tomatoes, disinfect tools or gloves regularly to minimize spread of bacteria from infected plants.
6. Use a 3-year crop rotation away from tomato and pepper.
7. Because bacterial diseases can spread by splashing water, avoid overhead irrigation.
8. Avoid working in the crop when it is wet.
9. Compost may contain organisms that are antagonistic to the pathogen.

Materials Approved for Organic Production:
Copper compounds. Recent studies showed 2 fair and 1 poor result.

Let us all be diligent in our search for answers!

[ghost of sage]

I cannot remember the name of the fungicide I treated the ground with but it was a bad ass one that was not for edibles.i just kept it off the plants and used the greencure heavy and it froze it.This year i didn't see any sign of it until a week ago and it was mild and i sprayed right away with a double dose of the greencure and it has stopped where it was.The woods were also burned off this winter so that could have done it too instead of the fungicide i used.

[ghost of sage]

Originally Posted by D.S. Toker. MD

Yes,yes, hamstring and ghost of sage, i got it in one site and its the same site it started in last year. I just got back from the site and its there.

It will destroy the crop and ive got to find something to kill it. Ive got 45 days till harvest so im looking hard at short acting systemic fungicides such as eagle 20, actigaurd and others. I hate using them and it scares me but its my view that this stuff is a hard kill and the whole friggin crop will die left untreated. I cant scrape up nothing or keep anything clean out in the middle of knowwhere so none of these preventatvie measures mean diddly to me. Every site i have is surrounded by wild cherries and hawthorns.

Guys, i figure we have 10 days to resolve this or hunt for somebody to buy weed from this winter. Im talking to my county extension agent( my tomatoes) and scanning the world wide web for answers: ill keep you posted

Plus where I am located I need all the damn ground clutter that I can get for camo to cover where I have been digging so I have to let all of it stay!

[ghost of sage]

this is this year same spot before I used the greencure.You can see it is very scattered this year on the plant i really started to just let it go but that is what I did last year.I sprayed the day after this picture and it looks good now but it started alot worse last year right off the bat!

[D.S. Toker. MD]

Hey ghost, hamstring, cannasuer or wickland, any of u guys try the serenade garden spray?

Im headed to lowes as we speak so ill be trying it. It says its organic and fruits can be taken the next day. Ill be treated by supper time.

Im worried about treatments and the heat. Every damn day its nearly 100.