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WhiteShadow

New member
Baba,

Do you only spray with Neem and azamax? Some other effective methods for "control" can be to water with Neem (the plants suck it up) or to drop the temperature below 70 at night so they reproduce at a fraction of their normal rate...
 

Bababooey

Horse-toothed Jackass
Veteran
Never tried watering with neem, but that's a good idea, should also help against the gnats. So the plants absorb the neem and the mites get a dose of it when they suck the plant's juices?
Dropping the temp below 70 is not an option for me until the winter, but again, good idea, and should bring out some pretty purple colors. Just have to be careful and not make it so cold for so long the plants get frost-bitten....
 

WhiteShadow

New member
I don't know if the mites get a dose of it so to speak, but it certainly makes your plants less attractive to them - like biting into something rotten as an example. If you go this route, I would still do what you are doing, just throw this in with the mix. With these guys, its all about hitting them as often as you can, from as many different angles as you can, without hurting the plants themselves....good luck!
 

lemonskunk420

Active member
ICMag Donor
Ive watered with neem 3/4 times for gnates and got rid of them but the plants showed signs from the neem.Id try spraying first off and if that doesnt work add the watering.But all my plants that were watered with neem looked overall crappy and were stunned.But neem has worked everytime after treating once every 3 to 5 days until gone.
 

smoke1sun

What Goes Around Comes Around. But Am I Comming Or
Veteran
Ive used neem once, and unless I had a bad bottle. I could not stand the smell of it. It was just awful.

Hey Baba have you tried lavender, or Rosemary for you mites?

Here's the thread on lavender.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=192286

And some swear buy rosemary essential oil. which is also in the same thread.
 

Bababooey

Horse-toothed Jackass
Veteran
Smoke, thanks for the link, I'm going to have to try lavender as a miticide. I see that a lot of icmaggers have had success with it. If it's really effective, I wonder why no one has bottled it and sold it as an organic pesticide?
Neem has a strong nutty odor, to me. Not a very good smell imo, but not that objectionable either.

Lemon, perhaps you were using too strong of a neem solution? Ive heard of people watering their plants with neem or neem+surfactant, but havent heard complaints that it stunted the plants...

Never were truer words spoken, Whiteshadow.
 

bobblehead

Active member
Veteran
I recommend you guys with mites get some forbid. Look it up on ebay, there is a reseller that sells smaller amounts for $20-30. You only need 1mL to make 1 gallon of spray, and a gallon of spray goes a long ways... So pH it to 6.0 to help it last longer in solution.

Treat your plants with forbid in veg. It will kill all the mites... and then treat them right when you put them in flower as well, until you're sure all the mites are gone. You can't use forbid during late flower, but if you use it in early flower like I've suggested, it has a residual effect and the mites will die if they come around...

For me it took 1 application to get rid of spider mites... but I did 2 to cover my ass.

Also, if you're running coco, and you haven't treated your coco for root aphids... you might want to look into it. I used Ortho MAX to kill them, and I'm running SM-90 @ 5mL a gallon w/ every feed as a preventative measure.
 

lemonskunk420

Active member
ICMag Donor
Yea booey it could of been that i was using concentrate and over did it a bit because it didnt kill them off right away.Now i know it takes abit before it kills them off with the neem and its not an instant kill.Just make sure you dont over due it,give it time to work.
Thanks for the tip bobblehead ive heard of using them but havent got around to trying them.This round ive tried some non concentrate neem as a spray and drench from lowes and so far the plants look fine and the smell is much better.
 

Maximo

Member
Man my powers been out for 3 days, again. I live in a fairly large city and in the last 3 years my powers been out for a total of 14 days, B.S. if you ask me lol.

I use Rotenone-Pyrethrins by Bondide at 3/4 strength, its all natural, good stuff.
 

Bababooey

Horse-toothed Jackass
Veteran
Bobble, I've never heard of Forbid, but here's what I found with a quick search:

A NEW DEFENSE AGAINST SPIDER MITES
Bayer Environmental Science has just announced the registration of a new miticide, based on a proprietary new chemistry with a unique mode of activity. The name of this new miticide is Forbid 4F, and its active ingredient is spiromesifin, a tetronic acid, which blocks fat synthesis so the mites dry out and die. This mode of activity, inhibiting lipid biosynthesis thus causing dessication (i.e., drying-out), is virtually the same as that of soaps and oils. That is, the MOA for Forbid 4F can be considered, for the sake of simplicity, to be MOA 6 as defined in papers elsewhere on this website, and in articles appearing in the Rose Society’s newsletter, Basal Breaks. This is great because MOA 6 has little or no potential for the development of resistance – an analogy[1] would be a flamethrower: you may miss some of your targets, but when they return they’ll be no less vulnerable to the flame.

Another feature of Forbid 4F is that, like Avid, it is translaminar. The active ingredient, spiromesifin, while not systemic (i.e., it does not move through the plant’s vascular system like, for example, Merit does), is absorbed by the plant’s leaves and will move from the tops of the leaves to the bottoms where the mites feed. This ability to move from the tops to bottoms of leaves significantly reduces the tedium of the spray process – while care should still be taken to cover the entire bush, rigorous spraying of the undersides of leaves should not be required. Moreover, according to Bayer, Forbid 4F controls mites at all life stages and offers an excellent residual of four to eight weeks for mites.

The label for Forbid 4F indicates its toxicity rating is CAUTION (be aware that the Avid label carries a WARNING designation). The label further specifies a usage rate of 2 to 4 fluid ounces per 100 gallons of spray. This equates to 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of spray – Bayer recommends, however, using the lower rate. Also, Forbid 4F may be tank mixed with sprayable fertilizers, insecticides and fungicides, although Bayer recommends a jar compatibility test.

So this stuff is just as good as Avid but less toxic?

Max, a lot of suburbs around Chicago lost power starting Monday. If you were lucky your power would only have been out for 3 days. They had to bring in crews from other states to make repairs quicker. Crazy stuff.
 

bobblehead

Active member
Veteran
Forbid stomps all over avid... but it's good to use a mix of miticides... even though they say mites can't build a tolerance to Forbid... You're talking about a bug that reproduces at a rapid rate. It's not inconceivable for some sort of super-mite to evolve...
 

Maximo

Member
Hey Guys,

I finally got my bubble made thursday after no power for a few days, the cuts are recuperated and rooting, the 30 BD's in veggie growth go into the flower rm on the 20th, and I'm off to go skydiving for the day, booya!!!!.

Bucket-O-Buds
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To many empty pots
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I have a light rail 3.5 +accessories for the veggie Rm, and 4 new hoods for the flower Rm coming this week, I'm looking forward to those upgrades.

Peace Out

Max
 
lookin good max, what type of bag set do u use to make hash with?

if u don't have one, i would recommend getting an 8 bag bubble bag kit...


stay up
 

Maximo

Member
Thanks mon, I'm an original first production run bubble man B-Bags owner, got mine in very early 2001 or 2002, my bags now have about 100 runs through them and there still looking pretty good, I rarely used 8 bags, I hate the 25µ and threw it away years ago, the 120µ and 90µ are not necessary I think?, I use the 220-190-160 for filtering out the crap and use the 73µ and 45µ for harvesting, just 2 grades for me these days and I'm quite happy with that as most if not all folks I know don't have any at all so I'm already up on them with my 2 grades of awesome hashish.

Peace
 

Bababooey

Horse-toothed Jackass
Veteran
:jawdrop:

Awesome space. You didnt line the carpet with some sort of plastic? They look like soil but there's some sort of recirculating line attached to the buckets?
Hash looks perfect as well. Youve definitely gotten your money's worth out of the bubble bags. Have you ever thought about getting Bubbleman's mini-washer? With gallons of popcorn nugs, you could probably pull 5 bubble runs from the same material using a washing machine of some sort...
 
I rarely used 8 bags

well, even if u don't plan on smoking all the sifts... it REALLY IS BEST to use all 8 bags...


with my 5 gal set, i mix the material/ice water mixture in a 5 gal bucket... THEN i pour it into another bucket with the 220 bag (this helps keep leaf material from being forced thru and keeps the sift cleaner from the start)

then ur gonna want to filter thru the 190, then the 160, then the 120...

now, what u catch in the 160 is suitable for cooking... the 190 is pretty much a trash bag to help keep everything a bit cleaner down the line.

120 and lower, is considered smokeable. i've seen some pretty melty 120... not fullmelt, but semi melt at least...

ur 90 and 73 are gonna be the tasty sifts more often than not...

alot of time i find that the 45 is often the biggest yielding sift, and that hash smokes pretty good also :)

25.... keep ur bags CLEAN... and the 25 isn't so bad... that being said... u will prob end up cooking with this sift or gifting it to friends hehe



moral of story... if u don't use all 8 bags, ur not getting the most out of ur hash... and if u REALLY wanna get the most out of ur hashmaking, save all ur material that u just extracted resin from and make CANNA MILK with it...

i had a sticky in the cooking forum on it, but u know how ic mag is lol

maybe the thread will rise again...
 
I hate the 25µ and threw it away years ago, the 120µ and 90µ are not necessary I think?, I use the 220-190-160 for filtering out the crap and use the 73µ and 45µ for harvesting, just 2 grades for me these days and I'm quite happy with that as most if not all folks I know don't have any at all so I'm already up on them with my 2 grades of awesome hashish.


sucks u threw away ur 25 bag... but if u have the 120 and 90 still, i'd HIGHLY suggest incorporating them into ur bubblemaking for future runs...

firstly, u won't be adding yield by incorporating these 2 bags... but what u will be doing is separating the sizes much more efficiently, giving u a much more refined sift.

90 is usually the best sift there is on alot of strains... i'd recommend u experience that hehe

ur hash looks good bro, but GREAT hash is where it's at.

stay up.
 
I

IE2KS_KUSH

Ah I fucking love hash and concentrates it blows my mind that aside from this forum no one here where I live even knows wtf bubble, honey oil is, nothing! I haven't met anyone that knows what hash is or has actually had it. People know what it is to the extent its made from weed...but no conception of anything remotely beyond that. Boggles the mind. Even had a buddy that didn't know what the powder in the bottom of the grinder was, asked me and if he should do something with it! I say ya that's highly toxic give it to me I will dispose of it safely in a controlled burn lol...no I am not a dick I told him the truth but he doesn't believe me ain't that some shit!
 

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