agreed with TB, two, half strength feedings during the week with waterings in between usually yields fantastic results
NEED HELP ASAP FLOWERING NIGHTMARE
- Thread starter dnotrem
- Start date
Thanks guys sounds like a plan. If you wanna follow the progress follow the link in my signature. I don't wanna waste the space in the infirmary as long as my problem has been addressed. If my new nute regimen doesn't work well than I'll have to either post in the infirmary again, or hopefully a couple of you guys follow the grow and help me out along the way if you could. Either way thanks guys for all the help.
See ya around,
J Budman
See ya around,
J Budman
PH of the runoff is gonna be a big one,
unless your method of measuring PH is completely fucked and inaccurate your runoff should come out Acid (compared to 6.5) maybe even mid 5's or lower.
In which case we can come up with a game plan and sort it quickly
unless your method of measuring PH is completely fucked and inaccurate your runoff should come out Acid (compared to 6.5) maybe even mid 5's or lower.
In which case we can come up with a game plan and sort it quickly
PH of my runoff (of clean just PH'ed to 6.5 water) is 5.3. Is that a good or bad thing? This is where soil confuses me. If it were hydro I'd just swap it out and balance the water myself. Either way thier first feeding with just straight water(PH'ed to 6.5) happened tonight. I'm going to let them both dry out real good and give them another straight water feeding. Then 1/2 strength, then straight water, then 3/4, then straight water, then full strength again. Does that sound good to everyone? Or does this low PH runoff change things up?
Dead on Rube! Does that mean I'm doing okay and it's just some nute burn?(I really hope so) That's what I'm thinking, but this is my first real grow and I'm like a sponge for knowledge from all you veterans at this point. Thanks for the help guys.
Check in in the AM,
J
PH of the run off can be misleading if your soil is buffered. I dont ever PH the run off as it wont tell me anything. My soil is PH buffered to 7 so does not matter it will always read 7 +-. I would feed PHJ water at 6.5 for a week and then re evaluate.
Did you mean to just write PH? Or is PHJ an anagram I don't understand? I'm just doing what everyone tells me, this is my first real soil grow. Thanks so much for the help.
J
Hey again forget the Ph meter, first off all try and lift the pot and feel if it is heavy..
If it is heavy u properly gave to much water...
If u are growing in an pro mix like soil u dont need to fert if not u give with every watering to maximize yeild..
Also another important thing is the pots-containers size vs plant size, in ur case i would repot the plant into a bigger pot.....
If it is heavy u properly gave to much water...
If u are growing in an pro mix like soil u dont need to fert if not u give with every watering to maximize yeild..
Also another important thing is the pots-containers size vs plant size, in ur case i would repot the plant into a bigger pot.....
prince kali
Member
as you grow in soil i totally agree on the last post by DKgrower here.
ph is highly overrated in soil grows.. most soils are buffering ph for several weeks.
your plants are overwatered. thats all.
water with half amount of nutes, but only when the soil has dried a bit, could be only in 4 or 5 days if they are heavy now
(put your little finger in the drain hole.. if this still feels wet in there its still a bit too early to water again, if the surface of the pot has dried up more than 2 cm you should water..)
trust your feelings, a lightweight pot needs water..
growing should be fun
cheers
ph is highly overrated in soil grows.. most soils are buffering ph for several weeks.
your plants are overwatered. thats all.
water with half amount of nutes, but only when the soil has dried a bit, could be only in 4 or 5 days if they are heavy now
(put your little finger in the drain hole.. if this still feels wet in there its still a bit too early to water again, if the surface of the pot has dried up more than 2 cm you should water..)
trust your feelings, a lightweight pot needs water..
growing should be fun
cheers
lol typo my friend PH
I agree it does look like toxicities, but it also looks like over-watering. However, if it's toxicities then the OP shouldn't wait until the "pot is fully dry" because that increases the osmotic pressure (and concentration) of salts outside the roots, thus causing greater toxicity. It's best to water before the media is 'fully dry', if one suspects the media may have been over fertilized.
Sorry to disagree with many here, but water pH doesn't really matter in terms of pH of media (i.e., soilless solution). The only reason pH would matter in water (ex. rez or bucket for soilless grown plants) is re pH range of elements in solution. What matters much more than pH of fertilizer, as long as pH isn't too low or too high (ex., > 5 and < 8), if micro's are chelated, is alkalinity of water. The water alkalinity affects media pH much more than water pH during fertigation.
If the problem is severe toxicity, as seems to be the OP's case, than flushing is the best option. Over watering is more of an issue if it's repetitive, i.e., if one waters too often or too much at once too often. Flushing media is fine as long as the media drains well and as long as it's not done often in terms of over watering; but it's better if the media has high air porosity, ex., > 20-25%.
^^^ yea that.
Flush and reevaluate like I mentioned
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IMO:
1. Flush now with RO water (or at least non-tap water), I like to run ~50% worth of media as water per pot. Ex,. if the pot holds 4 gallons, I like to flush with 2 gallons water.
2. Spray plants well with RO water (or distilled from grocery store) after you water them, just before the lights are timed to turn off.
3. Wait until they are sufficiently less moist (not dry), and use only water again.
4. Fertilize. Only use FN Bloom, the Grow is not needed at all, ever. I would use ~4-6 ml/gal FN Bloom.
5. From this point on use ~8 ml/gal FNB. IIRC, Lucas did the math and ~8 ml/gal FNB is pretty close to the PH/Lucas formula. I used 8 ml/gal FNB fora few grows as a test vs PH/Lucas formula and IMO it preformed better (due to humic acid, etc., within FN Bloom).
That is from memory, so you may want to use CannaStats calculator at AngleFire (by PH) and enter 8 ml FNB to see the ppm per element; then compare that to the PH/Lucas formula.
Lucas did suggest people use FNB at ~1,100-1,200 ppm, but I don't recall if he offered the conversion from EC to TDS (ppm), his TDS pen uses. That means the suggestion of 1,100-1,200 ppm isn't very helpful; stick with ~8 ml/gal.
Are you sure? Are you positive it's not soilless media? What brand are you using?
There is most of your problem: waiting too long to water and using fertilizer with every watering.
You should water before the media is dry, because when we think it's dry is far too dry for roots (re osmotic pressure and salt concentration (gradients) as media gets more dry). I could get specific if you're interested.
You should water with fertilizer (aka fertigate), then use only water (or add some cool processed kelp extract and fulvic acid), then fertigate, then use only water, then fertigate ... and so on.
Are you using tap water? If so have you had a water test? (you can get them for free from your local water municipality)
It's not ideal, sorry but Rube is off on this one. You want the soilless solution pH to be ~5.8-6.2 (and outside that 5.5-6.5).
Don't bother pH adjusting water for flushing, or otherwise, unless it's < 5 of > 8. Water alkalinity is more important to know and control, than water pH.
Im done here spurr can answer all the questions
Oh yea, how you test media pH and EC is important. It's not as simple as pouring a bunch of water over dry media. You need to use distilled water (or DI water) and pre-moisten media (close to saturation) at least a few hours before adding more distilled water to collect ~50 ml of runoff. Try not to add so much distilled water (the second time when collecting runoff) that you collect much more than 50 ml water because otherwise (ex,. > 100 ml) the results will be skewed and not as accurate as they can be (more so EC than pH).
What I just described is the "PourThru" method by North Carolina State U.; you can google for the web site to get great how-to PDFs with pics, info, etc.
What I just described is the "PourThru" method by North Carolina State U.; you can google for the web site to get great how-to PDFs with pics, info, etc.
