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The soilfoodweb or the microbial nutrient loop indoors

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
There was a thread started recently which has been disappeared for some reason or another which addressed , at least partially, the application of the soilfoodweb to indoor container growing using bottled ‘organic’nutrients.

To have this discussion I think we first need to clearly define what is ‘the soil food web’ and what is ‘the microbial nutrient cycle’. Are they the same thing?

In my opinion the term soil food web can be all encompassing to include trees dying, falling on the ground to be devoured by fungi and leaves and annual plants seeking a similar demise, birds flying over dropping a poo, arthropods and worms macro and micro contributing to degradation and defecation. A passing moose urinates. It can be very extensive and to attempt to incorporate such into one’s indoor garden would be a challenge at the least. There are some growers who make efforts to utilize the soil food web indoors, even allowing fallen leaves to degrade and growing cover plants (mini-clover) for natural N input [go Mad] but alas the supply of mini-moose is not at hand. Still one can succeed at implementing the soil food web indoors in containers to a large degree with topdressing organic matter, compost, etc.

The microbial nutrient loop is contained within the soilfoodweb but is more focused and narrow. We don’t need any mini-moose (just the collected poo) or deadfall trees. The microbial nutrient cycle describes the means by which organic nutrients are cycled to roots in the rhyzosphere in available [ionic] form. There are several ways that this occurs and briefly;
1/ (a) bacteria & archaea are consumed by protozoa which exude approximately 65% of the energy intaken as available nutrient [ionic form; usually N with micronutrients] {this is the mainstay of the microbial nutrient loop}
1/ (b) as described above but predation is by bacterial feeding nematodes
2/ various types of fungi degrade organic matter and deliver nutrients to root systems via encapsulation or penetration and receive certain forms of carbon in exchange. This association is commonly called mycorrihiza. [I’ve recently learned of another group of fungi {dark septate endophytes} which may also be mycorrhizal; my ongoing research project]
3/ (a) there are several bacterial and archaeal species which are free living nutrient fixers [everyone’s heard of N-fixers which are all the rage in the bottled microbial products]
3/ (b) there are N-fixing bacteria which are symbiotic with certain plant root systems [e.g. legumes; Mad’s mini-clover cover crop] which deliver N.
4/ as has been discussed previously by Spurr, roots can exude acids [e.g. citric acid] to mineralize {ionize} nutrients in the rhyzosphere.
5/ and there is more and likely more we have yet to learn.
In summary we can see that nature always has a plan B. There is greater detail on these systems throughout the forum and on my webpage.

So, in the recently disappeared thread, to the best of my knowledge there was an hypothesis partially presented that the soil food web was incorporated when using bottled commercial nutrients. If we accept the definition above I think we can only say a tenuous ‘maybe’. What Mad and others are endeavoring is closer to the mark.

However, I do believe that organic bottled nutrients [if they truly are organic] can be incorporated into a growing system which derives nutrients through the microbial nutrient loop. I don’t pretend to know anything about such commercial nutrients but I believe I recall a study posted by Spurr (AKA?) on greenhouse grown organic tomatoes which used Earth Juice which is one of those commercial organic products. If these substances are topdressed perhaps in combination with vermi(compost), ACT etc and the growing media is allowed to live undisturbed for the most part, I see no reason for this method of nutrient application to not be processed by the microbial nutrient cycle and be called organic [and to succeed].

As for the growing media, I do not know much about coconut products but a soilless media consisting of sphagnum peat moss and ‘aged’ bark fines supports a soil microbial population just fine [as illustrated by facts concerning porosity, etc. previously posted by Spurr and from my own microscopy]. Actually sphagnum peat moss brings with it a dormant microbial population ready to go to work cycling nutrients. One aspect for consideration is that, in my opinion, the growing media really does come to life and should optimally be left intact between crops and maintained in the largest, deepest containers possible. [there may be a critical mass; I would not want less than 5 gallons] I had containers of peat that after 2 years could not be discerned from soil.

I’ve gotta run now….more later?
 
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mad librettist

Active member
Veteran
heya MM,

thanks for that!

so I guess the next obvious question is about the "use it or lose it" theory. Basically - if you bypass the nutrient cycle, do you wind up weakening the soil's potential for cycling nutrients?

To me, a good acid test for having a functioning food chain (maybe not even a web yet) is "can the soil eat?". If it can't process, for instance, falling leaves in a timely fashion, I don't think it is really functioning on its own.
 
V

vonforne

Great Post MM!!

I’ve gotta run now….more later?

by all means post up some more for us. We always look forward to your insight on a wide variety of subjects.

You are a great teacher. We are here to learn.

V
 

GoneRooty

Member
Great info! Can't wait to read some more. Also, any chance of you starting a thread about the dark septate endophytes?
 
V

vonforne

MM, what would be the optimal size for grow beds inside? Depth, width, and length? Or just volume of soil?

V
 
T

TurboFish

I only grow in sphagnum peat moss peat moss. I buy it in 4.5 cubic foot compressed bags. Its clean, super fluffy and lightweight. Drys super good. After a week or 2 Its Crawling with springtails, doing some microbial grazing, nutriant breakdown and decomposition. including eating toxic fungi. You cannot burn or fuck up a seedling in it and is alot more stable than coco in my opinion(and you never have to wash salts from it) and I have never gotten a fungus gnat in it or anything but springtails(which are good). roots are always super healthy white and Mycorrhizal fungi take very well to the soil. I also swear by Blue Mountain organics (obtainable on ebay) for growing flowering and foliar feeding. it has a-z main, micro and macro nutrients, endo and ecto bacteria, Mycorrhizal fungi all in one bottle. Their is noo need for cal mag or any other bullshit. You must water with chlorine free water tho since BMO stuff is a live fertalizer, and also must keep cap slightly loose since the microrganisims need to "breath". turns your soil into living pretty fast between the 2. $35 shipped will get you 4 bottles of fetalizer and foliar feed from veg to flower(super root tonic, grow green, flower and foliar feed) 100% organic.
 
C

CC_2U

MM

I had a question about sphagnum peat moss in general. According to the Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss Association, Premier Horticulture (Pro-Mix) and Alaska Peat Moss pull out of one providence only, i.e. Premier harvests in Ontario and Alaska Peat Moss harvests from Alberta. Both of these companies have limited product lines of sphagnum peat moss.

Sun Gro Horticulture harvests from New Brunswick, Manitoba and Alberta provinces. Their product lines include the following:

1. Sunshine Peat Moss Grower Grade Blue - "Grower Grade Blue (Special Coarse), is our most fibrous professional peat moss. Visually, you will immediately notice that it is a very chunky peat, with a very high air capacity. It is suitable for orchids, azalea & camellia production, ground beds, bulbs, or when a highly porous mix is required for large containers."

2. Sunshine Peat Moss Grower Grade Green - "Grower Grade Green is a short fiber professional peat moss, ideal when an intensely screened growing media is required. It is most often used in the golf course construction trade, mushroom production, seed germination and plug production."

3. Sunshine Peat Moss Grower Grade Orange - "Grower Grade Orange is less fibrous than our Grower Grade White It is used throughout the greenhouse trade for vegetable and forestry seedling production, plant production, mushroom production and in mixing your own media."

4. Sunshine Peat Moss Grower Grade White - "Grower Grade White has a fibrous consistency that improves aeration and increases drainage to promote plant root development. It is used throughout the greenhouse trade for vegetable and flowering plant production, mushroom production (and in mixing your own growing media.) It is widely used from flat production to larger pot and hanging basket production."

Do you think there's an advantage (or disadvantage) from using single-sourced peat moss vs. multi-sourced peat?

The other question that I have is about the differences noted in the Sun Gro product line as far as the 'length' or 'chop' of the sphagnum peat? IOW, would a long cut fiber be preferable, perhaps, to the finer products like Premier Peat and Alaska Peat?

Cost differences are almost nothing between any of these products from the nursery supply warehouses in the valley.

Thanks for any input.

CC
 

mad librettist

Active member
Veteran
roots are always super healthy white and Mycorrhizal fungi take very well to the soil.

how are you confirming mycorrhizae exactly? This is almost impossible for the home grower.

most people who think they are looking at mycorrhizae are actually seeing root hairs or mycelia from other fungi.
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
so I guess the next obvious question is about the "use it or lose it" theory. Basically - if you bypass the nutrient cycle, do you wind up weakening the soil's potential for cycling nutrients?

To me, a good acid test for having a functioning food chain (maybe not even a web yet) is "can the soil eat?". If it can't process, for instance, falling leaves in a timely fashion, I don't think it is really functioning on its own
.

I believe there is a use it or lose it effect if chemical fertilizers are used longterm. There are many who will argue this and say there is no difference between ions derived chemically or microbially. I have seen the effects in a farm where after years chemicals are not applied and grasses and legumes perish while adjacent naturally grown fields flourish in the same season. The other consideration is the timing involved in plant nutrient uptake. Can we really time chemical applications to match the complex association flowing and ebbing daily between the plant and microbial population. Microbes are constantly going dormant, awakening, dying and multiplying. In 30 minutes I have watched a protozoa form an almost complete cyst, change its 'mind' and begin to divide. Many people would be surprised at how quickly things change in the micribial world.

Mad; Your idea for an acid test with leaf degradation is an interesting concept and valid if taking things to the max. With a really active soil, deadfall does not last long.

Gonerooty; I need to learn more first but have a hypothesis these mycorrhizal fungi are grown in compost and compost tea. They are not actually all dark BTW; many are hyaline.

Von; Great question and one I wish I could answer accurately. What worked for us was 18 inches deep; 14 wide and around 36 inches long with several small plants [eg. triggered at 10 inches] I'm an advocate of using what is easily available so usually recommend, the largest possible for one's situation.

Turbofish; As stated, I don't know much about the different brands but feel that a company promoting a change in inputs for vegetation and flower may not be totally clued into natural growing. I'm not a big believer in the sudden P onslaught for flower, thinking the plant selects what it wants at various phases but different strokes and I certainly don't know everything. [I do have a nagging suspicion that high P promotes powdery mildew]

Hey Coot; I've not had much to do with the Sunshine products since the long gone days of using the mixes. The peat moss I prefer is harvested by Premier in northern Alberta and is finer and darker in color. (see link)

http://www.peatmoss.com/pm-membs.php

As you know I ran testing on Alaska Peat and found it to be microbially active. In comparing it to the Premier in a brief test down at the garden show, the Premier proved superior. [On the bag it says Promoss Hort] I'm not sure if this grade is available south of the 49th.

As far as porosity issues and the coarseness of the product, I guess that is where the tradeoff may come in for porosity vs microbe content or consider looking at the info compiled by Spurr for porosity requirements in a mix with peat and 'aged' bark fines.
 
V

vonforne

.


Von; Great question and one I wish I could answer accurately. What worked for us was 18 inches deep; 14 wide and around 36 inches long with several small plants [eg. triggered at 10 inches] I'm an advocate of using what is easily available so usually recommend, the largest possible for one's situation.
everything.
.

so you were using trays basically? Hmmmmmm I was thinking more of a system to handle a larger amount of plants. Well I have a few weeks to think this out. When I get it started I expect your expert advice. It will be my first large scale grow bed project.

This should be interesting to say the least. I might try those trays first.

How many lights did you run over them and how many per sq. meter?

V
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
so you were using trays basically? Hmmmmmm I was thinking more of a system to handle a larger amount of plants. Well I have a few weeks to think this out. When I get it started I expect your expert advice. It will be my first large scale grow bed project.

This should be interesting to say the least. I might try those trays first.

How many lights did you run over them and how many per sq. meter?

V

I used a vertical system with 4 bins stacked and in a basic circle around 3 vertically hung 1000 watt hps. I posted a description & photos a long time ago in vertical gardens. I'll look for it later. Vertical may not suit your situation. There are drainage issues to deal with. If you have lights overhead you can make a more uniform growing bin. I had another one with overhead lights which was three feet deep but then I got shut down before I used it much.
 
V

vonforne

Ya, I will be using standard lighting not verts. I am also concerned with the weight as it will be on the second floor of an older house. 3 feet deep holy shit batman! That is a lot of weight!

How about 30 inches of so? About the depth of a 5 gallon bucket?

V
 

mad librettist

Active member
Veteran
von if you want to go shallower just find ways to eliminate the perched water.


stay in the corners where the floor is stronger lol. and use perlite or rice hulls instead of fancier stuff.
 
V

vonforne

von if you want to go shallower just find ways to eliminate the perched water.

I have always been an advocate of root depth. My older grows were all 5 gallon buckets.

So ML what depth would you think would be optimal for grow beds?

V
 

mad librettist

Active member
Veteran
I have always been an advocate of root depth. My older grows were all 5 gallon buckets.

So ML what depth would you think would be optimal for grow beds?

V

well my smart pots are 18 inches, and they behave a lot like raised beds. Given the same volume, a taller container will hold less perched water because the higher up you go the more gravity outweighs cohesion and capillary action. The level of the perched water is the spot where the forces pulling down are equal to the forces pulling up.

I'd say 15-20 inches, and if you go shallower make sure you have a wick.
 
V

vonforne

Hmmmm. less depth than a 5 gallon bucket. We will see. I am sure this is going to turn into an ongoing project......one I look forward to.

Thanks ML.

V
 

mad librettist

Active member
Veteran
how deep is a 5 gallon bucket?

I do like modular systems over beds, because it allows for more variation, and any mistakes are contained. Also with modular units I can remove cannabis and grow cover in an open window.

You could even have a bed of something sturdy with smart pots on top. The roots will go through.
 
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