Nutrient profile charts

[gOurd^jr.]

So I have been searching this morning trying to find a particular plant nutrient chart with no luck. I have revisited a couple other charts and skimmed through some great informative threads too though. I know other people search for these too so I thought a thread of this title might be a good place to post up some different charts.
Here is one that gets posted a lot and seems most suited for what you get when adding to compost pile. Some question the accuracy of these numbers, but it's just a rough outline. Actual NPK %'s may vary significantly depending on the source, growing conditions etc.
Alfalfa Hay: 2.45/05/2.1
Apple Fruit: 0.05/0.02/0.1
Apple Leaves: 1.0/0.15/0.4
Apple Pomace: 0.2/0.02/0.15
Apple skins(ash) : 0/3.0/11/74
Banana Residues (ash): 1.75/0.75/0.5
Barley (grain): 0/0/0.5
Barley (straw): 0/0/1.0
Basalt Rock: 0/0/1.5
Bat Guano: 5.0-8.0/4.0-5.0/1.0
Beans, garden(seed and hull): 0.25/0.08/03
Beet Wastes: 0.4/0.4/0.7-4.1
Blood meal: 15.0/0/0
Bone Black: 1.5/0/0
Bonemeal (raw): 3.3-4.1/21.0/0.2
Bonemeal (steamed): 1.6-2.5/21.0/0.2
Brewery Wastes (wet): 1.0/0.5/0.05
Buckwheat straw: 0/0/2.0
Cantaloupe Rinds (ash): 0/9.77/12.0
Castor pomace: 4.0-6.6/1.0-2.0/1.0-2.0
Cattail reeds and water lily stems: 2.0/0.8/3.4
Cattail Seed: 0.98/0.25/0.1
Cattle Manure (fresh): 0.29/0.25/0.1
Cherry Leaves: 0.6/0/0.7
Chicken Manure (fresh): 1.6/1.0-1.5/0.6-1.0
Clover: 2/0/0/0 (also contains calcium)
Cocoa Shell Dust: 1.0/1.5/1.7 Coffee Grounds: 2.0/0.36/0.67
Corn (grain): 1.65/0.65/0.4
Corn (green forage): 0.4/0.13/0.33
Corn cobs: 0/0/2.0
Corn Silage: 0.42/0/0
Cornstalks: 0.75/0/0.8
Cottonseed hulls (ash): 0/8.7/23.9Cottonseed Meal: 7.0/2.0-3.0/1.8
Cotton Wastes (factory): 1.32/0.45/0.36
Cowpea Hay: 3.0/0/2.3
Cowpeas (green forage): 0.45/0.12/0.45
Cowpeas (seed): 3.1/1.0/1.2
Crabgrass (green): 0.66/0.19/0.71
Crabs (dried, ground): 10.0/0/0 (I personally just crush the shells with my foot)
Crabs (fresh): 5.0/3.6/0.2
Cucumber Skins (ash): 0/11.28/27.2 ( WOW!!!! Who knew???)
Dried Blood: 10.0-14.0/1.0-5.0/0
Duck Manure (fresh): 1.12/1.44/0.6
Eggs: 2.25/0.4/0.15
Eggshells: 1.19/0.38/0.14
Feathers: 15.3/0/0
Felt Wastes: 14.0/0/1.0
Field Beans (seed): 4.0/1.2/1.3
Feild Beans (shells): 1.7/0.3/1.3
Fish (dried, ground): 8.0/7.0/0
Fish Scraps (fresh): 6.5/3.75/0
Gluten Meal: 6.4/0/0
Granite Dust: 0/0/3.0-5.5
Grapefruit Skins (ash): 0/3.6/30.6 (And people throw these things away? Wow!)
Grape Leaves: 0.45/0.1/0.4
Grape Pomace: 1.0/0.07/0.3
Grass (imature): 1.0/0/1.2
Greensand: 0/1.5/7.0
Hair: 14/0/0/0
Hoof and Horn Meal: 12.5/2.0/0
Horse Manure (fresh): 0.44/0.35/0.3
Incinerator Ash: 0.24/5.15/2.33
Jellyfish (dried): 4.6/0/0
Kentucky Bluegrass (green): 0.66/0.19/0.71
Kentucky Bluegrass (hay): 1.2/0.4/2.0
Leather Dust: 11.0/0/0
Lemon Culls: 0.15/0.06/0.26
Lemon Skins (ash): 06.33/1.0
Lobster Refuse: 4.5/3.5/0
Milk: 0.5/0.3/0.18
Millet Hay: 1.2/0/3.2
Molasses Residue
(From alcohol manufacture): 0.7/0/5.32
Molasses Waste
(From Sugar refining): 0/0/3.0-4.0
Mud (fresh water): 1.37/0.26/0.22
Mud (harbour): 0.99/0.77/0.05
Mud (salt): 0.4.0/0
Mussels: 1.0/0.12/0.13
Nutshells: 2.5/0/0
Oak Leaves: 0.8/0.35/0.2
Oats (grain): 2.0/0.8/0.6
Oats (green fodder): 0.49/0/0
Oat straw: 0/0/1.5
Olive Pomace: 1.15/0.78/1.3
Orange Culls: 0.2/0.13/0.21
Orange Skins: 0/3.0/27.0 (Right up there with Grapefruit. Note: both can attract fruit flies so, bury them in the compost)
Oyster Shells: 0.36/0/0
Peach Leaves: 0.9/0.15/0.6
Pea forage: 1.5-2.5/0/1.4
Peanuts (seed/kernals): 3.6/0.7/0.45
Peanut Shells: 3.6/0.15/0.5 (I grind them up in the food processor first)
Pea Pods (ash): 0/3.0/9.0 (I cut them up with a pair of scissors while shelling them)
Pea (vines): 0.25/0/0.7
Pear Leaves: 0.7/0/0.4
Pigeon manure (fresh): 4.19/2.24/1.0
Pigweed (rough): 0.6/0.1/0
Pine Needles: 0.5/0.12/0.03
Potato Skins (ash): 0/5.18/27.5
Potaote Tubers: 0.35/0.15/2.5
Potatoe Vines (dried): 0.6/0.16/1.6
Prune Refuse: 0.18/0.07/0.31
Pumpkins (fresh): 0.16/0.07/0.26
Rabbitbrush (ash): 0/0/13.04
Rabbit Manure: 2.4/1.4/0.6
Ragweed: 0.76/0.26/0
Rapeseed meal: 0/1.0=2.0/1.0=3.0
Raspberry leaves: 1.45/0/0.6
Red clover hay: 2.1/0.6/2.1
Redrop Hay: 1.2/0.35/1.0
Rock and Mussel Deposits
From Ocean: 0.22/0.09/1.78
Roses (flowers): 0.3/0.1/0.4
Rye Straw: 0/0/1.0
Salt March Hay: 1.1/0.25/0.75
Sardine Scrap: 8.0/7.1/0
Seaweed (dried): 1.1-1.5/0.75/4.9 (Seaweed is loaded with micronutrients including: Boron, Iodine, Magnesium and so on.)
Seaweed (fresh): 0.2-0.4/0/0
Sheep and Goat Manure (fresh): 0.55/0.6/0.3
Shoddy and Felt: 8.0/0/0
Shrimp Heads (dried): 7.8/4.2/0
Shrimp Wastes: 2.9/10.0/0
Siftings From Oyster Shell Mounds: 0.36/10.38/0.09
Silk Mill Wastes: 8.0/1.14/1.0
Silkworm Cocoons:10.0/1.82/1.08
Sludge: 2.0/1.9/0.3
Sludge (activated): 5.0/2.5-4.0/0.6
Smokehouse/Firepit Ash:0/0/4.96 (I put the ashes from my smoker in the pile)
Sorghum Straw:0/0/1.0
Soybean Hay: 1.5-3.0/0/1.2-2.3
Starfish: 1.8/0.2/0.25
Sugar Wastes (raw): 2.0/8.0/0
Sweet Potatoes: 0.25/0.1/0.5
Swine Manure (fresh): 0.6/0.45/0.5
Tanbark Ash: 0/0.34/3.8
Tanbark Ash (spent): 0/1.75/2.0
Tankage: 3.0-11.0/2.0-5.0/0
Tea Grounds: 4.15/0.62/0.4
Timothy Hay: 1.2/0.55/1.4
Tobacco Leaves: 4.0/0.5/6.0
Tobacco Stems: 2.5-3.7/0.6-0.9/4.5-7.0
Tomatoe Fruit: 0.2/0.07/0.35 (A note on tomatoe fruit: These should be hot composted. I just let any rotted or insect eaten tomatoes compost in the soil beneath the plants and have "freebees" come back each consecutive year. Hot composting will kill the seeds.)
Tomatoe Leaves: 0.35/0.1/0.4
Tomatoe Stalks: 0.35/0.1/0.5
Tung Oil Pumace: 6.1/0/0
Vetch Hay: 2.8/0/2.3
Waste Silt: 9.5/0/0
Wheat Bran: 2.4/2.9/1.6
Wheat (grain): 2.0/0.85/0.5
Wheat Straw: 0.5/0.15/0.8
White Clover (Green): 0.5/0.2/0.3
Winter Rye Hay: 0/0/1.0
Wood Ash: 0/1.0-2.0/6.0-10.0 (A note on Wood ash: Wood Ash can contain chemicals that could harm plants and also carcinogens so, they should be composted in moderation)
Wool Wastes: 3.5-6.0/2.0-4.0/1.0-3.5

And Dr. Dukes query is fantastic to search what plants have lots of a certain chemical/nutrient
http://www.ars-grin.gov/duke/highchem.html

Or here you can input a plant and get the full analysis of it
http://www.ars-grin.gov/duke/plants.html

BUT, what I've been looking for is yet another chart that just lists a bunch of plants and then each plant has an "x" marking the columns for nutrients it contains in significant amounts. It's much simpler than Dr. Duke's, and much easier to reference, FOR ME. anyone know what chart I mean? I think it may be posted as an image and that's why my searches aren't turning up results...
Thanks in advance for any help.
gOurd

 

[organicterra]

Here you go.
http://www.oregonbd.org/Class/accum.htm

 

[gOurd^jr.]

Ah yes! thank you!
got it bookmarked now.
interesting it says kelp without K...?

 

[jaykush]

just so everyone knows that list is to be roughly trusted, not sure who made it but its been posted many many times all through the web.

 

[gOurd^jr.]

yes I have seen several versions of these charts and there are many discrepancies. Lots of agreement too though. As said, roughly trusted, an outline.

 

[organicterra]

I guess it was these guys. I had it saved from somewhere.
The chart is in the on line class apendicies.

 

[Microbeman]

just so everyone knows that list is to be roughly trusted, not sure who made it but its been posted many many times all through the web.

ten-four; it is getting a little old

 

[organicterra]

Any examples of what's wrong with it? Or is the whole thing crap?
Just curious.

 

[Microbeman]

It's just that there are so many variables for the release of nutrients from organic matter; moisture, porosity and cec of soil; microbial activity etc. etc. nevermind the variability of the organic materials themselves. + as jay said it is posted everywhere

 

[organicterra]

Got it! Thanks.
I'll be sure not to put it up again. The OP asked...

 

[habeeb]

this is why me no like the dumping of raw material ..

if were growing veggies so no problem, but I'm growing a plant and trying to tune it to it's max potential, which to me will never be done when dumping in material with unknown nutrient content... notice I am not saying you can't grow, I'm saying tune-ability and maximizing, and above all, knowing.. haha

 

[mad librettist]

this is why me no like the dumping of raw material ..

if were growing veggies so no problem, but I'm growing a plant and trying to tune it to it's max potential, which to me will never be done when dumping in material with unknown nutrient content... notice I am not saying you can't grow, I'm saying tune-ability and maximizing, and above all, knowing.. haha

well this all depends on who is doing the tuning in your grow - you, or the plants.

 

[CC_2U]

The list from the Oregon Biodynamic group needs to taken in another context other than the ones mentioned by JK, MM and ML and that is that in spite of Oregon being an epicenter for organic food production, the Oregon Biodynamic group has less than 80 members. Hopefully their Christmas mailing will bring in a couple more farmers.

Then consider that the headquarters for the Biodynamic Farmers in the USA is here in Oregon somewhere down around Eugene I think. Not exactly a lot of support from organic farmers here it would seem.

Again - just another context to consider perhaps.

CC

 

[GoneRooty]

Hey CC, According to their website, their in Myrtle Point, OR. South of Coos Bay.
Also from their website:
Biodynamics combines "biological" agriculture with an understanding of "dynamic" ecological systems. If there is a "conventional" school of organic agriculture today, it practices "biological" farming. For example, it uses cover crops and manure to build the microbiology of the soil. The "dynamic" part of the practice takes a broader perspective to enhance metaphysical aspects (the life forces) and natural rhythms (such as planting seeds during certain lunar phases).

 

[CC_2U]

GR

I wasn't very clear on what I was saying. The headquarters for the Biodynamic Farming & Gardening Association is located in Junction City, Oregon - this is the 'national organization' (such as it is) for the 50 state groups. Like Oregon's BD group.

And then there is the BD certification group, Demeter-USA which is part of the international Demeter group formed in Germany in the late 1920's. The Demeter-USA certification falls under USDA NOP (like Oregon Tilth, CCOF, Washington Tilth, et al) meaning that their certification is accepted across Canada, the USA, Mexico and most of Central America.

I'm all behind the BD methods in the area of composting, permaculture, etc. The ol' horn buried in the field for 6 months - not so much.

To each their own.

CC

 

[mad librettist]

I must say I prefer the biological approach, but also appreciate biodynamics.

Not for me, but it works for many.

 

[Microbeman]

Got it! Thanks.
I'll be sure not to put it up again. The OP asked...

I was not implying criticism BTW.