best solvent for iso hash?

[mdk ktm]

hey guys, i have a ton of trim to make hash with. I cant buy bubble bags yet, and butane is out of the question.

My question is what solvent works best for a quick wash?

i have seen someone on here make some good looking hash on here with...... fuck i cant remember now. FUCK.


Anyway what can i use besides iso to do a big run?

 

[Japanfreakier]

iso for isopropanol

 

[mdk ktm]

well yeah, but there are other solvents that can be used. Because i dont want to go buy 20 pints of iso alcohol. Fuck i cant remember what it is though.

 

[mdk ktm]

i just remembered, a dude on here used acetone and the end product looked pretty damn good. Does anybody have any experience using acetone?

 

[twrex]

The only things I've ever seen people use are: ethanol (green dragon); isopropanol/isopropyl alcohol (qwiso or iso hash); acetone (no name that I'm aware of); and butane (honey oil or hash oil)

In any case the main thing is to make sure that it's as pure as possible. The more water there is then the more it will take on a 'green' taste (not to mention take longer). Of course with any other adulterants, I'm sure you can imagine how nasty those might be.

 

[Nickog]

I did the quick wash method with Acetone, ISO, Denatured Alcohol. and Naptha, and Ethanol 96%. I repeated the tests about 4 times with variations in the method of exposure. I believe the Acetone is the best. I consistantly got the highest yield, and it evaporated twice as fast as the other solvents.

 

[love?]

That's very interesting Nickog.

How about the safety issue though? Is isopropanol safer?

The MSDS for acetone says "Readily forms explosive mixtures with air" whereas the one for isopropanol only says "Vapour-air mixtures may be explosive".

 

[reckon]

just be advised that of those solvents listed nothing except butane will make a more impressive fire ball than acetone

the vapors are quite heavy, and will flow like water on the floor, so do ALL of this outside.

all it takes is a spark from a thermostat, or the vapors to reach a pilot light, and you have a driveway full of fire trucks, and maybe even worse.

always respect explosives and high flammables, or they have a way of teaching you the hard way.

ok now that karma has been fed: I love acetone washes!,..I used to run BHO, and iso, but the acetone gives a very high quality extract, QUICK, purges fast, and leaves nothing behind.

I did a run using the baked epsom salts to get an anhydrous solvent, but noticed no difference between that and the non "epsom'd" run

 

[Tripsick]

this post has 4 different solvents.
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=169679&page=2

 

[Nickog]

That's very interesting Nickog.

How about the safety issue though? Is isopropanol safer?

The MSDS for acetone says "Readily forms explosive mixtures with air" whereas the one for isopropanol only says "Vapour-air mixtures may be explosive".

ISO may be safer but I am working outside, away from any gas or open flames. I did have an incident once with the acetone working inside.
I was doing small tests with 20 gms of trim and 50 gms of solvent. I had 4 glass dishes. I was trying to purge the product in a double boiler.
I have a gas stove inside my kitchen. I had the dish with the acetone about 18" away from the gas burner. Suddenly, it flamed up. I grabbed a kitchen towel and grabbed the dish, turned around and put it in the sink and turned on the water. Now, I only work outside and got electric burners from goodwill. I am far away from the gas waterheater and feel very safe.

 

[JacuzziSplot]

flash point is the best measure of flammability danger with liquids. It means the lowest temperature a flammable liquid begins to vaporize. Acetone has a flash point of -4F and boils at 56F so always use in well ventilated room. Isopropanol has a flash point of 53f and boils at 180F so is much safer at room temp than Acetone.

 

[mdk ktm]

damn, i forgot about this. Thanks for all the good info guys. It will be helpful whenever i can get back into growing.

 

[foomar]

Have run acetone and iso and found little difference in the product , chill the acetone to near freezeing point and a very fast wash time or too many waxes come over and can give poor colour and an unpleasent taste , same method for Salvia extractions.

Despite the awfull smell it purges out easily with heat or vacumn , often cheaper from automotive paint factors than ISO , 99.95% purity the rest is water with no residue.

 

[QcIndica]

I use -Naphta-

 

[tag]

grain alcohol or white lightning of 165 proof or better works well. if you wont ingest it you probably shouldnt use it to make a product that is ingested

 

[fly poster]

Chloroform IMO is one of the best, along with acetone. Chloroform will not take on Chlorophyll, so really pure.

 

[Tokingham]

Hexane or heptane should work well.

N/m they work but are a little bit hard to get all of it out of the oil.

 

[Phaeton]

I use a 2 cup mason jar, hexane not quite covering the bud, shake 90 seconds and immediately pour through a coffee filter. In, out, very fast.

Using a two cup slow cooker (35 watt crock pot), cook for a couple hours, oil will be runny but very thick.

I invested in a $750 vacuum pump as I do this a lot. Vacuum is put to the slow cooker for ten minutes, or until the mix quits bubbling.

Just over 75 percent THC depending on bud trim. Stays soft and runny for up to 2 years, possibly longer, but that is the oldest lost bottle I have found. It worked fine and still dripped off the end of a paper clip.

Without the vacuum the hexane will not completely purge until over 275 degrees, killing a major portion of the THC and making it taste just horrible.

I'm new, no idea what is best, but this is what I have done since 2004. Isolated in interior Alaska, I do not get out much.

 

[Gray Wolf]

I'm thinking the answer to the central thread question, is the cost of solvents where you live, as well as the time and effort required.

Here in Portland, we have all the solvents readily available to us, though some are cheaper than others.

The absolute cheapest that we found here locally was denatured alcohol at about $10 a gallon and ISO second at $22.32 per gallon.

The most expensive is HPLC Hexane at about $70 liter and then 190 proof Ethanol at $80.43/gallon, because of liquor taxes. Acetone, and Butane fall in the middle.

We mostly use Butane and Ethanol to extract oral meds, because of patient concerns, which are para-logistic and are often tied to their ignorance and emotions. Rather than argue after attempts at education, we just give them what they want, because they have enough emotional concerns from their qualifying conditions and some are possibly certifiably insane.

Never forget what you see is what you get and that there is pathology in the populous! More so in some populations than others. In my personal experience, trying to educate and convert the ignorance of the great unwashed, is not for the most part met with heart felt embrace and acceptance.

Way easier to cut them compassion and understanding than to in any way influence their reality, which has often already been locked in concrete.

We have extracted with Hexane to evaluate the results, but for the most part use it only to refine already extracted oils, to conserve its use.

The extracts that we have done with the various solvents were all good, some required more work to purge the solvents than others, and with out exception were embraced by the patient panel members sampling them.

Not an issue of mother's milk, vis a vis rat feces, they embraced it all!

We use denatured to extract stem material for topicals, which it does extremely well. We have experimented with using it for trim extract, but not bud at this point.

Locally the best denatured is higher in Methanol than any other ingredient, which is more aggressive, and requires less soak time than Ethanol. When used to extract trim and fully purged, it is flavorful and works well.

Stem extractions using Methanol (or anything else) are not particularly flavorful, and attempts at extracting oil from ground roots yielded very little.

My input, for how little it is actually worth in the overall scheme of things, is to check prices, as well as your application, and then look for the most cost effective applicable process. It is all good, some is just more costly and more work than others.

My second best input is to pay attention to your patient's fears and concerns! Even though they may be misguided and are illogical, they are what is chruning your patients innards!

 

[Tokingham]

I use a 2 cup mason jar, hexane not quite covering the bud, shake 90 seconds and immediately pour through a coffee filter. In, out, very fast.

Using a two cup slow cooker (35 watt crock pot), cook for a couple hours, oil will be runny but very thick.

I invested in a $750 vacuum pump as I do this a lot. Vacuum is put to the slow cooker for ten minutes, or until the mix quits bubbling.

Just over 75 percent THC depending on bud trim. Stays soft and runny for up to 2 years, possibly longer, but that is the oldest lost bottle I have found. It worked fine and still dripped off the end of a paper clip.

Without the vacuum the hexane will not completely purge until over 275 degrees, killing a major portion of the THC and making it taste just horrible.

I'm new, no idea what is best, but this is what I have done since 2004. Isolated in interior Alaska, I do not get out much.

Here is a secret. GW helped me decide not to post this info to share. Thank him for my edit.

hexane FTMFW!