Eol
Member
Here is some information on fytocell.
FYTOCELL - 50 LITRES
SOILESS SUBSTRATE
Is Fytocell for Hydroponics?
Fytocell has been developed to be used as 100% hydroponic growing media on its own, but can be mixed with perlite, rockwool, coir and even clay balls.
What systems can I use Fytocell in?
Fytocell will work well in a dripper or hand watered run to waste system.
Will Fytocell work in a recirculating system?
Absolutely. Either in a dripper, or flood & drain recirculating system.
Do I need to prepare Fytocell for planting?
Ideally yes. It does not matter whether you are running to waste or recirculating, it is best to run just water through the system for 24 hours. At the end of this period dump this water and start with a 1/4 or 1/2 strength nutrient solution.
Should I saturate Fytocell before starting?
If you are not going to flush the system as above, you will need to saturate the Fytocell with water in the bag for 24 hours. This also stops Fytocell being too fluffy.
Do I need to pH adjust Fytocell?
No. Fytocell comes already pH adjusted between, 5.5 – 7.0
Does Fytocell have any nutritional value?
No
When using a recirculating system, do I need to do anything different?
Fytocell has a combination of particle sizes. It is best to place a pot sock or a stocking in your pot to stop these fines. In addition, it is better if you can place a filter over your pump intake. With recirculating for 24 hours you will greatly reduce the amount of fines.
How do I plant the advanced plant into a pot of Fytocell?
Most advanced plants are grown in rockwool cubes / blocks or FytoClone. With rockwool it is very important that you place the cube/block on top of the Fytocell or only slightly into it, ie 5 mm.
Why sit the advanced plant rockwool block on top?
If the top of the rockwool block is planted flush with the top of the Fytocell, it can not self regulate its water / air content. As Fytocell holds up to 60% water and after that releases excess water, it gives this excess to the rockwool. The root environment of the young plant becomes too wet with very little air. Creating an anaerobic situation and the young plant will die quickly.
What irrigation regime do I use in the first 0-14 days after planting the advanced plant?
Much depends on your environment, but because Fytocell holds a large amount of water you are better to water slightly less for this period. If the Fytocell starts to dry out you can slowly increase the amount of water either by volume per cycle or the number cycles.
What irrigation regime should I use in a dripper system after 14 days?
Fytocell is very flexible because it holds a lot of water and air, but still flushes and drains well.
Anyone switching from rockwool should not have to change a thing. The old adage little and often works well.
Switching from coir. After the initial 14 day period and as the roots get down into the Fytocell, Fytocell is far more tolerant to greater amounts of water than coir.
Switching from clay balls and perlite is a bit more dramatic. They both hold less water and so they are watered more often.
In summary Fytocell can be watered a range of ways from once every 1-2 days to a number of small waterings throughout the day. Fytocell does not require a large volume of water 3 - 4 or more times a day, all things being equal regarding, environment, pot and plant size.
What irrigation regime should I use in a flood & drain system after 14 days?
Fytocell is a denser product than either clay balls or rockwool. This means Fytocell relies on capillary action to move the water upwards. You may have to initially flood the tray for longer and to a higher level. However you will probably only have to do this once per day. Always pull back on the watering initially. You can always increase it if necessary.
How can I expect plants to grow and look in Fytocell?
The initial 0-14 days the plant may look like it is sitting still. In this time the plant is furiously putting roots down into the Fytocell. You then see the plant explode in growth.
Fytocell Qualities
Physical
The air / water ratio in Fytocell is unique with approximately 37- 40% being air and 57- 60% water. The remaining 3% is dry / solid matter and unpenetrable. This means there is almost no barrier to root growth in a physical sense.
Temperature Heat/Cool
Many substrates / medias hold either an excessive amount of air or water, but not reasonable quantities of both. As Fytocell holds this 57% water it acts as a great insulator under warm conditions, slower to heat up during the day and once warm offering some heat in the evening. Air is very quick to either heat up or cool down.
This is also why when using Fytocell and FytoClone under cool conditions that you must provide some kind of artificial heat. Due to the fact that moisture content is good at approx 60%, if the air temperature is very cold the water will become cool over time and therefore is also slower to warm up.
Moisture
The ability of Fytocell to hold water is very good. Due to this fact Fytocell can be watered slightly differently than many media. This can be done in either small irrigations, at a regular interval, or a larger irrigation perhaps as little as once per day or even 2-3 days.
Plant Available Water
Fytocell while containing good ratios of air and water has no problem in giving what water it does have, to the roots' as they require it. For example a 10L or 2.3 gal pot saturated, holds approximately 5L or 1.2gal of water. In experiments, plants have been able to stay green and grow in these pots even to the point where there is not even a drop of water left in the Fytocell. There is of course some stress, but there is no other media that does this.
The plant available water abilities of Fytocell are amazing.
Capillary Action
Fytocell has excellent capillary action. It takes up water both vertically and horizontally. A pot with holes in the bottom, filled with Fytocell, will draw water upwards approximately 15cm or 6 inches. This water will move at an even level up through the pot. It will not saturate to a percentage higher than approximately 60% by volume when drawing water from below.
Drainage
Fytocell drains by gravity. As long as the water/nutrient solution has some where to drain to, it will never hold more that approximately 60% moisture by volume.
If Fytocell is watered too much, and too often, you may not allow enough time for Fytocell to gravity drain.
Cation Exchange
Fytocell has a low cation exchange ability, which means it flushes salt build up easily.
Fytocell Flakes
Part of the success of Fytocell is it's large air component. Therefore when placing the saturated Flakes in the pot do not compress these down. This does mean over time there may be some natural slumpage, but this will have no effect on the established plant. If you want to you can top up the pot.
Fytocell Slabs
These are not as robust as some other media types, however this has absolutely no bearing on Fytocells' great performance. If the slabs break, just manually push them back together. Due to the way Fytocell holds air/water and it's great capillary action
These cracks/breaks do NOT cause a problem.
It came from this thread: http://www.uk420.com/boards/index.php?showtopic=217275&pid=2175749&mode=threaded&show=&st=0 which I highly recommend reading as they discuss fytocell in some depth. One of the users also posted up some pictures illustrating the capillary abilities of fytocell.
Mine arrived today, it's strange stuff indeed!
FYTOCELL - 50 LITRES
SOILESS SUBSTRATE
Is Fytocell for Hydroponics?
Fytocell has been developed to be used as 100% hydroponic growing media on its own, but can be mixed with perlite, rockwool, coir and even clay balls.
What systems can I use Fytocell in?
Fytocell will work well in a dripper or hand watered run to waste system.
Will Fytocell work in a recirculating system?
Absolutely. Either in a dripper, or flood & drain recirculating system.
Do I need to prepare Fytocell for planting?
Ideally yes. It does not matter whether you are running to waste or recirculating, it is best to run just water through the system for 24 hours. At the end of this period dump this water and start with a 1/4 or 1/2 strength nutrient solution.
Should I saturate Fytocell before starting?
If you are not going to flush the system as above, you will need to saturate the Fytocell with water in the bag for 24 hours. This also stops Fytocell being too fluffy.
Do I need to pH adjust Fytocell?
No. Fytocell comes already pH adjusted between, 5.5 – 7.0
Does Fytocell have any nutritional value?
No
When using a recirculating system, do I need to do anything different?
Fytocell has a combination of particle sizes. It is best to place a pot sock or a stocking in your pot to stop these fines. In addition, it is better if you can place a filter over your pump intake. With recirculating for 24 hours you will greatly reduce the amount of fines.
How do I plant the advanced plant into a pot of Fytocell?
Most advanced plants are grown in rockwool cubes / blocks or FytoClone. With rockwool it is very important that you place the cube/block on top of the Fytocell or only slightly into it, ie 5 mm.
Why sit the advanced plant rockwool block on top?
If the top of the rockwool block is planted flush with the top of the Fytocell, it can not self regulate its water / air content. As Fytocell holds up to 60% water and after that releases excess water, it gives this excess to the rockwool. The root environment of the young plant becomes too wet with very little air. Creating an anaerobic situation and the young plant will die quickly.
What irrigation regime do I use in the first 0-14 days after planting the advanced plant?
Much depends on your environment, but because Fytocell holds a large amount of water you are better to water slightly less for this period. If the Fytocell starts to dry out you can slowly increase the amount of water either by volume per cycle or the number cycles.
What irrigation regime should I use in a dripper system after 14 days?
Fytocell is very flexible because it holds a lot of water and air, but still flushes and drains well.
Anyone switching from rockwool should not have to change a thing. The old adage little and often works well.
Switching from coir. After the initial 14 day period and as the roots get down into the Fytocell, Fytocell is far more tolerant to greater amounts of water than coir.
Switching from clay balls and perlite is a bit more dramatic. They both hold less water and so they are watered more often.
In summary Fytocell can be watered a range of ways from once every 1-2 days to a number of small waterings throughout the day. Fytocell does not require a large volume of water 3 - 4 or more times a day, all things being equal regarding, environment, pot and plant size.
What irrigation regime should I use in a flood & drain system after 14 days?
Fytocell is a denser product than either clay balls or rockwool. This means Fytocell relies on capillary action to move the water upwards. You may have to initially flood the tray for longer and to a higher level. However you will probably only have to do this once per day. Always pull back on the watering initially. You can always increase it if necessary.
How can I expect plants to grow and look in Fytocell?
The initial 0-14 days the plant may look like it is sitting still. In this time the plant is furiously putting roots down into the Fytocell. You then see the plant explode in growth.
Fytocell Qualities
Physical
The air / water ratio in Fytocell is unique with approximately 37- 40% being air and 57- 60% water. The remaining 3% is dry / solid matter and unpenetrable. This means there is almost no barrier to root growth in a physical sense.
Temperature Heat/Cool
Many substrates / medias hold either an excessive amount of air or water, but not reasonable quantities of both. As Fytocell holds this 57% water it acts as a great insulator under warm conditions, slower to heat up during the day and once warm offering some heat in the evening. Air is very quick to either heat up or cool down.
This is also why when using Fytocell and FytoClone under cool conditions that you must provide some kind of artificial heat. Due to the fact that moisture content is good at approx 60%, if the air temperature is very cold the water will become cool over time and therefore is also slower to warm up.
Moisture
The ability of Fytocell to hold water is very good. Due to this fact Fytocell can be watered slightly differently than many media. This can be done in either small irrigations, at a regular interval, or a larger irrigation perhaps as little as once per day or even 2-3 days.
Plant Available Water
Fytocell while containing good ratios of air and water has no problem in giving what water it does have, to the roots' as they require it. For example a 10L or 2.3 gal pot saturated, holds approximately 5L or 1.2gal of water. In experiments, plants have been able to stay green and grow in these pots even to the point where there is not even a drop of water left in the Fytocell. There is of course some stress, but there is no other media that does this.
The plant available water abilities of Fytocell are amazing.
Capillary Action
Fytocell has excellent capillary action. It takes up water both vertically and horizontally. A pot with holes in the bottom, filled with Fytocell, will draw water upwards approximately 15cm or 6 inches. This water will move at an even level up through the pot. It will not saturate to a percentage higher than approximately 60% by volume when drawing water from below.
Drainage
Fytocell drains by gravity. As long as the water/nutrient solution has some where to drain to, it will never hold more that approximately 60% moisture by volume.
If Fytocell is watered too much, and too often, you may not allow enough time for Fytocell to gravity drain.
Cation Exchange
Fytocell has a low cation exchange ability, which means it flushes salt build up easily.
Fytocell Flakes
Part of the success of Fytocell is it's large air component. Therefore when placing the saturated Flakes in the pot do not compress these down. This does mean over time there may be some natural slumpage, but this will have no effect on the established plant. If you want to you can top up the pot.
Fytocell Slabs
These are not as robust as some other media types, however this has absolutely no bearing on Fytocells' great performance. If the slabs break, just manually push them back together. Due to the way Fytocell holds air/water and it's great capillary action
These cracks/breaks do NOT cause a problem.
It came from this thread: http://www.uk420.com/boards/index.php?showtopic=217275&pid=2175749&mode=threaded&show=&st=0 which I highly recommend reading as they discuss fytocell in some depth. One of the users also posted up some pictures illustrating the capillary abilities of fytocell.
Mine arrived today, it's strange stuff indeed!
Hey dudes,
Yeah Lazi was my Teacher over on UK420.
I have a few diary's over there, my name is Budzilla2010. Some of you may have seen me already, I know I just received a message from Eol over there so I guess he can confirm for now??
I noticed these ridiculous growth rates and how the Res had evolved when using Fytocell.
Lazi went MIA so I wanted to name it after him but I guess its just a Hempy really.
The brilliant thing about Fytocell is it always holds a minimum of 37% air and can not be saturated or overwatered. Even if you forcibly held it under water it would not lose this air content. It will also hold up to 60% water. the water content is usually between 50 and 60%, 3% is actuall Fytocell.
The 'super' capillary action means the water content is evenly distributed throughout the pot, the roots grow every where and I mean everywhere. the top of the pots looks like it has a wicker net all the way across it.
It is the absolute bollocks this stuff. Its available in US from e-hydro (Cali).
I use it in Mineral hydro but I am now test piloting using this stuff in Bioponics using Biosevia and it's blowing me away!! The beneficial's love living in the Fytocell!
Everything I do with this stuff seems to turn up trumps, roots absolutely love it no matter what. It really is like it is magic or something.
I have also started mixing it 30% into my Soil mixes and using a 2'' Fytocell res at the bottom of my pots, Plants love it, I bottom feed and she sucks up 2 litres in 10 seconds, its such good stuff to have and is the best, it really really is.
I want to get some pictures up but i've not been here long and no one has been able to calm my nerves with regards to site security and server location - being a paraloon!
p.s. It is the Fytocell flakes that are the best, what I use. If you can get it in the 25L grow bags then you do not need to pre-condition it!
Yeah Lazi was my Teacher over on UK420.
I have a few diary's over there, my name is Budzilla2010. Some of you may have seen me already, I know I just received a message from Eol over there so I guess he can confirm for now??
I noticed these ridiculous growth rates and how the Res had evolved when using Fytocell.
Lazi went MIA so I wanted to name it after him but I guess its just a Hempy really.
The brilliant thing about Fytocell is it always holds a minimum of 37% air and can not be saturated or overwatered. Even if you forcibly held it under water it would not lose this air content. It will also hold up to 60% water. the water content is usually between 50 and 60%, 3% is actuall Fytocell.
The 'super' capillary action means the water content is evenly distributed throughout the pot, the roots grow every where and I mean everywhere. the top of the pots looks like it has a wicker net all the way across it.
It is the absolute bollocks this stuff. Its available in US from e-hydro (Cali).
I use it in Mineral hydro but I am now test piloting using this stuff in Bioponics using Biosevia and it's blowing me away!! The beneficial's love living in the Fytocell!
Everything I do with this stuff seems to turn up trumps, roots absolutely love it no matter what. It really is like it is magic or something.
I have also started mixing it 30% into my Soil mixes and using a 2'' Fytocell res at the bottom of my pots, Plants love it, I bottom feed and she sucks up 2 litres in 10 seconds, its such good stuff to have and is the best, it really really is.
I want to get some pictures up but i've not been here long and no one has been able to calm my nerves with regards to site security and server location - being a paraloon!
p.s. It is the Fytocell flakes that are the best, what I use. If you can get it in the 25L grow bags then you do not need to pre-condition it!
This is at day 28 flower
This is UGORG's Killer Skunk. Its taking up over half the DS120 grow tent. I said 10oz, I think it will be more. It guess 10oz if it was exactly half the tent but this bitch is hogging about 65% of it.
The branches are as thick as my Clipper lighter, I can not get my hand around the stem. Its like a tree and she only vegged for 7 weeks from seed!
This is UGORG's Killer Skunk. Its taking up over half the DS120 grow tent. I said 10oz, I think it will be more. It guess 10oz if it was exactly half the tent but this bitch is hogging about 65% of it.
The branches are as thick as my Clipper lighter, I can not get my hand around the stem. Its like a tree and she only vegged for 7 weeks from seed!
Attachments
Oh yeah Tutu's my bud too. That's just taken of the manufacturers website.
The people that make Fytocell are called Aqua Resin Technologies, Google that and you will see a few other interesting things, I particularly like the fytowall!
Tutu and Lazi are very credible growers. You can take their word as gospel. Me too, but none of you know me yet.
The people that make Fytocell are called Aqua Resin Technologies, Google that and you will see a few other interesting things, I particularly like the fytowall!
Tutu and Lazi are very credible growers. You can take their word as gospel. Me too, but none of you know me yet.
Eol
Member
Yeh I can confirm budrot = budzilla on uk420.com. His results with fytocell (and others on the forum), have been most impressive - combining simplicity with rapid growth.
Budrot, icmag employs similar security mechanisms to uk420. Servers are hosted in the netherlands and IPs are kept for a short a duration as possible before being wiped. Also given the fact this is mostly an american forum, I'd say it's even safer than uk420 in that respect =).
I'm about to conduct a hempy bucket grow with fytocell, using modified air pots. Air pots encourage greater root development due to air pruning of the roots, see here for more info: http://www.progrow.co.uk/acatalog/info_5019.html
It's really simple, but I thought I'd post up how I modified them:
************
Two month Later Edit
I first made the hempy air pots using silicone sealant to fill the holes, I then tried another batch without silicone and you don't need it at all. All you need is the bin bag to be securely tied at the desired height. I have thus edited the method below to not include the silicone steps.
I can also report after two months of using them I have had no issues whatsoever - indeed I call them a success!
************
First off, you will need: air pots, some bin bags and some cable ties.
I cut out a circular piece of bin bag, and use the cable tie to make it into a base (I also used the base that comes with the air pots, just to take some of the weight of the medium off the bin bag).
I then tested this with some water and it worked, no leaks unless I filled it above the drainage holes.
Next I added the fytocell and it could take the weight of that too.
Lastly, I added water to the pot and it could take the weight of that too. Only leaked if I filled above the drainage holes =)
Any thoughts or criticisms are welcome =)
Budrot, icmag employs similar security mechanisms to uk420. Servers are hosted in the netherlands and IPs are kept for a short a duration as possible before being wiped. Also given the fact this is mostly an american forum, I'd say it's even safer than uk420 in that respect =).
I'm about to conduct a hempy bucket grow with fytocell, using modified air pots. Air pots encourage greater root development due to air pruning of the roots, see here for more info: http://www.progrow.co.uk/acatalog/info_5019.html
It's really simple, but I thought I'd post up how I modified them:
************
Two month Later Edit
I first made the hempy air pots using silicone sealant to fill the holes, I then tried another batch without silicone and you don't need it at all. All you need is the bin bag to be securely tied at the desired height. I have thus edited the method below to not include the silicone steps.
I can also report after two months of using them I have had no issues whatsoever - indeed I call them a success!
************
First off, you will need: air pots, some bin bags and some cable ties.
I cut out a circular piece of bin bag, and use the cable tie to make it into a base (I also used the base that comes with the air pots, just to take some of the weight of the medium off the bin bag).
I then tested this with some water and it worked, no leaks unless I filled it above the drainage holes.
Next I added the fytocell and it could take the weight of that too.
Lastly, I added water to the pot and it could take the weight of that too. Only leaked if I filled above the drainage holes =)
Any thoughts or criticisms are welcome =)
That looks like it will work pretty good.
When using this stuff its pretty important to precondition it.
To do this you have to saturate it for 24-48 hours, the Longer the better IMO. It will want to float so you have to forcibly hold it down somehow.
I fill a bucket, add water to fill and put another bucket full of water on top to hold it down. You can just fill the bags if you only make a small hole, just enough for the hose to go through.
When using this stuff its pretty important to precondition it.
To do this you have to saturate it for 24-48 hours, the Longer the better IMO. It will want to float so you have to forcibly hold it down somehow.
I fill a bucket, add water to fill and put another bucket full of water on top to hold it down. You can just fill the bags if you only make a small hole, just enough for the hose to go through.
PoisonedDart
Member
I use a ladies nylon stretched over the bucket to hold in fine material. Works as simple as you would imagine.
PD
kusher.jim
New member
One think is for sure the rootball of Hempy versus the rootball of a bubbler is funny.
This new product looks promising
This new product looks promising
Wow eol, you are doing exactly the the same as me re modding an airpot into a hempy, I was gonna block up the holes with sealant and then glue a solid piece of Perspex to the bottom, your way looks a lot simpler!
I am currently running a side by side grow of pure coco hempys on a perlite Rez next to pure fytocell hempys with a perlite Rez. The ftocell ones were vegged for a week less but are bigger and with more budsites, they are looking likely to outyield the coco ones slightly.
I honestly think that an airpot with fytocell is the ultimate form of he hempy, I've been running coco hempys for 18 months btw
I am currently running a side by side grow of pure coco hempys on a perlite Rez next to pure fytocell hempys with a perlite Rez. The ftocell ones were vegged for a week less but are bigger and with more budsites, they are looking likely to outyield the coco ones slightly.
I honestly think that an airpot with fytocell is the ultimate form of he hempy, I've been running coco hempys for 18 months btw
Budrot - I used to get a mass of roots breaking the surface in my coco hempys. I think it was caused by excessive humidity which arose due to me having loads of run off lying around. I reduced the rh and the roots don't break the surface now.
Eol
Member
Good thanks man =) - I transplanted three babies yesterday into fytocell airpots so they're still in a bit of transplant shock atm I think. I go away tonight for five days, but as they're so small I think there'll be more than enough water in the pot for them to get by. I've fed them with some rhizotonic and superthrive, so hopefully by the time I get back there will have been some considerable root growth =D
Haha nice one man, great minds
- yeah my way is simpler, but in the long run I think the perspex base will be much better. A bin bag is easily ripped after all - though it will provide a larger rez compared to perspex, as it fills out with water to the sides. Looks like an interesting grow you got going there! Glad to see the fytocell is outperforming =D - are both in air pots? You should get some pics up =) - there's even a special side by side grow subforum!
Haha I had the exact same thought re ultimate hempy
The Fytocell hempy will crush the coco one, i've had reports on comparisons at UK420, nothing beats Fytocell for growth rates or yield.
Try using a Fytocell res next time as your loosing out on capillary action from the res area with a perlite base.
The roots will grow on the surface in Fytocell regardless of the environment. Its because of the capillary action and that all they fytocell stays evenly wet. The roots will grow wherever the Fytocell is and by god do they love it.
Eol, you will see the rapid growth once your tap roots hit the res as usual in a hempy. If you were growing in standard pots the rapid growth also starts when the tap root hits the bottom of the pot. Give it 5 days to root, in 10 days you will be amazed and shocked. The real fun comes when you pot up and see the ridiculous network of roots webbing all over the pots.
I rooted that mini hempy out in a week and had to pot on.
5 days will be fine between watering when they are small. The more you water the quicker the growth is though. The extra air and fresh nutes does them a world of good.
Nah I'm not currently growing in airpots, am plannig a 4 plant 1200w scrog in the modded air pots and will post some pics of that in a few months. Will also post final results of the coco v fyto side by side
Dub if you're in uk you get fyto from greens if not then Christ knows
Dub if you're in uk you get fyto from greens if not then Christ knows
