How do you grow OG Kush for big yields?

[BudZad7]

BIG Yields~ OG Kush!

BIG Yields~ OG Kush!

Hi All! Very good info!!! After 5 years of testing with this strain
with various food products, light setups, environment flucuations....
these strains like EC 1.4 in veg, and EC 1.8 in bloom, but these can be
pushed to EC1.6 veg, and EC 2.0~2.2 in bloom, but be careful....
Also, standard flouros seem to work well in veg,for a bushier plant,with
short internode spacing,and more bud sites....without topping the plant
nature does not top plants, so why should we?? Unless the wind blows
them over,or snaps them off, but that's outdoors, most folks are indoors .....use 6" Hugo cubes,for a nice size root system, now they have 8" Big Mama cubes.....perfect for your mother plants, anyway
put the OG Kush in a DWC 5gal bucket with a 3 gal insert,and Hydroton
surrounding the 6" cube, with a GH farm kit pumping food.....
Tried all major foods, except the Bloom line....????
for taste and smell BOTANICARE all the way!!!
Most people thought that the final product was grown outdoors in
the ground organically, not in a bucket with dirt outdoors
Yes the vertical lighting is the key with this strain, use a combo of
flouros and HPS 1000watt a nice spectrum (Phillips 32w 5000K 48")
and also 3000K flouros 32w 48". Wish they made 2100K flouros.....
Also, try the new Horilux 1000w Blue bulb 5500K, nice for veg/bloom
The above bucket system seems to be the ticket for YIELD!!!
Here's 1st pic of OG... 2-15-10 day 1 in the bucket,and 2nd pic most
recent in bucket:::Also,notice to the left, the stick/stem in the cube next to the bucket that hopefully will regenerate is an S-1 OG Kush,but is just the cube and no bucket system, so you see the diff-
erence yield wise.....

 

[Dutchgrown]

How can you compare watts per square foot with tropical solar intensity? I was just brushing up on the inverse-square law after seeing that chart, and it looks like the intensity of the radiation of the sun is 1370 watts per square meter (127~ watts per square foot.) So I guess the sun can be/is measured in watts per square foot, but that chart says tropical intensity is 50wpsf.

A CMH, MH, and HPS of the same wattage will all give different lumens, lux, color temps, CRI, etc...

I am by no means saying closer isn't better, but I'm not sure that chart is a reliable reference. Do you know where it was originally posted?

This is a chart that was used on OG. I am sorry that I can't remember the member who originally posted it, but is a chart that was used extensively there.

There is a difference between radiant flux and luminous flux, for example, in radiometry, radiant flux or radiant power is the measure of the total power of electromagnetic radiation (including infrared, ultraviolet, and visible light). The power may be the total emitted from a source, or the total landing on a particular surface.....and luminous flux or luminous power is the measure of the perceived power of light. It differs from radiant flux, the measure of the total power of light emitted, in that luminous flux is adjusted to reflect the varying sensitivity of the human eye to different wavelengths of light.

Suffice to say, the chart I posted is (as it was on OG a bit debated) titled as light intensity when perhaps 'lumens' and/or "foot-candles" are the more accurate descriptive terms to apply to the chart.

There are four basic terms that are used to describe light and how it affects your plants. These terms are Lumen, Foot-Candle, Watt, and Lumens per Watt.

The term "Lumen" is the basic unit of light. If light were tangible and you could somehow grab it in your hands, the amount of light that you would be holding would be described as lumens. If you took that handful of light and stuffed it into a sandwich bag, or let it loose in a dark room, the amount of lumens would be the same. Lumens do not decrease or increase as that light you were holding condenses into a smaller space, or expands to fill a room. For that particular amount of light, regardless of the space it is filling, the amount of lumens remains constant.

The term "Foot Candle" measures the amount of light intensity, or how much light you manage to shine on a given area. The foot-candle is based on how many lumens of light you distribute on a given area, which are measured in square feet. To illustrate this, if you shone one lumen of light on one square foot of space, you have achieved one-foot candle of light. You can use this formula to measure the foot candle output of any bulb. What if you were operating a 1000 watt Metal Halide bulb over a garden which measured five feet by five feet? Well, first you need to find out the amount of lumens that your bulb produces. The packaging that your bulb came in should inform you of this. A 1000 watt metal halide bulb produces 120,000 limens. The next step you need to perform is to find out the square footage of your area. The area we are using for this example is five feet by five feet, so we know that our square footage is 25' (Length (5') x width (5') = square footage (25 square feet)). Now we have to divide the amount of lumens (120,000) by the amount of square feet (25). Doing this, we come up with 4,800 foot candles. The amount of light intensity or foot candles that you produce is the most important measurement of light to a hydroponic gardener because it tells you how much light is available for your plants to "drink".

The "Watt" is probably a term that you are already familiar with. It is a common term used to measure the amount of energy a bulb requires electrically.

"Lumens per Watt" is another term, like the Watt, which is applied strictly to artificial lighting, whereas Lumen and Foot Candle can also be applied to natural light. This term refers to how many lumens of light that a bulb can produce per watt of electrical usage. The higher the ratio, the more efficient and economical your lighting system will be. Ideally, you would like to create the desired amount of lumens with the lowest wattage cost possible.

The chart simply 'simplifies' by having taken into consideration various conversions necessary in order to arrive at a 'generalized' indication of how the light generated by various indoor lights increase or decrease efficiency in one sq ft based on distance (bottom of chart in inches).

Thanks!
DG

 

[dmt]

top the plant to have 4-8 branches, d

 

[Darth Fader]

I tried OG in a SOG an never again. It's a low yielder to start with, stretches a lot, and has thin weak branches. Not sure you could really make it grow nice fat single-style even with cfls or leds in veg. I'm thinking it would be great in scrog though. Either top it a lot, or just tie down the main cola & let all the side branches fill the main screen. Just my opinion. I'm a fairly new grower still though, so I defer to the masters. ;-)

 

[BongRipkenJR.]

If this is SFV Og kush then you will have to veg it out for awhile! Throw it into flowering at 2 and a half feet +. SFV can yield 2 pounds per 1000 watt light, but you have to train it and grow them big! What are you organic methods btw?

 

[Yes4Prop215]

ive been getting better and better yeilds running the SFV OG which is a pretty low yeilding strain...to the guy that said ditch OG kush for AK, yea OG will fetch more money in any market garunteed, some may think its boring but its the hot shit on the street right now.

the key to yeild in her is lots of topping, training, a nice 1month veg time, and experiance. you will get more and more each round, at least i have.


theres several different methods i tried....going with larger plants and bigger pots is not the way to grow OG kush. the yeild between my 3 gallon versus 15 gallon is not that much different, she yeilds fat on top but small on bottom. my best yeild so far is using around 20-25 3 gallon pots in a 4x4 area...under double 600s and a 1k, the nugs look similar under both get nice quarter oz top colas on each stalk..

so next run is gonna be about 20-25 3 gallons under a 1k...with about a 1 month veg.


also im experimenting with training them into V style like vineyards. i top the first few weeks, and then the plant produces 2-3 main shoots. i let those shoots grow a good 12 inches..then i train them down, and then each shoot goes from a single cola stalk to a 3-4 bud site stalk.

I cant wait to flower these, they are gonna be way more uniform, with higher anticipated yeild..

 

[señorsloth]

Good luck! These things are sooo lanky! I have them grown alongside chemdog ibl and ak47, the other two are bushy and well into budding at day 17 but the og are still stretching! Ive been lsting the crap out of them but they love to make long skinny branches with long internode spacing, they have barely shown any buds at all yet, i think they are going to take double the work of my other strains to keep a nice even canopy... there is a reason you cant get this strain easily in none med states, if everything sells for 60 a dub, be it unripe beasters or stinky sticky kush...who is going to waste time growing something that yeilds half of what many potent strains will? Personal growers mostly, and thats the idea, if you want a huge yeild you may want to switch strains, if you want top notch smoke, well then sometimes you have to settle, connesour strains are bred for potency, not yeild, or vigor, and can be very finicky and low yeilding because of it...

 

[Yes4Prop215]

^yea in non med states you can still get a high price for an easy to grow strain like AK-47...but out here the AK would fetch 500 bucks less than an OG pack, regardless of how frosty or nice it looked. dispensarys and buyers are all about namebrand strains right now..anything kush, chem, sour is what they want...but ESPECIALLY OG kush.....they cant get enough of it.

im determined to make SFV my cash cropper....im already at 1lb per 4x4 using 3 gallon pots, but with my 15 gallon pot 1k light im looking at less yeild....estimating 12-15 ounces...each 15galplant is only looking like a 2.5 oz plant compared to my 3 gallons which are all 1.5-2oz...but i also fucked up and should have stuffed an extra 15 under that 1k, so my yeild shold have been 1lb per light with 15s too..

still trying to get her streching down too....she always surprises me everytime. she just explodes in early flower the space between the nodes pushes 5-6 inches sometimes...

 

[tryn2getby]

Sorry i dont know how to make her yeild better.....im working on that now .... i will say that my SFV gal is offff the hook....what a smell....& frosty.....just covered in trich's .....

My best gal at 54 days

 

[subrob]

in my experience so far, the 4 or so og strains ive grown actually seem to do a little better with training then they do w topping(well, i top a lil also)....lots of veg time....dont water til they are dry, and patience...and practice...

 

[señorsloth]

i have been having better luck just sticking them on the outer edge of my grow, they are so tall and lanky that they still get decent light and dont block the others out much, they barely take up any space with their little golf balls of bud here and there...

 

[brotherindica]

in my experience so far, the 4 or so og strains ive grown actually seem to do a little better with training then they do w topping(well, i top a lil also)....lots of veg time....dont water til they are dry, and patience...and practice...

Definitely agree with you Subrob, well put!


I really love to super crop and tie down. Cages being preferred, but stakes work too. Keeps height very manageable, even bud formation/maturation, and nice yields.


A few examples

 

[Yes4Prop215]

just pulled 1-1.5 a light using 2-3 gallon pots and around 25-28 per tray....with little training, just topped a few times.....

my next batch ive been training like hell and im getting much more even canopy...hoping for a better yeild next run...still debating between cages and trellis..

 

[SELFHEMPLOYED]

I pull about 8 ounces per 5 gallon with OG. The secret is top early and often and put under a screen.

 

[simos]

Amen about the screen.

I've never been able to make it yield - I'm just happy when my calyxes chunk out and the smell & taste profiles are what they should be.

I did, however, once have the pleasure of touring a garden where the grower was pulling ~2 per 4x4 coco bed of Tahoe. I believe he was running 25 per bed and using two layers of hortonova trellis - one about a foot up and another around the 3' mark. The two layers provided lots of support and allowed for a VERY even, full canopy, which seems like the ticket to me...

 

[jammie]

my RP og 18's are in week 1 of 12/12 after vegging for 6wks. don't know what the yield will be. but judging by the branching and structure, i'd be very disappointed in anything less than 3-4 dried manicured z's per plant. https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=209442

 

[testoftime]

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=141353

7 1/2 lb's off of 3k with the pure kush, but not organic.....

I would love some input on growing techniques you used that you feel meant biggest differences in higher yielding ogs and crosses, (the pure kush is from greenhouse, an ;og pheno. What techniques helped you get such a great yeild?
Thanks

 

[testoftime]

I'm doing Scotts og atm, any tips always welcome. I've been doing this a long time but am always learning and my expirence with og crosses is low.