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The growing large plants, outdoors, thread...

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Dr. Purpur

Custom Haze crosses
Veteran
My Dads a chemist, and micro biologist (In his 80s). He always has used chemical ferts, and Ive used Organics for several years now. We had tomato competition every year for 2 decades. \
Mom said this. "Your fathers tomatos are larger then Yours, but Yours are far sweeter and taste better. So I grow organic because of Mom.
 
T

Trinity Gold

Sorry guys..That's Pro on the Premier Pro-Mix...

Going to be solarizing this week and amending shortly after. Awesometown.
 

Dr. Purpur

Custom Haze crosses
Veteran
I need to pull my plants out of the green house and put them back into full sun. I got wasted last light and lagged on getting it done. They are at 13 weeks now (budding)
 

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
We always do this in the tropics in between plantings in our veggie beds, but with black plastic. We figured that the black was more efficient at heating.

Couldn't hurt. I have 4 weeks till I have to amend. I'll hit em with Hygrozyme and then cover them. Not gonna skip the Mycostop. This is too easy not to employ as part of the program. Thanks.
 
T

Trinity Gold

Hey Nomaad, clear plastic in multiple trials is the winner. You should definitely skip the MycoStop till after you solarizie...hell even the Hygrozyme could wait till after too...I don't think that either can take soil temps of over 120 degrees...

I am going to do my beds just like the articles I linked said, rototill, even the surface, lay down the plastic.

I left my beds uncovered during the winter to let them leech, I used pro mix which is an inert base so I think solarizing then adding back all my biology would be the best way for me to go. Still up in the air on what I'm going to mix back in but I'm sure it'll work out well in the end no matter what.
 

Dr. Purpur

Custom Haze crosses
Veteran
Ive done this before. Long ago. The black plastic mostly heats up what is in contact with it. The clear plastic allows the rays to penetrate into the soil, then traps the heat, which accumulates.
 

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
Hey Nomaad, clear plastic in multiple trials is the winner. You should definitely skip the MycoStop till after you solarizie...hell even the Hygrozyme could wait till after too...I don't think that either can take soil temps of over 120 degrees...

The Mycostop would for sure be cooked out along with the pathogens. Dunno how an enzyme would fare up against the heat.
 
B

Butte_Creek

hey guys,
could anyone explain to me exactly what mycostop is, and what it does?
 
G

Ganja D

I'm not a fan of the mycostop. Using beneficial fungus,microbes,and bacteria should keep a plants immune system strong and healthy enough to fight off pathogens and soil borne pests.
What's up big plant growers! Let's do it!!
 
E

Eatatjoes

How's this weather treating you guys :D

Today was a good day for gardening, I got lots transplanted and in the coldframe. Peas are coming up and the gopher has already scouted them out. I'm gonna get that bastard this year.
 

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
I'm not a fan of the mycostop. Using beneficial fungus,microbes,and bacteria should keep a plants immune system strong and healthy enough to fight off pathogens and soil borne pests.

Why does Mycostop not fall directly under the category of "beneficial bacteria?"
 

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
Localhero: Refrigerated means that it is packed in such a fashion that if the back of the UPS truck hits 115 degrees, the microbes won't cook... like they do when you solarize/sterilize your soil. if your soil gets that hot with plants in it... you're fucked, right alongside the microlife of your soil.

Very interesting to read in the information TG posted that Mychorizae/Trichaderma survive the high heat of solarization.

I saw plants that were on the verge of succumbing to (what i believe to be) fusarium bounce back with the application of Mycostop. There is no way I am not going to cultivate this specific bacteria in the soil.

Would be easier if it didn't have to be reefered.
 
B

Butte_Creek

From what I red on planet natural it sounds like good stuff, just a beneficial bacteria.

So it basically works like any other beneficial fungi/bacteria, taking up all the space in the rhizosphere blocking pathogens from attacking your plants root...
An alternative to mycostop would just be a healthy populated rhizosphere through AACT's, correct?

I am definitely interested in this product though. Seems like a great beneficial bacteria to introduce into your arsenal of organic pest/pathogen control products. I was originally worried that the product might damage or attack other beneficial fungi etc, but that doesn't seem to be a problem.

Thank you for turning me onto this product Nomaad, and for the info Sticky.
 

yocinfluence

New member
What is the most ideal landscape fabric to buy? Saw the link for http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200381813_200381813?cm_ven=Aggregates&cm_cat=Google&cm_pla=Grounds%20Maintenance%3EWeed%20Control&cm_ite=375513?ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=375513 but I can't find a good picture to see what the fabric really looks like. I am looking for something as similar to smart pot fabric as possible. Thank you and sorry if I overlooked it somewhere. Your help is greatly appreciated. The thread has already been very helpful.
 
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