passive plant killer

[delta9nxs]

You're not the first grower I've heard that's tried to reset the diurnal clock and dance with the Rubisco.

I talked to one guy that had switched to a 32 hour photoperiod during flowering. 18 on / 14 off. And during the on period, from hour 9-10 the lamps would be turned off. And 8 on / 12 off during the late veg "pre-flower" stage.

Looking forward to your results.

Hi, zeke99!

I really don't see this working in flower because of the enforced dark phase. But I think there is a lot of room for light manipulation there that can be achieved using the quantum meter.

Some of the things that come to mind are running more lights and plants for the same electrical cost as what you do now or just reducing the bill, enhancing stealth. Either way the gram per watt ratio goes up. Just plain more efficient.

d9

 

[delta9nxs]

do you use a recycle timer for your lights?

hi, jj! i use one of these on my veg light as i had a 240v outlet close by.

http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-T104-208-277-Volt-Mechanical-Switch/dp/B000BQOX88

in the photo you can see on the yellow rotary dial a set of on-off trippers. they screw onto the yellow dial in the positions you want the device to turn on and off. i had been running 20-4 in veg with the off period beginning at 6 am and going back on at 10 am. it is a simple matter to add another set of trippers to the wheel. they can be ordered from intermatic. i added my second set to go off at 6 pm and back on at 10 pm. this gives me the 8 on-4 off-8 on-4 off each 24 hours.

 

[delta9nxs]

Running PPKs with a 2" gap.. I came to the same conclusion, yesterday, jj.
gap now 2.5 inches... lights come on in a half hour...
not useing the green light approach.

hey, scrog, i'm currently running 8 ozs every 60 min. in veg with a 3" air gap.

the following is to all:

i think there is a problem with trying to apply the same watering schedule that someone else uses.

there are huge differences in the ability of different brands of coco to conduct water.

for example the atami stuff is separated by particle size, graded, and then remixed for 30% air porosity.

some of the others, especially the really cheap ones, seem to be just ground up coco fiber with little thought being given to porosity and water holding capability.

there are probably brands at all points in between.

this makes it impossible to set the sub feed air gap or the pulse volume the same way as someone using a different brand.

i don't see the benefit of measuring plant reactions during lights off, although there could be some.

you know how we have discussed using the drip rate to measure rate of photosynthesis.

i think that if a plant were set up with it's own individual control bucket and then the drip rate observed over the lights on period you could get a really good idea of when the light has provided the max DLI in each cycle.

a word of caution to all about using my results or figures for your own grow.

my figures only apply to a bare 1k hortilux hps at approx mid life.

if you have anything else my figures are worthless to you except as examples.

everyone needs their own quantum meter to figure out their light application.

if you are in a legal situation where you are in contact with other growers regularly people could buy one and share it.

d9

 

[ImaginaryFriend]

Just saying 'hi' with a picture...

 

[delta9nxs]

nice pic! is that the "flo"?

 

[ImaginaryFriend]

Yeah...

She's the oldest and grew up in a super cold and unmanaged environment. Hell, she lived under t5s in a half liter container for like 100 days, watered whimsically and fed... we'll let's just say I kept her lean.

I LST'd the crap out of her when she was little, and she ended up structured with something like seven vertical leads. I had a very clever idea attached to that, but never ended up implementing it. Bought all the pieces an parts, and then got diverted into other projects, like watching movies and stuff...

Her flower structure is very different from her clone sister, who had the same crappy start but a bit more time in improved conditions (i.e. better light and better environmental controls) before moving to 12-12...

Hey, look!!! No fert burns this run!

So... remember me reporting the super hot conditions that I ran her previous? (100+ garden temps...) She was a pungent plant then, but keeping her in more conventional ranges (60 night, 75ish days) has really brought out her aromas.

 

[delta9nxs]

looks healthy. i think the hermie thing was triggered by the high temps. several research papers mentioned high temps causing physical changes in some species of plants.

i'm still not far enough along to report any results on my light regime, but i don't see any negative effects. these first few plants i'm just observing growth at weekly points anyway. i intend to set up a test plant bottom fed only with it's own control bucket so i can measure the drip rate. while it won't provide me with hard numbers it should give me a relative idea of the rate of photosynthesis at points during the photo period.

because of illness, for about 7 weeks i just cut and hung whole plants instead of wet trimming them like i always do. they got too dry to be trimmed for bud so i am turning it all into hash. i also had about 12 pounds of bone dry trim saved up. i just processed a kilo of trim and it's drying now. i'm going to press it into pucks like our member pipedream does. pics later.

thought i would include a photo for everyone's perusal. i'm setting up an area for some of these now. should be germinating the first in a few days.

d9

 

[ImaginaryFriend]

Something new!

As for the hermi thing... some genetics are reported to be unstable at higher temps. I think I read that BOG's bogbubble tosses male flowers as low as 80 degrees...

I'm really excited for the second plant in flower. She's approaching the direction I think I'm trying to head. Number three is totally unknown to this system, so she'll be a work in progress.

I have some cuts in my fridge from the line I've been trying to work with, and I'll give them one last chance to root alone with a few cuts of the new line to replace the void #1 will create when she's scheduled to be chopped in seventeen days. Even though she looks behind, I plan on moving forward to try and keep the rest of the room on schedule.

 

[daggerinmyback]

hmmmm a lot of hash in your near future... I wish I could trade you the buds I have for it lol

 

[SCROG McDuck]

G13F!

I'm betting tht gets run ASAP!
I'm concidering them.... An opinion I'll trust.
Will you document them here?

 

[delta9nxs]

the g13 is from dr greenthumb. there has been a lot of controversy surrounding this release. i have done business with him in the past and always got exactly what i ordered. on one of my orders none of the seeds would germinate so i called him and he immediately replaced them. i think he is telling the truth about the g13. he says he paid 25 g's for the cut and that it is the same cut dd has but that he didn't get it from dd. dd claims to have never given one to anyone but supposedly 7 copies got out. all very mysterious. we'll see.

d9

 

[SCROG McDuck]

the g13 is from dr greenthumb. there has been a lot of controversy surrounding this release. i have done business with him in the past and always got exactly what i ordered. on one of my orders none of the seeds would germinate so i called him and he immediately replaced them. i think he is telling the truth about the g13. he says he paid 25 g's for the cut and that it is the same cut dd has but that he didn't get it from dd. dd claims to have never given one to anyone but supposedly 7 copies got out. all very mysterious. we'll see.

d9

DRGT...I've grown his uk cheese.. still ave a few..
I was impressed.. and will probably up the money for G13..
The buds look great...

Screw Contoversy...I'm in for a pack.. I dont know when I
could get them going but I'd like to have the option in hand..

Good luck with them.. I cant wait to see..
and I'm sure you cant wait to get back into the batters box either.. GL..

 

[daggerinmyback]

Ive had similar dealings with people who are always called BSing but everything I ever got was good and exactly as I was told it would be, and honestly once there is a plant somewhere how can you control it... ? it'll get out and around but ultimately it should end up in a PPK

most definitely good luck on that

 

[delta9nxs]

puck it! puck it good!

 

[daggerinmyback]

I have those exact same scales lol! and id trade you as long as the puck came with! and you should use 190 everclear and the rest of the plants to make extracts/tincture too man dont waste anything lol

 

[delta9nxs]

hey, dagger! i use a 75 micron dry sieve after freezing and a bout in the blender, then a water wash to separate the trichs from the crap. all the plant fiber and plant wax floats. dry it and press it. no solvents or bubblebags or ice.

i've examined the leftover material on the sieve and there are almost no intact trichs on it.

i figure i have enough material for at least 50 7 gram pucks, maybe more. i just ran 1080 grams of trim but haven't pucked it yet.

it smokes so nice. a tiny piece alone provides muscle and joint pain relief after just a couple of hits.

d9

 

[daggerinmyback]

Where did you find this method? I would love to try this with some stuff I have laying around... lol any linkage to a step by step? I tried searching pipedream and got error message ...

75 micron sieve? where on earth do you people find this lol

 

[jjfoo]

I'm a bit confused on the NPK of Jacks + calcium nitrate

if the npk of jacks is 5 10 25 and calcium nitrate has 15% N
why do we reduce the calcium nitrate to by .67?

wouldn't we want equal strength on both to get

20 10 25 (15+5, 10, 25) or a ratio of near 3 1 4

What am I missing?

 

[delta9nxs]

hey, jj!

check this out. here you can see in the mixing instructions on the right, the elemental ppm for jack's at 130 oz's in 1000 gals is,

N 50 ppm
P 52 ppm
K 215 ppm

further down you see the instructions for the calcium nitrate have you adding 86 oz's calcinit to the same 1000 gals bringing the nitrogen up another 100 ppm to 150 ppm total.

this gives you a total elemental ppm of 150 ppm N, 52 ppm P, and 215 ppm K, or approx 314.

how are you doing with the mildew?

 

[jjfoo]

Still a bit confused on understanding this.

The pdf you attached says then end ing formula is 150 ppm N 52 ppm P and 215 ppm K right?

if you do the adjustmust for the P and K to account for the atomic weight of the oxides wouldn't you end up with an npk ratio of 15 12 26? If this where right, seems like I'd be a little low on N. What am I doing wrong?

In other words if I have element ppm of 150 52 215

the N would be 150
the P would be (52P * 2.3 for P2O5) 120
K would be (215K *1.2 for K2O) 258

for a NPK of 15 12 26 OR 3 2 5

if this is correct, this seems like it is a bit low on N and the K seems a bit high.