i used to use RO for my hydro setup, what a waste of time. all my buddies run right out of the tap which is what i do now. PPM is around 150 and PH is between 6.5 and 7.5 usually. oakland california water!
Is RO water necessary for indoor growing?
- Thread starter calstar
- Start date
http://www.purewaterclub.com/
50 gallon per day little ro filter for $58
they also got 100gpd for $75
50 gallon per day little ro filter for $58
they also got 100gpd for $75
W
wanderer
LOL, Well if RO is necessary for indoor grows then I've been doing the impossible for nearly 35 years! It all depends on what comes out of your tap. Mine is between 70- 120 depending on the season and works great, but if it was any more than 220-250 I would consider it.
canamasala
Member
Excellent thread
Excellent thread
No further questions...
My tap water are around the 700
I guess it's better to use the RO.
It was nice to read, thanks.
Excellent thread
No further questions...
My tap water are around the 700
I guess it's better to use the RO.
It was nice to read, thanks.
Most analysis reports dont have the info we're looking for like Ca and Mg hardness.
It's just the BS USEPA requires like bacteria, disinfectant, turbidity, and some contaminants like metals, pesticides and organics.
You can test your total hardness with some pool and spa test strips, but the resolution sucks and they are subjective.
There are some pool and spa titration kits for Ca and Mg hardness with 10 ppm resolution, but you'll spend $40-$60 on a kit.
I like using my tap (400uS, pH 6.9) cut with a little distilled. I dont have to add Ca and Mg and the water is buffered so adding pH up/down doesn't cause wild swings. RO and distilled water have low alkalinity, so the pH tends to drift.
My tap is stable as shit in my SWC bubbler.
Another thing is those reports are just a snapshot in time and may not reflect what coming out of the tap atm.
My county has three water sources depending on where you are located. One is a surface water body and two are from well fields. My water varies depending on what season it is because my source varies. It doesn't fluctuate much, but the hardness goes up in the summer because I'm getting more well water than surface water.
pH and EC meters are essential if you want to use tap, imho.
It's just the BS USEPA requires like bacteria, disinfectant, turbidity, and some contaminants like metals, pesticides and organics.
You can test your total hardness with some pool and spa test strips, but the resolution sucks and they are subjective.
There are some pool and spa titration kits for Ca and Mg hardness with 10 ppm resolution, but you'll spend $40-$60 on a kit.
I like using my tap (400uS, pH 6.9) cut with a little distilled. I dont have to add Ca and Mg and the water is buffered so adding pH up/down doesn't cause wild swings. RO and distilled water have low alkalinity, so the pH tends to drift.
My tap is stable as shit in my SWC bubbler.
Another thing is those reports are just a snapshot in time and may not reflect what coming out of the tap atm.
My county has three water sources depending on where you are located. One is a surface water body and two are from well fields. My water varies depending on what season it is because my source varies. It doesn't fluctuate much, but the hardness goes up in the summer because I'm getting more well water than surface water.
pH and EC meters are essential if you want to use tap, imho.
rangergord
Active member
It can take a while to begin to understand water chemistry. My well water is 500ppm + and I do not have any extra water to waste in a RO unit. Not only that but when you have calcium, magnesium and iron deposits that build up on faucet screens, showerheads and appliances your water would also completely clog your RO membranes in no time unless you put in a water softener before the RO unit. I much prefer to use rainwater and melted snow. Less money and hassle. No salt buildup, clawing of my plants or unstable ph with rainwater.
Bunz
Active member
Buy an r/o unit with a backflush valve and for $15 you've solved the problem you stated. I'd much rather start off with something pure and have control over what goes in my water.
yes chloromine is a beneficial nute killer.....kills all your organic goodies. dont ask me how i know. the only thing that will remove it is a charcoal filter.
rangergord
Active member
There is no way you can backflush heavycalcium deposits. You need a water softener. Water softeners remove calcium and magnesium and iron and replace it with salt. Salt easily backflushes and the membranes remain usable for much longer. RO is not needed unless it is difficult or impossible to collect rainwater. RO wastes water backflushing. Use RO if you wish but know that there are cheaper alternatives that are just as effective.
Bunz
Active member
I live in So Cal.....................we get less then 12" of rain a year, so collecting rainwater is out of the question.
I flush my membrane every 30 days and I've only had to change my membrane twice in 10 years. Still get a TDS reading of 3.
To each his own......................
Bunz
