No idea what variety they are, but they are all water hash.
-SamS
-SamS
Again... what are these?
Thomkal Vwalaa
Member
We have a winner, but I'll admit it was an easy call. Even my microplane technique cannot make the exact same consistency as dry sifting. Those are all Jack H, but different stages of drying. How do you feel about excluding the smaller particles (ie 0 to 40 micorns) for higher quality dry sift resin?
I always resift my dry sift resin to get rid of the particles to small to be resin heads. It feels like talcum powder and has no stickiness and only a tiny amount of THC, like maybe 1-2%.
I flush it down the toilet.
-SamS
I flush it down the toilet.
-SamS
Thanks for that insight, brother Sam!
Because most of our patients are poor, we extract everything below low sieve for oral meds.
Sad to say, because us'n local wannabees are trying to at least pay rapt attention, we still extract anything above and below our optimum cut, for inclusion in our admix.
To my discredit, despite my best efforts to evolve to a sophisticate, I still suffer from boetian tastes, and am toooo, unsophisticated to appreciate some of the nuances.
How much can ya'll illumaniti's share with us as, without taking away from your commercial interests, which I acknowledge and salute for what they are?
Any thoughts?
ronnie redeyes
New member
dang, thats some potent looking stuff... thanks for posting up the pics!
Thomkal Vwalaa
Member
Thanks. I even got in an argument with bubbleman about his 25 micron bag... am I mistaken that 25 to 45 micron particles are too small to be mature trichome heads?
Agreed on the talcum powder, that's a great comparison.
It all depends on the variety and how grown, tiny plants have smaller resin, and a lot of other factors contribute to resin head size, the most important being the variety, and how grown.
-SamS
-SamS
Thomkal Vwalaa
Member
I have never heard this before. Are you saying growing giant bushes in 25 gallon pots (what I jokingly call Oregon mmj style) should yield larger trichomes than growing scrog tiny-pots high plant count? Because if so... you that's incredible.
Real real small plants yield smaller resin then 6 footers with good roots. Of the same clone. Cold also makes smaller resin.
-SamS
-SamS
hmm, coke is en extraction, but hash is more a separation. And once you have the coke ready, it's ready, no other chemical reaction involved than those needed to extract & precipitate the alcaloid.
Again, curing reveals the hash from the resin.
Absolutely none taken ! My indoor growin space is only 0.36sq meter, so I do second sieves eheh...
I am not talking about THC or any other cannabinoids, but rather non-cannabinoid terpenes which ARE the aromatic compounds. THC is flavourless, is that right Sam ?
Very true ! I know for instance that I am no big fan of western ice/water/bubble hash made from indoor grown polyhybrids, and you know why ? Because they have no story to tell. An Himalayan charas, a Mazari gardah or a Chitrali charas carries along the selection & breeding work of generations, it carries the mountains or oasis the where the plant grew, it carries the traditional local way to prepare the end product, it carries the story of the people who have worked the plant and resin, it carries History. The purest & strongest hash made from, say, some indoor grow jack herer, has no story to tell, it's empty. When I smoke a good Parvati jungli charas, I smoke the whole parvati valley !
I have scored a nice chunk of blond lebanese hash last week, and since have been smoking the bekaa plaine everyday !
The other thing which gets me high, or stone, is flavour (maybe as much as cannabinoids). This is what hit me the very first time I took a puff on a hash joint, the flavour, and since have been after that first. I love to smoke hash joint outdoor in freezing temps, the flavours get stronger and I can feel it in my whole body (I know, it sounds weird...). Terpenes in the bloodstream are yummy & groovy !
I am not really expert with the structure of the resin gland, BUT, I've done my share of hand pressing with very very clean Afghani gardah and in the process the resin gland are broken, and this is when the flavours get stronger, when the aromatic compounds in the resin gland react with oxygen and heat.
I think there's more on the inside than on the outside.
How do you smoke your resin ? powder form, or do you press it ? Try taking a small lump of powder and smell it, then handpress it and smell again. The handpressed should have notably stronger perfume.
eheh, good for you !
Sam's very true indeed. I can't say about the difference of resin gland compared with plant's size, BUT, for instance, last year I grew indoor some Lebanese sativa landrace. In the different reports I had read before, it looked like a very nice strain, quite resinous, tasty & potent. So I grew mine, and ended up with plants showing a very low resin production, with very very small resin gland, on the top of very short trichome stalks. I had made a mistake, giving same feeding & watering as my commercial hybrids, when this strain requires little feeding and little watering. I tried again last summer, this time giving less food and water and the difference was obvious. More resin, bigger glands, stronger flavour.
Different varieties require different treatments to reach their full potential. Probably less and less as a lot of standardization is going on around, but it's still pretty valuable for many landrace sativas.
Irie !
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Thomkal Vwalaa
Member
was that a shot at my hash? lol and "good show" if it was.
Now this is a whole thread in itself. I smoke resin many ways. I have three glass attachments that are for smoking hash. I usually just put a bunch on top of some flowers. I generally smoke it "powdered" because it burns better, melts the same, and tastes the same. I find pressing reduces flavor when smoking but increases scent to the nose. I have done tons of pressing and curing. I have multiple hashes that are over a year old right now. IMO they are not that different compared to a few weeks of curing.
Oh, and I find smoking hash to be a delicate art. You can't light it on fire really, it has to melt and vaporize first.
C
Chamba
My indoor growin space is only 0.36sq meter, so I do second sieves eheh...
Mriko. lol. you're garden is bigger than mine (and it's on my balcony)
I always try to sift every resin gland off the material and try to find a balance between getting large yields along with decent quality. I used to always do two runs, the first one for quality and the second for quantity, but now do one, long sift.
I found the problem with doing two runs was when compared to the first run, the second run resin hardly got me high and I had trouble holding together if pressed (if I'm going to friends place, I sometimes first press it into a solid, but usually smoke it unpressed at home, when I have it). ...but with one long run that separates almost all of the resin glands off the material, then resifted, will easily form into a putty if pressed in my palm and the high is good, not as good as a gentle first run that aims to capture just the first 25% of trichomes,but still good enough.
40 micron for re-sifting was mentioned above, I'd like to learn more about fine sifting.
I find that once you go finer than 70 micron, the rate that the fine contaminants pass through the mesh is extremely slow with simple agitation or vibration alone, but a combination of vibration and carding works a bit faster, but still painfully slow ( I haven't tried the "lift and drop" double mesh bag method mentioned in Clarke's "Hashish!" or with a vacuum cleaner used under the screen to suck contaminants through a 50 micron mesh, leaving the trichomes on top). please tell us your techniques for re-sifting your dry sifted resin with 40 or 50 micron meshes.
Mriko. lol. you're garden is bigger than mine (and it's on my balcony)
I always try to sift every resin gland off the material and try to find a balance between getting large yields along with decent quality. I used to always do two runs, the first one for quality and the second for quantity, but now do one, long sift.
I found the problem with doing two runs was when compared to the first run, the second run resin hardly got me high and I had trouble holding together if pressed (if I'm going to friends place, I sometimes first press it into a solid, but usually smoke it unpressed at home, when I have it). ...but with one long run that separates almost all of the resin glands off the material, then resifted, will easily form into a putty if pressed in my palm and the high is good, not as good as a gentle first run that aims to capture just the first 25% of trichomes,but still good enough.
40 micron for re-sifting was mentioned above, I'd like to learn more about fine sifting.
I find that once you go finer than 70 micron, the rate that the fine contaminants pass through the mesh is extremely slow with simple agitation or vibration alone, but a combination of vibration and carding works a bit faster, but still painfully slow ( I haven't tried the "lift and drop" double mesh bag method mentioned in Clarke's "Hashish!" or with a vacuum cleaner used under the screen to suck contaminants through a 50 micron mesh, leaving the trichomes on top). please tell us your techniques for re-sifting your dry sifted resin with 40 or 50 micron meshes.
eheh, no, I wasn't aiming specifically at your hash. But since you had mentionned this strain it's just the first that came to my mind. I'm talking only about commercial hybrids here, a Thai or Chitrali landrace for example carries its land and history in its genetics and lots of stories to tell has, even if grown away from home.
Alas, due to the amount of material i work with, I am not able to do much comparison between strains and optimum curing time & conditions (lots of my observation were done "on-field", in Pakistan or India). But to find no difference between a few weeks old and one year old resin/hash, well, I just don't understand... how can that be ?
Yes it is ! And different forms require different treatment.
Can't light it on fire... hmmm...really ?
Have a look at these
First is charas from Mazar e Sharif, second from Shebarghan. I see too often joint-smoking people preparing this kind of material by shaping a string of hash which is rolled as is. This is the worst possible way to smoke this kind of gooey stuff, very very wastefull, effect and flavour wise.
Actually, the best way is to actually BURN the hash. Not heat it, burn it (well, not to ashes, eheh...)
Maybe you don't smoke joints with tobacco, but here is how it works.
- Get a cig and toast it, then crumble the tobacco to a fine/medium grain (not to fine otherwise joint will get clogged), then make a bed of it, which you dispose in a mixing bowl. Keep about a quarter of it out of the bowl.
- Take the quantity you need for a joint and shape it into a small disc, which you stick on a match (not the head of course, eheh). When firmly in place, you just light up the hash disc and let it burn until it turns into a boiling drop of resin, then blow the flame. MAKE SURE that you do it above the toasted & crumbled tobacco so the resin drop falls on the tobacco, and not in your hand for example (most painfull burnt I ever experienced, mad mad mad !).
- Quickly cover the hot resin with the tobacco you had put aside, then mix thoroughly until you get an homogenous mix, with all bits of tobacco coated with resin. Skin up, light up and, oh boy, flavours hit like a train, and so does the effect. It's simply fantastic.
Still, this tech is not to be used will all kind of gooey stuff. I tried once with some Moroccan caramello, but the hash didn't reacted properly to the flame. Afghani, Pakistani and some Himalayan charas are ok. Must be done with clean, quality material.
Oh, and this kind of joint must be smoked right away, as soon as it is ready, otherwise all the "pre-vaporized" goodies will be gone.
Oh wow, that is small indeed !
Maybe your first sieving is too long and lets not enough goodies for the second one ? Second sievings of mine have no problem holding together. Did try once with a third, and the result was low quality, unable to stick together, low effect, not worth it.
Irie !
C
Chamba
Maybe your first sieving is too long and lets not enough goodies for the second one ? Second sievings of mine have no problem holding together. Did try once with a third, and the result was low quality, unable to stick together, low effect, not worth it.
I hear you, but with the intention of stripping a maximum of the resin heads off the material (so when checked with a magnifying glass, there are very few resin heads remaining), then even with some re-sifting of the sift, there is still lots of contaminant in with the resin heads...so even if I only do a short first run, which is mostly resin heads, the second run stuff (which I attempt to strip all the remaining 70%~80% of the resin that's on the material) is much weaker and drier than the first, so to me it's unsatisfactory......so now I do it all in one run, I like what I get, the quality is even, the quantity is maxed, it's less work (not that it's a chore, it's a pleasure) and it will form into a solid with less than 15 or 20 seconds of thumb into palm twisting, folding and pushing. If even the first run is separates only 10% or 15% of the resin, the remaining resin, due to the amount of debris in there, requires heat and pressure to form into a solid and the potency is way below the first run.
I wish I had too much starting material, then I would do very gentle runs for personal use, aiming for less than 10% of the resin, so a small amount of material would be agitated on the screen for 10 or 20 seconds, that's a, then re-sifted over finer meshes....but until then, I'll keep going for maximum yield with acceptable levels of potency.
is it just me or does using a butane lighter for heating up hash for pressing into a solid or for pre-smoking adds a shitty petro-chemical taint to the hash?
I hear you, but with the intention of stripping a maximum of the resin heads off the material (so when checked with a magnifying glass, there are very few resin heads remaining), then even with some re-sifting of the sift, there is still lots of contaminant in with the resin heads...so even if I only do a short first run, which is mostly resin heads, the second run stuff (which I attempt to strip all the remaining 70%~80% of the resin that's on the material) is much weaker and drier than the first, so to me it's unsatisfactory......so now I do it all in one run, I like what I get, the quality is even, the quantity is maxed, it's less work (not that it's a chore, it's a pleasure) and it will form into a solid with less than 15 or 20 seconds of thumb into palm twisting, folding and pushing. If even the first run is separates only 10% or 15% of the resin, the remaining resin, due to the amount of debris in there, requires heat and pressure to form into a solid and the potency is way below the first run.
I wish I had too much starting material, then I would do very gentle runs for personal use, aiming for less than 10% of the resin, so a small amount of material would be agitated on the screen for 10 or 20 seconds, that's a, then re-sifted over finer meshes....but until then, I'll keep going for maximum yield with acceptable levels of potency.
is it just me or does using a butane lighter for heating up hash for pressing into a solid or for pre-smoking adds a shitty petro-chemical taint to the hash?
Two thoughts bro, but mostly for the rest of the folks!
I only do secondary sieving for bragging rights too, because my boetian tastes loves everything under 130 micron, including the small amount of green sieving only the first 10% by weight.
No question that it all sticks together in my 12,000 psi press, but I only do so by request from others, because I prefer it loose, where it offers the most splendid array of flavors. At 12,000 psi, I can compress ground fan leaves into a particle board puck.
It actually takes way less pressure to make a cold puck out of kif, and even extrudes around the die ram, before reaching that level of compression,
As far as the butane ligher, I do my best to at first only wave the lighter above the sieve, so as to get the most flavorable hits, followed by burning what's left.
Sadly, or maybe fortuitiously, my tastes are too unrefined to appreciate the added flavor of the butane. What do you prefer to light it off with instead brother Chamba?
C
Chamba
As far as the butane ligher, I do my best to at first only wave the lighter above the sieve, so as to get the most flavorable hits, followed by burning what's left.
Sadly, or maybe fortuitiously, my tastes are too unrefined to appreciate the added flavor of the butane. What do you prefer to light it off with instead brother Chamba?
I use a Bic lighter for lighting pipes too, but what I meant to say was I'm against the use of butane flames waved over dry sift in my palm when half pressed to heat it up so it helps it forms into a solid...and to a lesser extent, heating up hash prior to breaking it up when making bud and hash jays.
Happy Hashing!
Sadly, or maybe fortuitiously, my tastes are too unrefined to appreciate the added flavor of the butane. What do you prefer to light it off with instead brother Chamba?
I use a Bic lighter for lighting pipes too, but what I meant to say was I'm against the use of butane flames waved over dry sift in my palm when half pressed to heat it up so it helps it forms into a solid...and to a lesser extent, heating up hash prior to breaking it up when making bud and hash jays.
Happy Hashing!
C
Chamba
....... because my boetian tastes loves everything under 130 micron....
Have you tried isolating the resin between a narrow size range, for example between 110 and 90 micron or between 80 and 90 micron or whichever narrow size range of meshes to trap the trichomes that gives the best high?....I think this is where dry sifting is headed, well at least with those who appreciate the finest quality hash, have lots of starting material or lots of money to burn.
I can only dream of having a few "spare" kilos of quality bud sitting around that I could gently sift between a narrow size range of meshes and aim for extreme purity and not giving two hoots about the yield which might be as little as only 20 grams per kg.
The good part about isolating trichomes between a narrow size range at a relatively large mesh size opening is that the contaminant that is mixed in with the resin in between eg the 90 and 110 micron meshes is ten times easier to separate than it is when trying to clean up dry sift over a 50, 60 or even 70 micron mesh...iow it's much easier and faster to attain extremely high purity.
and the other fact is that at this narrow range of resin diameter size, the high is different, in a good way, and or better than the same resin that contains all the range of trichomes eg from 60 ~ 110 micron.
Happy Hashing!
Have you tried isolating the resin between a narrow size range, for example between 110 and 90 micron or between 80 and 90 micron or whichever narrow size range of meshes to trap the trichomes that gives the best high?....I think this is where dry sifting is headed, well at least with those who appreciate the finest quality hash, have lots of starting material or lots of money to burn.
I can only dream of having a few "spare" kilos of quality bud sitting around that I could gently sift between a narrow size range of meshes and aim for extreme purity and not giving two hoots about the yield which might be as little as only 20 grams per kg.
The good part about isolating trichomes between a narrow size range at a relatively large mesh size opening is that the contaminant that is mixed in with the resin in between eg the 90 and 110 micron meshes is ten times easier to separate than it is when trying to clean up dry sift over a 50, 60 or even 70 micron mesh...iow it's much easier and faster to attain extremely high purity.
and the other fact is that at this narrow range of resin diameter size, the high is different, in a good way, and or better than the same resin that contains all the range of trichomes eg from 60 ~ 110 micron.
Happy Hashing!
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Please explain to me the question of terminology, the word "Charas" here,First is charas from Mazar e Sharif,
does it mean that the product is extracted by hand friction or "charas" has another meaning?
IMO Its structure looks like a hash of dry sieving.
Thomkal Vwalaa
Member
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