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330w Pl-l aero scrog.
- Thread starter superpedro
- Start date
hazydreams
Active member
Super Pedro:
As you are the only person i know of using Co2 in a micro environment i would like to pick your brain on the subject if you don't mind.
how did you quantify whats being used by the plant and how much to replenish it by.. This is what i always found as the most important piece of information. I know you use an air tight box under water to meter the amount to flood the room with, but the needle valve that you use to "top it off" in between flooding cycles is what interests me most. How do you measure the level and know the precise amount in there with out say a sentinel or some type of Co2 PPM instrument?
As you are the only person i know of using Co2 in a micro environment i would like to pick your brain on the subject if you don't mind.
how did you quantify whats being used by the plant and how much to replenish it by.. This is what i always found as the most important piece of information. I know you use an air tight box under water to meter the amount to flood the room with, but the needle valve that you use to "top it off" in between flooding cycles is what interests me most. How do you measure the level and know the precise amount in there with out say a sentinel or some type of Co2 PPM instrument?
Well. I have no way of doing measurements as I grow along. I'd love that, but I can't bring my self to use 1000$+ on my micro cab(GF agrees on that
). But I'm hoping to buy a cheap monitor one day.When I did my first grow in the aero system, I borrowed a measuring device from work, at took reading at the intense early flowering.
Basically, what I did was to time how fast the plants were at bringing the CO2 level down from 1500 to 1300 ppm. Then I did a calculation of the needed flow rate to counter that.
By using the "submersed upside-down measuring cup" technique
I adjusted the flow, monitored a full cycle, and made sure the level dropped a little bit in between the dump. So they receive to much when they are small, and to little when they are big - but only by a few hundred ppm's.Anyway- Helping the Calvin cycle with access to more CO2 isn't the only gain from using it.
I can control my temp and Rh to perfection. A lot of people don't realize how important optimal climate is for the metabolism and the yield of the grow.
Root update
No news really. Using a biofilter is just sooooo much better than any additive. View through the overflow access lid.
From down below, using my cellphone. I think the netpot is done.
Cheers
hazydreams
Active member
Well. I have no way of doing measurements as I grow along. I'd love that, but I can't bring my self to use 1000$+ on my micro cab(GF agrees on that
When I did my first grow in the aero system, I borrowed a measuring device from work, at took reading at the intense early flowering.
Basically, what I did was to time how fast the plants were at bringing the CO2 level down from 1500 to 1300 ppm. Then I did a calculation of the needed flow rate to counter that.
By using the "submersed upside-down measuring cup" technique
Anyway- Helping the Calvin cycle with access to more CO2 isn't the only gain from using it.
I can control my temp and Rh to perfection. A lot of people don't realize how important optimal climate is for the metabolism and the yield of the grow.
Cheers
I figured you would of had to use some type of meter to double check the levels and limits in order to dial it in.
i find it very hard to swallow that the co2 injection companies just put a number on the amount of transpiration a plant needs and then just add x amount to replenish it. it just does not take into account contributing variables, such as leaks let alone how efficiently the plants are being grown which effects how well they can transpire.
you have pretty much confirmed what i suspected. my wife doesn't think that spending the money on the CHHC 4 is well spent, but she has condoned it for the advancement of my hobby. its a few months away. but its gonna happen.
Edit: BTW the root porn is ridiculous!!!!!! props man and as always Rep + (you must spread rep around.... yada yada yada)
Sounds sweet.
A few pics from yesterday:
A look deep into the canopy:
Cheers
A few pics from yesterday:
A look deep into the canopy:
Cheers
dammmm dude so sparkly looking healthy too. wee hoo. thats gunna be some really sweet dank come harvest time. and wat day flower r they?
Ludo
Member
Hey there SuperP.
Wow.......just in time for the new years fireworks!!!!!!!
You seem to have a firm grasp on these ladies.......they look stellar...!!!
Just switched my 'small' bed to 12/12 the other day.....Cindy is going to show of her sparkling coat of niceness.........hehe
good karma........and a happy new year
Wow.......just in time for the new years fireworks!!!!!!!
You seem to have a firm grasp on these ladies.......they look stellar...!!!
Just switched my 'small' bed to 12/12 the other day.....Cindy is going to show of her sparkling coat of niceness.........hehe
good karma........and a happy new year
Watch your fingers
N
nizzle
Lækkert !. spændt på at se dem færdige
kunne være man skulle se og få prøvet den c99 nu har man jo hørt så meget godt om den,
kunne være man skulle se og få prøvet den c99 nu har man jo hørt så meget godt om den,
, & thanks for the in deepht explanation 
this is a very impressive project! I bet you would never get a root disease in a million years with a suitable biofilter but its still a common problem for others. I wonder if any commercial operations like the type that grow the most disgusting tasteless (possibly harmful?) tomatoes still rely chemical fungicides etc. Right, permission to bore you're socks off please!
Working on the ethos that nature is best, I would so like to find out if natural fertilisers could be used in a system like this. I am so unqualified to analyse the effect of chemical fertilisers in any scientific way! But it will kill certain species of good bacteria and fungi and deplete others. Its proven chelated salts give great yields but I got a sneeking suspicion if you gave the root bacteria and fungi the full responsiblity of breaking down nutrients and fixing nitrogen from the air - allowing them to work to natures design in full sybiosis with the plant, in a super oxygenated environment, you could end up with a very special product ( maybe better yield, certainly better taste and certainly improving you're spirituality - providing it worked of couse, HAHA!).
These nutrients would have to be in a liquid form obviously and at one time before I stopped growing I was looking at using a combination of bokashi juice and fermented urine - two things I use alot to grow food. You will be pleased to know both smell quite lovely!
Bokashi juice is the liquid that drains away from organic matter that has been fermented in an anaerobic environment by types of lactobaccilii. It is highly acidic but packed full of nutrients and is teeming with extremely benificial bacteria. The process of extracting the nutrients by fermentation also make them more accessible to the plant. It is called bokashi because thats the popular name given to a bucket system for kitchen food scraps (comes with a handy little tap for draining the liquid that just keeps on giving)- and I hyphothesise that if you needed more potassium for flowering then add more banaskins for example. I have grown basil very sucessfully in a nutrient devoid peat based compost on diluted bokashi juice alone which is very encouraging. What stuck me was how dark green, thick and waxy the leaves were. Oh and fermented urine is amazing stuff! I had the tastiest bumper crop of tomatoes last year, just don't let anyone catch you pissing into a bottle. I love how both ingredients are both FREE and guaranteed NON-TOXIC.
One day I will try this myself maybe for an aeroponic tomato grow but I gotta say I will have to read your setup very carefully as aero looks very complicated to me! You got the system to do it and must be the experimental type to have built that marvelous system
Working on the ethos that nature is best, I would so like to find out if natural fertilisers could be used in a system like this. I am so unqualified to analyse the effect of chemical fertilisers in any scientific way! But it will kill certain species of good bacteria and fungi and deplete others. Its proven chelated salts give great yields but I got a sneeking suspicion if you gave the root bacteria and fungi the full responsiblity of breaking down nutrients and fixing nitrogen from the air - allowing them to work to natures design in full sybiosis with the plant, in a super oxygenated environment, you could end up with a very special product ( maybe better yield, certainly better taste and certainly improving you're spirituality - providing it worked of couse, HAHA!).
These nutrients would have to be in a liquid form obviously and at one time before I stopped growing I was looking at using a combination of bokashi juice and fermented urine - two things I use alot to grow food. You will be pleased to know both smell quite lovely!
Bokashi juice is the liquid that drains away from organic matter that has been fermented in an anaerobic environment by types of lactobaccilii. It is highly acidic but packed full of nutrients and is teeming with extremely benificial bacteria. The process of extracting the nutrients by fermentation also make them more accessible to the plant. It is called bokashi because thats the popular name given to a bucket system for kitchen food scraps (comes with a handy little tap for draining the liquid that just keeps on giving)- and I hyphothesise that if you needed more potassium for flowering then add more banaskins for example. I have grown basil very sucessfully in a nutrient devoid peat based compost on diluted bokashi juice alone which is very encouraging. What stuck me was how dark green, thick and waxy the leaves were. Oh and fermented urine is amazing stuff! I had the tastiest bumper crop of tomatoes last year, just don't let anyone catch you pissing into a bottle. I love how both ingredients are both FREE and guaranteed NON-TOXIC.
One day I will try this myself maybe for an aeroponic tomato grow but I gotta say I will have to read your setup very carefully as aero looks very complicated to me! You got the system to do it and must be the experimental type to have built that marvelous system
http://www.maximumyield.com/article_sh_db.php?articleID=348
Some reading that has kept me thinking about bioponics as it is going to be my next project too. Superpedro is the one who has influenced me for it, i thank you for that!
I just love the design of your cabinet but unfortunately i might not be able to do any similar in my flat as i have rented mine, sorry to say. Would love to be able to! So i have been designing a quite modest model of my own for bioponics growing that i´ll post when ready or so.
Is that article still valid information about bioponics as the pale color of the leaves keeps me wondering about the whole thing or am i missing some information because your babies leaves don´t seem to be pale at all? I want to have the darkest leaves as possible.. you know, heh!
Edit: the color difference is only from the choice of nutrients as you don´t seem to use organics? ok.
Edit: do you know where can i buy that BVB sublime you mentioned as i´d like to test that too? On that company´s website they offer it for the companies only...
Some reading that has kept me thinking about bioponics as it is going to be my next project too. Superpedro is the one who has influenced me for it, i thank you for that!
I just love the design of your cabinet but unfortunately i might not be able to do any similar in my flat as i have rented mine, sorry to say. Would love to be able to! So i have been designing a quite modest model of my own for bioponics growing that i´ll post when ready or so.
Is that article still valid information about bioponics as the pale color of the leaves keeps me wondering about the whole thing or am i missing some information because your babies leaves don´t seem to be pale at all? I want to have the darkest leaves as possible.. you know, heh!
Edit: the color difference is only from the choice of nutrients as you don´t seem to use organics? ok.
Edit: do you know where can i buy that BVB sublime you mentioned as i´d like to test that too? On that company´s website they offer it for the companies only...
SuperPedro.
You are the man.
Is that just 2 clones filling out that screen?
Impressive.
You are the man.
Is that just 2 clones filling out that screen?
Impressive.
Thanks my friends. Hope you enjoyed newyear!!
I'll get some pictures, and update the growthread later.
Hi there D.I.try.
First, thanks for the nice comments.
I have to answer back to some of the thing you wrote, please don't get offended. I'll try to explain my standpoints.
You wrote: this is a very impressive project! I bet you would never get a root disease in a million years with a suitable biofilter but its still a common problem for others. I wonder if any commercial operations like the type that grow the most disgusting tasteless (possibly harmful?) tomatoes still rely chemical fungicides etc. Right, permission to bore you're socks off please!
Permission granted.
I am a greenhouse gardener by profession, and I don’t know of any harmful tomatoes?
It is correct the rockwool media they use can go anaerobic, but BVB sublime, the new “cubes” should be very good.
The tasteless tomatoes have nothing to do with fert, but the fact tomatoes are pushed to yield 40-50kg m2 in a standard semi modern greenhouse. You lose flavor from forcing fast development in fruit and vegetables. When breeding tomatoes they try to make strains with a high amount of brixtal (water soluble sugar).
They do get better and better at growing tasting tomatoes in high yields IMO.
Food production with synthetic fertilizers isn’t dangerous, it’s the exact same elements we feed the plants.
The scary pictures the organic fanatics try to paint are a big lie, and take their examples from the pesticide usage from the 80’s.
You use a lot of energy in a greenhouse. We use 3000+ 400w hps lamps in total where I work, just to give you an idea of the scale of things. Then try to imagine how much energy it takes to heat up that space to a minimum of 20-25 degrees Celsius when it’s -10C outside. Imagine the CO2 emission.
The ecology argument for not growing organic is, the time you save and the yield you make saves a lot more energy than you use creating and cleaning the natural salts you use for synthetic fertilizers.
Some organic people use the word chemical nutrients, because they like the negative sound of the word I guess. When the word chemical is normally used, it’s about elements that are uncommon in our natural environment. It’s normally called synthetic or artificial nutrients, because the mix is tailor made.
Pesticides, fungicides and other chemical agents are being banned as soon as they find a safer alternative. That’s why today’s agents are but a shadow of the stuff used 20 years ago. Furthermore they are heavily taxed.
Some countries are not that good at controlling it – I know. Wash whatever you buy from Spain
I’m talking about modern production here. We use less and less retarding agents in flowers, since it’s much cheaper to use a combined strategy involving mechanical stress, a tight watering strategy, circadian rhythm based changes in light and temperature.
We don’t use pesticides at all, not many do anymore. Beneficial insects and bacteria aren’t taxed and can easily compete with the weaker pesticides available today.
Fungicides are still used, but strategy in feeding and improved climate control as reduced it a lot. The new technique in tomatoes is uv-c light, which is completely safe; I believe it can be found in any culture that deals with fungi problems within the next years.
BTW: The new hydro grow system they use for lettuce, does use bacteria to get rid of organic waste.
Biofilter prevents rot, mold, nutrient buildups - not disease unfortunately.
You wrote: Working on the ethos that nature is best, I would so like to find out if natural fertilisers could be used in a system like this. I am so unqualified to analyse the effect of chemical fertilisers in any scientific way! But it will kill certain species of good bacteria and fungi and deplete others. Its proven chelated salts give great yields but I got a sneeking suspicion if you gave the root bacteria and fungi the full responsiblity of breaking down nutrients and fixing nitrogen from the air - allowing them to work to natures design in full sybiosis with the plant, in a super oxygenated environment, you could end up with a very special product ( maybe better yield, certainly better taste and certainly improving you're spirituality - providing it worked of couse, HAHA!).
Nature is best? I honestly don’t know how to respond to that.
Since the sun generates the energy, creates the rain and wind, and in the big perspective it drives every bio process - removing it from the ecuation makes the word natural pointless in regards to indoor growing with artificial light IMO.
I don't want to do what nature does, I want to beat it into submission using some of it's own weapons.
What is the difference between two identical NH4 ions, one fixated from the nitrogen in the air by use of an energy source, and one from the decay of organic matter?
Nature is abundant of both harmful and beneficial biology; there is no open invitation into my cab.
We have the choice of applying a nitrogen fixating bacteria culture at my work. It is used if we grow stuff like miniature Christmas trees, but not in the production process, since N is one of the easiest thing to feed the plant, it would be counterproductive using a bacteria living of plant sugar.
The culture would be established just before the product leaves the greenhouse, in oder to make the rootbound tree remain green without fertilizer for the customer.
You wrote: These nutrients would have to be in a liquid form obviously and at one time before I stopped growing I was looking at using a combination of bokashi juice and fermented urine - two things I use alot to grow food. You will be pleased to know both smell quite lovely!
Bokashi juice is the liquid that drains away from organic matter that has been fermented in an anaerobic environment by types of lactobaccilii. It is highly acidic but packed full of nutrients and is teeming with extremely benificial bacteria. The process of extracting the nutrients by fermentation also make them more accessible to the plant. It is called bokashi because thats the popular name given to a bucket system for kitchen food scraps (comes with a handy little tap for draining the liquid that just keeps on giving)- and I hyphothesise that if you needed more potassium for flowering then add more banaskins for example. I have grown basil very sucessfully in a nutrient devoid peat based compost on diluted bokashi juice alone which is very encouraging. What stuck me was how dark green, thick and waxy the leaves were. Oh and fermented urine is amazing stuff! I had the tastiest bumper crop of tomatoes last year, just don't let anyone catch you pissing into a
bottle. I love how both ingredients are both FREE and guaranteed NON-TOXIC.
I don’t know what bokashi juice is besides what you just wrote.
It could sound like you have misunderstood the basic advantage of running hydro. We give the roots extra oxygen, the oxygen is then used as a source of energy for the metabolism.
You get faster growth because there is a surplus of energy to convert the easy soluble synthetic fertilizers into whatever form the plant want to use it. No gain from helping the plant in that department.
Its nice that we dont need mycorrhiza to enlage the surface of root cells in hydro, since plants dont need to "dig" for P and Z. We use the stored starch for growth instead of sharing.
Are you sure your own urine is guaranteed non toxic? The bladder is where the body gets rid of harmfull compounds besides urea you know.
The only urea I use is the cleaned crystallized urea (made from animal urine I believe – but called chem by some ) And I would never use urea in my system. Urea and enzymes from my filter would make my NH4 level explode, since the enzymes does particular well in breaking down urea.
(don’t use it in soil either, the NH4 level does the same thing. But used for foliar feeding, nothing comes close to urea – uptake happens so fast it’s almost the green “spray can”.)
Guess the fermentation makes it safe for plants, but it is not really of any interest in my version of hydro.
Remember, I run my filter to get rid of organics, not to get more.
---
Don’t think for a second I try to disrespect any of the skilled organic growers on here.
They know how to work their soil, create a solid buffer and care for their soil. Stability and TLC makes for superb weed.
It can be done very effective, and if you live in a house with garden where you can get rid of the waste afterward, without the nutrients just getting washed out. (remember, if you leave a mountain of organics exposed to weather, without plant to use the nutrients, the washout will be exactly the same as any other nutrient source.)
Using organic soil is an obvious choice for some, but me, living in an apartment, the only thing I can get rid of with zero environmental effects is nutrient rich water. (the bio cleaning facility connected to your toilet would consider hydrowater as very low on nutrients, compared to the waste it’s designed to manage )
I just don’t like how pseudo science is applied around here. People read scientific articles like they are an advice in general growing, without getting the whole picture.
There are different science studies. Some deal with understanding the plant in its natural outdoor environment, some are lab studies designed to understand some specific relations and other are field tests for use in horticulture.
As a few examples: If you read a lab test about CO2 levels and photosynthesis, you won’t necessarily get the same result as a field test, since flow dynamics isn’t necessarily part of a lab test. The beneficial bacteria found in nature could deal with a problem we don’t have in our tailor made soil. Some adotations to use alternative pigments in lightoptake under the natural light from the sun, may not be nessesary enough dealing with artificial light. Etc.
A plant doesn’t work like an engine you can boost by every little thing you change. It’s more like a factory with well defined use of energy and materials. You won’t boost anything by just getting more amps to your factory, or by having extra bolts and screws available..
You improve your total by removing a limiter or by nursing all parameters.
You can change the appearance of your product with different light spek., different climate and so on, but there is no holy grale hiding in a single element of plant physiology.
Back to your original question:
Have you thought about trying aquaponics? The use of fish in combination with the water you grow in? I could perhaps find some interesting facts since I know somebody who did experiments with that in Vietnam. It’s organic and easy, and doesn’t use any bottled shit.
Sorry, that took me some time, have to go now.
I'll get back to the other questions later.
I'll get some pictures, and update the growthread later.
Hi there D.I.try.
First, thanks for the nice comments.
I have to answer back to some of the thing you wrote, please don't get offended. I'll try to explain my standpoints.
You wrote: this is a very impressive project! I bet you would never get a root disease in a million years with a suitable biofilter but its still a common problem for others. I wonder if any commercial operations like the type that grow the most disgusting tasteless (possibly harmful?) tomatoes still rely chemical fungicides etc. Right, permission to bore you're socks off please!
Permission granted.
I am a greenhouse gardener by profession, and I don’t know of any harmful tomatoes?
It is correct the rockwool media they use can go anaerobic, but BVB sublime, the new “cubes” should be very good.
The tasteless tomatoes have nothing to do with fert, but the fact tomatoes are pushed to yield 40-50kg m2 in a standard semi modern greenhouse. You lose flavor from forcing fast development in fruit and vegetables. When breeding tomatoes they try to make strains with a high amount of brixtal (water soluble sugar).
They do get better and better at growing tasting tomatoes in high yields IMO.
Food production with synthetic fertilizers isn’t dangerous, it’s the exact same elements we feed the plants.
The scary pictures the organic fanatics try to paint are a big lie, and take their examples from the pesticide usage from the 80’s.
You use a lot of energy in a greenhouse. We use 3000+ 400w hps lamps in total where I work, just to give you an idea of the scale of things. Then try to imagine how much energy it takes to heat up that space to a minimum of 20-25 degrees Celsius when it’s -10C outside. Imagine the CO2 emission.
The ecology argument for not growing organic is, the time you save and the yield you make saves a lot more energy than you use creating and cleaning the natural salts you use for synthetic fertilizers.
Some organic people use the word chemical nutrients, because they like the negative sound of the word I guess. When the word chemical is normally used, it’s about elements that are uncommon in our natural environment. It’s normally called synthetic or artificial nutrients, because the mix is tailor made.
Pesticides, fungicides and other chemical agents are being banned as soon as they find a safer alternative. That’s why today’s agents are but a shadow of the stuff used 20 years ago. Furthermore they are heavily taxed.
Some countries are not that good at controlling it – I know. Wash whatever you buy from Spain
I’m talking about modern production here. We use less and less retarding agents in flowers, since it’s much cheaper to use a combined strategy involving mechanical stress, a tight watering strategy, circadian rhythm based changes in light and temperature.
We don’t use pesticides at all, not many do anymore. Beneficial insects and bacteria aren’t taxed and can easily compete with the weaker pesticides available today.
Fungicides are still used, but strategy in feeding and improved climate control as reduced it a lot. The new technique in tomatoes is uv-c light, which is completely safe; I believe it can be found in any culture that deals with fungi problems within the next years.
BTW: The new hydro grow system they use for lettuce, does use bacteria to get rid of organic waste.
Biofilter prevents rot, mold, nutrient buildups - not disease unfortunately.
You wrote: Working on the ethos that nature is best, I would so like to find out if natural fertilisers could be used in a system like this. I am so unqualified to analyse the effect of chemical fertilisers in any scientific way! But it will kill certain species of good bacteria and fungi and deplete others. Its proven chelated salts give great yields but I got a sneeking suspicion if you gave the root bacteria and fungi the full responsiblity of breaking down nutrients and fixing nitrogen from the air - allowing them to work to natures design in full sybiosis with the plant, in a super oxygenated environment, you could end up with a very special product ( maybe better yield, certainly better taste and certainly improving you're spirituality - providing it worked of couse, HAHA!).
Nature is best? I honestly don’t know how to respond to that.
Since the sun generates the energy, creates the rain and wind, and in the big perspective it drives every bio process - removing it from the ecuation makes the word natural pointless in regards to indoor growing with artificial light IMO.
I don't want to do what nature does, I want to beat it into submission using some of it's own weapons.
What is the difference between two identical NH4 ions, one fixated from the nitrogen in the air by use of an energy source, and one from the decay of organic matter?
Nature is abundant of both harmful and beneficial biology; there is no open invitation into my cab.
We have the choice of applying a nitrogen fixating bacteria culture at my work. It is used if we grow stuff like miniature Christmas trees, but not in the production process, since N is one of the easiest thing to feed the plant, it would be counterproductive using a bacteria living of plant sugar.
The culture would be established just before the product leaves the greenhouse, in oder to make the rootbound tree remain green without fertilizer for the customer.
You wrote: These nutrients would have to be in a liquid form obviously and at one time before I stopped growing I was looking at using a combination of bokashi juice and fermented urine - two things I use alot to grow food. You will be pleased to know both smell quite lovely!
Bokashi juice is the liquid that drains away from organic matter that has been fermented in an anaerobic environment by types of lactobaccilii. It is highly acidic but packed full of nutrients and is teeming with extremely benificial bacteria. The process of extracting the nutrients by fermentation also make them more accessible to the plant. It is called bokashi because thats the popular name given to a bucket system for kitchen food scraps (comes with a handy little tap for draining the liquid that just keeps on giving)- and I hyphothesise that if you needed more potassium for flowering then add more banaskins for example. I have grown basil very sucessfully in a nutrient devoid peat based compost on diluted bokashi juice alone which is very encouraging. What stuck me was how dark green, thick and waxy the leaves were. Oh and fermented urine is amazing stuff! I had the tastiest bumper crop of tomatoes last year, just don't let anyone catch you pissing into a
bottle. I love how both ingredients are both FREE and guaranteed NON-TOXIC.
I don’t know what bokashi juice is besides what you just wrote.
It could sound like you have misunderstood the basic advantage of running hydro. We give the roots extra oxygen, the oxygen is then used as a source of energy for the metabolism.
You get faster growth because there is a surplus of energy to convert the easy soluble synthetic fertilizers into whatever form the plant want to use it. No gain from helping the plant in that department.
Its nice that we dont need mycorrhiza to enlage the surface of root cells in hydro, since plants dont need to "dig" for P and Z. We use the stored starch for growth instead of sharing.
Are you sure your own urine is guaranteed non toxic? The bladder is where the body gets rid of harmfull compounds besides urea you know.
The only urea I use is the cleaned crystallized urea (made from animal urine I believe – but called chem by some
) And I would never use urea in my system. Urea and enzymes from my filter would make my NH4 level explode, since the enzymes does particular well in breaking down urea.(don’t use it in soil either, the NH4 level does the same thing. But used for foliar feeding, nothing comes close to urea – uptake happens so fast it’s almost the green “spray can”.)
Guess the fermentation makes it safe for plants, but it is not really of any interest in my version of hydro.
Remember, I run my filter to get rid of organics, not to get more.
---
Don’t think for a second I try to disrespect any of the skilled organic growers on here.
They know how to work their soil, create a solid buffer and care for their soil. Stability and TLC makes for superb weed.
It can be done very effective, and if you live in a house with garden where you can get rid of the waste afterward, without the nutrients just getting washed out. (remember, if you leave a mountain of organics exposed to weather, without plant to use the nutrients, the washout will be exactly the same as any other nutrient source.)
Using organic soil is an obvious choice for some, but me, living in an apartment, the only thing I can get rid of with zero environmental effects is nutrient rich water. (the bio cleaning facility connected to your toilet would consider hydrowater as very low on nutrients, compared to the waste it’s designed to manage
) I just don’t like how pseudo science is applied around here. People read scientific articles like they are an advice in general growing, without getting the whole picture.
There are different science studies. Some deal with understanding the plant in its natural outdoor environment, some are lab studies designed to understand some specific relations and other are field tests for use in horticulture.
As a few examples: If you read a lab test about CO2 levels and photosynthesis, you won’t necessarily get the same result as a field test, since flow dynamics isn’t necessarily part of a lab test. The beneficial bacteria found in nature could deal with a problem we don’t have in our tailor made soil. Some adotations to use alternative pigments in lightoptake under the natural light from the sun, may not be nessesary enough dealing with artificial light. Etc.
A plant doesn’t work like an engine you can boost by every little thing you change. It’s more like a factory with well defined use of energy and materials. You won’t boost anything by just getting more amps to your factory, or by having extra bolts and screws available..
You improve your total by removing a limiter or by nursing all parameters.
You can change the appearance of your product with different light spek., different climate and so on, but there is no holy grale hiding in a single element of plant physiology.
Back to your original question:
Have you thought about trying aquaponics? The use of fish in combination with the water you grow in? I could perhaps find some interesting facts since I know somebody who did experiments with that in Vietnam. It’s organic and easy, and doesn’t use any bottled shit.
Sorry, that took me some time, have to go now.
I'll get back to the other questions later.
Last edited:
Woah, you just dropped a whole lotta science, awesome
Hey!
Catching up with the posts I need to address.
Thanks scrubs
Happy you found it boom-mate
st. stedenko, actually no - got four rooted cuts, only room for one in the mum cab - couldn't throw the last one away
Zapot, I think organic hydro can make nice healthy plants, but consider the extra work caring for more than just your plants and perhaps your reasons for doing so. To me organics makes much more sense when you use soil or whatever substrate.
If you experiment, you could use some nutrient salts to up the specific levels if needed.
I haven't tried and don't know how hard it is to run.
Glaus, Ludo xhashish, and Nizzle, thanks. So nice to have you around.
Cheese, Thanks mate. They got switched at the end of nov.
So, a few pics today.
I tried something in this grow. In some vegetable greenhouses they make an extra afford to keep uvb/a out with special curtains. They do that because uv reduces chlorophyll. Dealing with flowers they want more of it because of the more compact growth and especially the color boost from more anthocyanin.
I wanted to find out if uv-a/b would have a negative effect on yield if applied from flower start, so one of my 6 bulbs is a "bio vital" from Narva. Huge amounts of uv-a/b.
It does have a negative effect, and I'm very surprised by how much!. The buds directly under the bulb are pencils, it get better the further away from the bulb we get. In the back of the cab it's much better though.
Even though I still have some 3 weeks to go, they are slowly turning purple closest to the bio vital bulb.
I would like the extra color on plants and less chlorophyll, but only in the flushing period.
Besides that, he smell and the crystals still promise very nice smoke.
cheers
Catching up with the posts I need to address.
Thanks scrubs
Happy you found it boom-mate
st. stedenko, actually no - got four rooted cuts, only room for one in the mum cab - couldn't throw the last one away
Zapot, I think organic hydro can make nice healthy plants, but consider the extra work caring for more than just your plants and perhaps your reasons for doing so. To me organics makes much more sense when you use soil or whatever substrate.
If you experiment, you could use some nutrient salts to up the specific levels if needed.
I haven't tried and don't know how hard it is to run.
Glaus, Ludo xhashish, and Nizzle, thanks. So nice to have you around.
Cheese, Thanks mate. They got switched at the end of nov.
So, a few pics today.
I tried something in this grow. In some vegetable greenhouses they make an extra afford to keep uvb/a out with special curtains. They do that because uv reduces chlorophyll. Dealing with flowers they want more of it because of the more compact growth and especially the color boost from more anthocyanin.
I wanted to find out if uv-a/b would have a negative effect on yield if applied from flower start, so one of my 6 bulbs is a "bio vital" from Narva. Huge amounts of uv-a/b.
It does have a negative effect, and I'm very surprised by how much!. The buds directly under the bulb are pencils, it get better the further away from the bulb we get. In the back of the cab it's much better though.
Even though I still have some 3 weeks to go, they are slowly turning purple closest to the bio vital bulb.
I would like the extra color on plants and less chlorophyll, but only in the flushing period.
Besides that, he smell and the crystals still promise very nice smoke.
cheers
Go læsestof der-tak-men må læse det 4-6 x-før den er der-hold da op.Den viden . )
Der er osse en masse tungmetaller i de gødninger,de sælger os-skriver nogen herinde
Canna,s bør have mindst af disse.Skriver en men ja-hvem kan måle det og bliver disse optaget i planten eller ? "de" prakker os bare noget på-tror jeg.
Set på TV fra En planteskole i omegnen-man laver forsøg nu med og berøre planter ca hver halve time,bare på toppen-så vokser de ikke så meget i højden-siger "de".Osse set forsøg med man sprøjter udvalgte planter med en sukkerblandig og denne bør forstærke deres immunforsvar.Hvad denne sukker så består af.Men må lige oversætte det meste,for at forstå.Hm så du er gartner-ok .spændende og tak fordi,du deler af din viden.
flotte planter som altid-Hygge SP.
Der er osse en masse tungmetaller i de gødninger,de sælger os-skriver nogen herinde
Canna,s bør have mindst af disse.Skriver en men ja-hvem kan måle det og bliver disse optaget i planten eller ? "de" prakker os bare noget på-tror jeg.
Set på TV fra En planteskole i omegnen-man laver forsøg nu med og berøre planter ca hver halve time,bare på toppen-så vokser de ikke så meget i højden-siger "de".Osse set forsøg med man sprøjter udvalgte planter med en sukkerblandig og denne bør forstærke deres immunforsvar.Hvad denne sukker så består af.Men må lige oversætte det meste,for at forstå.Hm så du er gartner-ok .spændende og tak fordi,du deler af din viden.
flotte planter som altid-Hygge SP.
U
unthing
Looking good Superpedro. Have noticed any difference in trichomes with this uv-a/b experiment?
Superpedro, thanks for your reply. I think i´ll stick with chemicals! 
btw. I´m surprised that you are experimenting with UV-A with your plants as that is known to be pretty harmful for plants and all experiments that i´ve seen or even heard of have only been with UV-B when it comes to cannabis. Some say that it does nothing, some swear in the name of dick´s that it produces more resin, more potent extracts etc. but i would not be so certain about it.
I have grown a strain that contains < 0.2% THC as it is a commercial strain for oil and seeds. As i used PL-L in cool tubes made of laboratory glass that blocks UV by nature i was surprised to get high from that strain. There was something else that i did also what i think is way more important factor when it comes to production of THC... So according to that UV-B is not so very important for THC production. What do you think about that?
Edit: For me the point being that it is not necessary to add UV-B (that is harmful to human skin and eyes) for cannabis to produce THC.
btw. I´m surprised that you are experimenting with UV-A with your plants as that is known to be pretty harmful for plants and all experiments that i´ve seen or even heard of have only been with UV-B when it comes to cannabis. Some say that it does nothing, some swear in the name of dick´s that it produces more resin, more potent extracts etc. but i would not be so certain about it.
I have grown a strain that contains < 0.2% THC as it is a commercial strain for oil and seeds. As i used PL-L in cool tubes made of laboratory glass that blocks UV by nature i was surprised to get high from that strain. There was something else that i did also what i think is way more important factor when it comes to production of THC... So according to that UV-B is not so very important for THC production. What do you think about that?
Edit: For me the point being that it is not necessary to add UV-B (that is harmful to human skin and eyes) for cannabis to produce THC.
