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220W PL-L Stealth Bookshelf Plans

T

Teslas Deathray

New member
After a lot of lurking. I have some plans drawn up for a bookshelf/cd-shelf I want to construct. The goal is mega stealth.

The unit will use PL-L lighting, and have a seperately accessible flower and veg room + a little storage.

The extraction will be through an S+P inline axial fan wrapped and padded in its own chamber http://global.solerpalau.com/product.jsp?PRODUCTID=391&CATEGORYID=45 (although I would much prefer a TD-SILENT if i had the space) intaking through a 4" x 24" CF (e.g. CAN 2600) and outputting through a 24" homemade muffler.

I am aiming for a completely non suspicious, noiseless, odourless, light-tight bookshelf unit with nothing dodgier than some neat vents on the back and a power lead coming out.

The shelves at the front will slide out to access the grow area in the back.

Measurements are 3'4" long x 1'4" deep x 3' Tall. The internal grow area measurements are 11" x 2' x 3' high in flower, and 11" x 8" x 2' in veg.

Closed.png


Closed_Back.png


Open.png


Open_2.png


Half_Open_Front.png


Half_Open_Back.png


The large cylinder in the front is the CF, the one in the back is the muffler, and the one theyre both attached to in the lower chamber is the well wrapped fan.

The passive intakes could always be positioned on the floor, and the lights in flower could be on a movable shelf.

Well, enough massive pictures. What are your opinions? Missing anything? Got some things wrong? This will be my first cab build so I expect ive got a few things wrong for sure.
 
superpedro

superpedro

Member
Veteran
Looks great.
Any idea what kind of light trap you are going to use on your intake?

Love pl-l's - looking forward :)
 
V

Voidling

Member
I like it though I'd hate to remove and replace all the books and or knick knacks placed on the book case every time though it might limit how often I open it up just to take a look at them. I think I'd open the back like anti's cab personally.

I'd like to see your construction method as I am trying to figure out how to frame my cab. Are you going to use a 1x2 or 2x4 frame or just the sheets of wood screwed together? Thanks
 
T

Teslas Deathray

New member
Yeah that could be an issue. I was thinking if the shelf part was a full frame with sides top bottom and back, and if you were careful the books should remain in place as you slide it out.

The construction method will definitely need a frame involved at that size I would think. Hopefully 2x1 will cut it. That is what I was planning on. I am just sorting final materials before I start construction. Which fan I use, which filter etc all determine final size. I would love to use a TD-SILENT fan but theyre damn long. I cant have the thing too deep, I think 1'5" is about the deepest plausible bookshelf I can go for.

This fan claims 27dBA @3m on low, although I find it hard to believe. It does have a built in speed controller and temp probe though and is smaller than the TD-silent.

Anyone used one before?

Also, the flower chamber is only about 1.75 ft2, would I be just as well off going for 165w pl-l?
 
T

Teslas Deathray

New member
Here are some updated plans, with the angle light trap as detailing (and intake) at the front, and a shorter carbon filter (4" x 18" such as the can 2600) at the back, which allows for a longer muffler run (up the front and then out the back at the top.)

I have never built a cabinet before, and only grown outdoors, so any advice is welcome...
Bookshelf_Closed.png


Bookshelf_Open_1.png


Bookshelf_Open_2.png
 
Anti

Anti

Sorcerer's Apprentice
Veteran
I learned from my first cab that framing is definitely a good idea. My new works will include 2x2 frames. (Which are actually 1.5"x1.5" ... good to know when you are working on your sketchup model.)


400w CMH + 4x55w PLL in corners
​
 
V

Voidling

Member
I think the angle light block makes a nice looking decorative edge as long as black fits your color scheme.

Have you looked at anti's thread about vertical pl-l lights with light overlap per plant?

Just spent $150 on ballasts, lights, and sockets. Need to figure out my design and get building quick.
 
T

Teslas Deathray

New member
I've found some angle trim in wood at the hardware shop, that should fit in with the rest of the bookshelf. I am not sure what material to clad it in, painted ply might look suspiciously homemade. I was thinking tongue and groove might look good and not be too heavy.

[Drawing with frame included. The slide-out shelving portions will have their own frame and the angle trim integrated]

Bookshelf.jpg
 
V

Voidling

Member
Looks good, is that 1x2 on the frame? I'm still waiting to see how the moving of the books is going to work out for you.

I've thought I'd attach some black fabric on the back side of the light block to help block out more light, like anti used for blocking light between his flower and veg chambers. Might cut down enough light that you don't need to paint the angles black, or just paint the part you can't see black.

Or call the faint glow mood lighting and incorporate a little light on each piece of furniture. Never have to worry about stubbing your toes in the night.
 
T

Teslas Deathray

New member
The light trap / airspace underneath is two 2x1s tall. I was thinking I could have it go: a gap, one 2x1 at against the ceiling, another gap, a 2x1 against the bottom, another gap, and then the light trap. So no direct light can travel through. A bit of black cloth would be useful as a prefilter anyway on the air coming in.

The flower area is about 1.75sqft, do you think 3x55s or 4x55s would be better suited?
And for the veg area, I could only fit about 3x9inch long PL-Ls, i think the 9inch are 18W? is 54w enough in there for veg?

Edit: The books are an attractive options because, a. I have heaps of books and need a bookshelf. b. They legitimize the bit of furniture whilst only taking up 6" of depth. Its the depth that looks suspicious on these things in my opinion...
 
V

Voidling

Member
Depth does seem to be the suspicious factor. I might have to ditch my plans for stealth for the moment and build some foot locker looking boxes just to get them into a better setup asap.

As far as the lights, some people run 4 of the 55w off of one workhorse 8 but the warranty only covers 3x55w. The explanation is that while it can handle the power, it isn't made to handle that much power continuously and can shorten the life of the ballasts and bulbs I believe. I saw Anti explain it somewhere so maybe he can point you in the right direction. I plan to set mine up with only three on each ballast though I might go back and run 4 knowing the risk.

I think 50w per square foot is the minimum recommended and your veg room is under a square foot so it should be ok I would think. Assuming I'm correct on the 50w per square foot recommendation. Your veg side is two foot tall so you could fit stronger ones in there vertically on the walls or in the middle. Look up the high pod and or Tilt's grows https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=196405

I'd definitely go vertical and get more light on them if possible
 
Anti

Anti

Sorcerer's Apprentice
Veteran
Voidling said:
As far as the lights, some people run 4 of the 55w off of one workhorse 8 but the warranty only covers 3x55w. The explanation is that while it can handle the power, it isn't made to handle that much power continuously and can shorten the life of the ballasts and bulbs I believe. I saw Anti explain it somewhere so maybe he can point you in the right direction. I plan to set mine up with only three on each ballast though I might go back and run 4 knowing the risk.
Click to expand...

Depth is only suspicious if you don't have something large up top. On top of my cab is a large 3.5ft(w)x2.5ft(d)x10"(h) mixer which makes the cabinet look to be about the proper proportions. Looks like this:

ghostle.jpg


As far as the Fulham Workhorse 8 - the Manufacturer rates it at 3x55w but 4x50w. Reason being that most people who are using these are going to be flipping them on and off all day long. People like US who use turn them on and off once a day can probably get away with 4x55w according to some of the electricians on this site.

I think 50w per square foot is the minimum recommended and your veg room is under a square foot so it should be ok I would think.
Click to expand...
50w-75w with no CO2. up to100w/sq ft if you are boosting CO2 levels.
 
Tilt

Tilt

Member
Ideas for you.
1.put it on casters or teflon furniture movers
2.carbon filters make a good muffler if you exhaust through them
3.If you have vibration sound put a fan or humidfier on top of it (camoflage)
4.I would go with 2 levels in the veg chamber. I was always wishing I had more floor space in my veg area in my last cabinet or room to expand
5. set aside space to dry finished product in The carbon filter will help protect your stealth
6. think about where your going to work on your plants and store all your supplies dirt nutes water pest management spare parts and all the other shit that looks suspiciuos
7. have a small shop vac on hand spills will happen

all this comes from problems Ive had to deal with. Good luck looking forward to seeing the cab
 
T

Teslas Deathray

New member
Just on holidays till feb. I have a revision on the air handling box area with about 6ft of muffler incorporated that also squeezes in the soler and palau TD-SILENT 160/100 into the space. Construction starts early feb.
 
K

kjz71521

Member
Nice sketchup work.. Im gonna pull up a chair for this bcuzz its gonna get interesting.. Come by and check out my 150w hps vert mini sog factory made from a 70'z house bar.
 
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