Let's see and hear about your sick plants!!
- Thread starter Gypsy Nirvana
- Start date
raphenilweed
Member
I am not sure about the discoloration, but they looked over fertilized. If it is not that it could be too high humidity, not enough air flow, too much moisture in soil or the rain water. Rain water can collect residues and such off your roof, gutters can be contaminated. Rain water collection isn't recommended for edible plants.
raphenilweed
Member
would someone please advise me how to recover this plant? any good advice appreciated.
ummmmm. is that mold? if you reallywant to revive it cut everthing except the stem in the bottom right corner. dig it up, put inside under 18 hours fora few months, clone and replant
raphenilweed
Member
could someone help me with my plants i am a first time grower and im growing this for my meds and as soon as i got to flowering this is what started to happen
maybe splashed nutrients on the leaf?
i have 12 plants under 1k watt. ( hydro) lights from the plants is about 1.5 ft away but im still getting yellow and some brown dying leaves on the whole plant. ph- 5.6-6. im using gh mgb, bcuzz bloom, big bud and sweet. what can it be? ill be getting pix of it soon. just tried get a idea of what can it be...
This is an OldTimer Haze by Ace. I've gone very lightly on feeding but did give a mild dose of organics about a week ago. Does this look like fert burn or is the plant starting to show deficiency. Thanks.
Rusty spots and wilting top
Rusty spots and wilting top
My feminized White Widow is in the end of the first week of flower, and yesterday I watered with compost tea plus a dash of Liquid Karma. This morning she's looking a bit grim. Plenty of the leaves are healthy, but the fully developed shade leaves toward the top look like this (apologies for the poor quality)
The whole plant looks like this
I've posted this in Burn1's organic thread as well because she's in LC's Mix #1 with blood, bone, and kelp meal. I followed all his directions to the letter. The biggest change made so far is that I moved her from 125w CFL to 250w HPS for flowering; some of the burning/dryness you can see on the lefthand side of the plant image happened the very first day (and I moved the light up higher after that, no problems the rest of the week until now).
Thanks for your help!
Rusty spots and wilting top
My feminized White Widow is in the end of the first week of flower, and yesterday I watered with compost tea plus a dash of Liquid Karma. This morning she's looking a bit grim. Plenty of the leaves are healthy, but the fully developed shade leaves toward the top look like this (apologies for the poor quality)
The whole plant looks like this
I've posted this in Burn1's organic thread as well because she's in LC's Mix #1 with blood, bone, and kelp meal. I followed all his directions to the letter. The biggest change made so far is that I moved her from 125w CFL to 250w HPS for flowering; some of the burning/dryness you can see on the lefthand side of the plant image happened the very first day (and I moved the light up higher after that, no problems the rest of the week until now).
Thanks for your help!
Green-horn green-thumb here... Growing 2 Super Lemon Haze plants side by side. One is doing great and one has awfully skinny fan leaves at the growing tip ends. My local god-father says it could be too much nitro. Any thoughts? I'm in the fifth week of flower running 400w hps
OptimusPrime
Member
Sick Seedlings need urgent treatment.
Sick Seedlings need urgent treatment.
Hello everyone
Situation:
- 5 fem SuperSkunks (seeds) in Soil BioBiozz All mix
- Germinated about 2 weeks ago in peat pallets
- Transfered to soil 4 days ago (problem started)
- No nutes given yet
- Humidity around 50 %
- Temp between 17ºC and 24ºC
- PH 6.2
- Excellent air ventilation: Exhaust is a 400cm running 45 min every hour(please tell me if it's too much or not, and constant fan blowing directly into plants.
- Using 2 FL 18 watts tubes 24/0
- Plants are 10 cm from bulbs
-Using Tap water
- Plants don't have pests
- Watered 4 days ago when transplanted.
Problem: Leaves seem to have 2 types of problems: 2 kinds of spots, 1 are reddish brown and others are dark and seem to have also yellow on them. Seems some sort of fungus
Pics now:
Sick Seedlings need urgent treatment.
Hello everyone
Situation:
- 5 fem SuperSkunks (seeds) in Soil BioBiozz All mix
- Germinated about 2 weeks ago in peat pallets
- Transfered to soil 4 days ago (problem started)
- No nutes given yet
- Humidity around 50 %
- Temp between 17ºC and 24ºC
- PH 6.2
- Excellent air ventilation: Exhaust is a 400cm running 45 min every hour(please tell me if it's too much or not, and constant fan blowing directly into plants.
- Using 2 FL 18 watts tubes 24/0
- Plants are 10 cm from bulbs
-Using Tap water
- Plants don't have pests
- Watered 4 days ago when transplanted.
Problem: Leaves seem to have 2 types of problems: 2 kinds of spots, 1 are reddish brown and others are dark and seem to have also yellow on them. Seems some sort of fungus
Pics now:
Attachments
OptimusPrime
Member
Please anyone?
This has been progressively worsening over the past week and a bit. Soil PH was 6.9, and now has been reduced to 6.3. Plants were thoroughly flushed with plain PH water, and were fed last night. Only a few plants have this, and it's only a couple fan leaves per plant approx. 3/4 way up the plant...
What is it?? Nute burn?? They were fed last night 1300PPM, GH 3 part. 2 nights ago I foliared with Sensical.
https://www.icmag.com/gallery/data/500/10109Picture_169.jpg
I had a couple with the same symptoms. I was beginning to worry but she continues growing as healthy as any other.
It took me a week or 2 to realize what happened, about the same time those leave needed to come off anyway and it doesn't seem to come back. I had sprayed my room down with a bleach solution after my last run because of spider mites. Apparently some of it remained or hadn't dried out and the leaves made contact with it.
Okay people... Here is my lil issue.
Seeds germinated and planted 10/8/2010 in soil, hand watered.
I transplanted and started 12/12 on 10/28/10.
They are a hybrid between an auto-flowering Ruderalis/Chronic (it's skunk x, northern lights, and ak47 crossed w/Ruderalis).
Lighting is a 1000w MH and 1 400w HPS.
Temps run 50-60 at night when the lights are off and right around 70 w/ lights on. (I am deliberately allowing temps to drop at night. I read that it could increase trichs, so I am testing the theory).
Okay I think that covers the set, so onto my issue.
On several plants I noticed that the leaves are collapsing instead of fanning.
Does anybody know what causes this? Is it something that I need to be concerned about?
Seeds germinated and planted 10/8/2010 in soil, hand watered.
I transplanted and started 12/12 on 10/28/10.
They are a hybrid between an auto-flowering Ruderalis/Chronic (it's skunk x, northern lights, and ak47 crossed w/Ruderalis).
Lighting is a 1000w MH and 1 400w HPS.
Temps run 50-60 at night when the lights are off and right around 70 w/ lights on. (I am deliberately allowing temps to drop at night. I read that it could increase trichs, so I am testing the theory).
Okay I think that covers the set, so onto my issue.
On several plants I noticed that the leaves are collapsing instead of fanning.
Does anybody know what causes this? Is it something that I need to be concerned about?
Grosgourdin
New member
Okay I have some problems with my plants, dont know exactly what it is.
It is in LC's mix #1 with the organic recipe #1 in the Burn1's thread.
Do yo have any clue what could the problem be?
Sorry for the quality they come from my i phone..
It is in LC's mix #1 with the organic recipe #1 in the Burn1's thread.
Do yo have any clue what could the problem be?
Sorry for the quality they come from my i phone..
nw4evergreen
Member
Grosgourdin, I'm just chiming in to help the lack of solutions I see in this thread, but if it were my guess, I would call it a lockout or nute toxicity. Old growth is ok, but new growth is burnt indicating its most likely not a deficiency. Tough to say exactly what it is. Toxicity can cause a number of lockouts and show symptoms of several problems. I might flush with distilled or RO water and cut back on the nutes and see if there is any improvement.
I need help with 1 of my plants, every shoot of the main leaves (not the fan leaves) is growing clumped together, they dont open out. How and why does this happeeen? This seems to be affected its flowering... 20 days into flowering now my other plant is fine, this plant im talking about has shown no growth at all it looks like its handicapped by the leaves not opening up.
nw4evergreen
Member
mo0cow, does the new leaves have any yellowing appearing? Can you provide pics? Only one thing comes to mind, but it is rare. Give more detail please.
nw4evergreen
Member
Imo, if you are still having the problem, it doesn't look to be anything nutrition related. My first thought was pests. Then you mentioned the possibility of fungus and no pests. So my last thought was some sort of disease or fungal attack. Your humidity is at 50% so I doubt a fungal problem, my final idea is a disease of some sort. Don't quote me, but maybe a leaf septoria. I keep thinking that that looks just like a pest attack, but if your positive that's not the case, then a disease would be my final guess. Sorry I can't be of more help, but if it is disease, try to cut of the badly affected parts and vectors of the problems, use neem oil, and finally try a fungicide and see if things improve. I'm a bit skeptical because disease like this rarely occur indoors, but rather outdoors. Exposure to outdoors or anything that could have caused a tranfer of foreign debree can however cause indoor diseases that are rare. LMK if this helps or if things get worse or don't change. I'm only a novice when it comes to things like this, but I will do the best to help if I can. NW
nw4evergreen
Member
Hey, well as this is a stress test, it could be a result of your experimenting. Lower temps inhibit P and cause changes in color and slowed growth or maturation. Roots can suffer due to cold temps, and sugars produced by tissues that have slowed growth could actually decrease the trich production. The leaf you are concerned about isn't any indication of a problem within itself, just a result of other influencing factors or the strains genetics, but I have never seen that kind of growth from genetic expression. It probably is just a reaction that is natural due to the cold. IMHO if you want more trich production, stress is the worng way to go about it as the plant will spend its energy on surviving from the stress and the resulting yield will also suffer. A suggestion on more trichs is to give your plants what they need and keep them healthy. Then experiment with different nute supplements and most of all, light spectrum. Light spectrum IMO is the key from what I have seen and experienced. Not only do I believe the trich production would increase, the overall yield would increase as well and allow your girls to find their true genetic potential.Okay people... Here is my lil issue.
Seeds germinated and planted 10/8/2010 in soil, hand watered.
I transplanted and started 12/12 on 10/28/10.
They are a hybrid between an auto-flowering Ruderalis/Chronic (it's skunk x, northern lights, and ak47 crossed w/Ruderalis).
Lighting is a 1000w MH and 1 400w HPS.
Temps run 50-60 at night when the lights are off and right around 70 w/ lights on. (I am deliberately allowing temps to drop at night. I read that it could increase trichs, so I am testing the theory).
Okay I think that covers the set, so onto my issue.
On several plants I noticed that the leaves are collapsing instead of fanning.
Does anybody know what causes this? Is it something that I need to be concerned about?
LEDs are getting amazing results supplemented with hids. CMHs are showing huge improvements in the veg stage and combined with an HPS in flower, I would bet you would see a significant difference with the increase in blue and daylight spectrums. However, CFLs and newer hids can be used to give plants optimal spectrums by changing bulbs to the recomended spectrum in the stage of flower they are in. This WILL imo increase your trich production and yield. Just trying to suggest different options and help others who may be interested. No harm in trying as you are conducting an experiment. Later everyone, NW or known as jdmhideye in the NW forums.
Thanks for your response and advise NW.
I was kinda thinking the same thing but it just doesn't really work either.
I am kind of leaning more to water/nutrient problems, along with being root bound and possibly cigarette poisoning.
I have used peat pellets a lot before and remember some similar problems when I first started using them.
Man I can tell you that peat pellets and those damn starter pots that are supposed to degrade and allow roots to grow through them can cause some problems if you haven't used them before.
Some of them are impregnated with fungicide and nutes. Some of them don't deteriorate quickly enough to allow the roots it grow through them and the simply get root-bound and starve.
Also, I smoke a pipe. As in a tobacco pipe... When I first started growing tomatoes it didn't take long to learn how badly and how quickly tobacco residue from your hands can destroy plants. IMO those look a whole lot like they have been poisoned from tobacco.
So my prognosis is 3 different problems:
1.) Over watered.
2.) Root bound.
3.) Cigarette poisoning.
Here is what I suggest: (If I am correct then you will know in minutes and see improvement in a day or so.)
Remove one of them from the plastic cups and gently rinse it off with a spray bottle of distilled water. Check to see if the roots have penetrated the peat pellets.
If not you should still be able to save them. Use a brand new razor blade and ever so carefully make vertical slices down each one and peel off the outside skin that holds the peat together.
I can't stress enough though that if you smoke wash your hands 2 or 3 times. Also if you smoke, buy some gloves and USE them. They will save you hundreds of hours, thousands of dollars and dozens of hours worrying about your plants.
When you re-plant them I really recommend that you stop fooling around and put em in 4" minimum and if possible go to 6".
Transplanting stresses plants, (trust me I know). Every time you transplant, you stress the plant just that much more.
Everytime I see those little tiny starter cups I think; "Huh, must not have very high expectations". I start germinated seeds sometimes in peat pellets, but normally I germinate them and they go straight into 6" pots. They hold temps more evenly, water and food longer and give roots plenty of room to be adventurous.
I hope this helps and good luck. I would be interested in hearing what you decide also.
I was kinda thinking the same thing but it just doesn't really work either.
I am kind of leaning more to water/nutrient problems, along with being root bound and possibly cigarette poisoning.
I have used peat pellets a lot before and remember some similar problems when I first started using them.
Man I can tell you that peat pellets and those damn starter pots that are supposed to degrade and allow roots to grow through them can cause some problems if you haven't used them before.
Some of them are impregnated with fungicide and nutes. Some of them don't deteriorate quickly enough to allow the roots it grow through them and the simply get root-bound and starve.
Also, I smoke a pipe. As in a tobacco pipe... When I first started growing tomatoes it didn't take long to learn how badly and how quickly tobacco residue from your hands can destroy plants. IMO those look a whole lot like they have been poisoned from tobacco.
So my prognosis is 3 different problems:
1.) Over watered.
2.) Root bound.
3.) Cigarette poisoning.
Here is what I suggest: (If I am correct then you will know in minutes and see improvement in a day or so.)
Remove one of them from the plastic cups and gently rinse it off with a spray bottle of distilled water. Check to see if the roots have penetrated the peat pellets.
If not you should still be able to save them. Use a brand new razor blade and ever so carefully make vertical slices down each one and peel off the outside skin that holds the peat together.
I can't stress enough though that if you smoke wash your hands 2 or 3 times. Also if you smoke, buy some gloves and USE them. They will save you hundreds of hours, thousands of dollars and dozens of hours worrying about your plants.
When you re-plant them I really recommend that you stop fooling around and put em in 4" minimum and if possible go to 6".
Transplanting stresses plants, (trust me I know). Every time you transplant, you stress the plant just that much more.
Everytime I see those little tiny starter cups I think; "Huh, must not have very high expectations". I start germinated seeds sometimes in peat pellets, but normally I germinate them and they go straight into 6" pots. They hold temps more evenly, water and food longer and give roots plenty of room to be adventurous.
I hope this helps and good luck. I would be interested in hearing what you decide also.
Is it to dry ?
Is it to dry ?
Hi people, the plant is showing something, that i don't want let to happen. Temps are normal at day 25 C; at night 19 C. It's a small grow with few cfl. I didn't use any fertilizers yet. Soil is tested in many grows by friends and water is neutral ph. So, what is going on ?
Here are some photos: whole plant
look from closer
and last question: why it's stem and bottom of leafs is turning purple ? it's not to cold at nights... and it's not the genetics
p.s. sori for bad quality photos...
Is it to dry ?
Hi people, the plant is showing something, that i don't want let to happen. Temps are normal at day 25 C; at night 19 C. It's a small grow with few cfl. I didn't use any fertilizers yet. Soil is tested in many grows by friends and water is neutral ph. So, what is going on ?
Here are some photos: whole plant
look from closer
and last question: why it's stem and bottom of leafs is turning purple ? it's not to cold at nights... and it's not the genetics
p.s. sori for bad quality photos...
