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PM at 7 weeks, figh it or fuck it?

talktosamson

Active member
Veteran
So I have PM for the first time ever and in the middle of winter no less...my room has cool temps and super low humidity so I don't really know how I caught it. It has attacked my C99 and Blueberry plants pretty bad. Treated with "That Stuff" for powdery mildew and it was really ineffective. I don't want to spray much more on my big juicy buds, but don't want to smoke mildew either, so should I say fuck it and cut these two and leave the rest in? Or should I try and treat them? They really need at least one more week, could use 10 days if there is a way, but they are big and covered in trichs.
 

PoopyTeaBags

State Liscensed Care Giver/Patient, Assistant Trai
Veteran
what did you use eagle 20???

botanigaurd es should work and can apply up to day of harvest with no ill effects
 

talktosamson

Active member
Veteran
There is a product available in Oregon called, That stuff, its specifically designed for PM. Botanigaurd has no aftertaste or smell? I don't want my C99 to smell like anything except pineapple candy!
 

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
All you need to do is change the PH on the surface of the plant. I would try and fight it if it's not to bad. You can use lemons(ph1.8- 2.3) or vinigar(2.4-3.4) spray the plants wait for a few hours and then spray again with just plian PH water. If it's real bad just use it to make bubble or oil
 

stoney917

i Am SoFaKiNg WeTod DiD
Veteran
i use eagle 20 preflower and if the strain is a longer flowerer and some pmshows up close to the end i spray with a milk solution and it clears right up cut off badly infectd leaves and spray if ya want u can rinse spray with high ph water a few days later and ur plants will look normal. trics dont wash off.
 

talktosamson

Active member
Veteran
Ok going to kick their asses with a milk solution tonight. So how much milk per gallon, and can I use use like the 2% out of my fridge? Then a few day later super high PH water? I would say on a sale of 1 to 10 its a 3-4 right now, so I would like to try and stop it so I can let them finish out correctly. Its so weird, this is by far the best grow I have ever done both quality and yield wise, but I have somehow gotten and killed mites and now PM....damn the luck, but thanks to you all I will have killed both my problems quickly and efficiently.
 

RedReign

Active member
I'm in the same boat as talktosamson.

I just want to clarify, the milk/water spray will not harm the pistils/frost on the buds? Will it have any affect at all on the final look/taste of the buds?
 
Actinovate, a solution of baking soda water, hydrogen peroxide. or the lemon vinegar mixture suggested. You can use the milk but is very ineffective because the lack of bacteria due to pasteurization laws. But go ahead and use it and watch the PM grow.

Oh and if anyone really believes milk works please point to a study or actual scientific research on this. Please site how it works and the name of the processes. That goes for the calcium uptake statement as well.
 

.nesta.

New member
"green cure" by far the easiest & most effective solution...can be used right up to harvest w/no ill side effects...just use a weaker solution & lightly spray the infected plants
 

fonzee

Weed Cannasaur
Moderator
Veteran
Whatever you spray, make sure you have a LOT of air circulation afterward. You don't want budrot too.
When I spray during flowering in my 0.8 square meter chamber I use a 22" industrial fan for 1-2 hours until everything is DRY.

Liquid can easily stay for a while in the cavities of big buds and cause rot.
 

Phedrosbenny

Trying to have a good day
Veteran
Got any pics of the problem? I would like to see them for reference..I havent had that problem yet.I usually keep a good amount of air circulation and stay away from any foliar spray once im flowering trying to avoid that problem.

And I wouldnt get rid of them either..Just make bubble or oil with them if nothing else.
 

B. Friendly

"IBIUBU" Sayeith the Dude
Veteran
you gotta fight it or it will fuck you.

The worst strain i ever saw this PM with was Purple Kush, but I used my Sulphur Burner and beat it

no organics other than sulphur burning to beat it that I know of.

plus if you use sulphur burning it will be 100% preventative, it will not cure it if you already have it.

that said you can go up to 6 hours of burnig sulphur when the lights are off. *** most use 2 hours max at night of burning.
 

talktosamson

Active member
Veteran
Ok so I did the milk thing last night and today...I would say 90% eradication of all PM in the room. Going to hit it with the high PH water in 2 days to clean everything off. This single act saved my blueberry plant, was going to cut her today if this did not help. but she had got 10 more days into her to swell and look wonderful and blue/purple. Dunno if it was the previous treatments of "that stuff" of the milk but either way it worked!!
 

kmk420kali

Freedom Fighter
Veteran
Oh and if anyone really believes milk works please point to a study or actual scientific research on this. Please site how it works and the name of the processes. That goes for the calcium uptake statement as well.

Published in: Australasian Plant Pathology, 2006, 35, pages 487–493.
Abstract: "Grapevine powdery mildew, caused by the fungus Erysiphe (Uncinula) necator, is a major disease affecting grape yield and quality worldwide. In conventional vineyards, the disease is controlled mainly by regular applications of sulfur and synthetic fungicides and, in organic agriculture, by sulfur and botanical and mineral oils.
Research has identified milk and whey as potential replacements for synthetic fungicides and sulfur in the control of powdery mildew. Electron spin resonance and scanning electron microscopy were used to investigate the possible mode or modes of action of milk and whey in the control of powdery mildew. Electron spin resonance experiments showed that various components of milk produced oxygen radicals in natural light, which may have contributed to the reduction of severity of powdery mildew on treated leaves. Milk and whey caused the hyphae of E. necator to collapse and damaged conidia within 24 h of treatment. Hydrogen peroxide, applied as a source of free radicals, also caused collapse of the hyphae of E. necator but did not damage conidia, and appeared to stimulate germination. Lactoferrin (an antimicrobial component of milk) ruptured conidia, but damage to hyphae was not evident until 48 h after treatment. The results support the hypothesis that free radical production and the action of lactoferrin are associated with the control of powdery mildew by milk."

Published In: Phytopathology 96:S4
http://apsjournals.apsnet.org/doi/pdf/10.1094/PHYTO.2006.96.6.S1
Abstract: "Powdery mildew (PM) is a serious fungal disease in a wide range of horticultural crops that can adversely affect yield quantity and quality. This paper describes the potential of milk fat and soybean oil emulsions to control apple PM (Podosphaera leucotricha) on the cultivar ‘Royal gala’ and rose PM (Sphaerotheca pannosa var. rosae) on the cultivar ‘Sahara’. Potted plants were kept under controlled environment conditions and subjected to weekly sprays of the two emulsions along with fungicide, unsprayed and water control treatments. In apple seedlings, the milk fat and soybean oil emulsions significantly reduced PM after 7 to 8 weeks, to an average infection of <12% compared with 100% infection in the control plants. There were no significant differences in PM control between the milk fat emulsion and fungicide treatments, but the soybean oil emulsion produced disease control equal to or exceeding that of the fungicide (Kumulus® DF, BASF, Germany). At the conclusion of the experiments, plant height, weight and stem girth were significantly higher in the emulsion and fungicide treatments compared with control treatments. For roses, PM infection increased to 100% in control plants over the period of 6 weeks. The fungicide (Supershield™, Yates, New Zealand) reduced infection to an average of 48%, but the emulsions resulted in plants with an average infection of <2%."

And here is a link that is interesting-- http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~linda%20chalker-scott/horticultural%20myths_files/Myths/Milk%20and%20mildew.pdf

I agree with you that it is not the most effective way to treat PM, but found many studies showing it isn't just a Myth--
Bottom line...Milk is shown to help reduce PM, but it is best used as a preventative--
Also, it seems that it more effective in natural light--:tiphat:
 

Mrgrowem

Active member
The best thing about milk is you can use it nearer the end and NOT apply chemicals. Milk won't hurt you or your plants. It will not eradicate PM completely, most studies don't indicate that it will. In a pinch it will save a late crop. With the change in PH on the surfaces of the plant, as suggested by some, milk may do the plant good.......
 

crippled1

Member
Poopy tea bags - how can you possibly recommend Botanigard ES to treat powdery mildew?

IT IS AN INSECTICIDE DIPSHIT!

Get some Oxidate or just use some hydrogen peroxide/water.
 

robbiedublu

Member
A vote for greencure from another Oregon grower. Whatever you do, jump on that shit. It may seem like it's only on a few plants now but that shit will spread and infect everything before you know it. I treat plants when they go into flowering even if they show no signs. Good luck!
 

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