Wait, you add bleach directly into your resorvoir? Even when you have living plants in it?
res temps 80+, how to avoid root rot?
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Wait, you add bleach directly into your resorvoir? Even when you have living plants in it?
BeaverHuntr
Member
Stick a dedicated fan on your Airpumps intake for even more control. As roots envelop your airstones causing backpressure on your pump making it warmer, however warmer it is it will help im sure, the next best thing to a chiller imo. Ive found especially helpfull half way through bloom, touch test your pump at that time & you'll see what i mean. The fan right on the intake move closer or further away & watch Res Temps change to your favour. You can almost controll the Res temp. My best tip ever & main contribution to this site! 
Works for me really well.
Ive got alot of inspiration from the man Heath R, fair play, the airgap thing is bang-on & i now understand what he meant & have applied the tec to my last 2 DWC attempts! It defo works! Before the closest id get was 1"-2" but now its always around the 1mark maybe less, many more finer roots involved!Increased everything, but saturation of media does need consideration & accounted for!(power of pump & how many splashes/water & how close = saturation control, bigger output further away it Might have to be but that depends))
Works for me really well.Ive got alot of inspiration from the man Heath R, fair play, the airgap thing is bang-on & i now understand what he meant & have applied the tec to my last 2 DWC attempts! It defo works! Before the closest id get was 1"-2" but now its always around the 1mark maybe less, many more finer roots involved!Increased everything, but saturation of media does need consideration & accounted for!(power of pump & how many splashes/water & how close = saturation control, bigger output further away it Might have to be but that depends))
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NOT a recommendation but, I've done it into the 90s with no trouble. Keep the res simple and clean, avoiding all organics and additives. I restricted mine to tap water, GH FloraMicro, FloraBloom and pH Down.
statusquo
Member
I've never done hydro and haven't read very much on it but I got two ideas for you. Your problems stem from heat + lack of oxygen. Since it seems controlling the heat is the harder variable at this point, you should focus mainly on o2 and temps secondary (not ignored).
-Waterfalls. If you run some kind of water fall system this will add more o2 to your water than even a BEASTLY air pump. The amount of surface area the water gets with the environment increases drastically and so does the oxygen content in the water.
-h202 (hydrogen peroxide) as others have mentioned. Breaks down into water and o2 - in the right doses not harmful to the plants and keeps anaerobic bacteria @ bay.
-Add an intake fan that draws cool air from somewhere
-Use MH instead of HPS as MH bulbs are hotter but don't radiate heat as far/as much as HPS.
-Not sure if your water is exposed directly to the heat. If so cover it.
P.S. Unless the air temp of the room the tent is in is significantly lower, adding the fan and closing it up shouldn't result in an increase in temperature IMO. Also I remember a thread by some mod or super old timer showing how he was pulling off hydro grows at 82+F with no problems and explained why the "high temps automatically = problems" saying was slightly misleading. Maybe someone knows what I'm referring to lol. Anyways best of luck man I hope you figure something out!
Edit: ^lol I think it was freezer....what a coincidence! Also, it looks like you already employed 2 of my heat decreasing suggestions haha.
-Waterfalls. If you run some kind of water fall system this will add more o2 to your water than even a BEASTLY air pump. The amount of surface area the water gets with the environment increases drastically and so does the oxygen content in the water.
-h202 (hydrogen peroxide) as others have mentioned. Breaks down into water and o2 - in the right doses not harmful to the plants and keeps anaerobic bacteria @ bay.
-Add an intake fan that draws cool air from somewhere
-Use MH instead of HPS as MH bulbs are hotter but don't radiate heat as far/as much as HPS.
-Not sure if your water is exposed directly to the heat. If so cover it.
P.S. Unless the air temp of the room the tent is in is significantly lower, adding the fan and closing it up shouldn't result in an increase in temperature IMO. Also I remember a thread by some mod or super old timer showing how he was pulling off hydro grows at 82+F with no problems and explained why the "high temps automatically = problems" saying was slightly misleading. Maybe someone knows what I'm referring to lol. Anyways best of luck man I hope you figure something out!
Edit: ^lol I think it was freezer....what a coincidence! Also, it looks like you already employed 2 of my heat decreasing suggestions haha.
as long as you avoid organics and additive alchemy, high temps do not consitute root rot.
despite the popular census, pythium doesnt cause root rot- it sets in once your roots are dying/weakened. as long as you have ample aeration to your res and stay away from additives, organics, root rot will never be a concern.
i prefer my res to be at least 80f, but up to 90fs is tolerable at the sacrifice of slower growth.
despite the popular census, pythium doesnt cause root rot- it sets in once your roots are dying/weakened. as long as you have ample aeration to your res and stay away from additives, organics, root rot will never be a concern.
i prefer my res to be at least 80f, but up to 90fs is tolerable at the sacrifice of slower growth.
Its low O2 ppm levels & res solution temps. Temps any higher than 75+f promte Anerobic bacteria, especially in a low o2 environment. at 80f D'O levels are virtually non-existant & H2o2 would be the answer. 65-72f for max DO, anerobic bacteria dont like this environment. Pytheum is less & less of a problem these days but Anerobic bacteria can cause problems, & they just love 80f solution with Low DO, its more than ideal & a bigger threat. Funny enough ive just had a bacterial bloom in my res, PH dived & EC dived, so i knew after a few days of adding straight water what the issue was & have applied H2o2 with Nutes & PK only! i know it well!
best o Luck!
best o Luck!
illchemist
Member
I second Freezerboy and imadoofus. Keep it clean with no organics. Give it lots of O2 and you can even add a little peroxide for good measure. Change the tank regularly. GH Flora series is a very tolerant line.
Id try not to run 80+ temps in DWC mind(freeze bottles if you have to), just my opinion, if your going to know you will have high res temps, prevention is better than the Cure, H2o2 will look after you! with mineral ferts & zero organics! thats for soil really, organics in hydro is for an experienced hand for sure!
Nobody i know would recommend 80+ res temps in DWC, no D'O, not exactly the right way to do it!
use a root shield or Run H2o2 & even if your temps are a little high you should still be OK! Always think Max D'O(dissolved oxygen) for max nute uptake & best growth, hence 68-72f res temps)
best o luck
Nobody i know would recommend 80+ res temps in DWC, no D'O, not exactly the right way to do it!
use a root shield or Run H2o2 & even if your temps are a little high you should still be OK! Always think Max D'O(dissolved oxygen) for max nute uptake & best growth, hence 68-72f res temps)
best o luck
T
Tonka
Keep using the aquashield. That stuff works wonders in PREVENTING rot. Adding in H2O2 (peroxide) with aquashield may prove to be counterproductive because it might kill the bacillus subtilis (but I could be wrong).
T
Tonka
Lag your system ?
If you insulate your DWC buckets, Res and lines with reflective material, less light will hit the black plastic and heat the solution, preventing the problem rather than chasing a cure.
If you insulate your DWC buckets, Res and lines with reflective material, less light will hit the black plastic and heat the solution, preventing the problem rather than chasing a cure.
algae is completely harmless in hydro.
Depends what type of Algae it is, generally its not a good thing, if algae is growing in your DWC res, then you are doing something wrong, if your letting light into your res it can cause all sorts of problems. 'Brown Algae' will kill plants dead, starving & smothering roots with slime so they can not funtion. dreadfull stuff! theres a few threads on the subject here at IC.! that stuff doesnt need light to bloom either.
best of luck !
whats with the Blue roots? what type of Algae causes this then man? Roots grow better in a dark environment.
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no you're not...get back when you have some real ventilation.... a fan blowing into your tent will NOT make it...the temps will not increase with ventilation, they will decrease.
makes my day to help peeps, please heed!
fe precipitation
fe precipitation
Ive seen it precipitate under uv light but not ozone .A
fe precipitation
Im near the equator my flood drain 300 ltr res are 26 c i bubble a little ozone through them no root rot crystal clear water .I dont have any fe precipitate .
Ive seen it precipitate under uv light but not ozone .A
What you got on Chloramines !!! man? possibly harmfull i always thought, getting some contradictions what i'm reading, harmless/toxic etc.
Yeah, but I guess there are products for hydro systems which are chloramine or something like it, such as DutchMaster Zone.
harmful/toxic to plants or humans? They're toxic when concentrated but I don't think they harm the plants in diluted form. DM Zone and other products contain chloramines or chloramine derivatives AFAIK.
