res temps 80+, how to avoid root rot?
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What system are you using, i have a few tips! never used aquashield but i believe its good stuff & will sort you out some! preventatives are the best cures!
theres a whole host of things/products & measures you can take to keep the nastie pathogens at bay.(aquashield being just one of them)
80f+ is not good at all im affraid. if your doing hydro you need to drop that to 65-75f, 68-70f being optimal imo!
theres a whole host of things/products & measures you can take to keep the nastie pathogens at bay.(aquashield being just one of them)
80f+ is not good at all im affraid. if your doing hydro you need to drop that to 65-75f, 68-70f being optimal imo!
Whoops, sorry. It's DWC
I couldn't afford an air cooled hood on top of the light, tent, ro system and all the other random things. What's funny is the tent isn't even closed right now, I have the door completely open and a big oscilating fan blowing into it, res temps are still 80.
I will be adding a 265cfm dayton for exhaust, and 2 6" duct booster fans for active intake to try and help... but I predict the temps will only increase once I add those fans and close up the tent.
I imagine the res is getting warm because the buckets are black and the light is just sitting there slowly heating it all day.
Thought about adding some hygrozyme in there, not sure though.
I couldn't afford an air cooled hood on top of the light, tent, ro system and all the other random things. What's funny is the tent isn't even closed right now, I have the door completely open and a big oscilating fan blowing into it, res temps are still 80.
I will be adding a 265cfm dayton for exhaust, and 2 6" duct booster fans for active intake to try and help... but I predict the temps will only increase once I add those fans and close up the tent.
I imagine the res is getting warm because the buckets are black and the light is just sitting there slowly heating it all day.
Thought about adding some hygrozyme in there, not sure though.
Ursus
Active member
hydrozyme seems to me a big no no and for a lot of others because it seems to benefit brown algae. What are your EC,PH, and ppm levels? h202 seems magical for most root rot cases. However, I cant remember the dilution rate or something like 5ml per gallon?
BeaverHuntr
Member
I use 5 gallon sport coolers by Igloo a couple guys I know use big ass ice chests too.. My res temps never exceed 69 degrees even with the 1000W HPS running ..
A
alien12
get yourself a water ozonator, bubble it through twice a day for 20 minutes. Will kill pathogens like root rot.
Be aware that ozone dissolved in nutrient solution will affect Fe levels
At temps of 80 you need 30 plus litre of air per 5 gallons of water PER MINUTE
Be aware that ozone dissolved in nutrient solution will affect Fe levels
At temps of 80 you need 30 plus litre of air per 5 gallons of water PER MINUTE
Bonavendura
Member
Use large icepacks they are cheap it is hard work keep them coming but they work
and above all.......switch to hempy's buckets
http://www.towsure.com/category/6957-Thermos_Ice_Packs_and_Ice_Boards
and above all.......switch to hempy's buckets
http://www.towsure.com/category/6957-Thermos_Ice_Packs_and_Ice_Boards
newhiddengrower
Member
to avoid root rot with high temps, the only way is to pump alot of oxygen to the roots.
Hygrozyme needs to be used from day one or your gonna get problems, unless you innoculate with beneficial bacteria first off, then you can use the hygro at any time, just make sure you innoculate first with the bene's, or its very likely you get a BrownAlgae Bloom, the dreaded herpes hydro slime, not good. But i see a few growers who have problems with high temps in DWC & the Hygrozyme works well for them, of course they know how & when to use the stuff, it can be a danger if the measures i mention aint taken into account. If i was you id go with the bottle run like i told you in your other thread when you first had problems, that coupled with H2o2 & mineral ferts & your stella mate, believe!
Also as your man Bud there tried to point out, try putting a dedicated fan on your airpump so it keeps the fan & surrounding air going into your res cool, i always use a dedicated fan on my pumps, works a treat! could be as simple as adding a fan & setting it close to your Pump, pointing directly on it, it will help loads im sure!
Also as your man Bud there tried to point out, try putting a dedicated fan on your airpump so it keeps the fan & surrounding air going into your res cool, i always use a dedicated fan on my pumps, works a treat! could be as simple as adding a fan & setting it close to your Pump, pointing directly on it, it will help loads im sure!
Bonavendura
Member
Yes Lucas recommends 1 watt of air per gallon of course you cannot count air supply
by watt but it is something.You can also use a small fan blowing air above your water level this can cool down your water too.As for hygrozyme , h2o2 , silica and all this stuff i never used them and i survive 80F res temps with Icepacks only (not for long time)
by watt but it is something.You can also use a small fan blowing air above your water level this can cool down your water too.As for hygrozyme , h2o2 , silica and all this stuff i never used them and i survive 80F res temps with Icepacks only (not for long time)
1) Make sure there's an air-gap of a few inches between the bottom of your net pots and the water level. Believe it or not this helps.
2) Like people said, hydroguard
Somewhere buried deep here at icmag was a bit of info that could possible help thousands of growers but I can't find it, but it's not a unicorn, I did read it I really did. Anyway the guy had major problems with root rot and he had great success using pills meant to treat water for fish tanks. He just added it to his rez and never got rot again. So maybe ask your local fish store people what kind of pill will prevent bacteria but not harm aquarium plants.
By they way, the dwc grows that really have impressed me as far as growth were ones that were run hot because roots like a warmer temps over cold ones.
2) Like people said, hydroguard
Somewhere buried deep here at icmag was a bit of info that could possible help thousands of growers but I can't find it, but it's not a unicorn, I did read it I really did. Anyway the guy had major problems with root rot and he had great success using pills meant to treat water for fish tanks. He just added it to his rez and never got rot again. So maybe ask your local fish store people what kind of pill will prevent bacteria but not harm aquarium plants.
By they way, the dwc grows that really have impressed me as far as growth were ones that were run hot because roots like a warmer temps over cold ones.
'Anti Internal Bacteria' tablets i think JapanF. I have the Liquid but i know it comes in Tablet too, Contains Formaldehyde & Methanol believe it or not, Bronopol & Benzalkonium too & thats it. harmless to aquarium plants & fish, i think this is the stuff bro! Im looking at it now lol! (Maybe) i dont like the sound of it at all! not so sure its 100% safe for us/systemic contamination?
My thinking is a little different to you on some of those issues there bro but similar.
an Airgap of several inches will create cord roots as apposed to a mass of fine rice noodle like roots when a much smaller 1" or less airgap is observed, which i believe is much better all round, so im not so sure such a large airgap is required & will effect the type of roots that bare(but this would depend on Pump output imo, more output the bigger the gap can be), Heath Robinson changed my mind on this issue, before my thinking was the same as you bro. It was in his last thread on IC here i think, not so long ago & fair play his case all made sense at the time.
I run Tote(70 litre) 4 plant, sometimes 2 plant DWC & ive had the best & safest results with temps aimed at maximising D'O, as you'll know 68-70f is optimal here, although ive seen people do well with mid 70's low 80's too, but they all are running protectives against root pathogens(of course). Different Strokes for different Folks as they say! as long as the end result is stella, who cares! (H2O2 LOL)
Id just like to Thank you J'F for the back-up there in that other thread, that guy was an idiot for sure. I cant find a grow by him but he seems to have alot of rep bars for a fool, mind you there is planty of those with rep bars full around lol! Now i take no-notice of Rep, IC's Rep system is flawed imo!
Cheers JF......Peace & Respect..........Scroger!
My thinking is a little different to you on some of those issues there bro but similar.
an Airgap of several inches will create cord roots as apposed to a mass of fine rice noodle like roots when a much smaller 1" or less airgap is observed, which i believe is much better all round, so im not so sure such a large airgap is required & will effect the type of roots that bare(but this would depend on Pump output imo, more output the bigger the gap can be), Heath Robinson changed my mind on this issue, before my thinking was the same as you bro. It was in his last thread on IC here i think, not so long ago & fair play his case all made sense at the time.
I run Tote(70 litre) 4 plant, sometimes 2 plant DWC & ive had the best & safest results with temps aimed at maximising D'O, as you'll know 68-70f is optimal here, although ive seen people do well with mid 70's low 80's too, but they all are running protectives against root pathogens(of course). Different Strokes for different Folks as they say! as long as the end result is stella, who cares! (H2O2 LOL)
Id just like to Thank you J'F for the back-up there in that other thread, that guy was an idiot for sure. I cant find a grow by him but he seems to have alot of rep bars for a fool, mind you there is planty of those with rep bars full around lol! Now i take no-notice of Rep, IC's Rep system is flawed imo!
Cheers JF......Peace & Respect..........Scroger!
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The air-gap thing works but I don't think it's about the roots. I think that when the water level is high the medium gets wet from the bubbles and is a starting point for the rot. But I'm just guessing, all I know is that years back when I had a root rot problem (3 grows in a row) an older grower told me to lower the water level and that took care of it.
Success! Once I got my tent and put everything in it my res temps shot up to 27-29c! But, I have dropped it to a consistent 23-25c (74-76f) by putting a piece of black/white poly over the top of the bucket. I also put a small fan at the base of it and switched out the HPS for a CMH bulb, the CMH tends to 'throw' less radiant heat at the plants. I think the real winner in the trio was the white poly on the top of the bucket, but all helped. Thanks for your help fellas
Good work, Hope you can keep your temps that low. I'm right there with you in the mid to high 70's rez temps in my veg room. I have to say I was a bit skeptical at first but low levels of bleach are keeping everything clean and happy. I was having a bit of algea and root rot in my last drip run this summer when temps were 80+ in my rez. 2 doses of bleach and it was all but gone and way cheaper and easier than hydrogaurd which is I believe chloramine based.
Scrogger, I'm running with the water level just above the bottom of the net pot as recommended by Heath and root growth is much more even and prolific. Yet another bong toast to the master...HM
