Electrical help needed! Electricians please come in!

[Yes4Prop215]

^haha thanks man...these concepts are so simple when finally explained but before its like a total shot in the dark!

thanks for all the help rives seriously...got beans for you if you ever want em.

 

[RugerBaby]

you aint lying man! rives is a savior! lol

I hope this thread helps a lot of people out.

 

[Yes4Prop215]

so i went online and found a bunch of random sound equiptment that uses the 6-15p 240v plug whcih is the same on the ballasts i plan to use...so im gonna tell sparky that i need NEMA 6-15R outlets installed correct?

should he put both 240v plugs on one circuit or can he put a 240 and a 120 on the same 20amp circuit?

 

[rives]

so i went online and found a bunch of random sound equiptment that uses the 6-15p 240v plug whcih is the same on the ballasts i plan to use...so im gonna tell sparky that i need NEMA 6-15R outlets installed correct?

should he put both 240v plugs on one circuit or can he put a 240 and a 120 on the same 20amp circuit?

Sent you a pm. Use 6-20R receptacles, a 6-15 or 6-20 will plug into it. A 240 circuit requires a double-pole breaker and a 120 circuit a single pole, so no, they cannot be combined.

 

[allouez]

Standard North American wiring for 240 VAC 60 Hertz dryer electrical hookup (3 wire) is basically 2 separate "legs" of 125 VAC 60 Hertz, with 2 "hot" wires and 1 "return" wire -- no ground wire.

So it's not true that the 3rd wire is a ground? I was under the impression that the two hot wires do not use a neutral as they basically use each other as neutrals. You're saying that 6-15R and 6-20R receptacles aren't properly grounded?

 

[rives]

So it's not true that the 3rd wire is a ground? I was under the impression that the two hot wires do not use a neutral as they basically use each other as neutrals. You're saying that 6-15R and 6-20R receptacles aren't properly grounded?

The third wire is indeed ground. Check continuity between it and the dryer framework.

 

[SensiBC]

Well I built my controller, a 3-lighter. Was about to wire up the 240v input when I realized that the 12/4 I thought I had is actually 14 gauge. Since I'm only running two 600's and a 1000 on 240v with a 15 amp dual throw breaker I figure I should be good to go, but I figured I'd throw it out there in case anyone sees a fault in my plan.

 

[Tilt]

At 15 amps you should be good with the 14 awg. I would prefer 12 though. I would pig tail the load side wires together with a wire nut and take tails to the lugs too. You might have vibration noise fom mounting the relay to metal. Some rubber isolation grommets or washers will solve that.

 

[SensiBC]

Thanks for the insight. For my educations sake, why do you suggest that I pigtail the load wires? The screw terminals on the relay are large enough to accept all 3 wires and then some, and seem to be holding all of the wires very tightly. Not trying to second guess you or anything, just trying to learn.

 

[Tilt]

Its common practice. We don't whats called double stab under one lug. 1 lug 1 wire is the rule. A wire nut is designed to bring all the wires together in a tight circular continous bond. lugs are disigned to push to wire down and hold it in place. Sometimes that leaves 1 of the wires looser than the others thus a weak link

 

[RugerBaby]

ok, so I bought a 10-30 plug, but I have to wire it myself. On my 10/4 cord I have black, red, green, and white wires. Am I just gonna use the red, black, and green? Red and black on the "hot" wires and green on the L plug?

 

[rives]

Red and black on the "hot" wires and green on the L plug?

That works, snip the white off where it can't come in contact with anything on the plug end. Tape it off and stash it on the box end for possible future use.

 

[RugerBaby]

That works, snip the white off where it can't come in contact with anything on the plug end. Tape it off and stash it on the box end for possible future use.

awesome, thanks!

 

[dawolf]

Ditto! I'm an electrcian, well not anymore. Do you now have a convenience receptacle in the laundry room? Should have dryer,washer and convenience rec in laundry area. Is your ballast switchable? 120,208 etc etc? You can use 12 gauge, but 10ga. is fine. Don't use 14 though. The wire may get too hot depending what else is on the circuit. You can pig-tail it, but I wouldn't use/make a cord out of romex. You can do it, but you shouldn't. PM me if you still need help.

There is a bunch of erroneous and dangerous information in these posts. The dryer receptacle that you have has only (2) legs of 120 volts and a ground wire. You cannot run any 120 volt equipment off of this feed because the neutral is not present. It would be dangerous to use the ground wire in this receptacle as a full-time current carrying conductor. There will be absolutely no problem with grounding your ballasts - it should be considered mandatory. If you are going to use 240v equipment exclusively, then you can use this circuit. If you want any 120v gear, you will either need to run a new circuit or get it elsewhere. Any extension cord that you build that you want to run 120/240v off of has to be a 4-conductor cable (10/3 w/grnd in Romex terminology, or simply 10/4 if cord). If you can get by with only 240v, then you can use a 3-conductor cable (10/2 w/grnd in Romex or 10/3 in cord). Romex should not be used as an extension cord - I'm only giving examples of materials you might be familiar with.

 

[dawolf]

Ooops, I'm a little late to the dance, but if you still need help shoot me a PM.

 

[SensiBC]

Its common practice. We don't whats called double stab under one lug. 1 lug 1 wire is the rule. A wire nut is designed to bring all the wires together in a tight circular continous bond. lugs are disigned to push to wire down and hold it in place. Sometimes that leaves 1 of the wires looser than the others thus a weak link

Thanks, I never would have thought of that!

 

[RugerBaby]

alrighty, so I thought I had everything done today but went to test out the controller and NOTHING! My ballast doesn't turn on. I can hear the click from the relay but nothing turns on. I tested my dryer outlet with a multimeter and it read 230 volts. I have a pic of my controller. If somebody could help that would be great. I have no idea why the ballast is not turning on.

 

[RugerBaby]

BTW

Top Right Hole: 10/4 240v cord coming in from dryer outlet.
Bottom Right Hole: 120v power cord for the timer.
Top Left Hole: 6-20 receptacle to ballast.

 

[Tilt]

trouble shooting
1. 120v to trip cord
2. does coil activate closing the circuit 120v at coil
3. 230v at at relay on power coming in side
4. after coil activates 230v on side going to the 6-20r
5. 230v at 6-20r receptacle
if yes to all above it is the ballast

 

[RugerBaby]

Rives where are you?!?! lol