Electrical help needed! Electricians please come in!

[RugerBaby]

Hey all,

I ordered a 1000w digital hps a couple days ago, and need help figuring out the electrical side of things.

My current grow room shares a 15 amp breaker with another bedroom. Right now Im running a 600, and added up the total amount of amps being used in both rooms, which came out to 12 amps. With a 1000 I would overload the circuit!


I have a unused dryer outlet in the laundry room, which is about 40 ft away from the grow room.

I dont have any buddies that are electricians, nor do I want a stranger (electrician) in my house (in the middle of a grow). I was thinking about building or buying an extension cord, but What kind of wire would you guys recommend? Gauge? Or should I ditch the extension cord idea?

Any suggestions?

Thanks

 

[LastWaltz]

I would just run an additional plug out of your fuse box. They require 14 Gauge or larger, many homes are now being wired with 12 Gauge and is a safer choice. For the "extension cord" you would need 8-6 gauge wire but imho I wouldn't go with that idea. This is assuming you have space on your breaker panel, if you do it is really very simple to add a new circuit.

 

[Bigrick31]

Get a welding extension cord https://weldingsupply.securesites.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?Next::1:UNDEF:OR:terms::PA#A1. I dont believe they carry any 3 prong cords with the L shaped ground but you can change out your wall outlet very easily to match any welding cord you get. Just make sure to turn the power off and test to make sure its off first other than that its easy!

 

[mdk ktm]

Thats basically how I wire my grow rooms, just go buy 4 wire 8 gauge that is all together, so you dont need conduit. Then you can add more lights!

but you will have to wire the power into a timer, that then goes to receptacles.

 

[StealthDragon]

I think you can just run an RV extension cord..I think they're kinda pricey though, this is assuming you don't want to wire anything.

 

[stagehand099]

Ruger, I responded in your earlier thread and gave you a link to a DIY 4 light controller that is so simple its child's play to build. Did you look at it? It cost me less than $80 to build, in one afternoon. As I said before, I knew nothing about how to do this stuff and I just bought the stuff, followed the instructions and it works perfectly. Its a lot safer to build one of these (correctly, of course) than to run on an overloaded circuit and risk fire. Here is the link again:

http://www.hydroponics.net/learn/grow-light-controller.asp

If you can't do it yourself, just buy one of the Sentinels or the C.A.P. 30 amp dryer controllers and be done with it.

stagehand

 

[RugerBaby]

Ruger, I responded in your earlier thread and gave you a link to a DIY 4 light controller that is so simple its child's play to build. Did you look at it? It cost me less than $80 to build, in one afternoon. As I said before, I knew nothing about how to do this stuff and I just bought the stuff, followed the instructions and it works perfectly. Its a lot safer to build one of these (correctly, of course) than to run on an overloaded circuit and risk fire. Here is the link again:

http://www.hydroponics.net/learn/grow-light-controller.asp

If you can't do it yourself, just buy one of the Sentinels or the C.A.P. 30 amp dryer controllers and be done with it.

stagehand

ok, but what if the dryer outlet is 40 ft away from the grow room?

 

[RugerBaby]

So I went out to Home depot and picked up a basic wiring book. It's not as complicated as I thought. I want to extend the 30 amp dryer outlet circuit to my grow room.

So if I was to build this 4 light controller http://www.hydroponics.net/learn/grow-light-controller.asp

I would just need to buy a compatible receptacle, correct?

Also, I would use 10/2 cable, correct?

Any help is appreciated.
Thanks!

 

[RugerBaby]

Brain fart! I would just use the same receptacle I have already!

 

[stagehand099]

Are you sure you have 240v ballasts? Does your house have an accessable attic or crawl space? Do you still need to use the dryer receptacle to dry clothes?

Yes, you would use 10/2 with a ground wire. Should be a black, a white, and a green wire. You will need only to buy the relay/contactor from Greentrees Hydroponics ($30.00 + shipping). The rest you can get locally. Essentially, you will be taking a 40' piece of wire and putting a 30 amp dryer plug to match your dryer receptacle on one end. Run it to the room however. On the other end you will building a box which contains the contactor and is wired with 3 or 4 240v receptacles and is operated by a cheapo 110v digital timer. The hardest part is drilling the holes in the 6" X 6" box. And that ain't that hard.

The DIY and pictures explain everything very well and, like I said before, I (and others, I'm sure) will help you if you have problems.

Answer my questions about running the cable and we can go from there. I would use SO type (outdoor) 10/2 w/ground cable if you are running it in the crawlspace. Really, I'd use it regardless for protection from moisture. Its more expensive, but worth it, IMO.

This ain't rocket science and you will be so proud of yourself when you get it done!

go for it.

stagehand

 

[David762]

Your 1000W ballast may not like not being grounded, especially if it's electronic. Having a large load (20 - 30 Amp) on any electrical equipment with only a "floating" ground is frankly dangerous (potential for electrocution).

Standard North American wiring for 240 VAC 60 Hertz dryer electrical hookup (3 wire) is basically 2 separate "legs" of 125 VAC 60 Hertz, with 2 "hot" wires and 1 "return" wire -- no ground wire. If there were a ground wire, the dryer electrical outlet would be 4 wire, not 3 wire. The dryer's current (ampere) load is balanced evenly between the 2 "legs" of 125 VAC 60 Hertz. Often a dryer will use a separate bare stranded ground wire between the dryer chassis and a cold water pipe, but that is not necessarily the same "ground" potential as the ground wire inside your electrical (breaker) panel. YMMV.

It is possible to run a ground wire to a separate grounding rod (4 foot copper clad steel rod, with 3-1/2 feet driven into the ground locally), but there is a high likelihood of having a substantial "ground loop" (ground voltage differential) between equipment on that circuit and equipment with a shared ground at the breaker box.

Ideally, you would run new wiring all the way back to your breaker box. Assuming that you have a double row of breakers in the breaker box, and have 1 left-hand and 1 right-hand slot free, you could add 2 125 VAC 15 Amp breakers to the box, 1 for each 125 VAC "leg" (to keep loads balanced between "legs"). With metal conduit and 2 long lengths of 10/3 Romex cable, it would be a "professional grade" albeit more expensive permanent solution.

I presume that the 40+ foot distance from the dryer electrical outlet to where you need power is still closer than from the breaker box to your grow room. If you don't need a permanent solution, I would make an extension cord with 1 or even 2 circuits (4 outlet box) and make use of a local grounding rod -- not quite as elegant, but decidedly cheaper.

A 40 foot long extension cord might represent a substantial voltage drop, so you will want to use 12 gage or even 10 gage wire. The local ground wire to earth ground should be single wire 12 gage and no less than 14 gage for a short 10 foot run to that grounding rod. Hopefully, you have either access to an exterior wall, or access to the crawl-space to drive in that grounding rod.

Good luck with your endeavor.

 

[RugerBaby]

Your 1000W ballast may not like not being grounded, especially if it's electronic. Having a large load (20 - 30 Amp) on any electrical equipment with only a "floating" ground is frankly dangerous (potential for electrocution).

Standard North American wiring for 240 VAC 60 Hertz dryer electrical hookup (3 wire) is basically 2 separate "legs" of 125 VAC 60 Hertz, with 2 "hot" wires and 1 "return" wire -- no ground wire. If there were a ground wire, the dryer electrical outlet would be 4 wire, not 3 wire. The dryer's current (ampere) load is balanced evenly between the 2 "legs" of 125 VAC 60 Hertz. Often a dryer will use a separate bare stranded ground wire between the dryer chassis and a cold water pipe, but that is not necessarily the same "ground" potential as the ground wire inside your electrical (breaker) panel. YMMV.

It is possible to run a ground wire to a separate grounding rod (4 foot copper clad steel rod, with 3-1/2 feet driven into the ground locally), but there is a high likelihood of having a substantial "ground loop" (ground voltage differential) between equipment on that circuit and equipment with a shared ground at the breaker box.

Ideally, you would run new wiring all the way back to your breaker box. Assuming that you have a double row of breakers in the breaker box, and have 1 left-hand and 1 right-hand slot free, you could add 2 125 VAC 15 Amp breakers to the box, 1 for each 125 VAC "leg" (to keep loads balanced between "legs"). With metal conduit and 2 long lengths of 10/3 Romex cable, it would be a "professional grade" albeit more expensive permanent solution.

I presume that the 40+ foot distance from the dryer electrical outlet to where you need power is still closer than from the breaker box to your grow room. If you don't need a permanent solution, I would make an extension cord with 1 or even 2 circuits (4 outlet box) and make use of a local grounding rod -- not quite as elegant, but decidedly cheaper.

A 40 foot long extension cord might represent a substantial voltage drop, so you will want to use 12 gage or even 10 gage wire. The local ground wire to earth ground should be single wire 12 gage and no less than 14 gage for a short 10 foot run to that grounding rod. Hopefully, you have either access to an exterior wall, or access to the crawl-space to drive in that grounding rod.

Good luck with your endeavor.

wow! way over my head! lol


Lamens please.. lol

 

[rives]

There is a bunch of erroneous and dangerous information in these posts. The dryer receptacle that you have has only (2) legs of 120 volts and a ground wire. You cannot run any 120 volt equipment off of this feed because the neutral is not present. It would be dangerous to use the ground wire in this receptacle as a full-time current carrying conductor. There will be absolutely no problem with grounding your ballasts - it should be considered mandatory. If you are going to use 240v equipment exclusively, then you can use this circuit. If you want any 120v gear, you will either need to run a new circuit or get it elsewhere. Any extension cord that you build that you want to run 120/240v off of has to be a 4-conductor cable (10/3 w/grnd in Romex terminology, or simply 10/4 if cord). If you can get by with only 240v, then you can use a 3-conductor cable (10/2 w/grnd in Romex or 10/3 in cord). Romex should not be used as an extension cord - I'm only giving examples of materials you might be familiar with.

 

[PuReKnOwLeDgE]

I would extend your 30 amp plug to your room, and plug in one of these.

http://cgi.ebay.com/30-Amp-Timer-Bo...656?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a500bff20

Also, I would hook up a MDT-1 for your timer functions, but espeacially for safety features.

http://cgi.ebay.com/SENTINEL-MDT-1-...086?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f0140c2fe

This will allow you to run up to a 4k room off your 30 amp plug.

 

[RugerBaby]

Are you sure you have 240v ballasts? Does your house have an accessable attic or crawl space? Do you still need to use the dryer receptacle to dry clothes?

Yes, you would use 10/2 with a ground wire. Should be a black, a white, and a green wire. You will need only to buy the relay/contactor from Greentrees Hydroponics ($30.00 + shipping). The rest you can get locally. Essentially, you will be taking a 40' piece of wire and putting a 30 amp dryer plug to match your dryer receptacle on one end. Run it to the room however. On the other end you will building a box which contains the contactor and is wired with 3 or 4 240v receptacles and is operated by a cheapo 110v digital timer. The hardest part is drilling the holes in the 6" X 6" box. And that ain't that hard.

The DIY and pictures explain everything very well and, like I said before, I (and others, I'm sure) will help you if you have problems.

Answer my questions about running the cable and we can go from there. I would use SO type (outdoor) 10/2 w/ground cable if you are running it in the crawlspace. Really, I'd use it regardless for protection from moisture. Its more expensive, but worth it, IMO.

This ain't rocket science and you will be so proud of yourself when you get it done!

go for it.

stagehand

1.Actually I have 120v ballasts but was thinking about using the 240v cord. (they are switchable ballasts) But the 120v is fine.

2.yes, I have both a crawl space and attic. Would it be better to run the cable through the attic?

3. No, I dont use the dryer receptacle. I currently have a 120v Gas dryer


and I believe David said something about my ballast may not like being grounded? Possible electrocution?

 

[rives]

1.Actually I have 120v ballasts but was thinking about using the 240v cord. (they are switchable ballasts) But the 120v is fine.

2.yes, I have both a crawl space and attic. Would it be better to run the cable through the attic?

3. No, I dont use the dryer receptacle. I currently have a 120v Gas dryer


and I believe David said something about my ballast may not like being grounded? Possible electrocution?

Read my post above. The ballasts need to be grounded to avoid the possibility of electrocution.

 

[RugerBaby]

quick question...


can I just remove my 30 amp double pole breakers, and install a single pole 30 amp breaker with a regular 2 oultet 120v receptacle?


EDIT: I plan on running 2k watts in the future and that will be the max I'll ever run. If I can do this, i'll just buy a light controller and add the new receptacle.

 

[rives]

quick question...


can I just remove my 30 amp double pole breakers, and install a single pole 30 amp breaker with a regular 2 oultet 120v receptacle?

No, standard 120 volt receptacles are rated at either 15 amps or 20 amps. The breaker needs to be the weakest link in the chain so that it protects downstream devices. In this case, you would need either a 15 or a 20 amp breaker.

 

[sci-fi]

do plan on running your new 1k at 120v or 220v? How about any plans on future upgrades to room? If you plan on running it on 120v i would just slap a 20 amp breaker in you box and run some 12-2 romex to a new receptacle. if you plan on running 220v or doing future upgrades how much is your budget? Also be careful that if you decide to run 220 of a dryer that you DO NOT hook up the neutral(white) wire to your ballast.

 

[rives]

From what I see here, if you don't need any 120v equipment on this circuit (do you have plug circuits available in the grow room?), the best option would be for you to build an extension cord out of a minimum of 10/3 or better yet, 8/3, SO or SJ cord. You could then run one end of the cord straight into the light control box (with appropriate strain relief) that you have the link for. The other end would receive a dryer plug like the one that you have. This would take care of all of your lighting needs, now and in the future. If you need 120v circuits, you are in for some more work.