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Nomaad OD:2010

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
ive noticed the hort likes to shimmy down the stalks after a spell. next year ill be bambooed up like your set up. i like the zip tie to rebar method you used there. good shyte.


edit- Trinity, bacteria foliars like spinosad, serenade and bti should be good to spray up to harvest yeah?

should be btK this time of year... I have just done my last round of regular BTk foliars... I have only been doing the tops and waiting for eavening with a nice breeze. We spray the plants in the last hours of sun, which is nowfiltered by some trees. Might do one more if there is another perfect evening.

We messed up this year with our second layer of trellising. Instead of just loosely draping it over the top, we cinched it in around the base and pullind in the excess. It was a waste of energy. Next year we will loosely drape in a manner that allows you to pull the trellis out if need be and secure it to bamboo ho hold it out as needed. Yeah... the Hort shimmies and the plants always stretch more than I expect them to..especially the fucking PC.

The bamboo you see in that shat was what happens when you start connecting bamboo rods. Its addictive and fun. Bamboo hold a special place in my heart in the same way that hemp/cannabis do... its a plant with multiple powerful aspects that serve environmental responsibility and a sustainable future. Its fun to see both plants used in unison.



Any chance you'll take some closeups of some of the frostier buds forming?

I will... Blazing sun is not the best conditions in which to take budshots and I rarely have a chance in the evening, but I will do my best to get some good shots. Certainly in a couple of more weeks when things get really photogenic.

Nomaad: What is safest to spray for pest control late in flower? Have you found spinosad to be effective against mites? I question it only because mites being suckers does not quite jive with its method of destruction (as per some manufacturers information). Azamax? Neem seems pretty safe, and I am thinking this is one of the active components but without the oils that may affect taste...? Any recommendations? No troubles outside, but the the greenhouse is going to get buggy without some help.

I do not have bad mites, nor have I used Spinosad specifically against mites. I have been using Azatrol/Azamax for mites in veg with great success, even when having received buggy cuts. I do not use it in flower.

We did our last monthly Spinosad application about 2 weeks ago. It keeps the thrips at bay and hopefully has contributed to a caterpillar free season.

I don't spray anything on the buds once they start forming because my patients ingest the buds. It is good to have all of your problems taken care of before flowering gets to thick. I have a certain amount of acceptable losses when it gets late. :tiphat:

Trinity Gold said:
They both work the same way but when you look at the packaging and see what you're applying when you lay down MycoStop (spore per gram) versus Actinovate..it just makes sense to go with MycoStop if you already have a problem with plants in the ground...Actinovates price point just makes it much nicer to mix in by the yard in the spring before any problems start.

word. makes sense.

Both of these posts support the point that the more shit you get out in front of, the more successful your growing will be.

thanks for the kind words, put in a wood burning stove to dry it out fast, and a dehumidifier, moved our plants to better use the heat and added more circ fans and a vent fan. raining everyday and humidity is 93%. inside still about 65%. i will say we have zero p.m. and the mold came out of nowhere, ive been playing catch up since. good luck to you all!! thanks for your help and im out til next yr, unless i have something positive to post with the cinx and dreams. later :tiphat:

aw man... so sorry to hear this. you boys in Oregon need to get with Esbe and the other Scandinavian growers and get some better mold resistant, early finishing strains. Or just grow Mr. Nice. You;d be done by now.

I feel like this year, in my area, we're barely skirting the edge of the comfort zone of a lot of these genetics we run in terms of mold resistance. I can only compare this year to last, but most of the worries I am having now were not even considerations at this time last season.

Really made me want to try it myself, but I'm wondering if each pathogen requires a very specific nutrient source. Might set things back a bit.

Please explain this in greater detail.
 

fisher15

classy grass
Veteran
Looking huge nomaad. I bet your place is smelling dreamy.

I find its nice if you can secure at least the final layer of hortonova to something, to help prevent toppling. Either by attaching it to T posts around the plant, or even just zip tying it to the planter.

Would be cool to see a pic from your roof.
 

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
A couple of pages back I think I mentioned a large branch on one Blue Dream had wilted. The entire plant has succumbed to rot. It was our smallest plant, always scrawny and shaded, doing weird things to try and get more sun. 3% crop loss (based on plant numbers) and counting.

The 100g pack of Mycostop came today. I'll apply 15g in the first two waterings and then 15 grams once a week till its gone.
 
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nomaad

Active member
Veteran
Would be cool to see a pic from your roof.

2010_0923-033.jpg


2010_0923-043.jpg


last year. i promise that this is the last comparison to last year, but i couldn't help myself.
2009_1003-Garden-002.jpg
 
Y

Yankee Grower

Holy crap what a difference a year makes when you pay attention and work hard! The plants even look healthier regardless of size.

Kudos brother :)
 
Wow, those plants are amazing, you are truly mastering MMJ growing, I send thanks for all the knowledge that you shared throughout these grows. You deserve a standing ovation and an award for the largest growth of operation from one season to the next. Happy Harvesting!!!
 

niluola

Member
That is just astounding. I stand in awe. Tap yourself on the shoulder once for me too :)! Braa-voo! Thank you for sharing, there is so much to be learned from this thread.
 

Cannasseur

Member
Please explain this in greater detail.

TBH, I'm not too familiar with culturing microbes. So I really can't tell you too much more. My current college is fairly underfunded, we don't really attempt to isolate any of the pathogens in pure culture.

Edit:
Here's a link to a 'Plant Disease Lab' offered by Michigan State University, maybe this will give you a better idea than I can myself.
 

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
and nightmares!

2010_0925-040.jpg


The above plant was our smallest Blue Dream. Here was the blunder: It spent most of the season in the shade, but received as much water as a plant 3x its size in full sun. The number of emitters on the pot should have been reduced to account for its spindliness and the shade. The pots were consistently too wet and therefor breeding grounds for the pathogens that killed her.

2010_0925-053.jpg


The above male is Dutchgrown's Witches Weed Pheno 1 from Ganja D. The more vigorous of the two he gave me. The intention is to pollinate the Cough (SSSC NL5xHaze) to bring back the 13 week finishing time. WW is advertised as a 45 day finisher, i think.

My question is whether this looks ready to be put in a paper bag with a branch and exactly how I would go about this.... and when, if not now. This is my first attempt at chucking pollen and I'm a little nervous. Any advice would be appreciated.

The weather outlook for the next 15 days is excellent. Back up into the 90's for a couple of days and then sunny and 80's forecast till October 9. Each morning I refresh the forecast and another bright yellow orb has appeared each day... Last year the first serious weather came on October 12. So far, so good. Last year, the Dream came down on the 24th and had zero mold problems.

here she is in her current state... I have to get better at shooting things while hanging off a 12 foot ladder. I might have to move back to the idiot proof point/shoot camera I was working with last year.
2010_0925-004.jpg
 
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Y

Yankee Grower

Yeah that male is ready enough. I've only collected pollen and hand applied. If you put the male flowers in a paper bag then shake the bag while over the branch pretty good and that's enough if you wanna go that route.

Normally what I do is cut off the flowering male tops and stick in small cup of water with the tops hanging over the edge of the cup mostly then put on plate and let sit in the dark for a day or so then collect the pollen that drops and apply.

All next week I'll be basking under that same sun. You want a tutorial for pollen application?
 

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
Let me get this straight. I cut off the top, which in the case of this plant is the entire 10 inches above the dirt level of the 3.5inch pot. I take that top and put it in water, in the dark on a plate and the pollen will drop onto the plate. Will the closed male flowers open? Some seemed to have popped already (i accidentally had them in the semi dark yesterday all day)...

How long is the pollen viable? I have a cool dark garage to do this in. I could also collect the pollen and store it. I don't think there will be all that much of it, but again, I have never done this before. Thanks for the quick assist, YG.
 
Y

Yankee Grower

You got bigger pics of that male?

Mainly interested in seeing it's overall structure.
 
Y

Yankee Grower

Let me get this straight. I cut off the top, which in the case of this plant is the entire 10 inches above the dirt level of the 3.5inch pot. I take that top and put it in water, in the dark on a plate and the pollen will drop onto the plate. Will the closed male flowers open? Some seemed to have popped already (i accidentally had them in the semi dark yesterday all day)...

How long is the pollen viable? I have a cool dark garage to do this in. I could also collect the pollen and store it. I don't think there will be all that much of it, but again, I have never done this before. Thanks for the quick assist, YG.
Yes the more mature pods will open and you'll also get a bit of a drop from the stuff that opened recently especially if you shake it a bit.

Pretty sure you told me you got a small guy so would not expect much structure to have developed above ground. You can also now cut off the flowering portions, stick in a bag, put over a branching wanting some fun, shake, let settle a bit then remove and you'll get beans.

If pollen is collected and stored properly it'll keep for months. Mainly you'd want to remove ANY plant material, let dry a bit, then properly package for freezer storage and you can mess with it down the road.

At the least that male looks happy and I'm looking at the blade teeth pointing up a bit so tells me pH is about perfect. Also indicative of good manganese absorption, which I guess can be genetic, but that characteristic seems to be affected by medium pH.
 

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
I could probably make a pretty effective pollen catcher out of a shiny paper plate from my son's birthday party... Then I just use a brush to pick it up off the plate and applie it to the flowers on the Cough Mom? I'd love a tutorial, but its going to get hot over the next two days and I want to just use any pollen as it is collected.

What about just lopping off the top, cutting into two sections and putting it in two paperbags, one on the cough and one on the Blue Dream... flour in the bag too?
 
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