Strange Slime buildup on roots

[richyrich]

Oh, that question was for a quick dunk, but what about a longer application of H2O2?

It was stated somewhere that if you were going to the dangerous option of using an enzyme to break down dead roots, you had to make sure that the organic material you were making available was not being consumed by the bad guys.

What are the concentration levels of H202 for 35%, 29%, and 3% per gallon in case? I know it would be a lot less than the dunk.

I have written down that it was 2ml/gallon of H2O2 35% to start off with, and then you add more H2O2 every 3 days.

When people write "a handful", "a scoop", or "a tad", it makes me break out in hives. I have no reference point, and I am completely unsure if my "tad" matches their "tad". I have been told mine is unusually larger.

I have not idea on the quick dunk amount, but I would never use the amount you listed. I have only ever used 35% at 1-2mL per Gallon long term use in a rez.

 

[richyrich]

RichyRich,

For your 4 gallon formula for EWC tea that is in your signature, how many milliliters would you recommend of unsulfured molasses in place of carboload? I just can't pay Advanced prices for things. Would 50 ml be a good starting point?

Is a handful about 250 ml roughly? I see MrWeekend used three cups, to equal your 3 handfuls. Is a scoop about 5 ml roughly? I see MrWeekend used about that amount. Am I thinking too big or too small for these amounts.

I don't have Aquashield, I have Companion which is straight thick Bacillus subtilis. I am using 5 ml in place of the 20 ml of Aquashield because Companion is so concentrated.

Same amount for molasses. I would say a handful is a cup. Really, you can use as much as you want, but it gets to a point where too much is pointless so 2 - 3 cups is just fine.

 

[richyrich]

RichyRich,

What bio-filter do you like better? The one you made yourself from the 2 inch pipe or the one from Lowes?

The Lowes one looks easier to deal with during rez changes. It cant run dry from the design of it it seems.

The one from Lowes. It is much simpler.

 

[BenjaminSocks]

Thanks, you cleared up a lot of fuzzy areas in my notes.

 

[Ninjaaa]

Hi guy, last week I transplanted my rooted clones in to net pots filled with hydroton and installed drip system to support plant till roots get fully developed for DWC setup, today I checked them out and I saw, that there are some green alge developing on clay and the worst part green mold developing on roots and I smelled the pot and it stinks like molde, root, I oppend them up and saw no root developmen except one so I had to throw 5/6 away, no problem with that, but Im intersted in why this happend, any idea and how to prevent this from happening again...

thx

 

[t33to]

Hi guy, last week I transplanted my rooted clones in to net pots filled with hydroton and installed drip system to support plant till roots get fully developed for DWC setup, today I checked them out and I saw, that there are some green alge developing on clay and the worst part green mold developing on roots and I smelled the pot and it stinks like molde, root, I oppend them up and saw no root developmen except one so I had to throw 5/6 away, no problem with that, but Im intersted in why this happend, any idea and how to prevent this from happening again...

thx

From my experience anytime you mix light+nutes you get algae. If it stinks like mold and such it could also be because there was spores or bacteria somewhere in your system. So if you didn't bleach/disinfect your hydroton, pumps, pipes, airstones, airlines or anything else chances are you will end up with some kind of root rot. Also if you water temps get too warm you greatly increase the chance of giving algae/rot a change to grow.

Your water also needs plenty of oxygen, use a waterfalll or airstones to oxygenate your water. Waterfalls are better than airstones in my experience, I don't even use airstones anymore.

Also, some nutrients, especially low quality ones are prone to have bacteria and spores already in them. I'm referring to the mycorrhizae root tonic style ones. I once put Advanced Nutrients Pirahna in my dwc rez and I had the worse case of root rot 2 days later... I stay away from Advanced Nutrients now, but since then I haven't found the guts to try another mycorrhizae additive. Hope that helps man.

 

[PuReKnOwLeDgE]

anyone here have any advice for this stem rot?

Post here:

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=191750

 

[OMountainMix]

We rinse our hydroton really well and then bake for a couple of hours at 500 degrees. Never had a problem by doing that.

 

[cyberwax]

A question about teas, are aquarium teas any viable option after physan threatment?

I have no local hydrostores and the best option i could come up with was this " easy life, easystart", wich apparantly is an bacterial combi system. I mean why shouldnt it work? right?

And yes i can verify that physan 20 kills your res-herpes, i used 1ml pr 40liters of water, ran it for about 20 hours. Result is coming up as i experience it.

Some info on easystart below. (according to the makers, however Aquastart is a highly respected brand within the aquanics(lol) and i suspect they wouldnt be allowed to operate nor provide goods to that many stores without actually having some good products)

------------------------------------
Easy-Life Easystart (Aquastart) contains highly active bacteria cultures which will quickly give aquariums and filters a boost. The unique bacteria carrier ensures an accelerated increase in useful bacteria, helping to combat the actions of harmful bacteria as well as cleaning the water of heavy metals and other chemical pollutants. The result of the application of Easy-Life Easystart (Aquastart) is a healthy aquarium with lively and brightly coloured fish.

Application of Easy-Life Easystart (Aquastart):
For starting aquariums and filters: add 10 ml of 50 l of aquarium water on day 1, day 7 and day 14. The cloudiness of the water will disappear after a couple of hours.

Day 1: 10 ml per 50 l of water
Day 7: 10 ml per 50 l of water
Day 14: 10 ml per 50 l of water
------------------------------------

Any thoughts?

 

[Bluenose510]

NEVER SEEN THAT BEFORE

 

[cyberwax]

Got ths email from Physan:
2. Control of pathogens in the water system during growing activities:

Use 1 teaspoon Physan 20 concentrate for every 15 gallons of water every other week.

oh hell i missed this post, perhaps another go with physan is in order. And does this mean we can actually use physan 20 throughout, however probably not recommended but possible?[4 hours later edit] I did exchange the res and added the recommended ammount(3 times as much as i initially used on first run), and now i can really see how the roots white up, and i suspect another 12 hours of this and the roots will all be white. Im seeing newformed root structures but im unsure if they have formed since the latest application of physan but im keeping fingers crossed. Now if someone can give their 5 cents on the aquarium culture bottle i previously mentioned and it'l be a merry christmas.

 

[cyberwax]

Alright; a little update, the roots whitened up but the plants suffered and wilted alittle, so after some hours of physan20 bubbling i exchanged the water and not even 24 hours later the slime returned :|

One giant "fuuuuck" later i, (no, not a sexual one)

Moved my shit into soil, will cure it in about 5-7 days, atleast thats how long it took last time(a year ago or so). Today i've been in the process of cleaning out my grow area, new tubs and all that, ordering beneficials online and keeping a closer look at my clones from now on, i believe the problem initially started there. 51% neglect, 49% evil algae swarm.

Also i could probably have cured the plants if i went alittle stronger on the dosage(i used 1ml pr 10 liter) and left it there alittle longer but then my plants would have suffered and recovery time would be estimated to weeks. So my advice to anything/anyone battling this shit, if you see the signs, especially on younger plants/clones, just go soil and save yourself the time and just try again. Also im not sure how to best make use of the physan in the res, i had 3 bubblestones but the foam wernt really soaking my roots, they get sprayed on by the misters, im sure better effect could be achieved if the roots bathed in the foam as most algae products must have added air to work properly.

Hopefully i wont be back in this thread to whine as my beneficials will probably tip the scale in my favour.

 

[onegreenday]

I'd consider the Physan as a last resort.

The Pythoff & Hydrosparkle should control
this slime easily without resorting to Physan.

Pythoff is proven &
Hydrosparkle is the new guy & uses a different method
that sounds better.

I have both the Pythoff works.
I went back to dirt for the moment
so can't say for sure on hydrosparkle.

oh hell i missed this post, perhaps another go with physan is in order. And does this mean we can actually use physan 20 throughout, however probably not recommended but possible?[4 hours later edit] I did exchange the res and added the recommended ammount(3 times as much as i initially used on first run), and now i can really see how the roots white up, and i suspect another 12 hours of this and the roots will all be white. Im seeing newformed root structures but im unsure if they have formed since the latest application of physan but im keeping fingers crossed. Now if someone can give their 5 cents on the aquarium culture bottle i previously mentioned and it'l be a merry christmas.

 

[GrumpyGrower]

this site, fungi.com, sells a powder that contains a huge collection of microbes for only $6 per oz.

The product includes,

Endomycorrhizal fungi
Glomus intraradices, Glomus mosseae, Glomus aggregatum, Glomus clarum, Glomus deserticola, Glomus etunicatum, Gigaspora margarita, Gigaspora brasilianum, Gigaspora monosporum

Ectomycorrhizal fungi
Rhizopogon villosullus, Rhizopogon luteolus, Rhizopogon amylopogon, Rhizopogon fulvigleba, Pisolithus tinctorius, Laccaria bicolor, Laccaria laccata, Scleroderma cepa, Scleroderma citrinum, Suillus granulatas, Suillus punctatapies

Trichoderma Trichoderma harzianum, Trichoderma konigii

Beneficial Bacteria
Bacillus subtillus, Bacillus licheniformis, Bacillus azotoformans, Bacillus megaterium, Bacillus coagulans, Bacillus pumlis, Bacillus thuringiensis, Bacillus stearothermiphilis, Paenibacillus polymyxa, Paenibacillus durum, Paenibacillus florescence, Paenibacillus gordonae, Azotobacter polymyxa, Azotobacter chroococcum, Sacchromyces cervisiae, Streptomyces griseues, Streptomyces lydicus, Pseudomonas aureofaceans, Deinococcus erythromyxa

Looks like they offer a more diverse microbe collection than even great white, and for dirt cheap. Seems to good to be true, any thoughts?

Also noted that the hydro application they sell contains nothing but the glomus fungi. I know the glomus increase root mass and water uptake, so that makes sense, but I wonder why they leave out everything else? Maybe because in a typical hydro setup they don't expect you to want to break down organic material or fight off disease? Perhaps some of these microbes may cause clogging in the more intricate hydro setups? In any case, I think for the purposes of the tea we want the more diverse product.

 

[kstampy]

So how many people got away with just UV in the cloner? I priced it around 200 clams to get all the stuff for the tea which is the equivalent to good UV sterilization. Just wonderin, thanks!

 

[KennyPowers55]

Read this thread start to finish yesterday, didn't go to bed until 430 am. Thanks to all the posters that have helped to inform and prevent this problem.

Its been awhile since anyone has updated. It seemed like things were pushing in the direction of it being in the water, meaning that UV sterilization on the way in would take care of the problem. Any thoughts/updates on what you guys have been up to?

Thanks for all the work!!

 

[jarff]

Read this thread start to finish yesterday, didn't go to bed until 430 am. Thanks to all the posters that have helped to inform and prevent this problem.

Its been awhile since anyone has updated. It seemed like things were pushing in the direction of it being in the water, meaning that UV sterilization on the way in would take care of the problem. Any thoughts/updates on what you guys have been up to?

Thanks for all the work!!

Great thread...well worth the long read...Seems a lot of ppl. solved their problems or went onto other things.I got onto this thread close to the start and my problem was easy to fix as I was introducing Hygrozyme too early to the fert routine.When i threw the zyme away never seen root rot since.I was lucky.But after solving problem I eventually went to dirt to grow trees,but am going to build a water system and get back to the water in a few months time.Once you get a water system tweaked in proper I find there is less work too it,and due to health problems I just don,t have the strngth anymore to be wrestling around 10 gallon soil pots...Like the old saying goes "a change is better than a rest"..
Perhaps some ppl. will pop into this thread when they see a couple new posts...It was an eye opener for many ppl.
btw. I did install a whole house UV system along with a good RO filter system and I feel relatively safe starting with water again even tho the water didn,t seem to be my original problem...better safe than sorry
good luck

jarff

 

[ItsGrowTime]

UV has worked for me to clear up the slime issue. The $60 aquarium version at Petsmart has worked great! All my plant water goes through the UV before it comes near my girls.

 

[avant gardener]

hey all!

in the wake of a nasty root aphid infestation:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=4527833#post4527833

my rez temp also shot up to the high 70's for a day and a half.
now i've got the rot.



i use gh micro, and i unerstand that some of the discoloration is from staining, but this is hardly normal.

the aphids have been nuked and the temp is stable at around 70˚.
my best idea now is to cut out the most affected parts of the root mass and to do a h2o2 root dunk (i'm in aero) and then load up on the hygrozyme to eat out what rot remains.

here is my question:
CAN ANYONE TELL ME THE PROPER DILUTION FOR H2O2 TO GET THIS JOB DONE?!?

THANKS!

 

[avant gardener]

ok. did a little homework and answered my own question.

treatment: removed bad root sections, dipped in h2o2 @ 15 ml/gallon (29%).
added a dose of hygrozyme, roots excel, and silica.

prevention/maintenance: i've added physan 20 in a very low concentration (1 ml /10 gallons of nutes).

things are moving along nicely now.
THANKS!