lmfao, "clean organic GH 3-part"
Nomaad OD:2010
- Thread starter nomaad
- Start date
Good strategy. I am pre-purchasing a lot of things for 2011.
very sorry to hear this, hogan. I am seeing more Pm much earlier this season, but that is the extent of it, so far. No appreciable Botrytis, and because of the daily caterpillar check, I think we're as on top of it as we can be.
This has been a very cool season, compared to last. The spring was wet and cold and early september has seen lots of temps in the 70's, some cloudy days and way higher average humidity. I know in my bones we are not out of the woods yet. Not by a longshot. I will be running a lot of earlier genetics next year as a hedge against the late season working out entirely in my favor.
I am particularly worried about the two Bubbas who were pruned heavily against PM and now have lots of left-over petioles that will potentially instigate budrot. It will be the next thing we tackle after the current workload is handled.
I trellised the Pineapple Cough way too early... she stretched thru all of august and into the first 10 days of September. My biggest plant is not, as you might expect, a Blue Dream, but rather a Pineapple Cough at the middle of the garden, making it nearly impossible to photograph. I need an aerial shot like in HL's thread. Its not as tall as the Blue Dreams but its still 10 feet tall and wider than anything else out there...
Big plants=big worries.
I would just use Mycostop in the soil and for the foliar.
lol.
I'm going to have to do more research into how to conduct the simple experiments I'd like to do. Right now I'd like to be able to identify pathogens and hit them with the various beneficial micro-organisms I have at my disposal. Also, look at my soil before and after inoculations for levels of pathogens. Of course, I have never done anything like that before... I'm going to have to read up on basic biology and soil biology. The winter reading list grows.
T
Trinity Gold
I just wanted to let you know that you can get a CD of various bacteria and fungi in the soil that you can brew in a tea brewer from www.microbeorganics.com ...the $600 scope is also THE scope to own...Rock on
PS> you use the cd which has high grade images to compare to what you see under the scope
PS> you use the cd which has high grade images to compare to what you see under the scope
Y
Yankee Grower
For your second year doing this you're absolutely killing it.
BrotherGanja
Member
Strongly Agreed you are putting a pretty high bar for yourself for next year
I wish you the best Nomaad.
sweet.
i have been looking at the scopes on that site since you originally posted it early in the season... do you know of some kind of adapter for the third eyepiece that can be hooked up to a DSLR?
T
Trinity Gold
Just send him an e-mail and tell him what you want and he will hook you up. Dude has spent so much money testing basically every scope
Just got this from Agbio about Mycostop.
Morgan at EcoGreenWarehouse said you had concern over shipping. We have
been the prime distributor in U.S. since Mycostop was registered in 1995.
Mycostop is shipped to us from Verdera/Finland non-refrigerated. Typically
a 7-10 day shipment. There is no requirement to ship on ice. We have never
shipped on ice and we supply a couple of dozen dealers in the U.S. It is
shipped US Priority Mail or 2nd day, depending on distance.
For long term storage it should be frozen.
They have 25g packages at that spot. I canceled my order with them because they don't ship on ice and then found 100g bags with my other distributor- much more cost effective.
Morgan at EcoGreenWarehouse said you had concern over shipping. We have
been the prime distributor in U.S. since Mycostop was registered in 1995.
Mycostop is shipped to us from Verdera/Finland non-refrigerated. Typically
a 7-10 day shipment. There is no requirement to ship on ice. We have never
shipped on ice and we supply a couple of dozen dealers in the U.S. It is
shipped US Priority Mail or 2nd day, depending on distance.
For long term storage it should be frozen.
They have 25g packages at that spot. I canceled my order with them because they don't ship on ice and then found 100g bags with my other distributor- much more cost effective.
OMMPatient
Member
Actinovate vs. Mycostop?
Actinovate vs. Mycostop?
Nomaad:
Are you saying that the general consensus about Actinovate is that it is ineffective against Botrytis when used as a foliar spray? What about for PM when applied in a foliar spray? If so, I do see your point on just using the Mycostop.
Best of luck holding off the fungus amongst us!
Actinovate vs. Mycostop?
Nomaad:
Are you saying that the general consensus about Actinovate is that it is ineffective against Botrytis when used as a foliar spray? What about for PM when applied in a foliar spray? If so, I do see your point on just using the Mycostop.
Best of luck holding off the fungus amongst us!
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I don't have any experience upon which to base an opinion. So, if there is a general consensus on it, I'm am not party to it.
I will have a real opinion about these products when I have a scope and have learned how to use it.
TG: any background on why you think Actinovate is a wasted effort unless mixed into the soil mix? In what way does Mycostop work That Actinovate does not?
I will have a real opinion about these products when I have a scope and have learned how to use it.
TG: any background on why you think Actinovate is a wasted effort unless mixed into the soil mix? In what way does Mycostop work That Actinovate does not?
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Our smallest Pineapple Cough is on the right.
Average sized Blue Dream.
Thanks for the props. Its a great improvement on last year in every way. Next year there will be small tweaks here and there. More preemption against pathogens and better sculpting of the Blue Dream to encourage more of those massive Blue Dream tops. I pinch here and a bendo over there should do the trick. Lesson learned. I should not have relied on the advice entirely and tried both paradigms in this year's garden.
Be. More. Experimental.
sierrahippy
Member
Monsters!
so bad ass to watch you kill it.
so bad ass to watch you kill it.
T
Trinity Gold
They both work the same way but when you look at the packaging and see what you're applying when you lay down MycoStop (spore per gram) versus Actinovate..it just makes sense to go with MycoStop if you already have a problem with plants in the ground...Actinovates price point just makes it much nicer to mix in by the yard in the spring before any problems start.
I've heard different on shipment of mycostop from verdera...you will also notice a difference in the packets that have been improperly stored (it'll be clumpy and hard instead of a easy to dissolve fine powder)
I don't recommend foliar spraying plants right now with actinovate OR mycostop..who wants to smoke fungus spores? not me..
I've heard different on shipment of mycostop from verdera...you will also notice a difference in the packets that have been improperly stored (it'll be clumpy and hard instead of a easy to dissolve fine powder)
I don't recommend foliar spraying plants right now with actinovate OR mycostop..who wants to smoke fungus spores? not me..
localhero
Member
you are owning it this year nomaad!
ive noticed the hort likes to shimmy down the stalks after a spell. next year ill be bambooed up like your set up. i like the zip tie to rebar method you used there. good shyte.
edit- Trinity, bacteria foliars like spinosad, serenade and bti should be good to spray up to harvest yeah?
ive noticed the hort likes to shimmy down the stalks after a spell. next year ill be bambooed up like your set up. i like the zip tie to rebar method you used there. good shyte.
edit- Trinity, bacteria foliars like spinosad, serenade and bti should be good to spray up to harvest yeah?
G
guest4098
Nomaad: What is safest to spray for pest control late in flower? Have you found spinosad to be effective against mites? I question it only because mites being suckers does not quite jive with its method of destruction (as per some manufacturers information). Azamax? Neem seems pretty safe, and I am thinking this is one of the active components but without the oils that may affect taste...? Any recommendations? No troubles outside, but the the greenhouse is going to get buggy without some help.
T
Trinity Gold
I don't spray anything on the buds once they start forming because my patients ingest the buds. It is good to have all of your problems taken care of before flowering gets to thick. I have a certain amount of acceptable losses when it gets late.
thanks for the kind words, put in a wood burning stove to dry it out fast, and a dehumidifier, moved our plants to better use the heat and added more circ fans and a vent fan. raining everyday and humidity is 93%. inside still about 65%. i will say we have zero p.m. and the mold came out of nowhere, ive been playing catch up since. good luck to you all!! thanks for your help and im out til next yr, unless i have something positive to post with the cinx and dreams. later
Cannasseur
Member
Lookin' great nomaad, but I didn't honestly expect any less.
The other day in class, we were discussing isolating and then culturing pathogens in a laboratory setting. While everyone else in the room fought sleep, it got me so pumped. Nothing more riveting than petri dishes and agar.
Really made me want to try it myself, but I'm wondering if each pathogen requires a very specific nutrient source. Might set things back abit.
The other day in class, we were discussing isolating and then culturing pathogens in a laboratory setting. While everyone else in the room fought sleep, it got me so pumped. Nothing more riveting than petri dishes and agar.
Really made me want to try it myself, but I'm wondering if each pathogen requires a very specific nutrient source. Might set things back abit.
