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someday I will try one of these. What is the normal veg time to get a monster like these 4 month veg?
jdkronyk101
Active member
the powdery mildew(caused by h20/rain) thing is actually a myth. it is killed upon contact/exposure with water. if you have p.m. your cuts most likely came with it in the first place, or possibly blew over or rode over on a friend or neighbor, as well as came in on you after you saw it in his garden ect. either way it has finished its dormancy and decided to fruit. the rain falling before hand would actually be coincidence. but grey mold for sure . botrytis is a rain lover. and actually proliferates the emerald triangle because it is actually used purposefully in the grape fields...makes the wine sweeter(kings rot). they infect the grapes on purpose. this can be very detrimental if you are in windshot of the winery.
hope that seperates the myth from fact.
bless,
j.d.
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Sir Schranzalot
Member
your gardes are lookin awesome guys 
I'm impressed every time I look in this thread I wish I could grow like that
I'm impressed every time I look in this thread I wish I could grow like that 
BrotherGanja
Member
Wow,
I beg to differ in opinion, Water does NOT kill PM, that is why they have several products out on the market to get rid of it. Also countless books that say otherwise. I was amused at your poor grammar calling it a Powdery Mildew thing, poor description of the subject. You are correct when you say that the cuts could have had PM before you got them, but water is not the solution. I had squash plants from seed that got powdery mildew from top watering it when it had several hours of shade, we had to take it out so it didn't spread. You present no evidence that says that water kills PM. That is a fact.
Oldmanriver
New member
Killing PM with water...yes ...try it !
Killing PM with water...yes ...try it !
The fruiting body of powdery mildew is what we're dealing with here.
Don't believe me or anyone else. Do this yourself. On initial exposure to water nothing happens. Plants which are rained on have it all the time. You need to submerge the affected material for a substantial time for the water to dissolve the fruiting body. It hates to be drenched, but doesn't mind water falling on it.
Soak plants for an hour ( submerged )
Use hose sprayer with fine strong mist to blast affected area
Rinse
Do this again.
PM gone.
Trichomes survive just fine.
Use a strong loop or magnifier and watch the stuff dissolve. Get it real wet. Get it wet again. and again. You will see it literally dissolve.
Don't believe me....learn something...when YOU do it you know it's true.
Killing PM with water...yes ...try it !
The fruiting body of powdery mildew is what we're dealing with here.
Don't believe me or anyone else. Do this yourself. On initial exposure to water nothing happens. Plants which are rained on have it all the time. You need to submerge the affected material for a substantial time for the water to dissolve the fruiting body. It hates to be drenched, but doesn't mind water falling on it.
Soak plants for an hour ( submerged )
Use hose sprayer with fine strong mist to blast affected area
Rinse
Do this again.
PM gone.
Trichomes survive just fine.
Use a strong loop or magnifier and watch the stuff dissolve. Get it real wet. Get it wet again. and again. You will see it literally dissolve.
Don't believe me....learn something...when YOU do it you know it's true.
C
coxswain
PM loves damp, closed settings and if temperature is just about right it explodes. I had some C99 on balcony with a roof last year. Perfect conditions for PM. Enclosed, damp place with pour air circulation. Spring time unleashed PM in all it's power. Summer was to hot for PM to occur. Came back in fall but temps were to low.
My guerrilla plants were fine though. I'm guessing more air circulation helped. I also believe rain helps. Imagine 4 days of constant rain. It washes away PM.
My guerrilla plants were fine though. I'm guessing more air circulation helped. I also believe rain helps. Imagine 4 days of constant rain. It washes away PM.
localhero
Member
PM likes it dry and shaded. the water bath solution sounds good though for harvest. I'd have two 55 gal drums, one for the bath and one for the rinse. anythings worth a try when pm ruins the party.
I will say, the best medicine is to not get it in the first place, and for that i owe a HUGE debt of gratitude to Tom Hill and his calcium Rx. last year i was slaughtered by PM, this year NOTHING. the tomatoes, yes. the grapes, yes. the ganja, NO. I was skeptical that all it would take is foliars of the cal and lots of gypsum, i had it so bad last year it looked like it snowed. but once again, Tom youre the man.
now if theres something organic to rid my plants of the bud rot thats sneaking up on my ladies...
I will say, the best medicine is to not get it in the first place, and for that i owe a HUGE debt of gratitude to Tom Hill and his calcium Rx. last year i was slaughtered by PM, this year NOTHING. the tomatoes, yes. the grapes, yes. the ganja, NO. I was skeptical that all it would take is foliars of the cal and lots of gypsum, i had it so bad last year it looked like it snowed. but once again, Tom youre the man.
now if theres something organic to rid my plants of the bud rot thats sneaking up on my ladies...
FillthePotmore
Member
Powdery Mildew Epidemic
Powdery Mildew Epidemic
All powdery mildew fungi infect the plant tissue by sending hollow tubes from a spore on the leaf surface into the plant to suck out nutrients. The growth then forms in a radius from the initial point of inoculation, and after about four days, spores start forming, produced in chains on upright stalks. The spores are what actually give the powdery effect, and when they become airborne they can spread the fungus rapidly. On perennial hosts such as roses, fruit trees and soft fruits, the mildew may survive from season to season in infected buds; special spores are also produced to enable the fungus to overwinter in lettuce, peas and certain other crops. Unlike most fungi, powdery mildew spores do not need water for germination. Some species require high humidity, but the moisture provided at the leaf surface when cold nights change to warm days or when plants are grown in crowded, low or shady locations without sufficient air circulation is sufficient to initiate an epidemic.
The most favorable conditions for powdery mildew are nighttime temperatures of 60F and relative humidity of 90 to 99%, with 80F temps and 40 to 79% relative humidity during the days -- conditions common in late spring and early fall. Since the spores are sensitive to extreme heat and direct sunlight, plants in partial shade are especially vulnerable.
What experience and information do my fellow icmag members have with the following three products? Potassium Bicarbonate has been somewhat effective against Powdery Mildew...
Green Cure:
Potassium bicarbonate is an effective fungicide against powdery mildew, allowed for use in organic farming
GreenCure® is highly effective against powdery mildew on roses and other ornamentals. GreenCure can be used in the garden to prevent or cure powdery mildew on tomatoes, pumkins, cucumbers, grapes, apples, herbs and more.
EXEL LG: systemic fungicide, containing 48% mono and di-potassium salts of Phosphorous Acid,
Exel LG (Lawn & Garden) is a broad spectrum systemic fungicide for turf, fruit trees, ornamentals and flowers. An earth-friendly product, Excel LG is an environmentally responsible
alternative to traditional chemical fungicides. Exel LG prevents and controls a myriad of plant diseases, including those that cause root rot, leaf and stem blights, leaf spots and many others! A systemic product, it has a foliar or root application that will work its way throughout the entire plant to prevent disease and attack existing disease above and below ground. Once inside the plant, Exel increases plant metabolism so plants grow faster, bloom more and have an increased yield. Excel is nutritional too, giving a boost of potassium and phosphorous, essential nutrients for plant growth.
Biological Fungus Control
Treats up to 550 plants or 5,000 sq. ft. of turf!
Enhances plant vitality
Encourages larger root systems
Controls soil-borne plant diseases such as Pythium, Rhizoctonia, Phytophthora, Verticillium, Fusarium and others.
Control & Supress Grey mold, Brown patch, Take-all patch, Powdery mildew, Root rot/damping off, Black spot, Leaf spot and rust, Fire blight, and more.
OMRI Listed
2 Oz. Packet
Powdery Mildew Epidemic
All powdery mildew fungi infect the plant tissue by sending hollow tubes from a spore on the leaf surface into the plant to suck out nutrients. The growth then forms in a radius from the initial point of inoculation, and after about four days, spores start forming, produced in chains on upright stalks. The spores are what actually give the powdery effect, and when they become airborne they can spread the fungus rapidly. On perennial hosts such as roses, fruit trees and soft fruits, the mildew may survive from season to season in infected buds; special spores are also produced to enable the fungus to overwinter in lettuce, peas and certain other crops. Unlike most fungi, powdery mildew spores do not need water for germination. Some species require high humidity, but the moisture provided at the leaf surface when cold nights change to warm days or when plants are grown in crowded, low or shady locations without sufficient air circulation is sufficient to initiate an epidemic.
The most favorable conditions for powdery mildew are nighttime temperatures of 60F and relative humidity of 90 to 99%, with 80F temps and 40 to 79% relative humidity during the days -- conditions common in late spring and early fall. Since the spores are sensitive to extreme heat and direct sunlight, plants in partial shade are especially vulnerable.
What experience and information do my fellow icmag members have with the following three products? Potassium Bicarbonate has been somewhat effective against Powdery Mildew...
Green Cure:
Potassium bicarbonate is an effective fungicide against powdery mildew, allowed for use in organic farming
EXEL LG: systemic fungicide, containing 48% mono and di-potassium salts of Phosphorous Acid,
Exel LG (Lawn & Garden) is a broad spectrum systemic fungicide for turf, fruit trees, ornamentals and flowers. An earth-friendly product, Excel LG is an environmentally responsible
- Biostimulant
- Preventative & Curative
- Nutritional
Biological Fungus Control
Treats up to 550 plants or 5,000 sq. ft. of turf!
Enhances plant vitality
Encourages larger root systems
Controls soil-borne plant diseases such as Pythium, Rhizoctonia, Phytophthora, Verticillium, Fusarium and others.
Control & Supress Grey mold, Brown patch, Take-all patch, Powdery mildew, Root rot/damping off, Black spot, Leaf spot and rust, Fire blight, and more.
OMRI Listed
2 Oz. Packet
BrotherGanja
Member
I have used a potassium bicarbonate product called Kaligreen which seem to be effective, but it burned a plant cause of poor dilution so it can burn your plants very easily.
localhero
Member
havent used any of those products. heres what ive used and my coresponding experience:
1- diluted milk- only sprayable thing to make pm dissapear. it comes back though.
2- hydrogen peroxide- useless
3- low/high phed water- useless
4- k+neem - turned hairs brown, useless
5- micronized sulfur - hard to say this was a preventative meassure after seeing white spots on leaves that turned out to be cal 25 residue.
6- sulfer burner (indoors) - ROCKS. the only thing that really works. sprays can never fully cover an entire plant, not to mention the walls and cracks and crevices where the pm spores are waiting to fuck you. whenever i get new cuts i turn the bathroom into a sulfer fogged hot box and let em have it. tip- foliar water your plants before you burn. ive even taken in cuts with obvious pm showing (the outdoor og i have running right now in fact) and given them the sulfer treatment. GONE.
7- microbe lift BMC - this is a bacteria, i was told it was bein used by greenhouse mega grows (cabbage or something) to destroy the PM spores that lay dormant in the soil. so i use it, also OWNs fungus gnats.
8- Toms calcium regiment(preventative) - works. no pm on my plants this year outside.
I combine 6,7,8 and have been pm free for a while now. a note on the BMC, who knows if its true but i was told pm hibernates and waits for the right conditions to proliferate. at a certain point when something works and youre using several methods of control it can be hard to pinpoint which one is the odd man out. it could be the BMC, but im not gonna stop using it to find out. i hope its eating the dormant spores resting and waiting in the soil, breaking the pm life cycle but who knows.
one more thing. from my experience i dont think PM is systemic in a plant, otherwise it would just keep coming back no matter what you do. and if youre outside and its showing and youre late in flower, sorry but you are most likely totally fucked. i would try the dunk in water method before i trashed or hashed.
1- diluted milk- only sprayable thing to make pm dissapear. it comes back though.
2- hydrogen peroxide- useless
3- low/high phed water- useless
4- k+neem - turned hairs brown, useless
5- micronized sulfur - hard to say this was a preventative meassure after seeing white spots on leaves that turned out to be cal 25 residue.
6- sulfer burner (indoors) - ROCKS. the only thing that really works. sprays can never fully cover an entire plant, not to mention the walls and cracks and crevices where the pm spores are waiting to fuck you. whenever i get new cuts i turn the bathroom into a sulfer fogged hot box and let em have it. tip- foliar water your plants before you burn. ive even taken in cuts with obvious pm showing (the outdoor og i have running right now in fact) and given them the sulfer treatment. GONE.
7- microbe lift BMC - this is a bacteria, i was told it was bein used by greenhouse mega grows (cabbage or something) to destroy the PM spores that lay dormant in the soil. so i use it, also OWNs fungus gnats.
8- Toms calcium regiment(preventative) - works. no pm on my plants this year outside.
I combine 6,7,8 and have been pm free for a while now. a note on the BMC, who knows if its true but i was told pm hibernates and waits for the right conditions to proliferate. at a certain point when something works and youre using several methods of control it can be hard to pinpoint which one is the odd man out. it could be the BMC, but im not gonna stop using it to find out. i hope its eating the dormant spores resting and waiting in the soil, breaking the pm life cycle but who knows.
one more thing. from my experience i dont think PM is systemic in a plant, otherwise it would just keep coming back no matter what you do. and if youre outside and its showing and youre late in flower, sorry but you are most likely totally fucked. i would try the dunk in water method before i trashed or hashed.
H
humboldtlocal
this is a hugh spot...are the plants are big as in the first pix.....great!!
jdkronyk101
Active member
id like to start off by saying ...nice pics from the air guys...puts it into perspective...lol
i find it funny that you would take it so personally as to bash my grammer ...lol...many times folks make quotes with no facts,for that i apologize .....maybe i should rephrase----
it is a myth that pm is caused by water(humidity doesnt help but actual contact of water is not a cause). most/almost all species of p.m. actually prefer a perfect enviroment, low light areas and a lack of air circulation.there is plenty of evidence out there already. while botrytis on the other hand is actually caused by moist conditions. powdery mildew can lay dormant inside/on your cuts for over six months waiting for the proper conditions to fruit(in nature it can actually sit out the entire winter).
henceforth the only way you can get it can not be caused by watering from the top(as you quoted) . your plants most likely already had it,or your neighbor has his mildew infested plants too close to the property line.not to mention many possible other culprits such as blackberries,many hedges, and squash(your squash) in close proximity to your garden to name a few. nowhere in my post did i suggest that water was the solution(could cause botrytis). i suggested that it clearly wasn't the cause.
heres some facts:
" Wind carries powdery mildew spores to new hosts. Although relative humidity requirements for germination vary, all powdery mildew species can germinate and infect in the absence of free water. In fact, water on plant surfaces for extended periods inhibits germination and kills the spores of most powdery mildew fungi. Moderate temperatures of 60° to 80°F and shady conditions generally are the most favorable for powdery mildew development. Powdery mildew spores and mycelium are sensitive to extreme heat and sunlight, and leaf temperatures above 95°F may kill the fungus."
---u.c.davis
as well as:
"Cultural Practices
Shade and moderate temperatures favor most powdery mildews. Locate plants in sunny areas as much as possible, provide good air circulation, and avoid excess fertilizing or use a slow-release fertilizer. Overhead sprinkling actually may reduce the spread of powdery mildew, because it washes spores off the plant. Also, if spores land in water, they die. The best time to irrigate is mid-morning, so plants dry rapidly, reducing the likelihood of infections by other fungi, such as ones that cause rust or black spot on roses. As new shoots begin to develop on perennial plants, watch closely for signs of powdery mildew."---- u.c.davis
heres the link :
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7493.html
also proving this true is the fact that systemic applications of fungicide/controls are the only way to completely rid it from your garden. covering it with h202/sodium bicarbonate/sulfur ect...ect... while all great "remedies" they are destroying only the fruit of the fungus, which is its final stage of life.they do this by changing the ph of the leaf surface causing unfruitable conditions.
thats why the hi brix/calcium preventive program as talked about in this forum by most of the guru's here is the "total control" . to get a plant so healthy that it cant be "seeded" by the spores of that dreaded fungus. this is actually the best way to prevent your neighbor from giving it to you.but if you unknowingly already have it, it may actually seem as if it was caused by this or that(top watering/rain).
but if you dont already have it, it would be very unlikely that the rain actually caused,or could cause it.
the water myth is very common i only meant to elaborate. i also apologise for all bad grammer lol....
carry on lads,
j.d.
i find it funny that you would take it so personally as to bash my grammer ...lol...many times folks make quotes with no facts,for that i apologize .....maybe i should rephrase----
it is a myth that pm is caused by water(humidity doesnt help but actual contact of water is not a cause). most/almost all species of p.m. actually prefer a perfect enviroment, low light areas and a lack of air circulation.there is plenty of evidence out there already. while botrytis on the other hand is actually caused by moist conditions. powdery mildew can lay dormant inside/on your cuts for over six months waiting for the proper conditions to fruit(in nature it can actually sit out the entire winter).
henceforth the only way you can get it can not be caused by watering from the top(as you quoted) . your plants most likely already had it,or your neighbor has his mildew infested plants too close to the property line.not to mention many possible other culprits such as blackberries,many hedges, and squash(your squash) in close proximity to your garden to name a few. nowhere in my post did i suggest that water was the solution(could cause botrytis). i suggested that it clearly wasn't the cause.
heres some facts:
" Wind carries powdery mildew spores to new hosts. Although relative humidity requirements for germination vary, all powdery mildew species can germinate and infect in the absence of free water. In fact, water on plant surfaces for extended periods inhibits germination and kills the spores of most powdery mildew fungi. Moderate temperatures of 60° to 80°F and shady conditions generally are the most favorable for powdery mildew development. Powdery mildew spores and mycelium are sensitive to extreme heat and sunlight, and leaf temperatures above 95°F may kill the fungus."
---u.c.davis
as well as:
"Cultural Practices
Shade and moderate temperatures favor most powdery mildews. Locate plants in sunny areas as much as possible, provide good air circulation, and avoid excess fertilizing or use a slow-release fertilizer. Overhead sprinkling actually may reduce the spread of powdery mildew, because it washes spores off the plant. Also, if spores land in water, they die. The best time to irrigate is mid-morning, so plants dry rapidly, reducing the likelihood of infections by other fungi, such as ones that cause rust or black spot on roses. As new shoots begin to develop on perennial plants, watch closely for signs of powdery mildew."---- u.c.davis
heres the link :
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7493.html
also proving this true is the fact that systemic applications of fungicide/controls are the only way to completely rid it from your garden. covering it with h202/sodium bicarbonate/sulfur ect...ect... while all great "remedies" they are destroying only the fruit of the fungus, which is its final stage of life.they do this by changing the ph of the leaf surface causing unfruitable conditions.
thats why the hi brix/calcium preventive program as talked about in this forum by most of the guru's here is the "total control" . to get a plant so healthy that it cant be "seeded" by the spores of that dreaded fungus. this is actually the best way to prevent your neighbor from giving it to you.but if you unknowingly already have it, it may actually seem as if it was caused by this or that(top watering/rain).
but if you dont already have it, it would be very unlikely that the rain actually caused,or could cause it.
the water myth is very common i only meant to elaborate. i also apologise for all bad grammer lol....
carry on lads,
j.d.
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T
Trinity Gold
JD not every one understands we're high as fuck rednecks from the back woods...It's OK bro. See you soonish?
PM is ridiculous to . If you gave your plants the right diet they wont be able tog et it
PM is ridiculous to . If you gave your plants the right diet they wont be able tog et it
jdkronyk101
Active member
lol.... h.a.f. rednecks....hey thats my next tatoo!!
this stuff/knowledge is relative both inside and out.
i think the the preventive medicine being taught here in toms forum is actually some of the most important and available true and free info in this community period...the brix levels, use of fungal inoculants in the medium,all organic living medium,compost teas,complete understanding of the problems(molds,pests), and controlling them naturally and completely(no cough syrup remedy)...well... i mean its so back to the old school, yet its scientifically the new school.fuckng awesome.and all the different instructors/colleagues we have chiming in.they leave nothing in the dark, you couldnt pay for a better education...
well super important stuff in here...period... nuff said
i should be out there for the rain this weekend.ill keep ya posted!
bless,
j.d.
T
Trinity Gold
What rain the sky is blue as fuck!
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