yep i dont know shit really, just love speculating !!
What do these need?
- Thread starter FinestKind
- Start date
yep i dont know shit really, just love speculating !!
Cannasseur
Member
Wasn't meant to be directed toward you, you made a simple suggestion and that is not the root of my disagreement. I just am not fond of the idea of making recommendations for a control, when the problem has not been properly identified.
I know it for a fact smokey/Finestkind. Cannasuer, the problem has been identified. Ive looked at this disease now on dozens of plants and lost 1/2 my crop to it last year and it hit me again this year. If FinestKind screws around a few more days, he can start hunting for a source to buy weed from this winter because it will defoliate the plants completely within a week or 2. No leaves = no growth and then wilt and death..
I know this disease fellows, im not guessing and finestkind needs to hurry..
Finestkind, the Liquid copper is omri listed and approved for organic gardening. According to studies, no residue can be detected 14 days after the last application, regaurdless of the number of applications that have occurred prior to discontinuance. I too have read the concerns about phytotoxicity, especially during flowering. But i started with the lightest dosage(.5 tbsp.) with 7 days between treatements, but quickly increased the dose to 2 ozs per gallon, with a 4 day interval between sprays. YOur plants will probably neen 3 treatments, 4 days apart. Every plant ive treated is in full flower.
The real issue is this finestkind, because its the question i had to answer myself. Are you going to use the Liquid Copper, or are you going to let the plants die. They will.
I know this disease fellows, im not guessing and finestkind needs to hurry..
Finestkind, the Liquid copper is omri listed and approved for organic gardening. According to studies, no residue can be detected 14 days after the last application, regaurdless of the number of applications that have occurred prior to discontinuance. I too have read the concerns about phytotoxicity, especially during flowering. But i started with the lightest dosage(.5 tbsp.) with 7 days between treatements, but quickly increased the dose to 2 ozs per gallon, with a 4 day interval between sprays. YOur plants will probably neen 3 treatments, 4 days apart. Every plant ive treated is in full flower.
The real issue is this finestkind, because its the question i had to answer myself. Are you going to use the Liquid Copper, or are you going to let the plants die. They will.
Cannasseur
Member
Take a look at his OP, 2 tbsp of Plant Tone (5-3-3) mixed globally into the soil is just not enough N for these heavy feeders to sustain their entire lifetime. In my experience, 30 - 40 days after the initial planting is when the plants start undergoing N deficiencies. This time is typically when I start supplementing soluble N.
I'm not saying that your PERSONAL identification is invalid, but I would say it's pretty bold to go out identifying (from a post online more specifically) and giving advice about something you just experienced for YOUR first time. I see no random necrotic spots or lesions that indicate a leaf spot pathogen, only uniform chlorosis (yellowing).
I'm not saying that your PERSONAL identification is invalid, but I would say it's pretty bold to go out identifying (from a post online more specifically) and giving advice about something you just experienced for YOUR first time. I see no random necrotic spots or lesions that indicate a leaf spot pathogen, only uniform chlorosis (yellowing).
Finestkind, all strains dont respond the same to the disease. My blue hash plants hardly have it while white widows and biddy early's are eaten up with it. They were the first strains to get it and are clearly very succeptable to it. My sensi stars have it, but it doesnt seem to be overtaking them.
i understand your concern Cannasuer and in most cases, i would agree with you. The problem with this leafspot/blight is that it defoliates the plant so quickly that by the time the grower has guessed about ferts and root infections - i went through them all- and then tried neem and other less traumatic treatments, the plants have defoliated to the point that even if you spray and get the disease under control, the plant has been damaged to the point that yield is greatly effected. Last year, i had plants that should have produce 12 ozs that produced 2 .
Here's what happens with the liquid copper. If you spray when you first see leaves yellowing, its 100% effective and the plant is unharmed.
If you wait until the plants have 5-8 bright yellow leaves, you have to spray 1x and a few days later another dose. At this stage, the plant will loose about 1/2 of its leaves before the disease comes under control. This is the stage Finestkind is currently in.
If many leaves are yellow when you spray and there are some dead, brown ones, it takes 3 treatments to stop the fungis but the plant is damaged and its yeild diminished considerably.
I know it was a quick fire, but its because i recognize his leaves as having the fungis and because it damages the plant so quickly that i immediately recommended he spray. If its the same fungis that i have,and i think it is, his time is running short. He's about to enter stage 3
i understand your concern Cannasuer and in most cases, i would agree with you. The problem with this leafspot/blight is that it defoliates the plant so quickly that by the time the grower has guessed about ferts and root infections - i went through them all- and then tried neem and other less traumatic treatments, the plants have defoliated to the point that even if you spray and get the disease under control, the plant has been damaged to the point that yield is greatly effected. Last year, i had plants that should have produce 12 ozs that produced 2 .
Here's what happens with the liquid copper. If you spray when you first see leaves yellowing, its 100% effective and the plant is unharmed.
If you wait until the plants have 5-8 bright yellow leaves, you have to spray 1x and a few days later another dose. At this stage, the plant will loose about 1/2 of its leaves before the disease comes under control. This is the stage Finestkind is currently in.
If many leaves are yellow when you spray and there are some dead, brown ones, it takes 3 treatments to stop the fungis but the plant is damaged and its yeild diminished considerably.
I know it was a quick fire, but its because i recognize his leaves as having the fungis and because it damages the plant so quickly that i immediately recommended he spray. If its the same fungis that i have,and i think it is, his time is running short. He's about to enter stage 3
Cannasseur
Member
If you are not seeing THIS sort of symptom on any healthy green growth...
...you probably are not experiencing any leaf spot pathogens. I have said my piece on the subject and I will refrain from creating any more of a conflict.
FinestKind
Member
Wow, I love a good debate! I think it's entirely possible everyone is right- the ones who think I've got some N deficiencies, and the ones who think I've got bacterial/fungal problems. Here's some more pictures offered up as evidence. I believe you now, Whodair and D.S.! And Cannaseur I think you were right, too... I've fed all of them with a healthy dose of 5-1-1 fish emulsion, and until I can get to the store tomorrow, I've sprayed them all down with a pH 8.5 water solution, which, according to Stitch's book "Marijuana Garden Saver", can be used even on "critically affected plants" in order to control fungal problems. Of course, if it's bacterial leaf spot, that's a whole different ball game. Has anyone ever used this remedy? It seems far too simple a solution, but the logic behind it is sound.
D.S., what brand of copper do you use? Is it more effective than sulfur?
Thanks everyone for chiming in- I'm sure this battle isn't over yet, so I'll be keeping you posted- please stay with me!
FK
D.S., what brand of copper do you use? Is it more effective than sulfur?
Thanks everyone for chiming in- I'm sure this battle isn't over yet, so I'll be keeping you posted- please stay with me!
FK
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PeteWeedSeed
Member
Hey I've had this problem before, but in a indoor grow where the floor was never cleaned.
Bugs or fungus got to the roots and no matter what I did, flush, spray poisons, new feeding schedule, nothing fixed it.
There just wasn't enough time for the problem to be solved before the plants were done blooming. Turned a 5lb grow room into a 1.5lb grow... and the smoke tasted really funny, very chemical/metallic taste... probably all the poisons used.
Sorry I can't be much help, just letting ya know you might run out of time too. Going to be a hard fight outside, where the problem can regroup near bye, and come back. Fight to save what you can.. but not reversible in my experience
Bugs or fungus got to the roots and no matter what I did, flush, spray poisons, new feeding schedule, nothing fixed it.
There just wasn't enough time for the problem to be solved before the plants were done blooming. Turned a 5lb grow room into a 1.5lb grow... and the smoke tasted really funny, very chemical/metallic taste... probably all the poisons used.
Sorry I can't be much help, just letting ya know you might run out of time too. Going to be a hard fight outside, where the problem can regroup near bye, and come back. Fight to save what you can.. but not reversible in my experience
FinestKind
Member
One thing, Canna- it was 2TB Plant-Tone and 2TB Espoma Bone Meal (which is I believe 4-12-0) per gallon of soil, which means 20 TB of each per plant, which is an entirely different thing. Although I do agree that they were experiencing their "nitrogen craving" when they switched to flowering- I'm planning on upping it to 3TB per gallon next year (of the Plant-Tone, that is)... btw, you're not causing controversy, you're creating discussion, which is entirely healthy!
FK
Cannasseur
Member
Well glad to hear that I'm not offending anyone, I usually come off a bit hostile when I'm over-passionate about a particular subject so you'll have to excuse me.
I would like to add that from what I've read, most of the leaf spot diseases that affect cannabis display circular spots.
I would like to add that from what I've read, most of the leaf spot diseases that affect cannabis display circular spots.
FEED ME!
FEED ME!
That's it ^^^ The food in soil is played out. They need water soluable nutes a.s.a.p. Age Old Organics Bloom works great for the transition period. It's alil rich in N. Good luck! BC
FEED ME!
That's it ^^^ The food in soil is played out. They need water soluable nutes a.s.a.p. Age Old Organics Bloom works great for the transition period. It's alil rich in N. Good luck! BC
FinestKind
Member
Cannasseur: That's interesting, I've never seen it simplified that way, good to know.
B.C. I hit them with 1TB per gallon of 5-1-1 fish emulsion and 1TB per gallon of 2-3-1, which makes it either 7-4-2 or 3.5-2-1, depending on how you look at it. I also put in a tsp of Earth Juice Microblast for some micros...
Fat J Well, I've got to say, if I do indeed have some fungus problems, then Serenade doesn't work for shit, as I've been spraying religously for over a month now, so next year maybe I'll give the sulfur a try.
B.C. I hit them with 1TB per gallon of 5-1-1 fish emulsion and 1TB per gallon of 2-3-1, which makes it either 7-4-2 or 3.5-2-1, depending on how you look at it. I also put in a tsp of Earth Juice Microblast for some micros...
Fat J Well, I've got to say, if I do indeed have some fungus problems, then Serenade doesn't work for shit, as I've been spraying religously for over a month now, so next year maybe I'll give the sulfur a try.
Cannasseur
Member
FinestKIND, I want to clear this up and say, that may not be absolutely definite (Sorry to pull your chain). That conclusion was drawn from what I've read about on other closely related pathogens affecting other plants (tomatoes, melons, soy bean, etc). These are not the subspecies/species that specifically trouble the cannabis plant. Most of them are within the same genera but I cannot honestly say that their life cycles will be identical in nature. Just figure id put that out there.
Keep us updated, bud!
Keep us updated, bud!
