spider mites control in the uk
- Thread starter V1AAA
- Start date
S
sallyforthDeleted member 75382
Our method is to release a whole canister of CO2 into the grow area. Shut down lights, ventilation etc. Get the fuck out of the room or you'll suffocate like all the mite's and maybe more in there. Leave for up to 12 hours.
Please be safe as if you stay in the area you'll die.
Only do this if you can make the room as airtight as possible.
Please be safe as if you stay in the area you'll die.
Only do this if you can make the room as airtight as possible.
does anyone have successfully use Spinosad to fight the borgs? i'm still not sure if it did anything to those fuckers or not... it's number 1 for fighting trips without doubt... but still not sure about the mites...
i just got Floramite today (bought in ebay and took very long to arrive but but finnaly it arrived)
anyway i just spotted today some borgs in the clones... so i'm gonna giv it hard with floramite... ireally hope this time i kill them all
Jonas
i just got Floramite today (bought in ebay and took very long to arrive but but finnaly it arrived)
anyway i just spotted today some borgs in the clones... so i'm gonna giv it hard with floramite... ireally hope this time i kill them all
Jonas
i have found with the Westlands Bug Attack it is not even neccessary to spray every part of every plant-i've have lazily just sprayed the easy bits to get to and voilla-it cleared the room
eddieS
eddieS
amazing stuff normaly works first time
Abamectin
Abamectin
And you are spot on about highlighting Abamectin
I have been using Vertimec which contains Abamectin for about 10 years, sprayed as a precaution on all vegging plants just before flowering...........no friggin borg here.
These products that contain Abamectin are what you need, sprayed as a precation, the plants are still small so you dont need much and if not done, when you see the borg it is usually too late........but thats just me, after fighting the poxy things for about 7 years prior to that.
I researched it @ the time, it was found naturally in an area on a Golf course in Japan which didn't have any bugs.
It was illegal in this country when i bought it but its the best £35 i ever spent........£35 for 50ml. Dosage 0.2ml to 500ml @4 crops a year .......so that should last me another 52 years
I have been slagged off about this before, but neither me, my missus or friends glow in the dark
Good luck all
C
Abamectin
And you are spot on about highlighting Abamectin
I have been using Vertimec which contains Abamectin for about 10 years, sprayed as a precaution on all vegging plants just before flowering...........no friggin borg here.
These products that contain Abamectin are what you need, sprayed as a precation, the plants are still small so you dont need much and if not done, when you see the borg it is usually too late........but thats just me, after fighting the poxy things for about 7 years prior to that.
I researched it @ the time, it was found naturally in an area on a Golf course in Japan which didn't have any bugs.
It was illegal in this country when i bought it but its the best £35 i ever spent........£35 for 50ml. Dosage 0.2ml to 500ml @4 crops a year .......so that should last me another 52 years
I have been slagged off about this before, but neither me, my missus or friends glow in the dark
Good luck all
C
Nearly five weeks and they have not returned , they were the resistant greenhouse type so happy with the result for an off the shelf product from a shed.
As pesticides go abamectin is pretty safe for mammals due to its action , as it was originally derived from bacteria it might even be classed as organic ish.
Chloride Channel Modulators
Avermectins are derived from a soil
microorganism and belong to a group called
the macrolactones. Fipronil is a member of
the class of insecticides known as
phenylpyrazoles. Avermectins and fipronil
both bind to the GABA-gated chloride
channel. This channel normally blocks
reactions in some nerves, preventing
excessive stimulation of the central nervous
system (CNS).
Avermectins activate the chloride
channel, causing an inhibitory effect, which,
when excessive, results in the insect’s death.
Fipronil has the opposite effect on the
chloride channel, blocking it from
performing its normal inhibitory action.
Thus, when fipronil binds to the channel, the
nerve is overstimulated, and death
eventually occurs.
As pesticides go abamectin is pretty safe for mammals due to its action , as it was originally derived from bacteria it might even be classed as organic ish.
Chloride Channel Modulators
Avermectins are derived from a soil
microorganism and belong to a group called
the macrolactones. Fipronil is a member of
the class of insecticides known as
phenylpyrazoles. Avermectins and fipronil
both bind to the GABA-gated chloride
channel. This channel normally blocks
reactions in some nerves, preventing
excessive stimulation of the central nervous
system (CNS).
Avermectins activate the chloride
channel, causing an inhibitory effect, which,
when excessive, results in the insect’s death.
Fipronil has the opposite effect on the
chloride channel, blocking it from
performing its normal inhibitory action.
Thus, when fipronil binds to the channel, the
nerve is overstimulated, and death
eventually occurs.
cheese man UK
New member
try poking holes in a couplr of apples base them under ur plants and apparently the mite will leave ur plant and set up home in the apple thus safely removing the f****rs
Six weeks and no recurrence , they died soon after hatching and no adults or fresh damage seen since , this is comparable to floramite and easier to obtain.
Apples will definately have zero effect with mites , could tempt other larger insect pest species but mites could not sense its presence or feed from it and can only survive on certain types of live leaf material.
Really trying to be green and organic but still happy to use pesticides with common sense rather than risk this happening in a week left untreated or whilst pissing around with neem.
Apples will definately have zero effect with mites , could tempt other larger insect pest species but mites could not sense its presence or feed from it and can only survive on certain types of live leaf material.
Really trying to be green and organic but still happy to use pesticides with common sense rather than risk this happening in a week left untreated or whilst pissing around with neem.
mellow yellow
Member
easy peeps
got mites, did not fancy spraying as I am 2 days short of 6 weeks into flower.
The thought of smoking shed loads of mites does not appeal so in the vain of less the better I have chopped, currently hanging.
plan is to let them hang for 3,4,5 days then jar n cure.
Don`t want the little fookers escaping each time i burp the jars so how should i deal with this?
Also plan to spray my newly poped beans with plant vitality plus, clean the tent with bleach, will this stop them coming back should I be doing more if so what?
Any help is appricated.
Thanks
got mites, did not fancy spraying as I am 2 days short of 6 weeks into flower.
The thought of smoking shed loads of mites does not appeal so in the vain of less the better I have chopped, currently hanging.
plan is to let them hang for 3,4,5 days then jar n cure.
Don`t want the little fookers escaping each time i burp the jars so how should i deal with this?
Also plan to spray my newly poped beans with plant vitality plus, clean the tent with bleach, will this stop them coming back should I be doing more if so what?
Any help is appricated.
Thanks
Hi mellow , very hard to kill every egg in most rooms , assume they will return and have a plan of action.
By the time you see the classic leaf damage its pretty far gone , check regular under seemingly clean leaves , UV lightsource makes them stand out esp the eggs.
Albamectin is working well here , one good dose when going into flower and once in early veg has kept them away , treat any incomeing plant as infected includeing house plants and cut flowers.
Alternate with floramite if possible , can stop spraying when no mites seen for three months.
Best option i have found with a bad late mite infestation is to spray with nicotine/tobacco to within a week of expected chop, less than that is best to chop now.
Chop at ground level , strip all larger and untriched leaves , suspend upside down spray quite vigorously in the shower , even a food grade detergent/surfactant can be safely used if its really bad.
Chopped to size , spun in the salad dryer and trimmed a little closer than usual , nobody could tell it ever had mites.
Have smoked dry sieved that was about half dead mites , body parts and poo , was a fine flavour despite looking disgusting under the microcope.
By the time you see the classic leaf damage its pretty far gone , check regular under seemingly clean leaves , UV lightsource makes them stand out esp the eggs.
Albamectin is working well here , one good dose when going into flower and once in early veg has kept them away , treat any incomeing plant as infected includeing house plants and cut flowers.
Alternate with floramite if possible , can stop spraying when no mites seen for three months.
Best option i have found with a bad late mite infestation is to spray with nicotine/tobacco to within a week of expected chop, less than that is best to chop now.
Chop at ground level , strip all larger and untriched leaves , suspend upside down spray quite vigorously in the shower , even a food grade detergent/surfactant can be safely used if its really bad.
Chopped to size , spun in the salad dryer and trimmed a little closer than usual , nobody could tell it ever had mites.
Have smoked dry sieved that was about half dead mites , body parts and poo , was a fine flavour despite looking disgusting under the microcope.
Ivermectin works well too i only applied once and its safe upto 14 days before harvest its used to treat lice and mites on poultry pigeons and its used for humans to treat worms
for it to do any harm to us you would need to drink 2000 litres of water with a 0.5ml/ltr strength the water would kill us first
degrades in 7 days on the plant and kills the eggs too
have a go you will be amazed
peace
for it to do any harm to us you would need to drink 2000 litres of water with a 0.5ml/ltr strength the water would kill us first
degrades in 7 days on the plant and kills the eggs too
have a go you will be amazed
peace
mellow yellow
Member
thanks for the advice, been think about using one of these bombs not sure how effective they will be, anyone used them to good effect?
S
seedee
holy shit to lady bugs. wiped em clean. got like 2000 for $20. they say they eat like 100 a day
ive used scotts bug clear (the green one for fruit and veg)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Clear-Fruit...cticide/dp/tech-data/B0017RNZA2/ref=de_a_smtd
you can get a ready made up spray too.
oil based so its pretty much the same thing as SMC but much cheaper and available in regular garden centers/shops
VG
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Clear-Fruit...cticide/dp/tech-data/B0017RNZA2/ref=de_a_smtd
you can get a ready made up spray too.
oil based so its pretty much the same thing as SMC but much cheaper and available in regular garden centers/shops
VG
S
spiritual g
Plant Vitality plus is a decent product if you spot them very early.Best advice is keep a tidy clean ship and not to trade clones with people with untidy rooms and poor hygiene and techniques.Steralize eveything before starting new projects.Steam cleaners are ideal to blast fabrics too.Peace
