Please help me to identify this bug! Stunted growth!!
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desertsquirrel
Member
I love ces. But I was getting mag deficiency w/o using their mag/plant amp.
What problem are your girls having?
Also I quit using the grow bottle... 6/9 micro/bloom in veg and then i add the ff boosters in flower.
What problem are your girls having?
Also I quit using the grow bottle... 6/9 micro/bloom in veg and then i add the ff boosters in flower.
I'll tell you exactly what those are. They are a soil mite. They have 8 legs and are very small. They will fuck your shit up. I believe they will also make your plants very susceptible to root rot. They are very resilient to most chemicals. I had them bad and ended up chopping after 3 weeks of veg and 3 weeks of flower. You could try any miticide, it might work. I would buy some pipe tobacco and make a homemade nicotene solution. Make a shitload of it to fill a 5 gallon bucket. The only way to thoroughly saturate your medium is to dunk your containers for a few minutes each.
I'd like for everyone to join hands now so we can say a quick prayer for you. You have my condolences
I'd like for everyone to join hands now so we can say a quick prayer for you. You have my condolences
I had a bad infestation of spider mites last year. After fucking around trying to use predator mites, bug bombs, and no pest stips things only got worse. They were covering plants in webs it had gotten so bad. Then I bought 2 miticides- Forbid, and Floramite. Those little bastards disappeared after 1 application of each. I couldnt believe how well that shit works. Neither of the miticides did any harm to the plants, but destroyed the bugs. They are both very expensive, but you can buy them by the ounce on ebay for like $20 each. You wont need more than an ounce of each.
The Forbid kills all the living mites that are feeding on your shit, and the Floramite kills all the eggs and hatchlings.
Dont fuck around with homemade remedies while your girls suffer needlessly. They are depending on you to save them. Nuke those mites.
I fucking hate bugs.
The Forbid kills all the living mites that are feeding on your shit, and the Floramite kills all the eggs and hatchlings.
Dont fuck around with homemade remedies while your girls suffer needlessly. They are depending on you to save them. Nuke those mites.
I fucking hate bugs.
plumbum
Member
thanks a lot for all of you for advice.. i've been busy disinfecting and trying to throw away everything in flower room.. while treating plants in vege from this bugs.. i just went to a hydro store and one of the guys whose opinion i try to trust id this bug as root aphid.. just different variation of it.. but crippled1, i am with you - they are some mites.. i've read somewhere that they exist.. so any how the treatment is the same - ether root aphid or soil mite - Bayer complete insect killer should take care of it.. since it has imidacloprid, which is "a chlorinated analog of nicotine, the compound therefore belongs to the class of neonicotinoid insecticides, and acts on the nicotinic acetylcholine receptor"
so far i don't see anything, but my deficiency symptoms don't go away.. so i assume that i have a root rot along side.. i've been treating it by adding 1ml/3 Gal Physan 20 with my food regime.. that concentration have been recommended by Physan tech guy.. if you do straight water you could go higher.. but after all this flushing with insecticides my girls are hungry.. any thought about getting rid of root rot??
so far i don't see anything, but my deficiency symptoms don't go away.. so i assume that i have a root rot along side.. i've been treating it by adding 1ml/3 Gal Physan 20 with my food regime.. that concentration have been recommended by Physan tech guy.. if you do straight water you could go higher.. but after all this flushing with insecticides my girls are hungry.. any thought about getting rid of root rot??
plumbum
Member
desertsquirrel.. my problems are looking like some unusual extreme cases of deficiencies.. bottom leaves are yellowing out, rusting and falling down.. i have good experience with CES and never had anything extreme like that.. so i am pretty sure it's some sort of root rot.. or root disease, most likely spread by the bugs..
as far as 6/9 regime, i've tried it but didn't have much luck so i went back to published formula.. i give it another shot after things get settled..
Your damaged foliage is never going to recover back to healthy leaves. The plant will just sacrifice them and let them die while draining nutes out of them. Your roots are really damaged. You may be able to nurse them back to health but it is going to take a good amount of time before you start seeing some healthy growth. That's why I chopped. First off I didn't feel like waiting that long and second, I did not want to take the chance that my yields would suck ass. You might be able to save them but at what cost and what is your return? My plants had major leaf drop and by the time I diagnosed the problem they were turning totally yellow. Imidacloprid is not going to do a damn thing to them. Try some Forbid. Whatever you use, just accept this, spraying your medium with a pesticide is not going to kill them.
The medium needs some contact time with it and the only way you can be assured of that is by submerging it. These little fuckers are all the way down at the bottom of the container.
If you really want to take the offense, you could pull the plants out, rinse off as much medium as possible, then dunk it in a miticide and then replant in sterile medium.
The medium needs some contact time with it and the only way you can be assured of that is by submerging it. These little fuckers are all the way down at the bottom of the container.
If you really want to take the offense, you could pull the plants out, rinse off as much medium as possible, then dunk it in a miticide and then replant in sterile medium.
plumbum
Member
i still have some forbid.. best treatment against spider mites.. i use 1.25 ml/gal for foliar or dunking clones.. what dilution do you recommend for drenching application??
another question.. you say it is soil mite.. i can't find any reading about this bug.. could you please refer me to some info.. thanks a lot for your support crippled1.. identifying the problem is a key to success.. i have years of experience, but this bug is the worth thing i've ever seen..
i am in the process of cutting everything down.. it's been two month of fighting.. i consider my self defeated..
starting from scratch..
I am only speculating about how you might kill all of these bugs. I chopped my plants after I realized they were too far gone. My plan in the future to try to prevent any further rootzone infestations is to use some predator nematodes on a preventative basis. I am also considering using some hypoaspis mites in addition to the nematodes.
desertsquirrel
Member
=(
You already wasted the time and energy, why not learn how to stop them for future problems?
Good luck on your next run man
You already wasted the time and energy, why not learn how to stop them for future problems?
Good luck on your next run man
My future mediums will also include worm castings and additional amounts of chitin to increase the level of chitinase as a pest deterrent.
http://hiddenvalleynaturearts.com/acatalog/wormcast.htm
How Does the Insect Repellency Work?
My best understanding and explanation is:
The relationship between the enzyme chitinase and insect repellency is well documented from academic research. (Extensive research work is now being done to genetically alter plants to produce a high level of chitinase). Using worm castings is a non-toxic, and organic methd of doing the same without genetic alteration.
The enzyme chitinase will dissolve chitin and chitin makes the exoskeleton of a bug. If the level is below detection then it is not toxic to the bug and they can NOT detect it. Increase the level of chitinase above this level and the bug is repelled by the nectar of the plant rather than attracted to it. The bugs reaction to chitinase is similar to our reaction to sour milk. One drop of sour milk mixed into a glass of sweet milk and you will drink the glass with no negative reaction. However, mix in three tablespoons and no one has to convince you to not drink the milk.
Using worm castings triggers the chitinase production level. At this point I can't name the trigger organism. I have a theory that I am researching. I should be able to name the organism soon. Applying the worm castings to the soil at a 10% - 20% mix results in the level of internal chitinase increasing. The 10-20% mix comes from research by Ohio State, Subler, Edwards, et al, regarding the optimum mix for optimum plant growth. Applying a ‡ inch layer to the top of a plant equates to 10%. A 1 inch layer to 20%.
The detection level for the bug is in the range of 1 million cfu/dwg. We have tested plants covered in white flies. The level of chitinase producing organisms is usually less than 300,000 cfu/dwg. One particular hibiscus tested at 260,000 cfu/dwg prior to application. This 10 foot tall hibiscus was covered in white flies. Three months after application the white flies had left the plant totally. The chitinase level had increased to 670,000,000 cfu/dwg.
The speed of repellency is in direct relation to the size of the plant. Spider mites will leave house plants in about two weeks. Aphids will leave roses in less than two months and it will take about three months for all of the white flies to leave a ten foot tall hibiscus.
It appears that this mechanism works for nearly every plant. I have included a list of the plants tested. All of the plants listed were tested by 11 nursery managers/staff and two garden writers. All tests to date have shown success. (These tests were NOT performed by California Vermiculture). We have performed our own tests and shown efficacy have relied on tests by others as support data. Nearly every one of these testers scoffed at the possibility of worm castings being able to repel insects.
The manager of Steven's Nursery told me that he could not accept insect repellency. I agreed that the idea sounded outrageous but offered samples for his personal testing. He had Joseph Coat roses that had been plagued with aphids for over six years. He said that there was not a single spot on these roses bigger than the size of a dime NOT covered in aphids. He applied a 1 inch layer in the watering basin. In less than two months, all aphids were gone. He has now applied worm castings to all of his roses. He now has not a single aphid anywhere.
Nursery managers have asked their clients to apply worm castings and observe the possible pest repellency effects. The number of people who have seen success in their own tests exceeds 1,000. I have asked how many of their clients have complained of no positive results. Not one complaint for lack of results has been made to date except for Gina Wright.
You read the article by Gina Wright in Decor & Style. You need to know the whole story. In a later article, Gina reported that her aphids were all gone but the white flies were still evident though greatly reduced on her hibiscus and abutilon. I contacted her to do some testing to determine why she still had white flies. She reported back that she had spoken too soon. All white flies are now gone.
I have registered the use of worm castings for insect repellency as a patent. The patent search shows no one else has made this claim. Dr. Scott Subler says he is familiar with the industry and no one else has tied together this effect. Dr. Subler also did Not believe my radical reports but now says this is the first ever, organic, non-toxic method to provide for insect repellency. Dr. Subler are working together to assmble the needed academic documentation. We should have several research projects underway before the end of the year.
I am working with the EPA Biopesticides to get registration as both a fungicide and a pesticide. The director and his staff are very supportive. I should have registration for non-food applications before the end of the year. Food applications will take longer.
http://hiddenvalleynaturearts.com/acatalog/wormcast.htm
How Does the Insect Repellency Work?
My best understanding and explanation is:
The relationship between the enzyme chitinase and insect repellency is well documented from academic research. (Extensive research work is now being done to genetically alter plants to produce a high level of chitinase). Using worm castings is a non-toxic, and organic methd of doing the same without genetic alteration.
The enzyme chitinase will dissolve chitin and chitin makes the exoskeleton of a bug. If the level is below detection then it is not toxic to the bug and they can NOT detect it. Increase the level of chitinase above this level and the bug is repelled by the nectar of the plant rather than attracted to it. The bugs reaction to chitinase is similar to our reaction to sour milk. One drop of sour milk mixed into a glass of sweet milk and you will drink the glass with no negative reaction. However, mix in three tablespoons and no one has to convince you to not drink the milk.
Using worm castings triggers the chitinase production level. At this point I can't name the trigger organism. I have a theory that I am researching. I should be able to name the organism soon. Applying the worm castings to the soil at a 10% - 20% mix results in the level of internal chitinase increasing. The 10-20% mix comes from research by Ohio State, Subler, Edwards, et al, regarding the optimum mix for optimum plant growth. Applying a ‡ inch layer to the top of a plant equates to 10%. A 1 inch layer to 20%.
The detection level for the bug is in the range of 1 million cfu/dwg. We have tested plants covered in white flies. The level of chitinase producing organisms is usually less than 300,000 cfu/dwg. One particular hibiscus tested at 260,000 cfu/dwg prior to application. This 10 foot tall hibiscus was covered in white flies. Three months after application the white flies had left the plant totally. The chitinase level had increased to 670,000,000 cfu/dwg.
The speed of repellency is in direct relation to the size of the plant. Spider mites will leave house plants in about two weeks. Aphids will leave roses in less than two months and it will take about three months for all of the white flies to leave a ten foot tall hibiscus.
It appears that this mechanism works for nearly every plant. I have included a list of the plants tested. All of the plants listed were tested by 11 nursery managers/staff and two garden writers. All tests to date have shown success. (These tests were NOT performed by California Vermiculture). We have performed our own tests and shown efficacy have relied on tests by others as support data. Nearly every one of these testers scoffed at the possibility of worm castings being able to repel insects.
The manager of Steven's Nursery told me that he could not accept insect repellency. I agreed that the idea sounded outrageous but offered samples for his personal testing. He had Joseph Coat roses that had been plagued with aphids for over six years. He said that there was not a single spot on these roses bigger than the size of a dime NOT covered in aphids. He applied a 1 inch layer in the watering basin. In less than two months, all aphids were gone. He has now applied worm castings to all of his roses. He now has not a single aphid anywhere.
Nursery managers have asked their clients to apply worm castings and observe the possible pest repellency effects. The number of people who have seen success in their own tests exceeds 1,000. I have asked how many of their clients have complained of no positive results. Not one complaint for lack of results has been made to date except for Gina Wright.
You read the article by Gina Wright in Decor & Style. You need to know the whole story. In a later article, Gina reported that her aphids were all gone but the white flies were still evident though greatly reduced on her hibiscus and abutilon. I contacted her to do some testing to determine why she still had white flies. She reported back that she had spoken too soon. All white flies are now gone.
I have registered the use of worm castings for insect repellency as a patent. The patent search shows no one else has made this claim. Dr. Scott Subler says he is familiar with the industry and no one else has tied together this effect. Dr. Subler also did Not believe my radical reports but now says this is the first ever, organic, non-toxic method to provide for insect repellency. Dr. Subler are working together to assmble the needed academic documentation. We should have several research projects underway before the end of the year.
I am working with the EPA Biopesticides to get registration as both a fungicide and a pesticide. The director and his staff are very supportive. I should have registration for non-food applications before the end of the year. Food applications will take longer.
Another product which is straight chitosan, just add it to the medium.
http://seedquest.com/yellowpages/americas/usa/a/agrihouse/default.htm
http://seedquest.com/yellowpages/americas/usa/a/agrihouse/default.htm
Pre-arms crops to defend by themselves against soil pathogens and disease, overcome environmental stresses due to weather, soil
deficiencies, insects, age
and genetic variability.
Preserves beneficial microbes.
Promotes friendly microorganisms.
All natural.
deficiencies, insects, age
and genetic variability.
Preserves beneficial microbes.
Promotes friendly microorganisms.
All natural.
??
??
Do you have little holes in your top soil cause I have the same shit and my tree and shrub didnt do the trick!! Any help would be great!!
??
Do you have little holes in your top soil cause I have the same shit and my tree and shrub didnt do the trick!! Any help would be great!!
hi, i have tiny bugs living in my coco pots.. size around 1/2 mm.. i'm not sure what it is.. my plants showing signs of deficiency, yellowing of the leaves, stunted growth.. all symptoms pointing out to root aphids.. i was treating my coco by drenching it with azatrol, pyganic pro, botanigard, and bayer tree and shrub.. it didn't work. population is much smaller now, but it is still present.. i started to look more and compare pictures on a web and realized that it doesn't look like root aphid, but more like some sort of mite living in soil..
please help me to figure out what is it?! and how to get my plants healthy again!
plumbum
Member
i see it this way.. i finished a cycle and chopped everything down.. my moms do not look healthy.. my veged plans don't look 100%.. i've been fighting it for 2-3 month.. i don't see them now.. but who knows if they pop back later.. i am going to take clones and start from scratch.. 2-3 extra weeks and i will be sure that everything is healthy.. i don't want to chance it anymore..
plumbum
Member
tree and shrub didn't work in my case 1st time.. i went to Bayer complete.. i've used 30ml/gal + 10ml/gal botanigard drench.. that seems helped, but im not sure if they are gone for good.. i've also used azatrol several times with 5-7 days intervals - didn't do anything.. and pyganic pro at 20ml/Gal.. helped to reduce population, but not complete kill.. my body in flower used spectraside (gamma-cyhalothrin at 15ml/gal) seems helping too.. but then you also have to fight root rot on a side..
yes i did have holes on top of the coco.. something i've never seen before..
