Carpenters and Electricians stop! This thread needs you!

[IHeartPot]

Well im am now embarking on construction of my super sealed room. I jus need a little help from all u carpenters. Im going to build a room inside a room so essentially a box insode a box. Im going to build the basic frame, insulate it, then drywall it. As far as construction what should i do to make a strong durable roof to hang everything?

Your gonna prolly need these specs to Answer my questions:
2 rooms - in eAch room there will be-
4 1k hortilux in cooled hood
2 6-in fans to cool each pair of hoods
1 big scrubber and fan recycling
2 wall mounted oscillating fan
A flip flop relay for 4 digital ballasts
CO2 enrichment w/ sentinel monitor
Dehumidifier
And a 24k btu window ac that i plan on mouniting in the wall

Now my electrical questions are these:

Im going to need electricity to power this grow so whAt service size subpanel should i run to each room, Or should i have one subpanel for both rooms?*

Also my new home has washer and dryer hookups that i dont plan on using? Will this benefit me in any way?

What should i do as far as circuits? Do i need 4 independent circuits for each room or do i need more? And how big of circuits? And should i get at least 4 sockets ler circuit? *I was thinking maybe a 60amp circuit for lights and 3 other independent 30 amp circuits per room...does that sound right? Help!!!! I have to at least sound like i know somethin when the electrician comes....i know its a lot to digest but you guys are smart!

 

[ThePizzaMan]

I am interested in this as well. Pulling up a chair.

 

[JimBeamKush]

Lol you better hope you electrcian is very stupid or is cool with what you do.. he is going to know something is up. that is a lot of power in those rooms and I can not even begin to explain to you what all you will need that is a serouis job.

 

[PoopyTeaBags]

If you put your lights on 240 that means each of your ballasts will run at 4.5a for a total of 18 amps if they are flip flops then that should be it on lights. A/C 10-12 amps and say another 7 amps for everything else so thats 37a total and you have to be at 20% under max load so that means you can only run up to 80% of the amps for that breaker so you would need a 50a subpanel at least.. You can run everything off of one subpanel.

as for guages of wire it depends on how you run them...

 

[dtfsux]

Well im am now embarking on construction of my super sealed room. I jus need a little help from all u carpenters. Im going to build a room inside a room so essentially a box insode a box. Im going to build the basic frame, insulate it, then drywall it. As far as construction what should i do to make a strong durable roof to hang everything?

Your gonna prolly need these specs to Answer my questions:
2 rooms - in eAch room there will be-
4 1k hortilux in cooled hood
2 6-in fans to cool each pair of hoods
1 big scrubber and fan recycling
2 wall mounted oscillating fan
A flip flop relay for 4 digital ballasts
CO2 enrichment w/ sentinel monitor
Dehumidifier
And a 24k btu window ac that i plan on mouniting in the wall

Now my electrical questions are these:

Im going to need electricity to power this grow so whAt service size subpanel should i run to each room, Or should i have one subpanel for both rooms?*

Also my new home has washer and dryer hookups that i dont plan on using? Will this benefit me in any way?

What should i do as far as circuits? Do i need 4 independent circuits for each room or do i need more? And how big of circuits? And should i get at least 4 sockets ler circuit? *I was thinking maybe a 60amp circuit for lights and 3 other independent 30 amp circuits per room...does that sound right? Help!!!! I have to at least sound like i know somethin when the electrician comes....i know its a lot to digest but you guys are smart!

The roof should be 2x4 or 2x6 or 2x8 depending on the size of the room. I think 2x6 at a minimum for joists/rafters. You could use OSB instead of drywall, then you will have a strong surface everywhere to mount stuff to.

For the electric, run the lights at 240

4000/240 is 16.6 amps. you could run that on a 20 amp breaker (exceeds the 80% rule by a little) but safer to do a 30A breaker
The AC on a 20A breaker
The DH doesnt need a dedicated circuit but my LG 65 pint unit and Santa Fe unit used around 7A each.

The rest of that stuff is minimal and could probably go one circuit but wise to have two

The washer/dryer hookups dont mean much as you will need more power than the dryer outlet can handle. The 4" exhasut is too small for the size of your grow. If close enough, the water hookup may be nice. But its not hard to get water to your grow room.


I would run a 100A sub panel

 

[IHeartPot]

If you put your lights on 240 that means each of your ballasts will run at 4.5a for a total of 18 amps if they are flip flops then that should be it on lights. A/C 10-12 amps and say another 7 amps for everything else so thats 37a total and you have to be a 80% under max load so you would need a 50a subpanel at least.. You can run everything off of one subpanel.

as for guages of wire it depends on how you run them...

Im going to def put the lights on 240. Wow thanx for the advice

 

[IHeartPot]

The roof should be 2x4 or 2x6 or 2x8 depending on the size of the room. I think 2x6 at a minimum for joists/rafters. You could use OSB instead of drywall, then you will have a strong surface everywhere to mount stuff to.

For the electric, run the lights at 240

4000/240 is 16.6 amps. you could run that on a 20 amp breaker (exceeds the 80% rule by a little) but safer to do a 30A breaker
The AC on a 20A breaker
The DH doesnt need a dedicated circuit but my LG 65 pint unit and Santa Fe unit used around 7A each.

The rest of that stuff is minimal and could probably go one circuit but wise to have two

The washer/dryer hookups dont mean much as you will need more power than the dryer outlet can handle. The 4" exhasut is too small for the size of your grow. If close enough, the water hookup may be nice. But its not hard to get water to your grow room.


I would run a 100A sub panel

So i should run 4 sockets dedicated to a 30amp breaker just for the lights? Would it be smarter to run the ballast to a light controller then run the light controller plug to one of the four outlets dedicated to the 30amp circuit?

The acs on two seperate 20 amp circuits, u gotta remember there is two rooms, and two independent 20 amp circuits for random shit.

Tell me if this sounds right, this is for both rooms besides 240 breAker which will be shared by both rooms for the flip relay of lights:

1-30 amp 240v breaker - for lights
2-20 amp breaker - *for both acs
4-20 amp breaker- random shit

 

[PoopyTeaBags]

O shit i didnt realize that you had two 24k btu you may need more amps for your a/c's you need to check the amperage of your a/c's and add them together with the 25a's for you light and fans and extra;s and stay under 80% max load... if you a/c is 10 amps and your a/c is 10a and they run at the same time a 50a will be too small you may need a 60a... My bad about not adding in the second a/c

 

[messn'n'gommin']

You can use 2x4's (crowned and laid on it's narrow side, then toe nailed/screwed) if constructing a ceiling for the rooms-in-a-room because they aren't going to hold up all that much weight. But, whether you're building a ceiling or just running the walls all the way to the existing ceiling, you can screw 1"x2"-6" boards at 90 degree's to the ceiling joists and attach hanging hooks where you want.

 

[Dorje113]

a 24k ac is prolly 240V too, just saw an 18k that was 240V...check the el requirements...

If you use a 30A breaker for the lights you'll need 8 ga wire (I think, google a wire ampacity chart), if you use a 20 you can use 12g wire. It does exceed the 80% though... If the lights and ac are both 240V you could run a single 240 breaker for both. Another 20A 120V breaker can run everything else but add up all the stuff you're running and double check.

 

[IHeartPot]

O shit i didnt realize that you had two 24k btu you may need more amps for your a/c's you need to check the amperage of your a/c's and add them together with the 25a's for you light and fans and extra;s and stay under 80% max load... if you a/c is 10 amps and your a/c is 10a and they run at the same time a 50a will be too small you may need a 60a... My bad about not adding in the second a/c

The acs will never be ran at the same time lighting will be on a flip flop and acs prolly wont be used during 12 hours off..but oh shit veg...will i need both acs during veg?

 

[rogerw]

If you put your lights on 240 that means each of your ballasts will run at 4.5a for a total of 18 amps if they are flip flops then that should be it on lights. A/C 10-12 amps and say another 7 amps for everything else so thats 37a total and you have to be a 80% under max load so you would need a 50a subpanel at least.. You can run everything off of one subpanel.

as for guages of wire it depends on how you run them...

Yep thats what I would do. Also do not be tight with the breakers I am running a 60 amp sevice with 6 5 20 amp breakers with a 60 in the main. reason? I like to spread out the load to many breakers not just 2 or 3. Things stay running cooler. Also 12-2 wg copper for the wire with no less than a 6 ga copper main. I also pig tail all of my recapticals [sp] . It's a much safer way to do them. I also buy the 20 amp plug ins for the heavy stuff . Go with the standard 15 amp for the rest.

 

[IHeartPot]

You can use 2x4's (crowned and laid on it's narrow side, then toe nailed/screwed) if constructing a ceiling for the rooms-in-a-room because they aren't going to hold up all that much weight. But, whether you're building a ceiling or just running the walls all the way to the existing ceiling, you can screw 1"x2"-6" boards at 90 degree's to the ceiling joists and attach hanging hooks where you want.

Are u saying lay 2"x4"s narrow side up, screw them or nail them into the wall plates the n just screw osb board on top? But what about insulation

 

[IHeartPot]

Im trying to build a damn roof for my grow box

Im trying to build a damn roof for my grow box

Tp insulate the roof do i put osb board over the 4 wall plates, add the joists, and tge insulation, then place osb board over this side? How far apart do thet have to be? And do i really need noggins?

 

[IHeartPot]

Should the 2x4's be laid on top of the 4 wall plates and screwed down into meaning the 2x4s arent flush with the four wall plates, or should the 2x4s or joists as they are called be laid between the 4 wall plates you know spanning from one wall plate to another making the joists flush with the 4 wall plates

 

[messn'n'gommin']

Typically, a floor-plate is nailed to the wall studs on 16" centers (measured mid-point to mid-point of any two studs). Then, a top-plate is nailed to the opposite end. This is easier to do if the 2x4's are lain on their narrow sides when nailing. Then stood up, plumbed and nailed to the other walls. The ceiling joists (again, on 16" centers) fully span the top-plates and nailed in place.

Tip: nail the second stud of each wall 3/4" short of the first, then 16" for the rest, so that a 4' sheet wide drywall will break at the middle of the wall stud.

[]--15-1/4"--[]----16"----[]----16"----[] etc.

OSB is ok to use to finish out the interior, but drywall is a little more forgiving. OSB will require a more precise cut with a circular saw, while drywall is scored with a razor knife on one side, snapped, and then all you're cutting through on the other side is paper (use a drywall "Tee" or square). If you're not nailing into the existing floor, you can build a simple box with 2x4's (including floor joists) and cover with 3/4" plywood.

Then, after finishing out the interior, screw your "nailers" (furring strips or any other 1x? material) perpendicular to the ceiling joists.

Insulation can be installed to the exterior of the "room."

hth

 

[B. Self Reliant]

So i should run 4 sockets dedicated to a 30amp breaker just for the lights? Would it be smarter to run the ballast to a light controller then run the light controller plug to one of the four outlets dedicated to the 30amp circuit?

Planning on the number of amps and how they're split up is the important part. Don't get me wrong, more outlets can be handy, but it's not a huge concern.

Keep in mind that when running 4k per room, you're going to need some sort of high-amperage light controller (unless the flip-flop setup does away with this requirement). I know Sentinel makes one that uses standard 240v stove cords. If you're using something like this then you'd actually only need one outlet for lighting per room. The ballasts plug into the high-amperage timer and then the timer plugs into the socket.

 

[IHeartPot]

Typically, a floor-plate is nailed to the wall studs on 16" centers (measured mid-point to mid-point of any two studs). Then, a top-plate is nailed to the opposite end. This is easier to do if the 2x4's are lain on their narrow sides when nailing. Then stood up, plumbed and nailed to the other walls. The ceiling joists (again, on 16" centers) fully span the top-plates and nailed in place.

Tip: nail the second stud of each wall 3/4" short of the first, then 16" for the rest, so that a 4' sheet wide drywall will break at the middle of the wall stud.

[]--15-1/4"--[]----16"----[]----16"----[] etc.

OSB is ok to use to finish out the interior, but drywall is a little more forgiving. OSB will require a more precise cut with a circular saw, while drywall is scored with a razor knife on one side, snapped, and then all you're cutting through on the other side is paper (use a drywall "Tee" or square). If you're not nailing into the existing floor, you can build a simple box with 2x4's (including floor joists) and cover with 3/4" plywood.

Then, after finishing out the interior, screw your "nailers" (furring strips or any other 1x? material) perpendicular to the ceiling joists.

Insulation can be installed to the exterior of the "room."

hth

Thanks for the input bro. Quick question should tge joists that span across thr top wall plates be laid narrow side up on op of the plates? Or should the joists be lain flat on top of the wall plates? And should i insulate the roof and floor?

 

[messn'n'gommin']

Yeah! Although they aren't going to carry all that much weight, if laid flat, will bow...eventually. Set upright, as it were, they will carry just about any load you would put on it...for what you're going to use it for.

I've never used a sealed room or even a room-in-a-room. But, off hand, if you would normally insulate, then yeah, it'll be a breeze to install. You can insulate the floor if you like, but I would think the walls and "ceiling/roof" would be enough.

btw...I'm taking for granted that there won't be more than an eight foot span from wall to wall. If it's longer than that I would recommend 2x6's for the ceiling joists. But, you can go 24" centers with those.

lol...sounds like a productive weekend is on the horizon!

 

[WasntMe]

Do not design electrical to minimum specs... make sure you have room to grow ... everyone ends up needing more power for something down the road.


If this is a Sub-Panel, how far away, wiring wise, is the main panel? What size service is run to the house? How much room is even available on the main service panel to add sub service?

How big are your interior rooms? that will help determine your needed joist size.


info is needed to give you proper guidance.