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How to get roots to grow fast for transplanted clones?

Hi, I just transplanted some rooted clones to straight coco. The clones were rooted in jiffy plugs, but they were left rooted in the tray for way too long and not transplanted for over a month. I tranplanted the healthiest looking ones. They are about 10" tall. The roots were looking a bit rough as would be expected not having anywhere to go. I was wanting to use these as mother plants, and I need to get the roots to catch up to the size of the plant.

What nutrient regimen would you recommend for getting the roots to take off? Any root stimulator additive that you find works real good?

For the transplant watering I just gave them 1/3 strength grow nutes (gh maxi grow dry), 3ml of calmag/gal, and 1/4tsp of superthrive/gal in RO water.

ANy suggestions besides transplant earlier?
 

ReelBusy1

Breeder
ICMag Donor
Hi, I just transplanted some rooted clones to straight coco. The clones were rooted in jiffy plugs, but they were left rooted in the tray for way too long and not transplanted for over a month. I tranplanted the healthiest looking ones. They are about 10" tall. The roots were looking a bit rough as would be expected not having anywhere to go. I was wanting to use these as mother plants, and I need to get the roots to catch up to the size of the plant.

What nutrient regimen would you recommend for getting the roots to take off? Any root stimulator additive that you find works real good?

For the transplant watering I just gave them 1/3 strength grow nutes (gh maxi grow dry), 3ml of calmag/gal, and 1/4tsp of superthrive/gal in RO water.

ANy suggestions besides transplant earlier?


go myco and your roots will thanks you with a strong plant.
 

Phedrosbenny

Trying to have a good day
Veteran
I would mix up a solution of very weak bloom nutrients.I would mix it like 1/4 strength.And give it to them.That will get those roots growing.
 
Roots Excellerator is probably the best thing available for fast root growth. Expensive, but you only use like 1ml per gallon. I've used it and it kicks ass.

I've also had good luck with B'cuzz Roots.

Both will kick-start root growth on newly transplanted plants, along with a drop per gallon of Superthrive or some vitamin B-1.
 
F

feral

I grow soil so don't know if it will work in coco, but the first watering they get is willow water with 1/4 of regular strength seaweed with a shot of molasses and roots/top growth love it.
 
OK another question.....can nutes go bad? I remembered I had a huge bottle of "Bloom Advanced Horticulture" Roots stimulant that has been in the (warm) garage for about a year and a half. I opened it up and took a wiff and it seems to have an unpleasant smell and there is a bit of chunky stuff floating in there. Would it still be safe to use this stuff or do you think I should trash it? Thanks for all your help g's
 

NoRest

Member
OK another question.....can nutes go bad? I remembered I had a huge bottle of "Bloom Advanced Horticulture" Roots stimulant that has been in the (warm) garage for about a year and a half. I opened it up and took a wiff and it seems to have an unpleasant smell and there is a bit of chunky stuff floating in there. Would it still be safe to use this stuff or do you think I should trash it? Thanks for all your help g's

Since youre in coco I wouldnt use old funky nutes I save my old stuff and use it outdoors. I try to use fresh if Im doing a inside run.

Nutes can lose potency and breed bad organisms better be safer then sorrier
 

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
Hi, I just transplanted some rooted clones to straight coco. The clones were rooted in jiffy plugs, but they were left rooted in the tray for way too long and not transplanted for over a month. I tranplanted the healthiest looking ones. They are about 10" tall. The roots were looking a bit rough as would be expected not having anywhere to go. I was wanting to use these as mother plants, and I need to get the roots to catch up to the size of the plant.

What nutrient regimen would you recommend for getting the roots to take off? Any root stimulator additive that you find works real good?

For the transplant watering I just gave them 1/3 strength grow nutes (gh maxi grow dry), 3ml of calmag/gal, and 1/4tsp of superthrive/gal in RO water.

ANy suggestions besides transplant earlier?

I haven't tried this in hydro, just on soil and coco.

Try a dilute solution of PK 13/14 (which has no Nitrogen in it, which wil burn seedlings and clones) and root stimulator (rhizotonic).

The P and K of PK 13/14 are real root food, and the rhizotonic (B1) for stimulation. The combination leads to very rapid and bush-like root growth in soil.

A solution you can start out with is 0.5 EC. Give it a try.
 

cornflake

better'n coco pops any ol' day o da week
Veteran
canna rhizotonic is pretty good, it can be used as a foliar feeder too and for a situation like your's, where you have enormous leaf surface area to absorb a foliar feed, where your young roots will be sensitive and unable to absorb much now

I can't see why you can't use another brand root accelerator and feed in the same way....

when I feed via root system it receives 0.5mL/L water, or via the foliage feed at 2mL/L (mix your water and root stimulator at manufacturer recommended ratios and spray your plants with a mister bottle a couple of times a day, easy as that - except of course now you have extra humidity and you'll need to make whatever adjustments you need to make to your system to compensate)

good luck with your solution :)
 

Calimed

Active member
Veteran
Whenever I add Rhizotonic to clones in my aero cloner that have just started showing roots, they explode.
 

Derka

Member
I'm a big fan of superthrive, a small 1/2 ounce bottle lasts a long time, you are only using a drop at a time!
 

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
By the way I gave PK 13/14 as an example because you are working with hydro.

On soil, I have used Plagron's Green Sensation (N-P-K 0-9-10) - same principle, you use a bloom food with no Nitrogen in it.

It works both as a feed in soil and as a foliar feed. I used equal amounts of Rhizotonic and Green Sensation, and diluted it to 0.5 EC. Rhizotonic is alkaline, Green Sensation is acidic, and their pH's cancel eachother out.
 

foomar

Luddite
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Had this a while but just noticed the bit now in bold , trying this myself now for the interest , could work in your situation but dont know how long effects would last.

Hopeing it may act like a chemical topping , removeing apical dominance for a few weeks to encourage rooting and sidegrowth for takeing clones.


Dipping tips in 20% clonex in water for an hour seems to have done no physical damage , 50% burnt them dead , ideal conc/time could be tested out if it works in any useable way.



RHS Journals
The Garden
April 2005

Rooting hormones explained

Indoleacetic acid (IAA), an auxin, is probably the most widespread hormone that controls rooting in plants. It is manufactured in the growing tips of shoots, which is why it is important with difficult-to-root plants to retain the tip. Often, plants only produce IAA for limited periods in the growing season, giving a narrow ‘window’ for propagation by cuttings. Deciduous rhododendrons are a classic example, only producing IAA in sufficient quantities to facilitate rooting for a few weeks in spring.

Cuttings have limited food reserves, and in protected rooting environments are prone to attack from disease. Applying a synthetic rooting hormone should make cuttings root faster, producing more, larger roots. The most popular formulation is indolebutryic acid, which closely resembles IAA and can also extend the window for successful propagation.

Rooting hormone actually inhibits plant growth in tissues outside the root, and naturally moves away from the growing tip to the base of plants. Most rooting hormone is applied to the base of cuttings, but some propagators also apply it to the growing tips, replicating what happens naturally and forcing cuttings to develop roots while holding shoot growth in check.

Flowering stems attract rooting hormones to them, acting as a ‘sump’ so it is always best to select non-flowering stems. If this is not possible remove flowers and buds when preparing cuttings. Wounding the base of a cutting by removing a sliver of bark (no more than 2cm/0.75in in length) enables it to absorb more moisture and rooting hormone, and increases the surface area on which roots can form. It is easy to apply the wrong rate of rooting hormone (which has a limited shelf life - store in a cool, dry environment away from direct sunlight): too much and the cutting will die, too little and it may fail to root.
 
I would like to thank everyone for their help so far! My plants unfortunately arent really turning around, they are starting to look kinda shitty. I posted in the infirmary, here is the link https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=182403 Please check the pics and let me know if you can offer any help! Thanks so much.

Basically i think there is a K or MG deficiency or something but I can't identify.
 

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