Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???

[Sickaluph]

Don't worry be happy that wine you had with your kind organic veggie lasagna probably had more imid in it...no really it is rather non toxic to humans and I'm sure you waited 30 days so smoke up it's definitly less harmfull than the air in socal.

I ran the citrus and veggie at 10ml per gallon in my drip system for 8hrs and saw no ill effects as a bonus it has little or no N and is ph neutral.... I'll be treating them all again the day I flip em just to be sure.
HM

Definitely more than 30 days, I never use the imid in bloom.

 

[Rabbits]

I guess it’s each to his own with imid.

Imidacloprid (in its domestic form of granules) should be mixed at 5 grams per liter.
This rate is the equivalent of .18 of an ounce in 1.3 gallons

Using this mix as foliar spray the suggested withholding periods are:

1 day: cucumber, watermelons and pumpkins (all in the cucurbit family)

3 days: tomatoes

7 days: capsicum, potato and egg plant.

21 days: stone fruit.

Imidacloprid is used on tobacco, even quite close to harvest.

Of course there has been no tests on cannabis plants. ( not that we are aware of).

If you Google Imidacloprid in forms like ‘Imidacloprid on tobacco crops’ you will find some useful links.
There is a wealth of information on this thread too.

I have done my best to be sure the information and liquid conversions are correct.

 

[attila76]

New!A non-chemical method of controlling Root aphids.

New!A non-chemical method of controlling Root aphids.

Ok, guys,

I've been thru the ringer with these Roots Aphids having a number of detailed posting in Scay Beez "phylloxerae" thread. They lived outside, setup camp, and have destroyed my yield and quality. My patients have had enough, and so have I!

So... what's the method u ask?

CO2....

Yep use CO2 just like that
Have the soil dry as possible so CO2 can seep into the root ball.
apply for 24 hours. remove bag. inspect soil.

did this to 7 pots as described. I've only seen 1 aphid in the treated pots since.

This is my idea. And I'm beginning to believe in this fix.

any questions?

please share your experience with this method if you try it.

 

[sneakinman13]

wow attila. let us kno how this works !!!!!!!!! i dig

 

[attila76]

also

also

I supposed it can be quantized thusly: Before, I saw about 20 aphids in 3 minutes in each pot 5-15 minutes after feeding the soilless mix.
Now I have only found 1 in 7 days total.
This may not eliminate them, but it seems a highly effective control.

I have heard that this works with spider mites as well, and is how I got the idea.

Also, I am beginning to amend my soil with diatomaceous earth.

Value? undetermined...

 

[Rabbits]

This looks to be a terrific idea and thus a great remedy.

 

[puff adder]

I had root aphids so bad it was unbelievable. Tanks crawlers coming out of the holes in the pots so bad I thought I had spilled coco, but it was all moving!!!

I used Bayer Tree and Shrub, in early veg, and again at the 12-12 flip. I also followed up with a soil drench of Azamax, and Problem Solved.

Root aphids are evil. I now have 3 main enemies that I am acting preventatively against. Spider mites, powdery mildew, and root aphids. I'm using Imid and Azamax soil drenches for the root aphids (helps with fungus gnats too), Floromite for the mites, and Eagle-20 for the PM. All are systemics, and all are used only in veg up to the 12-12 flip.

I need to be VERY sure everything is peachy keen by the time I flip to 12-12, so I don't run into issues during flowering, where you can't do anything about these enemies.

The longer I grow, the more new problems I run into. Using these nasty poisons is not what I would prefer to do, but IMO responsible preventative use of these systemics early in veg will keep one from using these nasties in an irresponsible way. Too many people get caught with their pants down late in flower and spray/use whatever it takes.

 

[Neo 420]

Ok, guys,

I've been thru the ringer with these Roots Aphids having a number of detailed posting in Scay Beez "phylloxerae" thread. They lived outside, setup camp, and have destroyed my yield and quality. My patients have had enough, and so have I!

So... what's the method u ask?

CO2....

Yep use CO2 just like that
Have the soil dry as possible so CO2 can seep into the root ball.
apply for 24 hours. remove bag. inspect soil.

did this to 7 pots as described. I've only seen 1 aphid in the treated pots since.

This is my idea. And I'm beginning to believe in this fix.

any questions?

please share your experience with this method if you try it.

What the CO2 rate or PPM's? I hope your idea does work but I thought CO2 was bad for roots?

 

[attila76]

What the CO2 rate or PPM's? I hope your idea does work but I thought CO2 was bad for roots?

Good question.
I am using a Co2 regulator, the PPM3 from CAP, and set the regulator flow at 2 lpm, ppm3 set to shut off at 1400ppm.

I imagine that in the bag and in the pot the CO2 must be displacing the normal ~21% O2, ~78% N2 gas ratio. At some point the CO2 reaches a maximum level then it accumulates in the room til it shuts off the PPM3. The levels go down. PPM3 kicks on. cycle repeat.

Is CO2 bad for the roots? Perhaps a bit. But it's temporary. I have treated each for no longer then 24 hours. The plants have shown no ill effects thus far. IMHO Root aphids, their diseases, and the pesticides that y'all are using are far worse. IMHO..


Also to report. I have seen just a few more aphids, its nothing like it was before. I am sure that they will be back. I'll just have to treat them when ever they are on the dry side.

 

[donothing]

spleebale your diligence and research is incredible and i am very grateful, you have pretty much word for word decribed my situation for the last year. i have unknowingly been plagued by the as you call them mico, red asses and they have pretty much worn me out. i have lost so much time and money thinking everything was all good till the third week in flower then leaves yellow then bleach out and die, thought it was everything from bag bulbs, bad water, nutes, to deficiencies. all very confusing because under t5's everything seemed fine no problems but once under 1000w, everything just started dieing.

here is a vid of my bug http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_ZxqcV3iCs

i have tried a 10 min soak in 15ml/g of bayer tree shrub killer but it had no effect on them
these seam to be in destructible and i think the only think to do is move.

 

[donothing]

I had root aphids so bad it was unbelievable. Tanks crawlers coming out of the holes in the pots so bad I thought I had spilled coco, but it was all moving!!!

I used Bayer Tree and Shrub, in early veg, and again at the 12-12 flip. I also followed up with a soil drench of Azamax, and Problem Solved.

Root aphids are evil. I now have 3 main enemies that I am acting preventatively against. Spider mites, powdery mildew, and root aphids. I'm using Imid and Azamax soil drenches for the root aphids (helps with fungus gnats too), Floromite for the mites, and Eagle-20 for the PM. All are systemics, and all are used only in veg up to the 12-12 flip.

I need to be VERY sure everything is peachy keen by the time I flip to 12-12, so I don't run into issues during flowering, where you can't do anything about these enemies.

The longer I grow, the more new problems I run into. Using these nasty poisons is not what I would prefer to do, but IMO responsible preventative use of these systemics early in veg will keep one from using these nasties in an irresponsible way. Too many people get caught with their pants down late in flower and spray/use whatever it takes.

PM can be killed by bringing your room temp above 95 for at least an hr i do two, but make sure if you have a res in the room to put ice in there so the res temp dosent rise. two heat treatments in one week should kill your systemic PM problem

 

[donothing]

Good question.
I am using a Co2 regulator, the PPM3 from CAP, and set the regulator flow at 2 lpm, ppm3 set to shut off at 1400ppm.

I imagine that in the bag and in the pot the CO2 must be displacing the normal ~21% O2, ~78% N2 gas ratio. At some point the CO2 reaches a maximum level then it accumulates in the room til it shuts off the PPM3. The levels go down. PPM3 kicks on. cycle repeat.

Is CO2 bad for the roots? Perhaps a bit. But it's temporary. I have treated each for no longer then 24 hours. The plants have shown no ill effects thus far. IMHO Root aphids, their diseases, and the pesticides that y'all are using are far worse. IMHO..


Also to report. I have seen just a few more aphids, its nothing like it was before. I am sure that they will be back. I'll just have to treat them when ever they are on the dry side.

its my understanding the c02 isnt toxic/ deadly until 10,000 - 14,000 ppms

 

[Neo 420]

5000 is toxic to plants and humans...

 

[reckon]

i have tried a 10 min soak in 15ml/g of bayer tree shrub killer but it had no effect on them
these seam to be in destructible and i think the only think to do is move.

My problem is fungus gnats (ID'd by a entomologist friend= chronomids), but this will work on any of the insects liested here in spleebales thread (thanks btw, mr. bale)

The Gnats are 4 stage insects: egg, larvae, pupae, winged adult, with each stage lasting 4 to 7 days,..
the eggs are in a shell, so you won't get much kill on them till they hatch into larvae.
The larvae are easily killed by just about anything, BUT it has to linger more than 7 days to work.
The pupae are just like the eggs, you won't get much kill on those, as they spin a silk like cocoon, which is essentially waterproof.
The pupae split their pupal cases with an internal gaseous buildup (like a caddisfly, or mayfly), and hatch into fully functional winged adults.
The adults fly around, mate and then return to lay eggs in the soil, and the cycle continues.

so you need to have an agent that works LONGER than 7 days, and you need something that kills the larvae AND the adults on contact.

try the BAYER COMPLETE
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

This has the Imidacloprid the tree and shrub has, AND it has a contact killer: Beta-Cyfluthrin

I dosed my mums, some small starts and 36 clones (all coco amended soil=DTW) at 10ml/gallon with one good drench each,....some of the gnats/aphids moved into a nearby drain, but I used a foamy drain opener to kill those.

so far so good, and I had a BAD infestation (new yellow sticky would have hundreds after only a couple of days)

make sure you get ALL the breeding sites: houseplants, drains, etc,... AND don't leave out fruit or veggies during your "cleaning period", and look for damp areas, because as soon as they can't lay eggs in your cannabis, they are looking for something else.

The best thing about this stuff is at 10ml/gal the girls just look awesome, the starts are dark green and healthy, the clones are rooting, and have fat white "toothpick" sized roots poking out the bottoms of the rooter plugs, and the clones and starts were gnat free after the first dose,...I DID have to re-dose the mums once again 3 days later,...but that did it.

I don't like chemicals, and this stuff once mixed smells like it would hurt you, maybe they added a "smells like instant death" fragrance, so you'll be careful with it

I'm being careful with it

I wont be smoking any of this for at least 4 months from now, and then they will all be 400% bigger, or I'll take a small cutting, and then that grows into a 4 foot plant.

so I'm confident the product will be broken down and the plants growth will have increased so I don't have to worry about smoking imidacloprid by the time I intake any of it.

it's working for me, and I read about the stuff here on IC, then did a BUNCH of personal research.

good luck

 

[LadyFlores]

Need advice!

Need advice!

Please, I need your help / advice/ experience!

I've recently discovered that I have root aphids (and something else which I will describe later). My girls are half way through flower... a couple of them have already died, and another is on the verge. Leaves are very curled under, and some are yellowing.

I've been reading through this thread... learning a lot... but I haven't read every single posting so I'm still unsure of some things. I wanted to run my game plan by you guys first. Any feedback is much appreciated.

I have a hydro set up (ebb and flow). Hydroton rocks. I'm currently in the beginning week 5 of flower.

What I've done already:
1. Added Azamax to the resevoir 72 hours before a rez change
2. Next I flushed a couple of times with a resevior filled with only RO water and 35% food grade hydrogen peroxide (5ml/ gallon). Allowed everything to soak for 15 minutes a few times. And then repeated with a fresh rez of RO and H2O2.

A bunch of little white larvae washed out... and little white stringy things. I also saw some more mature aphids. Some that already developed wings. And also saw in the rez what appear to be egg sacks??

And then --- after the second water and peroxide rinse, I found 2 large worms floating in the rez. They are about 2 inches long, clear with dark colored segments. These things are HUGE... and I think one is still alive (barely, but still living as I saw it move a little). I have no idea what they are.

So here's where I need you guys ----
*** I'm thinking the way to go is imid. But is it safe for me to use this stuff half way into flowering?? (4 weeks or less from harvest??) I was thinking I would do 2 rounds of imid, with water + peroxide rinsing in between...

Oh yeah, and I've been foliaring with AN-BOM which is a natural/organic insecticide.

Thanks everyone!

 

[ShroomDr]

A few others have mentioned it, but no one in the last 25 pages; anyone have any thoughts on 'acetamiprid". It is in Ortho Flower, Fruit and Vegetable Insect Killer @0.006%. Bottle says, Caterpillar, Japanese Beetle, Aphid, Thrips, Whitefly. IDK about Fugus Gnats, any thoughts?

Acetamiprid is an organic compound with the chemical formula C10H11ClN4. It is an odorless neonicotinoid insecticide produced under the trade names Assail, Pristine, and Chipco by Aventis CropSciences. It is systemic and intended to control sucking insects on crops such as leafy vegetables, citrus fruits, pome fruits, grapes, cotton, cole crops, and ornamental plants. It is also a key pesticide in commercial cherry farming due to its effectiveness against the larvae of the cherry fruit fly.

Safety

Acetamiprid is classified as unlikely to be a human carcinogen. Acetamiprid has a low acute and chronic toxicity in mammals with no evidence of carcinogenicity, neurotoxicity or mutagenicity. It is classified as toxicity category rating II in acute oral studies with rats, toxicity category III in acute dermal and inhalation studies with rats, and toxicity category IV in primary eye and skin irritation studies with rabbits. It is mobile in soil, but degrades rapidly via aerobic soil metabolism, with studies showing its half life between <1 and 8.2 days. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) does not consider it to be environmentally persistent. The EPA considers it "only moderately toxic" to bees; however, some media sources and the recent documentary Vanishing of the Bees have blamed neonicotinoids like acetamiprid for colony collapse disorder.

So if your eating anything with real cherries, you are encountering this product, and the half-life is relatively short (i think).

 

[RetroGrow]

Please, I need your help / advice/ experience!

I've recently discovered that I have root aphids (and something else which I will describe later). My girls are half way through flower... a couple of them have already died, and another is on the verge. Leaves are very curled under, and some are yellowing.

I've been reading through this thread... learning a lot... but I haven't read every single posting so I'm still unsure of some things. I wanted to run my game plan by you guys first. Any feedback is much appreciated.

I have a hydro set up (ebb and flow). Hydroton rocks. I'm currently in the beginning week 5 of flower.

What I've done already:
1. Added Azamax to the resevoir 72 hours before a rez change
2. Next I flushed a couple of times with a resevior filled with only RO water and 35% food grade hydrogen peroxide (5ml/ gallon). Allowed everything to soak for 15 minutes a few times. And then repeated with a fresh rez of RO and H2O2.

A bunch of little white larvae washed out... and little white stringy things. I also saw some more mature aphids. Some that already developed wings. And also saw in the rez what appear to be egg sacks??

And then --- after the second water and peroxide rinse, I found 2 large worms floating in the rez. They are about 2 inches long, clear with dark colored segments. These things are HUGE... and I think one is still alive (barely, but still living as I saw it move a little). I have no idea what they are.

So here's where I need you guys ----
*** I'm thinking the way to go is imid. But is it safe for me to use this stuff half way into flowering?? (4 weeks or less from harvest??) I was thinking I would do 2 rounds of imid, with water + peroxide rinsing in between...

Oh yeah, and I've been foliaring with AN-BOM which is a natural/organic insecticide.

Thanks everyone!

Imid should be used in veg.
You have let it get too far.
In most documented cases, the longest waiting period to use fruits/vegetables after Imid is 21 days, depending on the type of fruit, so you could take a shot if you act quickly. There is no research on half life of imid in cannabis, but assuming that it is similar to other fruits/veggies, you could try it. Use the Bayer Advanced as pictured in my gallary. A single drench at minimum dosage should be sufficient.
But, you have to check your plants more carefully while they are in veg to avoid these situations. Root aphids are very small, so you need a loupe to see some types.
I would add that including aspirin in your rez will boost the plants natural immune system. Not sure if it will help in your case, but it has done wonders for me at one 325 ML tablet per gallon.

 

[LadyFlores]

Imid should be used in veg.
You have let it get too far.
In most documented cases, the longest waiting period to use fruits/vegetables after Imid is 21 days, depending on the type of fruit, so you could take a shot if you act quickly. There is no research on half life of imid in cannabis, but assuming that it is similar to other fruits/veggies, you could try it. Use the Bayer Advanced as pictured in my gallary. A single drench at minimum dosage should be sufficient.
But, you have to check your plants more carefully while they are in veg to avoid these situations. Root aphids are very small, so you need a loupe to see some types.
I would add that including aspirin in your rez will boost the plants natural immune system. Not sure if it will help in your case, but it has done wonders for me at one 325 ML tablet per gallon.

Hey thanks Retro! Since I have more than 21 days til harvest, I'll proceed with caution giving them the single drench at a low dose. Also, I'm going to leach before I flush with straight RO. (Leach 3 days before flushing with straight RO for 4 days). So hopefully all traces of imid will be flushed.

? Can you recommend how many ml's per gallon of the Bayer Complete that I would need to add to the rez? i.e. what is a low dose? (I'm thinking a single 15 minute drench will do the trick, yes?)

I have nutes in my rez right now (a homemade tea + cannazyme + rhizotonic). Would it be ok to just add the Bayer in with the nutes or do I need to empty the rez and just add the Bayer to pure RO water?

Thanks again ... and I'll definitely be trying the aspirin afterward as well. peace

 

[RetroGrow]

I am in coco, so I am not a hydro expert. Not sure what the dosage would be, but, I followed the dosing instructions on the label for my coco drench. It only took one application to wipe them out. Look back through the thread and try to find someone who used it in hydro. It's extremely concentrated and doesn't take much, but I would definitely think you need more than 15 minutes. Remember, this is not a contact killer, but a systemic. Plants need time to take it in. I would leave it in there over night, but again, I am not a hydro expert.
Also, go with the aspirin. It boosts the plants natural immune system and helps combat pathogens. Worked wonders for me on a crop I had given up for dead.

 

[donothing]

My problem is fungus gnats (ID'd by a entomologist friend= chronomids), but this will work on any of the insects liested here in spleebales thread (thanks btw, mr. bale)

The Gnats are 4 stage insects: egg, larvae, pupae, winged adult, with each stage lasting 4 to 7 days,..
the eggs are in a shell, so you won't get much kill on them till they hatch into larvae.
The larvae are easily killed by just about anything, BUT it has to linger more than 7 days to work.
The pupae are just like the eggs, you won't get much kill on those, as they spin a silk like cocoon, which is essentially waterproof.
The pupae split their pupal cases with an internal gaseous buildup (like a caddisfly, or mayfly), and hatch into fully functional winged adults.
The adults fly around, mate and then return to lay eggs in the soil, and the cycle continues.

so you need to have an agent that works LONGER than 7 days, and you need something that kills the larvae AND the adults on contact.

try the BAYER COMPLETE
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

This has the Imidacloprid the tree and shrub has, AND it has a contact killer: Beta-Cyfluthrin

I dosed my mums, some small starts and 36 clones (all coco amended soil=DTW) at 10ml/gallon with one good drench each,....some of the gnats/aphids moved into a nearby drain, but I used a foamy drain opener to kill those.

so far so good, and I had a BAD infestation (new yellow sticky would have hundreds after only a couple of days)

make sure you get ALL the breeding sites: houseplants, drains, etc,... AND don't leave out fruit or veggies during your "cleaning period", and look for damp areas, because as soon as they can't lay eggs in your cannabis, they are looking for something else.

The best thing about this stuff is at 10ml/gal the girls just look awesome, the starts are dark green and healthy, the clones are rooting, and have fat white "toothpick" sized roots poking out the bottoms of the rooter plugs, and the clones and starts were gnat free after the first dose,...I DID have to re-dose the mums once again 3 days later,...but that did it.

I don't like chemicals, and this stuff once mixed smells like it would hurt you, maybe they added a "smells like instant death" fragrance, so you'll be careful with it

I'm being careful with it

I wont be smoking any of this for at least 4 months from now, and then they will all be 400% bigger, or I'll take a small cutting, and then that grows into a 4 foot plant.

so I'm confident the product will be broken down and the plants growth will have increased so I don't have to worry about smoking imidacloprid by the time I intake any of it.

it's working for me, and I read about the stuff here on IC, then did a BUNCH of personal research.

good luck

not sure we have the same bug this is what im dealing with i appreciate any helpful advice tho!http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_ZxqcV3iCs