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Serenade- When to start spraying?

FinestKind

Member
Hey all,

Well, the summer is moving along, and I'm getting ready to my annual battle with bud rot. The weather here has been very hot and sunny, though the humidity has been a bit high, too. I have an early finishing strain (Early Misty) which I expect will start flowering in the next few weeks.

My question is (as stated in the title), when do I start (and stop, for that matter!) spraying for Botrytis. I don't think I've ever had a harvest without at least some bud rot, but I'd really like to "nip it in the bud," so to speak... I'm planning on using Serenade, as it is OMRI and available in my local nursery store.

Thanks in advance for your input!

FK
 

Xare

Active member
I have a bottle of Companion Bio-fungicide.

Its a concentrate of Bacillus Subtilis, strain gb03

This product is very similar to Serenade. Its mainly used as a soil drench to defend against soil borne pathogens that attack the rootzone.

But it can also be applied through foliar application.

Serenade is made with a strain of bacillus subtilis that is more suited to foliar application. I bought Companion for its dual purpose.


I will start foliar spraying about a week after buds form as a preventative step against budrot.

After it rains is a good time to re-apply because the plants will have to dry off anyway.

Maybe do 4-5 applications all through flowering, once every two weeks. And you can apply it right up until harvest if you need too. That is how they use it in the food industry.
 
damn guys my spring harvest had a gd bit of rot down deep in some of the denseest buds ...i didnt know there was a prevention 4 it so THANKS ALOT....finest kind and xare 4 the info shrpshooter
 

FinestKind

Member
I have a bottle of Companion Bio-fungicide.

Its a concentrate of Bacillus Subtilis, strain gb03

This product is very similar to Serenade. Its mainly used as a soil drench to defend against soil borne pathogens that attack the rootzone.

But it can also be applied through foliar application.

Serenade is made with a strain of bacillus subtilis that is more suited to foliar application. I bought Companion for its dual purpose.


I will start foliar spraying about a week after buds form as a preventative step against budrot.

After it rains is a good time to re-apply because the plants will have to dry off anyway.

Maybe do 4-5 applications all through flowering, once every two weeks. And you can apply it right up until harvest if you need too. That is how they use it in the food industry.

This is really just curiosity... doesn't a soil-borne fungicide kill beneficials, too? (Mycorrhizae, etc.) I would think it would. But maybe B. Subtilis doesn't attack beneficials... hmm.

Thanks a lot, btw, for your answer... just what I was looking for.

FK
 

ronbo51

Member
Veteran
I sprayed Serenade on my tomatoes this morning. It works by introducing a bacteria on the surface of the plant that then colonizes that area. Other organisms are then unable to get a foothold and get started because the bacillus is a bully and hogs all the space. It's a cool concept and there are other products like it. I know for certain it did nothing to control black spot on my tomatoes last year so I also used another product called Organicide. I alternate between the two. I am not sure I would bet the farm on Serenade. I think Nomaad and some of the Cali hotshots use something else for budworms and rot.
 

Xare

Active member
This is really just curiosity... doesn't a soil-borne fungicide kill beneficials, too? (Mycorrhizae, etc.) I would think it would. But maybe B. Subtilis doesn't attack beneficials... hmm.

Thanks a lot, btw, for your answer... just what I was looking for.

FK


Bio-Fungicides work in conjunction with Mycorrhizae.

In fact the Mycorrhizae I used this year already has Bacillus Subtilis included with all the other beneficials.

I inoculated my roots with a soil drench of - Roots Organics Oregonism XL

Roots Organics contains strains of 6 endotrophic and 6 ectotrophic mycorrhizae species, 2 trichoderma, 13 strains of beneficial bacteria, ( one of those is Bacillus Subtilis )


I should add that there are Chemical based fungicides that will kill off your Microherd. Those should only be used with chemical based fertilizers. Bio-fungicides are an organic solution for organic growers.
 

FinestKind

Member
Ronbo, thanks for the info- I have heard a lot of talk about Organacide, I just haven't seen it anywhere around here, either at my hydro shop or the local stores (Agway, etc.), all of which have the Serenade. Perhaps I'll have to look into it further and see if my hydro guy can order some.

Xare, I don't think I'd ever spray chemical pesticides and/or fungicides on my girls, so that's not a worry! Especially since there are so many effective organics out there. Interesting they use B. Subtilis in that innoculant, that's pretty cool- it must fight the nasties and leave the good guys alone. Good to know.

I just reread your first post and realized you said you spray them every 2 weeks... I had been doing it every week- you still find it effective? What's your concentration- 4 oz per gallon?

Thanks as always ICMagers!

FK
 
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JG02

New member
They also make seranade in a ready-to-go spray container. That way you don't have to do all the diluting etc... I bought some today after trying many different things to keep the PM under control. I've tried the new ProKure V and D, I've used PM Wash, I"ve tried the baking soda and water method, i've tried heating up my tent really hot for an hour.. here in northern colorado, over the past 3 weeks, we've had really high humidity due to the seasonal rains. It's been raining/cloudy almost every day for the past 25 days. I even had to harvest a plant 3 weeks early because of PM. Luckily none of it was in the buds, but I didn't want to take the risk and let it keep growing, so I harvested early and only ended up with about an OZ of dried buds and I'm betting it's only around 8-13% THC, which is fine with me, I don't like strong THC. I was just really looking forward to sending it off to the lab to see the strength because it was northern lights crossed with girl scout cookies, I was calling it "Light Cookies."
 

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