thaPUREcure
New member
I had a problem with fungus gnats but I'm treating the issue with DE. What's the best way to use de, and is it the gnat larvae causing the issues shown in the pictures?
-
Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
-
Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!
deficiency? or fungus gnats?
- Thread starter thaPUREcure
- Start date
I had a problem with fungus gnats but I'm treating the issue with DE. What's the best way to use de, and is it the gnat larvae causing the issues shown in the pictures?
Fungus gnats lay their eggs in soil. They don't eat the foliage, the larva eat root hairs. In small numbers their nothing but a pain in the ass. So is the sticky tape to corral the flying adults. Large numbers are bad on roots as well as the grower's nerves.
DE is supposed to be the shit. Sprinkle some on top of the soil, it cuts the soft bodies of the morphing gnats and kills em.
The first pic looks like Superthrive, go easy with that stuff. The second pic looks like a dried nute spot from a feeding drip, prolly won't hurt anything unless it's strong.
Can't tell from the 3rd pic, all I see are a couple of small white spots, similar to the 1st pic. I don't think any are gnat related.
Gnats are a pain. Most stuff that kills the adults won't kill the larva. Larva remedies don't kill adults. It's a process of elimination that works best if your soil is allowed to dry before re-watering. Total dryness isn't good for the plant but soil usually dries from the surface down. Gnat larva are no deeper than an inch or so, the drying conditions won't contribute to their success.
Mosquito dunks crumbled on top of the soil also helps to reduce numbers. MDs and DE together might work better than either alone.
Hot Shot No Pest Strip kills adults but the label warns against indoor use. I wouldn't use it at all in flower but some say never past 3 weeks in flower.
Ladybugs will eat gnat larva (and may even eat flying adults.) Only problem, conditions for the ladybug's to thrive are the same conditions for gnats to multiply. Good luck.
DE is supposed to be the shit. Sprinkle some on top of the soil, it cuts the soft bodies of the morphing gnats and kills em.
The first pic looks like Superthrive, go easy with that stuff. The second pic looks like a dried nute spot from a feeding drip, prolly won't hurt anything unless it's strong.
Can't tell from the 3rd pic, all I see are a couple of small white spots, similar to the 1st pic. I don't think any are gnat related.
Gnats are a pain. Most stuff that kills the adults won't kill the larva. Larva remedies don't kill adults. It's a process of elimination that works best if your soil is allowed to dry before re-watering. Total dryness isn't good for the plant but soil usually dries from the surface down. Gnat larva are no deeper than an inch or so, the drying conditions won't contribute to their success.
Mosquito dunks crumbled on top of the soil also helps to reduce numbers. MDs and DE together might work better than either alone.
Hot Shot No Pest Strip kills adults but the label warns against indoor use. I wouldn't use it at all in flower but some say never past 3 weeks in flower.
Ladybugs will eat gnat larva (and may even eat flying adults.) Only problem, conditions for the ladybug's to thrive are the same conditions for gnats to multiply. Good luck.
thaPUREcure
New member
to add a little bit of information, i've been using general organics bio root and biothrive, probably is a little bit of over nuteing. I also switched to flower about 2 days ago so would that complicate things? Thanks DiscoBiscuit and Grapeman for your help. I'll keep this thread open so I can keep the problems updated and in case any others rise up, This is my first grow so hopefully things go well
+rep to discobiscuit
+rep to discobiscuit
thaPUREcure
New member
Just a little update and me taking note of any new damage. The first and fourth pictures look as if the leaves are burned by heat or nutes, but they've turned a darkish green/black color. I'll inclued the other 3 pictures and a setup shot
aaaand the setup.
To get to know the babies better. You've got two grapefruit of some sort in the back. One
"planewreck" (skunkxtrainwreck) apparently on the left hand side. One Cotton Candy on the right. The 2 on the right are about 3 weeks behind the ones on the left. so they're at about 3-4 weeks and 6-7 for the bigger ones ont he left. Topped those two above the 5th set and they're the only ones really showing me much stress. Although I went lighter on the little one's nutes.
thaPUREcure
New member
bump.
anyone know specifically what's causing these marks on the lower leaves? Its only happening sectionally in the 2 big plants
anyone know specifically what's causing these marks on the lower leaves? Its only happening sectionally in the 2 big plants
Chem&M
Member
Look dude, a lot of us had to learn this (and some of us still need to 
.
Not every leaf on every plant is always going to be perfect. Carelessness may be suicide, but being paranoid about it won't help either.
I agree on the drip burn, and the dunks.
I say let 'em ride until you really see something wrong.
. Not every leaf on every plant is always going to be perfect. Carelessness may be suicide, but being paranoid about it won't help either.
I agree on the drip burn, and the dunks.
I say let 'em ride until you really see something wrong.
H
HybridHydro
To much nitrogen, at least according to Jorge Cervantes.
The dark green almost black leaves is the tell tale.
An overdose of Nitrogen will cause excessively lush foilage that is soft and susceptible to stress, including insect and fungal attacks. The stems become weak and they may fold over easily. The vascular transport tissue breaks down, and water uptake is restricted. In severe cases leaves turn a brownish-copper color, dry and fall off. Roots develop slowly, and tend to darken and rot. Flowers are smaller and sparse. Ammonium toxicity is most common in acidic soils, while nitrate toxicity is more prevalent in alkaline soils.
(retyped from Marijuana Horticulture, The Indoor/Outdoor Medical Growers Bible, by Jorge Cervantes)
The dark green almost black leaves is the tell tale.
An overdose of Nitrogen will cause excessively lush foilage that is soft and susceptible to stress, including insect and fungal attacks. The stems become weak and they may fold over easily. The vascular transport tissue breaks down, and water uptake is restricted. In severe cases leaves turn a brownish-copper color, dry and fall off. Roots develop slowly, and tend to darken and rot. Flowers are smaller and sparse. Ammonium toxicity is most common in acidic soils, while nitrate toxicity is more prevalent in alkaline soils.
(retyped from Marijuana Horticulture, The Indoor/Outdoor Medical Growers Bible, by Jorge Cervantes)
Look dude, a lot of us had to learn this (and some of us still need to
Not every leaf on every plant is always going to be perfect. Carelessness may be suicide, but being paranoid about it won't help either.
I agree on the drip burn, and the dunks.
I say let 'em ride until you really see something wrong.
Fucking A...nice post!
"Maybe" a little too wet...unless the droopy leaves are strain related...
Your plants look fine...keep doing what you're doing.
thaPUREcure
New member
thanks guys. I appreciate the input to give me a little reassurance. I'm just a stickler for the details and i guess I can't let the little details go. HAHA. definitely relieved though.
ibjamming, after reading the excerpt HybridHydro posted from jorge's book i'd say the droop could be related to the nitrogen burn.
gtg, bong in my face. HAPPY BURNING!
ibjamming, after reading the excerpt HybridHydro posted from jorge's book i'd say the droop could be related to the nitrogen burn.
gtg, bong in my face. HAPPY BURNING!
I used to stress over imperfections, still do if they progress. Good point about the excess nitrogen. Plain water can remedy this to a point but will be most effective if the pH is dialed in.
thaPUREcure
New member
unfortunately the younger plants are now experiencing the same issues despite weaker less frequent waters with nutrients, i'm thinking next time i'll buy a different brand. But would anyone be able to pinpoint something I could correct this time around? They have about 4-6 weeks left i believe depending on when they naturally finish, so I think it's easily correctable, i just don't have much knowledge at all in that area.
Basically, how can i boost my p and k seeing as my plants i believe have too much nitrogen
Certain fan leaves seem very dry and britle some are glossy with a weird texture, and sometimes has what looks to be thin spots near the vains in the center of the fan leaves.
Basically, how can i boost my p and k seeing as my plants i believe have too much nitrogen
Certain fan leaves seem very dry and britle some are glossy with a weird texture, and sometimes has what looks to be thin spots near the vains in the center of the fan leaves.
thaPUREcure
New member
to add some info, my set up doesn't allow me to reach temperatures that are close to 80, the best i probably get is 75f, getting down to 65f or so at night. Could that in any way be amplifying the stress? All the plants have purple on 45-100% of the stems and shutes depending on which strain..
The one older most purple one seems to be doing better than the others, the planewreck. Darker leaves, but the most frosted and has the most bud sights even thought its 10" shorter or so.
I'm worried most about the cotton candy plant(thiner leaves) because the problems with the crispy brittle yellowing spots that develop in to holes is now on to the leaves near the buds. The younger grapefruit plant is having the same problem with less holes
I donated the other grapefruit mother to a friend for some outdoor adventures. Loving the heat, minus the wilting lower leaves, the dark color has gone away and is perky.
The one older most purple one seems to be doing better than the others, the planewreck. Darker leaves, but the most frosted and has the most bud sights even thought its 10" shorter or so.
I'm worried most about the cotton candy plant(thiner leaves) because the problems with the crispy brittle yellowing spots that develop in to holes is now on to the leaves near the buds. The younger grapefruit plant is having the same problem with less holes
I donated the other grapefruit mother to a friend for some outdoor adventures. Loving the heat, minus the wilting lower leaves, the dark color has gone away and is perky.
Last edited:
i read this recenty
it seems to be a good way to tell if you have fungus gnats.
Monitoring: Place yellow sticky cards just above soil or media surface to detect winged adults. Use potato chunks (1/4 of a potato) to detect young larvae. For plugs, cut potatoes to resemble a "french fry" and place in the small containers. Check every two days. Look for small, white larvae (1/4 of an inch long when fully grown) with black head on the surface of the potato and growing media. Inspect incoming plants for larvae or their feeding damage.
it seems to be a good way to tell if you have fungus gnats.
Monitoring: Place yellow sticky cards just above soil or media surface to detect winged adults. Use potato chunks (1/4 of a potato) to detect young larvae. For plugs, cut potatoes to resemble a "french fry" and place in the small containers. Check every two days. Look for small, white larvae (1/4 of an inch long when fully grown) with black head on the surface of the potato and growing media. Inspect incoming plants for larvae or their feeding damage.
thaPUREcure
New member
yeah the sticky cards seem like a good idea, i'm also curious about spider mites too. There are sometimes spec's of white-ish areas on leaves, and usually only ones who are showing more stress.
unless you have really poor eyesight most bugs can be seen with the naked eye, you won't be able to identify them but you should be able to see them.
thaPUREcure
New member
well i sometimes see greyish brownish specs on the leaves but never anything moving around so i don't think so. I'm just baffled as to what's causing the burn/holes. Light burn?
thaPUREcure
New member
Just bought some Bud candy to help with micronutrient supplementation, and some KoolBloom to help with phosphorous, i think i've been having a combination of calmag def, phosphorous def, and potassium def. Or some minor lockout issues. I bought a GH pH Kit so i should be able to get these babies to hang on for the ride. The one showing the most stress had a soil pH that was slightly acidic so i think that is part of my issues.
The overall vigor of all the plants has been slightly disappointing which is what led me to the phosphorous conclussion.
I think i also over nuted in veg and under nuted thus far in flower, today being my 3rd regimin in 5 weeks. I'm really not too sure about all of this, but learning is fun :]
The overall vigor of all the plants has been slightly disappointing which is what led me to the phosphorous conclussion.
I think i also over nuted in veg and under nuted thus far in flower, today being my 3rd regimin in 5 weeks. I'm really not too sure about all of this, but learning is fun :]
thaPUREcure
New member
tagged for what?
