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DIY Building your own light controller? Power Box?

So... Im super sick of running everything off seperate timers its ridiculous but so is paying $500 for an overglorified breaker box. Anyways, I believe I am capable of bludgeoning my way through wiring one together. I have been putting a little bit of thought into it and I cannot figure out how they run a trigger cable inline to shut down the whole box off of a single timer. SO, if anybody knows, has seen posts like this, or has done a DIY light controller themselves I would definitely value your info! :thank you:
 
Hmm, I dont know enough about electricity but I`m thinking for 110 maybe wire the timer inline into the neutral power somehow so it isn`t bearing a load but still interupts the circuit upon switching off. Hmm any electrical pros out there or am I gonna have to discuss this one with myself? lol
 

ChaosNyx

Member
You want hi power relay to switch h.i.d.

controlled by 110 volt timer, able to switch 6x 1000 watts each
you can also use a motor contactor. Just make sure the control voltage is what you need and the amp rating is sufficient. A cheap source is in the HVACR trade.
ChaosNyx
 

Mulletsoda

Member
I know it may seem like this isn't big enough, but that may just be because we're all so used to seeing such high price tags on things, but here's what I use : http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/RLY-453/120-VAC-RELAY-DPDT-12-AMPS//1.html

A 1k HPS is ~ 5A220V, less than HALF what this relay is rated at. I use one relay per ballast; you just wire the coil terminals in parallel. Each relay's coil only draws ~ .03 amps, so you can put many of them together on the same 'trigger cord'.
 

Dorje113

Member
Most electric stores stock 30-50 Amp Definite Purpose Contactors, usually 3 pole, single throw, normally off. This is what you want, use 2 of the poles for 240, one for 120 to make both 240 and 120 volt timed outlets.

Hook the electromagnet in the contactor up to a simple plug-in timer and you're good to go.

On wire-in timers... I used them for a long time but now they use solid state relays for cfl compatibility, which require a load over 5 or 10 W for the "gate" to stay open, otherwise the relay can oscillate and turn on and off, which will destroy your lights. The electromagnet used to trigger the contactor does not draw enough power to keep the gate open.

Also, buy a 12 x 12 x 4" "project box", to enclose your contactor in along with a ground bar and all the wire nuts and clamps you'll need.

If you're not familiar with wiring this might not be the best project to start with, at least have a real electrician guide you or check out your work, this is serious business and can kill you or burn your house down if you don't do it right.
 
I know it may seem like this isn't big enough, but that may just be because we're all so used to seeing such high price tags on things, but here's what I use : http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/RLY-453/120-VAC-RELAY-DPDT-12-AMPS//1.html

A 1k HPS is ~ 5A220V, less than HALF what this relay is rated at. I use one relay per ballast; you just wire the coil terminals in parallel. Each relay's coil only draws ~ .03 amps, so you can put many of them together on the same 'trigger cord'.

I use the exact the same setup. They call em 'ice cube' relays in the electric trade. They fire my digital 1000w next gen's flawlessly.
 

bigd003

New member
here is this little article on how I made a 240 relay timer box that will safely run 4x1000 watt ballasts. You could configure it for more it you wanted to. http://www.themorningroast.com/heavy...r-control-box/
The google search and ads pay for my site, they are not spam either. If you have any questions about how to make the box I might be able to help.

I am also developing a very neat environmental controller that should prove to be cheaper and more powerful that anything I have ever seen on the market. But then, mine won't have a fancy sticker label on it either. I like to talk alot. Not to say I don't act. But you will notice I chat a bunch when I do a post. haha. Well, hello, and peace!
 

growPowerGrow

New member
thank you so much everyone! i'm a DIY person so im about to start some construction. thanks again! so stoked i dont have to drop $$$$$ on a commercial timer
 

growPowerGrow

New member
I know it may seem like this isn't big enough, but that may just be because we're all so used to seeing such high price tags on things, but here's what I use : http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/RLY-453/120-VAC-RELAY-DPDT-12-AMPS//1.html

A 1k HPS is ~ 5A220V, less than HALF what this relay is rated at. I use one relay per ballast; you just wire the coil terminals in parallel. Each relay's coil only draws ~ .03 amps, so you can put many of them together on the same 'trigger cord'.

the link didnt work for me, but i assume this is a similar product
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/rly-2120/120-vac-dpdt-10-amp-relay/1.html

when it comes to wiring it in... I think I know how it works:
2 pins for the 120V trigger input from the timer
the other set of pins correspond to: +,-, and ground. with one side being the input, one side being the output

but how should i make the physical connections?
it looks like that "icecube" relay plugs into something else? It doesnt look like there's enough space to attach each wire with a ring terminal and a bolt/nut. and i'm sure it's too much power to solder in?
 
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