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Defoliation: Hi-Yield Technique?

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k33ftr33z

Member
hey all has their been any mention about the age of leaves? when i do trim leaves (which isnt much tbh) i try to take off the older ones as leaves slowly lose their photosynthesis efficiency as they age. im actually thinking about marking all the leaves late veg/early in flowering and then removing them later, allowing the newer leaves to do their job.

cheers

VG

That's a good place to start. No sense in littering up the works with overdone leaves.

If you are going to really apply this method, leaves never get a chance to age. No leaves are allowed more than about two weeks existence. You must start at the top, though in order to remove the shading. Removing lower leaf contributes nothing to the strategy of exposing usually shaded out mid and lower growth to premium light. Still remove that older shabby leaf wherever it is to keep it all tidy.

There really is no compromise to this method. You can start easy and try to save leaf but what happens when you see the results like all the mid growth exploding with the new exposure. It would serve logic that if you remove a little and there is good results than remove more and on and on until you get comfortable with stripping down these girls. I never thought I'd have to convince anyone to strip a fertile female.:laughing:
 

Grass Lands

Member
Veteran
Nice thread ya got going here, I've used this method for years with great results...Only I called it "plucking"...hehe...
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
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"Last run under 600w: 5.5
Latest run, same strain and light defoiliated: 11.75"


hey, bsO, that is great! what were your trim points?

thanks, d9
 

VerdantGreen

Genetics Facilitator
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That's a good place to start. No sense in littering up the works with overdone leaves.

If you are going to really apply this method, leaves never get a chance to age. No leaves are allowed more than about two weeks existence. You must start at the top, though in order to remove the shading. Removing lower leaf contributes nothing to the strategy of exposing usually shaded out mid and lower growth to premium light. Still remove that older shabby leaf wherever it is to keep it all tidy.

There really is no compromise to this method. You can start easy and try to save leaf but what happens when you see the results like all the mid growth exploding with the new exposure. It would serve logic that if you remove a little and there is good results than remove more and on and on until you get comfortable with stripping down these girls. I never thought I'd have to convince anyone to strip a fertile female.:laughing:

lol. yeah, you say some of the main reasons for you practicing this method is to keep plants under control and stop one plant taking over the grow, and my modular scrogs solve both of those problems anyway - plus getting all the buds at the same level removes some of the need for canopy penetration, BUT i am intrigued by your 'pitch' for this method more than ever before and, whilst i doubt i will ever remove leaves on the scale that you recommend, i would like to experiment with removing a few more than i do. also, with organic soil as my grow method, leaves have another useful function in proving a store of nutrition for the plant. i guess in hydro you can provide the nutes to the plants in a more precise manner and that insurance policy is not as necessary. many of my plants are strains that ive never run before so often i am guessing at exactly what it needs.

cool thread, i do think that some people will fall foul of this method because trying to be in total control is an addictive thing and im sure there is a point beyond which it becomes counter productive. i guess my philosophy is to give the plant as much control as possible because it knows best.... but i try to stay open minded ;)

cheers :tiphat:

VG
 

str8clandestine

New member
dear keeftreez, i use a 400 watt light, advanced nutrients, excellent genetics that have high potency and medicinal value, since i have a small space and 400 watt light, i am FORCED to maximize the canopies light exposure, so i chop off EVERYTHING that doesnt get light, or will not have the potential to turn into flowers, and/or waste the plants energy. Top chunky buds, rather than scraggly small ones on bottom, i agree with everything you say, because its the truth.
 

k33ftr33z

Member
dear keeftreez, i use a 400 watt light, advanced nutrients, excellent genetics that have high potency and medicinal value, since i have a small space and 400 watt light, i am FORCED to maximize the canopies light exposure, so i chop off EVERYTHING that doesnt get light, or will not have the potential to turn into flowers, and/or waste the plants energy. Top chunky buds, rather than scraggly small ones on bottom, i agree with everything you say, because its the truth.

hummm, sounds good...

but it sounds like you are describing the lollipop treatment.

This technique does not remove ANY producing sites and removes only leaf that shades those sites. Sounds like you are getting good results so carry on with what works well.

My proposition is that leaves may waste a plants' energy.
 

k33ftr33z

Member
lol. yeah, you say some of the main reasons for you practicing this method is to keep plants under control and stop one plant taking over the grow, and my modular scrogs solve both of those problems anyway - plus getting all the buds at the same level removes some of the need for canopy penetration, BUT i am intrigued by your 'pitch' for this method more than ever before and, whilst i doubt i will ever remove leaves on the scale that you recommend, i would like to experiment with removing a few more than i do. also, with organic soil as my grow method, leaves have another useful function in proving a store of nutrition for the plant. i guess in hydro you can provide the nutes to the plants in a more precise manner and that insurance policy is not as necessary. many of my plants are strains that ive never run before so often i am guessing at exactly what it needs.

cool thread, i do think that some people will fall foul of this method because trying to be in total control is an addictive thing and im sure there is a point beyond which it becomes counter productive. i guess my philosophy is to give the plant as much control as possible because it knows best.... but i try to stay open minded ;)

cheers :tiphat:

VG

Speculation and an open mind will get you everywhere in the world of trial and error.
 
C

Casual

Hey all... I've read the vast majority of this thread, and not sure if I missed this or not...

You should only do this method if you start out with it in Veg?? I'm about 6 days into Flowering and my plants are all pretty close together in 5 gallon buckets. The back row already looks like a hedge. Is this still valid at this point in the run?

Thanks!!

Caz
 

twrex

Member
Hey all... I've read the vast majority of this thread, and not sure if I missed this or not...

You should only do this method if you start out with it in Veg?? I'm about 6 days into Flowering and my plants are all pretty close together in 5 gallon buckets. The back row already looks like a hedge. Is this still valid at this point in the run?

Thanks!!

Caz

He said it works best if you start in veg because that helps reduce stretch and grow bushes. IF your plant is sufficiently bushy and healthy in flowering though it has been said that this can help.

If you're unsure or inexperienced though the best logic seems to be to take it slow so you don't accidentally fuck things up.
 
C

Casual

Well, here are some pics of my current grow... these pics are maybe 2 hours old. I think the large plants will benefit, they're just amazing... there are a few runts in the litter, I'll leave them alone.
I'm exactly 7 days into Flower right now.

Caz
 

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k33ftr33z

Member
Well, here are some pics of my current grow... these pics are maybe 2 hours old. I think the large plants will benefit, they're just amazing... there are a few runts in the litter, I'll leave them alone.
I'm exactly 7 days into Flower right now.

Caz

I'd say that this is the classic "don't do it" scenario. Although those plants are very healthy and lush they have not been prepared for the treatment and they would suffer. They may need some in a couple more weeks but the crowding is not too severe at this point. These may benefit from some lollipop. Actually another lamp would be the best thing for them.

Those will finish out beautifully as long as they remain as healthy as they are now.

While they are doing their thing it is a good time to prepare the next round in veg so get stripping those rooted clones.
 

k33ftr33z

Member
The decieving thing about those naturally leafed out plants is once they are stripped there is nothing there. Just stretch. My prepared candidates have 3 times the sites on the day they enter veg and are the same height.
 

twrex

Member
The decieving thing about those naturally leafed out plants is once they are stripped there is nothing there. Just stretch. My prepared candidates have 3 times the sites on the day they enter flower and are the same height.

ftfy


and also am glad you clarified, since I was a bit confused as to why it shouldn't be done.
 
C

Casual

Excellent, thanks Keef!! I'll let these go, just moving/snipping leaves that are in the way of bud sites instead of a major haircut! ;)

Caz
 
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