Rockwool Growers thead

[9240GrnMachine]

more stability, like rocket said...
thats alot of hydroton... just cover your trays with white plastic.. put an x where you want to place a cube then recover it up with the plastic... also pump some air into tyhe npow created plural space.. roots love this and all you have to deal with at the end is your cubes

 

[morocco blakk]

I been using the 6 inch but i seen some good results with the 4 inch from a friend of mine im definetly switching to the 4 inch then i've been growing into a 1/4 cocomat do you think my blocks will hold up once the roots grow into it?

 

[rocket high]

defo morrocco.... i use 3 inch with no real problems and one plant is yeilding 4+oz so you cant go wrong

 

[morocco blakk]

Thanks for info the info rocket high

 

[9240GrnMachine]

morocco.. i did the same system for a while... worked good, but didnt like the build up on the mat... so thats when i went to covering the entire tray with the plastic thing... wont go back..

 

[9240GrnMachine]

and by the way.. its the top of the tray not a layer on the bottom... saw a guy do this once... ugly!

 

[morocco blakk]

ok so you just let the roots grow out into the tray and the plastic lays on top to prevent the roots from being exosed to the light? i never seen anyone use that method until know maybe i will give it a shot thanks.

 

[!!!]

Rockwool has its flaws and I avoided it for awhile thinking the pH issues were killing my plants, but I ended up finding out that I was just overwatering and causing my plants to mold.

Rockwool cubes are excellent for rooting clones. My success rate is 100%. I literally just chop off a branch, soak it in water, make the stem cut (under water), dip in rooting hormone and put into the cube, and have roots in a week.

NOTE: I'm not sure how new this is but the 1.5" little rockwool cubes say that you only need to BRIEFLY soak them in pH 5.5 water. My friend gave me 16 clones in these cubes, soaked only for a few minutes in 5.5 water, and a week later 8 rooted so far.

 

[Herborizer]

Using rockwool here. It's the best! Though I am one of the rare drip to waste people. 6x6 cubes put into small pots with a thin layer of hydroton under the cube and then cover the top with hydroton. The idea here is to not get any light on the rockwool. I use two drippers per plant. All of the plants are on a flood table. Table has a drain tube that is plumbed outside.

I never ever flush until the last 10 days before chop. The secret to this is a wonder additive called drip clean. It's made by house and garden. It's cheap and lasts forever.

I also only water for 2 mins every other day. When watering I try to achieve about 2% run off. This is the key to my efficientcy. I swear I am a lot more efficient then recirculating setups. I have a 70 gal reservoir that I mix up twice per grow. 25 plants on my table. With airstones and beificials in my reservoir I am able to keep my nuts perfectly stable the whole time.

This setup is so freaking easy I don't know why it hasn't caught on out there.

 

[Herborizer]

Also, I only soak my rock wool in full strength nuts. No rinsing, no overnight treatments. Just soak in 5 gal buckets for about 30 mins in full strength nuts (Lucas formula).

 

[rocket high]

Good to here your system's working there's nothing better is there
Your right there's not alot of people doing it your way am interested tho... have you got pics ? keep it green herborizer

 

[9240GrnMachine]

morocco.. yes, lay the plastic across the top and attach it to your tray stands. i usually trim the hang over in the front up to the just below the lip of the tray. that way you can work on the res and see inside the tray if you have to. drop one of those snake air lines in the tray.
been using rockwool for 20 yrears!!! as for prep, i soak in 5.5 for a few minutes... and then squeeze all the air out of it.

 

[toohighmf]

I have used rockwool in dtw top drip systems, recirc drip systems, flooding, NFT, DWC, and to me. after leaching it of the lime, and draining it out properly through stacking via capillary action, and soaking in a light ph buffered BLOOM solution, the cubes, flocking, croutons, or slabs are finally inert substrates once the lime is removed so PH should be stabile.
Always transplant wet sarters into 75% drained rockwool. this will promote the most robust roots. Rockwool can be overwatered.

I find the less rockwool, the more feeds I can get away with. for my application, it works out great.

for flooding I used to run baskets and rocks with a 4x4x3" cube. the rocks were a pain in the ass and I hated stepping on them barefoot, or flooding rooms because the hydroton got kicked under a dwc bucket or worse.. a 110g res upstairs... I found that using a 1" coco mat to flood or top drip was much easier and cheaper than slabs, and the mat helps wick out the cubes faster.

In NFT I just use 4x4x2.5 cubes. they saturate well, flush easliy, and you get 188 in a case vs 144 delta 4x4's for the same price.

Here was notes I found from a detailed Rockwool grow guide I did for AN's distributor Mondo Pro Shop. Forgive the app rates and the fact that it's AN. there is a lot of info about how to prep, veg and bloom in various rockwool scenarios. I dont even want to read through the notes for errors, as I can't find the published documents, but take some time and sift through it. you may just learn a thing or 2.

stages of growth: propagation, vegetive stage, transition, bloom

STONEWOOL SOAK:

To properly pre soak stonewool and feed your plants exactly what they need and nothing more, you will need to use a reverse osmosis filter. this will strip the water of all the metals, disease, bleach, carbon and the dangerous chemicals of tap water like arsenic. Once your water is purified and stripped of everything, I use SensiCal-mg to replenish the water with the vital elements required to prevent deficiencies.

It is imperative to presoak stonewool ph'ed at 5.5 by using a leaching agent like Advanced Nutrients Final Phase to loosen up the lime in stonewool; as it is also important to rinse the cubes of the lime & final phase to "clean" the medium of anything undesired like lime or salts/sugars from the leaching agent. Allow cubes to soak in leaching solution for at least 4 hours. Over night is ideal, however you must have fresh water for the conditioning and stabilizing of stonewool to the desired PH. If PH fluxuates too much, your plants cannot uptake all the goodies your feeding them and will lock out nutrient and minerals causing deficiency. This could seriously reduce yields and the overall quality of your produce. Ideal PH for stonewool is
5.2-6.2. I like to start at 6.2 from week 1 of veg and drop the PH 1/10th of a point every week. If you are vegging in excess of 3 weeks, keep the PH at 6.2 until you go into bloom cycle. Then reduce .1 every week until you crop. When cloning, its best to actually raise the PH to 6.4 and allow it to decrease on its own. If the PH is not dropping, add a tiny amount of PH Down to get to your desired PH.




page 1
PROPAGATION / CLONING:
instructions for Hydroponics / Stonewool starter cubes
cloning in stone wool:
PH: starter cubes should be conditioned at a PH of 5.0 of 0 ppm filtered water after adding the rooting formula listed below:
1) Add Voodoo Juice at 30mL per liter or 1/2 teaspoon per quart. (2 tablespoons per US Gallon). mix thoroughly.
2) Add B-52 at 3mL. per liter or 1/2 Teaspoon per quart (2 tablespoons per US gallon). Mix thoroughly
3) Add Carbo Load at 1mL. per liter or 1/4 teaspoon per quart (1 teaspoon per US Gallon). Mix thoroughly.

Allow the cubes 2-4 hours to properly soak in the solution. The Alkaline structure of stone wool will automatically raise the PH until buffered. If the PH exceeds 6.4 in 4 hours, adjust the PH down to 5.5 and allow the PH to rise and stabilize between 5.5-6.4.
When the cubes and solution's PH are stabile, Drain the cubes by stacking them on top of each other as high as possible without knocking them over. They should be about 90% lighter than a cube that isn't drained. Capillary action will suck the solution from the top cube through the cubes below to drain through to the bottom cubes. this will help keep the cubes from being overwatered. Some people use a scale to measure a saturated cube vs. a drained cube. Do Not squeeze the bottom starter cubes to drain. repeat the process using the saturated bottom cubes on top to drain.

page 2

Once the cubes are drained, dip your clone in Advanced Nutrients "Clone it" rooting hormone gel, and stick the cutting in the cube until you feel the cutting penetrate the bottom of the hole into the cube. DO NOT Puncture the bottom of the cube. Try to get the cutting down 3/4's of the way through the starter cube. The cutting should stick tightly in the cube. After completing the cloning process it is recommended to spray the dome with a foliar mix of B-52 (2 mL. per liter.) 1/4 teaspoon per quart, (1 teaspoon per US Gallon)

Keep unrooted cuttings in a warm humid zone (70-80F / 60-70% relative humidity) under florescent lighting approximately 30 cm or 12" from the tops of the freshly dipped cutting. low wattage metal halide (70-400 watts) lamps also work well when high enough from the clone's canopy ranging from 30 cm, to 1.3 meters above depending on the wattage of the bulb.

Check all the clones daily. if humidity is under 60% use a humidome and spray the inside lid of the dome with the B-52 solution as recommended above. do not let the cubes completely dry out with in the first 4 days. after 4 days it is advisable to add enough solution to the bottom of your propagation tray for the cube to "wick" or suck up enough solution to keep the clone alive. If using a dome, but your cubes are not drying out, remove the dome for 20 minutes every day until the cube is drying out. then add solution. allow the cube to nearly dry out and roots should be visible from the bottom of the cube. If roots are present its time to feed with a mild batch of fertilizer.

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Roots usually take approximately 7-15 days to generate root growth. rooting clones need both moisture and aeration to accelerate root growth. If a cube is too wet, roots will never break through the cube and disease may form. If you allow the cube to dry a bit, the roots will search through the dry cube for moisture.
Once roots are established, give the rooted clone a dose of Advanced Nutrients Jump Start and B-52 as a foliar feeding program until there is enough roots to initiate a food regiment. feed with the same rooting solution used to soak the cubes until a root mass is generated.
next feeding, Fertilizer should be added in conjunction to Voodoo Juice, B-52, and Carbo Load. to optimize root and plant growth.
I recommend starting all clones at 300ppms of base nutrient, voodoo, B-52,
WEEK 1: TRANSPLANT

Once a clone has established a healthy, abundant root mass out of the starter cube, it is time to transplant into your Stonewool cubes and the 2+ feeding program starts from here on out. Because stone wool is so absorbent, we do not recommend weekly applications of beneficial fungi, bacteria, or microorganisms, other than enzymes to convert dead root mass and other organic carbohydrates to break down to useable Carbohydrates. Voodoo is used to continue the explosive root growth throughout the vegetive or "grow" cycle. It is also recommended to keep your hydrogarden extremely sterile. This is why we suggest not to use Tarantula, or Piranha with Stone wool with every weekly feeding.

page 4
Step 1:

PRE-SOAKING / CONDITIONING STONE WOOL FOR TRANSPLANT:

Fill large container, unused trash can, large storage container, reservior, etc. with
0 ppm Reverse osmosis filtered water.
Mix 300 ppms of your choice of Advanced Nutrients Base Nutrients like Advanced Nutrients Sensi Grow A&B, or the legendary 3 part. When using the 3 part It is recommended to use 3 parts grow, 2 parts micro, and 1 part bloom. We will discuss transition and bloom schedules a bit later, so keep reading!
Sensi Grow A&B shouold be mixed at equal parts. A ceramic pump is recommended to help properly mix the solution constantly.

PRE-SOAK MIX FOR STONE WOOL TRANSPLANTS- Vegetive week 1.
1) Add 5-10mL. of Advanced Nutrients Cal-mg per 4 liters 1-2 teaspoons per US Gallon.
2) Add Approximately 5-10 mL. of Advanced Nutrients Sensi grow part A 2 Part Formula Hydroponic Fertilizer per liter or 1/4 teaspoon per gallon. Repeat with Sensi Grow Part B, 2 part Fertilization program.

3) Add 5-10mL. Grandma Engy's Fulvic Acid per liter. or 1/2-1 teaspoon per US Gallon

4) Add 2mL. per Liter of B-52 or 1/2 teaspoon per US Gallon

5) Add Voodoo Juice at the rate of 2mL. Per Liter, or 1/2 teaspoon per US Gallon
Desired ppm: 300
6) add Piranha (1st & 4th week feeding only) at .2 grams or quarter teaspoon per gallon
7) repeat with tarantula

PH Solution to 5.5.

Add cubes, cubicles, flocking or slabs into the solution. Submerse completely in to Nutrient solution. Allow 4-8 hours for stone wool PH to rise from 5.5-6.4. If PH rises above 6.4 adjust again to 5.5 PH. let sit until stabilized and carefully stuff the rooted clone into any of the stone wool mediums mentioned above. I strongly recommend using Piranha and Tarantula at 1/6th bottle strength in stonewool as the Anti Caking agents in these products can actually clog the pores or the stonewool if used more than once for colonization. I recommend using these products every three weeks until the 4th week of bloom. this will keep the products from clogging the medium.
Before transplanting it is recommended to drain the stone wool near dry, so the freshly transplanted clone will look harder for food sources in the near dry environment, anchoring the clone to the transplanted medium. if using cubicles, or flocking, be sure to cover the roots well with cubicles or flocking to keep light out of your rhizoshere or root zone, as light will kill roots and cause disease.
It is also recommended to feed when near dry to develop an active root zone. Overwatering or fertilizing is the Most common mistake by new growers. A little goes a long way. Under fertilizing or feeding can easily be corrected. An overfertilized or overwatered plant can take much longer to revive, slowing vegetive growth and possibly stunting the clone permanently.
Feed through out week 1 only when medium is dry to the touch or very light in weight.

page 5
Some tips for Stonewool users
Notes: it is a good idea to check your Solution's electric conductivity i.e EC or
TDS/PPM and PH daily. If your PPMs are dropping, as well as the solution level in the res, and your PH is slightly raising, your doing Great! If the ppms are raising, its time to flush. This dictates whether or not to feed or flush. if your solutions PPM is raising as the the week progresses, top off the resivoir with PH'ed water preventing the medium's stored salts to build up, causing nutrient lockout. Its better to play it safe and keep a steady gradual increase of dosage weekly, and topping off the res w fresh ph'd water, allowing the nutrient solutions PPMs to slowly drop through out the week until your next resivior change.
In hydroponics, less is often more. Most cases of crop failure occur from over fertilizing, over watering, Infestation, or PH fluctuations causing lock outs of nutrients. Its always better to be safe than sorry. love your plants. give them just what they want, and the plants will give you what you want in the end. If you just keep burning the plants with heavy concentrations of nutrients, you will kill them. Make your plants hungry for food. this way the weekly increase will really stimulate growth, and the less you'll have to flush out your plants.
An experienced grower can feed stone wool the whole way through the bloom cycle until the final flushing and ripening of the plant if they allow the plants to drink whats in the solution and gradually increase the first weekly feeding with a higher concentration of nutrient. Mild PH fluctuations can be beneficial when PH is buffered to 5.5-6.0 through out the week. This will allow for other various elements or minerals to be available that you may not achieve if you kept your PH totally stabile.

page 6

VEGETIVE GROWTH-WEEK 2: Stone wool cubes, cublets, flocking or slabs.

By the end of the first week, your root system should be well established and your starter cubes should be pushing roots through the bottom of the larger transplanted cube. once roots emerge through the bottom, it is either time to transplant to a larger cube or desired system like a DWC system, rotating garden, stone wool slab or my personal favorite... A 1" thick coco mat! the coco mats have natural michorizae and beneficials to maintain a healthy garden, while giving the stonewool something to leach from and anchoring to the mat where roots just love to dig around searching for moisture. You may also use stone wool Grow cubes or as I call them "croutons" . or "Cublets."
Cublets are usually 1/2" mini cubes that resemble a crouton in a salad. cublets have great oxygen to water ratios, and roots love to "search" through the cublets for fresh nutrient sources. Cublets work great under a starter cube or full size cube, as the the cublets will help wick the nutrient solution out of the top cube to the bottom cublets.
When Cublets are used in a recirculating drip system, it is recommended to mix or fill the bottom of the pot or tray with hydroton expanded clay pellets. A 50/50 mix is a great way to keep your plants from overwatering, and helps anchor the plants as they root through the mix. the hydroton will allow nutrient solution to run down through the cubes and disperse the solution properly through the cublets and around the base of the plant.
Others like to fill the bottom of the grow container with 2-3" of hydroton, and pour the cublets on top. this will ease drainage, preventing high concentrations of salt buildup that can lead to over fertilizing, or Nutrient Lock Out. This will also help wick the cublets, allowing for more feedings daily.
A cube alone, without anything underneath it to drain, can stay wet for upwards of a week. This will cause roots to become "lazy" and possibly drown in the nutrient solution, as well as cause disease. there is nothing more dangerous to a crop than stagnant nutrient solution. Never constantly water any plant when a growing medium is used. The only acceptable application of constant feeding is to grow aeroponic, or in DWC systems where Hydroton rock has no water retention capabilities, and your roots soak in a highly oxygenated bath of nutrient solution. Even if you are just using a 1" starter cube in hydroton. There is Absolutely no need to constantly feed with these applications. A couple of great quotes from Tek Mike of Advanced Nutrients is "If it aint dry, dont apply", and He also states "When in doubt, flush it out! I cant agree more with these great words!

page 7
CONVENTIONAL STONEWOOL GROWING METHODS:
1) EBB & FLOW: THE SIMPLISTIC WAY TO GROWING WITH ROCKWOOL
otherwise known as flood & drain. Although Ebb & Flow systems are not my favorite way to fertigate, Though it is definately the easiest method. There are a few great ways to flood and drain stone wool. Heres what is recommended for ease of growing and best yields when flooding a table:

The easiest, cleanest and most efficient way to flood a table with stone wool is to transplant from a 1" starter cube or rapid rooter to a 4x4, 6x6'x4" or a 6"x6" stone wool cube. Place the cube in the tray on top of a stone wool slab, croutons or even hydroton works well. My new favorite, is a 1" thick coco mat. The slab will suck up the nutrient solution and wick the 6" cube wet when it is drying out.
The Problem with stone wool slabs is they can hold entirely too much solution. It could be several days before your plants are dried out enough to drink, creating a "lazy" root system, and you use a lot of nutrient solution to saturate those slabs. When using the 1" thick coco mats, I noticed the roots instantly loved them. Coco mats are very pourus and are very loosely meshed together allowing for cubes to drain, while roots search through the near dry coco mat for moisture. Coco also has natural beneficials increasing root strength, size, and overall health.
6" cubes can be fed on a 1" coco mat about every 4-5 hours during light cycles. without the coco mat, it may take several days for the cube to dry out, again creating lazy root syndrome. The faster a medium can drain, the faster you can feed. the more feedings a plant can uptake in a day, the more vigorous the growth will be. Much like a body builder and their metabolism.
The harder a root works to find food, the hungrier the plant will get when it receives nutrition as the plant strengthens. It is recommended to top feed the table manually at first when the cubes feel dry, until the root system has made its way through the slab or coco mat, and roots are visable under the slab or mat. Once the root system is well anchored to the slab, croutons, hydroton or coco mat, and the plants have adapted to their new environment, it is time to start feeding on a schedule as mentioned below:

page 8

Feed Schedule for week 2.
Recommended PH 6.2
Desired TDS/PPM 500-700ppm

1) Add 5-10ml Advanced Nutrients CALmg per 4 liters. or 1/2 to 1 tsp. per US Gallon

2) Add 10-20ml Advanced Nutrients Sensi grow A&B ea. per liter or 1-2 tsp. per US Gallon.

3) Add 5-10mL. Advanced Nutrients Grandma Engy's Fulvic Acid per liter. or 1/2-1 teaspoon per US Gallon

4) Add 3mL. per Liter of Advanced Nutrients B-52 Fertilizer Booster or 3/4 teaspoon per US Gallon

5) Add Advanced Nutrients Voodoo Juice at the rate of 30mL. Per Liter, or 3/4 teaspoon per US Gallon

6) Add 3-5mL. of Advanced Nutrients Sensizym per liter, or 3/4-1tsp per US Gallon

7) Add 1-2 mL. of Advanced Nutrients Carbo load per liter or 1/4 tsp. per US Gallon

8) Add .5mL. Advanced Nutrients Barricade per liter or 1/8 tsp. per US Gallon

Allow 1-2 hours for solution to properly mix. use a recirculating pump to help agitate the solution to fully mix. PH adjust to 6.2. Check TDS or PPM.
Solution TDS should read approximately 600ppm. Give or take 50ppm is fine. If your solution is higher than 650, adjust with Reverse osmosis water and recalibrate PH.

Once Solution is mixed to the recommended PH and TDS, your nutrient solution is ready for feeding.

page 9


Writers note: Something to reflect on..

In most gardens today, People are counting on optimal yields in the shortest time possible. The only way to achieve the biggest time saving advantage, is to grow multiple small plants in the same area it would take to grow 1 large plant. Yields have been proven to almost double in weight and quality, growing several small plants over the same surface area as 1 large plant. The quality is usually much higher as everything on a small plant is receiving so much more light coverage and itensity, evenly though out the canopy. With Larger plants, much of the fruit is too small at the bottom to even ingest! Hardly a "bumper" crop!
Why waste so much time in the vegetive cycle? Time is money. electric consumption is expensive. harvest more crops annually! it's a win win situation!

page 10

VEGETIVE GROWTH WEEK 3 TO BLOOM STAGE: Stone wool

Feed Schedule for week 3.
Recommended PH 6.1
Desired TDS/PPM 800-900ppm

1) Add 5-10ml of Advanced Nutrients CALmg per 4 liters. or 1/2 to 1 tsp. per US Gallon

2) Add 20-30 ml of Advanced Nutrients Sensi grow A&B ea. per liter or 2-3 tsp. per US Gallon.

3) Add 5-10mL. of Advanced Nutrients Grandma Engy's Fulvic Acid per liter. or 1/2-1 teaspoon per US Gallon

4) Add 5mL. per Liter of B-52 or 1/2 teaspoon per US Gallon

5) Add Voodoo Juice at the rate of 5mL. Per Liter, or 3/4 teaspoon per US Gallon

6) Add 3-5mL. of Sensizym per liter, or 3/4-1tsp per US Gallon

7) Add 1-2 mL. of Carbo load per liter or 1/4 tsp. per US Gallon

8) Add .5mL. Barricade per liter or 1/8 tsp. per US Gallon

Allow 1-2 hours for solution to properly mix. use a recirculating pump to help agitate the solution to fully mix. PH adjust to 6.1. Check TDS or PPM.
Solution TDS should read approximately 900ppm. Give or take 50ppm is fine. If your solution is higher than 1000, adjust with Reverse osmosis water and recalibrate PH. If vegging longer than 3 weeks keep nutrient solution steady at 1000ppm by adding 1/4-1/2 tsp of Sensi A & B Grow formula until ready to bloom.
*This feeding program will be used from the begining of vegetive week 3, to day 1 of 7-week fruits or veggies. If growing tropical fruits from an equatorial region with finishing times of 9-12+ weeks, continue with the vegetive feeding formula above for the first 2 weeks of the 12 hour bloom cycle.

page 11

TRANSITIONAL PHASE TO BLOOM- FOR 7-8 WEEK BLOOMS
(For 9+ week blooms, continue with the Vegetive growth feeding program for week 3, through out the first 2 weeks of the 12 hour bloom cycle).
day 1:
Flush system of Grow Nutrient with 0ppm Reverse osmosis water. 6.0 PH is recommended when flushing.
mix 1st week 2+ bloom solution:

Feed Schedule for Bloom cycle week 1.
Recommended PH 6.0
Desired TDS/PPM 900-1000ppm

1) Add 5-10ml of Advanced Nutrients CALmg per 4 liters. or 1/2 to 1 tsp. per US Gallon

2) Add 20-30 ml of Advanced Nutrients Sensi Bloom A&B ea. per liter or 2-3 tsp. per US Gallon.

3) Add 5-10mL. of Advanced Nutrients Grandma Engy's Fulvic Acid per liter. or 1/2-1 teaspoon per US Gallon

4) Add 15mL. per Liter of B-52 or 1-1/2 tablespoons per US Gallon

5) Add Voodoo Juice at the rate of 5mL. Per Liter, or 3/4 teaspoon per US Gallon

6) Add 3-5mL. of Sensizym per liter, or 3/4-1tsp per US Gallon

7) Add 1-2 mL. of Carbo load per liter or 1/4 tsp. per US Gallon

8) Add 2mL. Barricade per liter or 1/4 tsp. per US Gallon

Once Solution is mixed to the recommended PH and TDS, your nutrient solution is ready for Week 1 feeding.

page 12

When medium is well drained, 1st application Of the 2+ bloom schedule should be used immediately to accelerate flowering. At FIrst indications of the flowering stage, you should see pre flowers or little White "hairs" growing from each leaf set in as early as 3 days. However, most fruits and flowers take upwards of 7-14 days. Once these Pre Flowers are established, It is good time to implement Advanced Nutrients BIG BUD in conjunction to the 2+ program.

WEEK 2: 2+ BLOOM FEEDING SCHEDULE
Feed Schedule for Bloom cycle week 2.
Recommended PH 5.5-5.9
Desired TDS/PPM 1100-1200ppm

1) Add 5-10ml of Advanced Nutrients SensiCALmg per 4 liters. or 1/2 to 1 tsp. per US Gallon or 150-175 ppms.

2) Add 20-30 ml of Advanced Nutrients Sensi Bloom A&B ea. per liter or 2-3 tsp. per US Gallon. or mixed at 800 ppms.

3) Add 5-10mL. of Advanced Nutrients Grandma Engy's Fulvic Acid per liter. or 1/2-1 teaspoon per US Gallon

4) Add 15mL. per Liter of Advanced Nutrients B-52 or 1-1/2 tablespoons per US Gallon

5) Add Advanced Nutrients Big bud powder at rate of 3.5 Grams per liter or 10-15ml for liquid formula.
*Big bud can also be mixed to 250-300 TDS or PPM in your res.

6) Add 5-10mL. of Sensizym per liter, or 1-2 tsp. per US Gallon

7) Add 3-5 mL. of Carbo load per liter or 1/4 tsp. per US Gallon

page 13

(*notes for applications with Carbo Load for stone wool ):
apply as a stand alone product mixed well in ph'ed water and add at the beginning of the first feeding of every other week. the chrystaline structure of Carbo Load can clog stonewool mediums if added to every feeding unless the medium is kept moist. If solution dries in stone wool, the Carbo Load may harden back to its original chrystaline base, causing nutrient solution to run off cubes instead of penetrating and draining through the stonewool medium. Carbo Load is also recommended to be applied during any flush as the complex sugars will help break down any salt build up if any. Carbo Load can be used to flush in the final ripening stage up until 3 days prior to harvest to leach salts and "plump" up fruits and veggies, as well as increase sugar production. it is also recommended to flush with plain Ph'd water of 5.5 for the last 3-7 days of the ripening stage, or until obvious deficiency is predominate. A yellow plant at the end is a well flushed plant. A Green plant means fertilizer is still in your crop, affecting the taste, and aroma and potency of your crop.

8) Add 2-5mL. Barricade per liter or 1/4-1/3 tsp. per US Gallon
*notes for Barricade:
Some Experience growers use Barricade as a PH adjuster, as it will raise the PH.
When Bloom Nutrients are mixed, the PH tends to drop to the low 5 range. Pros will use Barricade to raise the PH to normal levels. This is why we advise Barricade to be used last when mixing your res. It is also recommended to allow nutrient solution to mix for at least 2 hours prior to use, though overnight is highly recommended to avoid any major PH fluctuations which could cause nutrient lockout, preventing your plants from the uptake of vital nutrients and trace minerals. Proper PH dictates what your plants will eat and what not to eat. It is the most important factor of plant nutrition.
Before feeding, check and make final PH corrections.

page 14

WEEK 3 FEED SCHEDULE FOR STONE WOOL

*Notes for week 3

Plants should be well on their way and fruit should be forming at all bud sites. Plants may need a faster feeding schedule as plants in mid bloom drink more to produce food. B-52 should no longer be needed with 7-8 week finishers, as the stress of the transitional light cycle change is not a concern this far into the bloom cycle. Replace B-52 with more sensi A&B Bloom to increase Nutrient solution's PPMs.
If growing equatorial fruits or veggies that take longer than 9 weeks, it is advised to use B-52 an additional week, sometimes 2 depending on the overall health.
For 9+ week finishers, this would be the first week to add WEEK 1 2+ BLOOM FORMULA.

Feed Schedule for Bloom cycle week 3.
Recommended PH 5.5-5.9
Desired TDS/PPM 1200-1300ppm

1) Add 5-10ml of Advanced Nutrients CALmg per 4 liters. or 1/2 to 1 tsp. per US Gallon or 150-175 ppms.

2) Add 30-40 ml of Advanced Nutrients Sensi Bloom A&B ea. per liter or 2-3 tsp. per US Gallon. or mixed at 1000 ppms.

3) Add 5-10mL. of Advanced Nutrients Grandma Engy's Humic & Fulvic Acid per liter. or 1-2 tsp. per US Gallon

4) Add Advanced Nutrients Big bud powder at rate of 3.5 Grams per liter or 30-40ml for liquid formula.
*Big bud can also be mixed to 250-300 TDS or PPM in your res.

5) Add 5-10mL. of Sensizym per liter, or 1-2 tsp. per US Gallon

6) Add 5-10 mL. of Carbo load per liter or 1/2-1 tsp. per US Gallon

7) Add 5mg. Piranha & Tarantula

page 15

WEEK 4 2+ FEED SCHEDULE

*Notes for week 4: Flowers or fruit should be growing forming larger fruits and sugars should be forming. This is going to be week 1 of peak feeding week for 7-8 week finishers. Since this is the week we expect to see the most substantial growth of your blooms, we recommend using a little more Sensi A&B, Big Bud Carbo Load to help "plump" up the developing fruit or flower in this critical stage.


Feed Schedule for Bloom cycle week 4.
Recommended PH 5.5-5.9
Desired TDS/PPM 1300-1450ppm

1) Add 5-10ml of Advanced Nutrients CALmg per 4 liters. or 1/2 to 1 tsp. per US Gallon or 150-175 ppms.

2) Add 40-50 ml of Advanced Nutrients Sensi Bloom A&B ea. per liter or 4-5 tsp. per US Gallon. or mixed at 1100 ppms.

3) Add 5-10mL. of Advanced Nutrients Grandma Engy's Humic & Fulvic Acid per liter. or 1-2 tsp. per US Gallon

4) Add Advanced Nutrients Big bud powder at rate of 3.5-4.0 Grams per liter or 35-40ml for liquid formula.
*Big bud can also be mixed to 300-350 TDS or PPM in your res.

5) Add 10m-15mL. of Sensizym per liter, or 1-1/2-2 tsp. per US Gallon

6) Add 5 mL. of Carbo load powder per liter or 1/2 tsp. per US Gallon. For liquid
add 15mL. or 1 tablespoon

*notes for week 5
7-8 week finishing flowers should really be putting on size and forming some good size flowers. Its time to start gradually reducing the Nutrient PPMs , So we recommend reverting back to week 3 feeding schedule for a 7 weak flower, and continue on with week 4 feeding schedule for 8 week finishers.
If running a 7 weak finisher,and you like to flush for 10+ days it is time to replace Big Bud with Overdrive. Overdrive will pack on the final girth and sugar production, as well as prepare the plant for maturation prior to the final flush. It is also good to maintain a healthy dose of sensi zym and Carbo Load in the final weaks of bloom and ripening, as this is when the most substantial weight gain and sugar production and overall size will increase. Sensi zym is used at its highest concentration to break down any dead or rotting rootmas and any other necrotic waste to convert to another form of carbohydrates beneficial to plant health,flower or fruit growth as well as sugar production, and disease prevention.

page 16

WEEK 5, 7 WEEK BLOOM SCHEDULE

Feed Schedule for Bloom cycle week 5.
Recommended PH 5.5-5.9
Desired TDS/PPM 1300-1450ppm

1) Add 5-10ml of Advanced Nutrients CALmg per 4 liters. or 1/2 to 1 tsp. per US Gallon or 150-175 ppms.

2) Add 40-50 ml of Advanced Nutrients Sensi Bloom A&B ea. per liter or 4-5 tsp. per US Gallon. or mixed at 1100 ppms.

3) Add 5-10mL. of Advanced Nutrients Grandma Engy's Humic & Fulvic Acid per liter. or 1-2 tsp. per US Gallon

4) Add Advanced Nutrients Big bud powder at rate of 3.5-4.0 Grams per liter or 35-40ml for liquid formula.
*Big bud can also be mixed to 200-300 TDS or PPM in your res.

5) Add 10m-15mL. of Sensizym per liter, or 1-1/2-2 tsp. per US Gallon

6) Add 5 mL. of Carbo load powder per liter or 1/2 tsp. per US Gallon. For liquid
add 15mL. or 1 tablespoon.

WEEK 8 Bloom Schedule:

FLUSH.

Week 9 Bloom Schedule:

FLUSH



CLIMATE CONTROL:
CLIMATE TEMPERATURE RANGE: During lights-on cycle, between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. During lights-off cycle, between 64 and 71 degrees Fahrenheit. Ideal day cycle growing temperature without C02 augmentation: 73 degrees Fahrennheit/23 degrees Centigrade. Ideal day cycle temperature with C02 augmentation: 76 degrees Fahrenheit/24.5 degrees Centigrade. (Centigrade is the same as Celsius).

WATER/NUTRIENT SOLUTION TEMPERATURE:
68 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit.

 

[Herborizer]

Good to here your system's working there's nothing better is there
Your right there's not alot of people doing it your way am interested tho... have you got pics ? keep it green herborizer

I love it. Here is a picture I took today. I am running a 600w HPS with a Magnum xxxl hood. This grow I tried growing a few flowering clones and it's been an interesting experiment. Next round I will go back to normal. You can see how dense some of those bushes ended up, those are the flowering clones. Pic below.

These are mostly GDP with a couple PK's and a random.

 

[rocket high]

those are fat little girls ...looking real good ...you might be on to something .
Do you collect the slight run off in a res and use else where e.g house plants or alike
or is there no run off at all...which is really economical

 

[rocket high]

Feed Schedule for week 2.
Recommended PH 6.2
Desired TDS/PPM 500-700ppm

1) Add 5-10ml Advanced Nutrients CALmg per 4 liters. or 1/2 to 1 tsp. per US Gallon

2) Add 10-20ml Advanced Nutrients Sensi grow A&B ea. per liter or 1-2 tsp. per US Gallon.

3) Add 5-10mL. Advanced Nutrients Grandma Engy's Fulvic Acid per liter. or 1/2-1 teaspoon per US Gallon

4) Add 3mL. per Liter of Advanced Nutrients B-52 Fertilizer Booster or 3/4 teaspoon per US Gallon

5) Add Advanced Nutrients Voodoo Juice at the rate of 30mL. Per Liter, or 3/4 teaspoon per US Gallon

6) Add 3-5mL. of Advanced Nutrients Sensizym per liter, or 3/4-1tsp per US Gallon

7) Add 1-2 mL. of Advanced Nutrients Carbo load per liter or 1/4 tsp. per US Gallon

8) Add .5mL. Advanced Nutrients Barricade per liter or 1/8 tsp. per US Gallon

Is this an advert for advanced nute's lol .....jus kidding
but thats alot of products to be using ..he must be rich lol

 

[EastBayGrower]

wow guys time to get out of the 1980's!!

personally i hate that shit, and think there are alot better mediums (coco)

i mean it doesnt get overwatered like RW and it just seems like the roots like it better

but to each his own... i wish everyone GOOD LUCK

 

[toohighmf]

As I mentioned, I wrote this for AN years ago when I worked for them. I also said not look at the dosing, but the notes about rockwool. FUCK AN. They are fucking pigs.

 

[Herborizer]

those are fat little girls ...looking real good ...you might be on to something .
Do you collect the slight run off in a res and use else where e.g house plants or alike
or is there no run off at all...which is really economical

There is very very little run-off. I just run it outside. Maybe a couple of cups goes outside every two days.

 

[Herborizer]

wow guys time to get out of the 1980's!!

personally i hate that shit, and think there are alot better mediums (coco)

i mean it doesnt get overwatered like RW and it just seems like the roots like it better

but to each his own... i wish everyone GOOD LUCK

Why coco over rockwool? I am not against changing things up. My concern is that I thought Coco changes the nute regimen. If so, thats an X-factor that doesn't sound fun. One of my favorite features of rockwool is that its an inert medium.