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Is flushing bullshit?

yoss33

Well-known member
Veteran
QFT

Even reducing your nutrient build late in flowering so the plant uses up most/all of the salts in the soil is practically the same as flushing, even if it's not pouring gallons and gallons of plain water over your medium.

Back when I was still getting buds from the dispensaries, un- or under-flushed bud was extremely prevalent. Really easy to identify--it was always dense hard-as-rock indica that had a really scummy plant food flavor and gave me rocking headaches. After I switched to a cleaner supply and stopped using bic lighters, the headaches went away.

That's surprising cuz I use BIC lighters and I've never felt there's something wrong with their fire. Headaches from the fire? I wonder what sniffing butane will do to you :)
 
L

LolaGal

I think flushing can help some strains and other strains do not really matter.

Take DJ's Grape Krush. I have harvested both flushed and unflushed buds. Flushing definitely made a smoother smoke on this strain. Lots less coughing.

Nirvana's Cali fornia Orange Bud, doesn't really need flushing, tastes the same flushed or unflushed.

Now Nirvana White Rhino actually tastes and does better unflushed.

So I think one should grow a strain for several harvests to really get a feel for what it needs.

Overfed plants definitely need flushing, but underfed ones dont.

Don't even get me started on flavored additives... eek, they change the taste forever, can't flush em out.
 
What you want is the lowest amount of "stuff" in the bud interfering or blocking the taste of the terpenes when smoked. I suspect bud that tastes fine unflushed has more to do with plants being properly fed in the first place rather than not being flushed. Again, much of the confusion in this whole debate on flushing stems from not having a standard definition of flushing. Whatever means by which you reduce the amount of fire retardant salts in the finished product is "flushing" imo. It can be flushing nutrients out of soil, giving straight water only in the last weeks in hydro, girdling plant stems to stop nutrient transfer(a technique I am still curious about), whatever. I don't believe this needs to be a mystery any longer...

I will post this thread again because I want to emphasize its value.....Crazy Composer has this shit 100% figured out imho; listen to him....

http://icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=154288
 
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LolaGal

sorry so sorry

sorry so sorry

wtf lola?!?! i bought floranectar on your reccomendation

Oh it works good!

but if you had read the WHOLE thread, you would have noticed that after I harvested the buds, the taste was changed, and I said I would not recommend it, unless you like berry flavor weed.

not gonna use it again... yuck.
 

truecannabliss

TrueCanna Genetics - Selection is art
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
The idea of not either flushing or at least giving plain water for a minimum of the last couple of weeks seems crazy to me, i would love to see where anything not done that way finished in a competition like the 4/20 cup, after all the proof is in the pudding and all the best weed i ever smoked was clean of nutes(plants leaves yellowed off and bud ready for harvest).
Peace
 
That's surprising cuz I use BIC lighters and I've never felt there's something wrong with their fire. Headaches from the fire? I wonder what sniffing butane will do to you :)

There's nothing wrong with the fire... until you interrupt the flame.

Try this: get an old coffee mug you don't particularly care about (you may end up cracking it) and a bic lighter.

Spark a flame and hold it under the mug as if to heat it where the flame is positioned so the tip is just not touching. You'll notice the mug gets hot and stays clean. Now, move the flame so that it's touching the mug in the middle of the flame. Notice it's pouring carbon black all over the mug.

Butane is H4C10, 4 atoms of hydrogen and 10 of carbon. When you light your bic, the bottom blue part of the flame is where all of the hydrogen burns up. The remaining yellow/orange part of the flame is where the carbon burns. Carbon cannot burn until it joins with oxygen, therefore if you interrupt the flame the unburned carbon will precipitate.

Whenever you bury your bic lighter in your bowl/end of your joint, you're effectively pouring carbon black all over it. This is what dirties the bowl/gives me headaches. I'm sure you're familiar with the "ass hit" or last hit of a big fat pass-it-around bong bowl. The "ass hit" can be made much, much more pleasant by igniting the bowl through non-combustive means such as a heated glass rod or a magnifying glass solar hit.

Furthermore, using a butane torch alleviates the problem of carbon precipitate. It will introduce a 30% oxygen mixture before ignition, resulting in a much more efficient burn that doesn't leave anything behind. If you take a butane torch to your same mug, you'll notice that not only does it not leave a residue when you interrupt the flame, but it will even burn off the excess carbon the bic left behind!

Useful to know: the torch will burn about 200ºF hotter than the bic, but as the bic is already burning at about 1900ºF, I don't see it as a big deal.

Finally: some advice on properly lighting joints. It kills me to see people sucking on a fresh joint with a bic flame engulfing the end. I've appropriated my technique from cigar connoisseur books I read back when I still had an interest in tobacco.

Use a butane torch and heat the end of the J until it is glowing. You can blow on it (like a birthday candle) and if it glows then it's ready to hit. If not, flame it longer. Now, this is the most important part: WHENEVER YOU LIGHT OR RELIGHT THE J, BEFORE YOU INHALE THROUGH IT ALWAYS BLOW OUT THROUGH IT FIRST. This is the same concept as the carbon mug: when you light the J not only will there be butane carbon if you're using a bic, but there's the carbon that results from simply burning organic material. This will be sitting at the end of your J and when you inhale, you pull it all into the J so it gets lodged in the fresh clean bud and more and more as you pull through the J it will taste like ass. If when you light/relight the J, you blow THROUGH it first, it will dislodge some/most of that nascent carbon so the subsequent drags are clean and delicious.
 

Hydro-Soil

Active member
Veteran
Properly grown organic soil grows may not need to be flushed.... but I've run across way too many dispensary meds that tasted like they had too much tea.


No need to drown soil.... just give your plants plain water for 20 days.... is that so hard?

Stay Safe! :tree:
 

toohighmf

Well-known member
Veteran
I don't care what medium, or fert. A plant must metabolize all its reserves in its fans and yellow up and fall off to fully mature. taste the funk, not the ferts..
 
+1 on the torch lighter. Mine just died and I am temporarily using a Bic lighter after 2+ years using torches and I must say that Bic lighters truly suck ass. They literally pour fuel over your medicine as they burn rich (car guy speak).

Torch lighters also are much more discrete when smoking in the dark...no sparks or bright flames to draw attention. This I know from fishing in at night. When fisherman in other boats smoke bowls their Bic lighters sparks and flame can be seen literally hundreds of yards away... not so for the torch lighters. Torch lighters are also more resistant to wind.

And as mentioned torch lighters make your smoke taste far better that traditional lighters.

But if you feed chemicals until harvest go ahead and use a Bic.
 
C

cyber echo

How about a vaporizer ?
Most chemicals would not even evaporate at 150-170C.

As for flushing, the technique has been around for ages and already tested by shitloads of people. To say it is bullshit would be to go against the advice of lots of reputable ppl.

Some mediums, coco/hydro, need a less intense flush, as in simply stopping the nutes and only giving water for the last few days.
A friend got way better taste from 7day flushed bud than 5 day flushed bud. The 5day flushed bud needed a longer cure to become "clean" smoke.

Again, I do not think it would matter much while using a vaporizer.
 

Duckmang

Member
I'm from the don't flush / minimal flush camp and have great results. I get that b/c I use coco in a recirc drip feed. I get great control over what is happening at the root zone and as such I try to prevent buildups that need to be flushed out in the first place.
 

Japanfreakier

Active member
Veteran
I would call that leaching.

Flushing or leaching pots

Periodically, it is necessary to "flush" the build up of fertilizer salts from the growing media. To do this, about once a month run plain water through the pot 1 - 3 times when you need to water. This will flush out the build up of salts in your pot. Not flushing, or leaching the pots will cause fertilizer burn which you will see as blackened root tips and browned leaf ends. Follow your regular fertilizing schedule after flushing.

Same thing different names
 

Scrogerman

Active member
Veteran
Rockwool needs doing all the time, weekly or at least fortnightly imo! I agree with you man! Btw, its better for flushing salt build up out of subs with a very weak fert solution of 200ppms or so, The weak solution acts as a magnet and helps draw out the excess, much more effective than just ph'd water!
 
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