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vonforne
That was water application wit the K-mag. It was in the larger containers on a continuous basis.
I think CC made some tests and he used 1 TSP per gallon as a soil drench. I was using mine a little thinner.
V
Tutorial Organics for Beginners
- Thread starter BurnOne
- Start date
That was water application wit the K-mag. It was in the larger containers on a continuous basis.
I think CC made some tests and he used 1 TSP per gallon as a soil drench. I was using mine a little thinner.
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vonforne
48% plant available free silica was my translation on this. I found another one that was only 21%. I also found some Sul-PO-Mag but not soluble. As CC said it is her in Germany. It is but I must order from the Co. themselves and I do not like mail order here.
grapeman, you have been posting like hell in here. You came a long way since meeting MM and CT.....huh? Good job man.
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vonforne
dev0n
Member
That is definitely a huge plus in starting composting. Assuming you're planning on carrying this through to a complete compost for soil (which might be a bad assumption), I would suggest you build on this by adding to your composter:
Manure (not pet poo!)
Coffee grounds
Biodegradable paper
Tea bags
Potting soil
Veggie and fruit scraps
Plant stalks
Grass clippings - from your lawn not from your weed trim
And I add alfalfa meal just to cheat a little ...
I generally avoid
Pet droppings
Bread or grains
Meat
Grease/oil
Foods high in grease/oil for that matter (read:McDonalds)
Plants with diseases
Seeds of any kind
Don't forget to turn it regularly!
Best of luck whichever route you take ...
Hey everyone!
I have a request and two questions:
Request: I am going to mix up one of the LC recipes, but my local hydro store doesn't carry Promix and I don't really want to use FFOF. Can someone just make a quick list of soils/mixes that are organic and acceptable to use in the LC recipes? I saw some stuff that I had never heard of (Roots, Canna something, etc.) but if anyone could just jot down a few names they know/approve of, that would rock.
Question 1: If I brew 5 gallons of tea, do I need to use all 5 gallons right away? Or can I just let it sit, or leave the airstone/pump going, or what? It seems like it would be hard to anticipate how much tea you're going to need to make (especially when you're new to growing)!
Question 2: I live in SoCal and so my tap water probably isn't the greatest (although I live a block from the ocean, but I don't know if that affects it at all). Can I just bubble the water for 24 hours before adding anything else, or will it still be too poor to make quality teas?
SubQuestion 2: Is there an easy solution like some sort of Pur water filter that I can just attach to my faucet or hose in the backyard to avoid any issues?
Thanks!
I have a request and two questions:
Request: I am going to mix up one of the LC recipes, but my local hydro store doesn't carry Promix and I don't really want to use FFOF. Can someone just make a quick list of soils/mixes that are organic and acceptable to use in the LC recipes? I saw some stuff that I had never heard of (Roots, Canna something, etc.) but if anyone could just jot down a few names they know/approve of, that would rock.
Question 1: If I brew 5 gallons of tea, do I need to use all 5 gallons right away? Or can I just let it sit, or leave the airstone/pump going, or what? It seems like it would be hard to anticipate how much tea you're going to need to make (especially when you're new to growing)!
Question 2: I live in SoCal and so my tap water probably isn't the greatest (although I live a block from the ocean, but I don't know if that affects it at all). Can I just bubble the water for 24 hours before adding anything else, or will it still be too poor to make quality teas?
SubQuestion 2: Is there an easy solution like some sort of Pur water filter that I can just attach to my faucet or hose in the backyard to avoid any issues?
Thanks!
I've been using Sunshine Mix #4 in my LC#2 mix. Never used others but I am happy with that. You should be able to find it at a decent hydro store or nursery. Comes in a 3.8 CF bale. I am trying "Roots" soil in the LC#2 mix in the next grow. I can't recommend it yet but I'm betting that there will be no negative results. I'll do maybe 5 out of 25 pots with that soil as a base.
1) The Tea experts all say to use your tea within several hours of brewing. It is not for storage. You'll be like the rest of us, feeding then re-brewing tea on a fairly regular basis.
2) Yeah, bubble it for a period of 24 hours or so. Sometimes I do less but that is the recommendation. I usually just remove my air diffusers from the tea bucket, rinse them off in another bucket then throw them in a 3rd bucket of fresh water and let that water bubble for a day then brew another batch. Your backyard water is the same as your frontyard or in-house water. I'd bubble it, especially since you live near the beach with it's highly chlorinated water.
Someone also mentioned "clorimine" as another product that disturbs the tea brewing cycle. I don't know if your water contains that. You can call your water company and ask them to send you a copy of the most recent lab results (it's the law) and you will see for yourself.
dev0n
Member
FF Happy Frog is worth checking out, and Light Warrior for seedlings.
Your microbes will exhaust their supply of food after a certain period of time, depending on how big your herd is and how much food you start them out with. Generally I don't let a 5-gal tea bubble for more than 36 hours and I don't let it sit after that for more than a couple hours, if that. YMMV.
The chlorine will evaporate if you let it sit, chloramine will not. There are carbon filters you can use to remove these from your water or you can hit the aquarium store and get dechlorination drops, which dismantle the chlorine, chloramine, and sometimes ammonia molecules.
slyman
Member
thanks for the replies guys i will definitely b taking ur advice. obviously its better to use it for more compost but could i just add this stuff to a soil mix? just because if i start some soon i cant really wait for the compost pile. i love this site btw(at least this section haha) everyone is so helpful thanks againThat is definitely a huge plus in starting composting. Assuming you're planning on carrying this through to a complete compost for soil (which might be a bad assumption), I would suggest you build on this by adding to your composter:
Manure (not pet poo!)
Coffee grounds
Biodegradable paper
Tea bags
Potting soil
Veggie and fruit scraps
Plant stalks
Grass clippings - from your lawn not from your weed trim
And I add alfalfa meal just to cheat a little ...
I generally avoid
Pet droppings
Bread or grains
Meat
Grease/oil
Foods high in grease/oil for that matter (read:McDonalds)
Plants with diseases
Seeds of any kind
Don't forget to turn it regularly!
Best of luck whichever route you take ...
SecretGardener
Member
I haven't really even been to any other sections to be honest. Except the introduce yourself and vendor forums hehe.
RE: K-Mag Application Rates
Do NOT follow the amount that I used. Every garden is different and I build my potting soil from the ground up - I have a pretty good handle on what a hi-dose is and is not.
Use the recommend amount that Vonforne uses/suggests. I have since dropped the amount that I use to slightly less than 1 tablespoon (3 teaspoons) for 5 gallons of water. A tad more than 1/2 tsp. per gallon.
Sorry if I mislead anyone. I was experimenting and should not have posted it.
CC
Do NOT follow the amount that I used. Every garden is different and I build my potting soil from the ground up - I have a pretty good handle on what a hi-dose is and is not.
Use the recommend amount that Vonforne uses/suggests. I have since dropped the amount that I use to slightly less than 1 tablespoon (3 teaspoons) for 5 gallons of water. A tad more than 1/2 tsp. per gallon.
Sorry if I mislead anyone. I was experimenting and should not have posted it.
CC
slyman
Member
so all of these organic methods can b applied to vegetables and whatnot right?
and i know someone posted a link to a couple organic gardening sites somewhere and i remember they also said not to mention the herb on there. if that person reads this would u want to post those links again please? thanks
and i know someone posted a link to a couple organic gardening sites somewhere and i remember they also said not to mention the herb on there. if that person reads this would u want to post those links again please? thanks
slyman
It's more a situation of organic gardening and farming methods finally being applied to growing cannabis.
Consider this paradigm for a second: About 4,500 years ago the Chinese had figured out 'cloning' (a more accurate description is 'rooting a cutting' but I'm picking nits) as well as using 'raised beds' which later developed about 4,000 years ago into using biointensive growing methods. This technique was also employed by the Greeks & the Mayans.
It was the Mayans who developed the process of building moats surrounding the raised beds which were filled with fish - the first fish farming operation in the Western Hemisphere.
As things turned out the fish wastes provided food for the soil food web meaning that the fish not only fed the community they were also feeding the produce being grown - especially the holiest of plants - corn.
The French picked-up on the process in the late 18th Century and named it the 'French Intensive' technique - no mention of the Chinese, Greeks or the Mayans. Probably a busy day and all.
In the 1970's an Englishman by the name of Alan Chadwick joined the ancient Chinese methods with some of the interesting twists that the French had developed and dubbed it the Biointensive-French Method.
No mention by Chadwick of the contributions made by the Chinese, Greeks and Mayans either. I thought it was only the French that were rude and arrogant - oh my!
Next up is a guy in California by the name of John Jeavons (Ecology Action) who moved it forward into a sustainable 8-step food-raising method known as "GROW BIOINTENSIVE."
Jeavons broke the pattern and did give credit to the Chinese, Greeks and Mayans in his book - finally someone who wasn't/isn't arrogant. An American - showing the world that once again when it comes to teaching the Frenchies and Limeys a thing or two about being polite, urbane and just generally knowing what 'cool' is and how to exude it - it takes a real American. God bless John Wayne.
So what does all of the drivel have to do with your query? Pretty simple as things turn out.
So we have 4,500 years of history of growing plants closely together to maximize yields. It worked and that is why is spread around the world over the many centuries.
There's nothing shy or reserved when it comes to the hubris in the modern cannabis growing deal. Someone decided that the terms of 'biointensive' or 'French intensive' or worse - Biointensive-French Method just didn't have the 'pop' required to raise the interests of stoners so a new name had to be developed.
Viola!!!! The 'Sea of Green' and from reading the initial writings in the magazines in the late 1980's like/especially 'Sinsemilla Tips' you would have thought that those bright little lads in 'da dam' had re-invented the wheel.
F*cking touching isn't it?
CC
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treefrog
Ah, the history lessons. I love it!
Hi Von,
I asked your advice before about mixing in EWC in my finishing compost (post 2355), I have soaked it twice now with molassas water and it's looking/smelling great!
My question now is- I'm off for vacation for a month and won't be around to turn it and keep it aerated. Should I let it dry and store in the shade? I'm worried about anerobic bacteria building up and ruining my work. I won't be using this until mid-July. Thanks
I asked your advice before about mixing in EWC in my finishing compost (post 2355), I have soaked it twice now with molassas water and it's looking/smelling great!
My question now is- I'm off for vacation for a month and won't be around to turn it and keep it aerated. Should I let it dry and store in the shade? I'm worried about anerobic bacteria building up and ruining my work. I won't be using this until mid-July. Thanks
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vonforne
Soak? or just watered?
And you will be alright with the compost. Just turn it before you go and when you come back. Don´t let it dry out. The microbes will die off and go dormant if it becomes dry. And it should be in a shaded place now.
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slyman
Member
it is haha. thanks
Zendo
Member
oh man, you crack me up..
Whats even more hilarious is when you use general horticulture terms when talking to hydro store guy, hydro store wannabe guy, etc..
You would almost think Cannabis wasn't a plant sometimes..
slyman
Member
so i was looking on google for nurseries and garden stores in my area and i stumbled upon this one http://www.goodearth.org/catalog.cfm/. i thought the lava rock and organic humus looked interesting. does anything else catch anyones eye? i searched lava rock on here and got this thread https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=97859&highlight=volcanic+lava+rock im also wondering if it could be a substitute for perlite but no one gave him a direct answer to that. im thinking about getting it depending on the price and what u guys think. also what do u guys think about the humus, and humus in general? ive seen people using alaskan humus in their mixes, is this the same or similar?
Geoffrey Boycot
Member
When using the LC mix where 10 parts = 1 cu ft (ie 10 x quart pan) what volume of water should be added to get the right moisture levels for the 2 week cook. It seems a pretty important factor that is easily measured by an expert for the benefit of us newbies.
I appreciate you may need to add more during the cook depending on temps/airflow on your batch but 1cu ft of the LC mix has a certain defined capacity for holding water and i was hoping someone could tell me the ideal amount to add at the start.
I appreciate you may need to add more during the cook depending on temps/airflow on your batch but 1cu ft of the LC mix has a certain defined capacity for holding water and i was hoping someone could tell me the ideal amount to add at the start.
