V
vonforne
Wow, I was right.....you are a walking library and No I did not know that. Thanks you very much. I have been dying without my K-Mag over here.
V
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Tutorial Organics for Beginners
- Thread starter BurnOne
- Start date
Wow, I was right.....you are a walking library and No I did not know that. Thanks you very much. I have been dying without my K-Mag over here.
V
Vonforme
Wow! So you've actually used K-Mag/Su-Mag-Po/langbeinite?
Give me some guidelines, please. I talked to a 'soil guy' at Down-To-Earth in Eugene, Oregon and he was hemming and hawing but I finally got a rate of usage from him that was 1-2 tablespoons per gallon of potting soil.
Does that sound correct?
And what about mixing it with water and applying as part of a hydration process? Is it water soluble as described on some web sites?
Thanks for any help. I'm definitely interested.
CC
Wow! So you've actually used K-Mag/Su-Mag-Po/langbeinite?
Give me some guidelines, please. I talked to a 'soil guy' at Down-To-Earth in Eugene, Oregon and he was hemming and hawing but I finally got a rate of usage from him that was 1-2 tablespoons per gallon of potting soil.
Does that sound correct?
And what about mixing it with water and applying as part of a hydration process? Is it water soluble as described on some web sites?
Thanks for any help. I'm definitely interested.
CC
V
vonforne
I never used tat brand GM but I have used Maxi crop for years and I love it. It is not the best but still very effective used as a folair. If you want a great Kelp meal check out CTguy at his website.
http://www.simplici-tea.com/
he also as a great Humic acid and a few other things not to mention the obvious....Compost tea brewers...hence the name.
LOL Welcome back grapeman.
V
V
vonforne
Ok here is how I used the K-Mag. http://www.kmag.com/
I had these Rubbermaid containers I used for water. I think they were the 50 gallon ones. Anyway I added 1 TBS to all containers per gallon. I applied every time I watered. It does dissolve but the K-Mag will take a while and it is ot 100% like they say but close. I always see the little chunks at the bottom of the container. They sell 2 brands. Both look like salt one is just a finer grain than the other. If you contact them they will send out some free samples. Grapeman just received his for the first time. I believe he ordered the Premium brand which if memory serves me it is the finer grain.
Sul-Po-Mag I added 1 cup per cubic foot of soil.
I see they are reaching the commercial market now. When I was in America you could only get it via their website.
HTH
V
here is a shot from my old gallery.
I have used that stuff since 2006 or so
V
vonforne
A lot of companies mix peat with the EWC. You can use it but make sure you increase the EWC volume buy using the amount of peat they say they added on the package.
Example: 30% peat added. So, obviously you would increase the amount by at least 30% but if it was me......I would drive back.
I thought you were a farmer? Make your own. Need some help?
V
Vonforne
Thank you very much for the information. K-Mag (the brand) now has 3 varieties. The one available is the standard which is the larger 'chunks' I'm assuming.
It's less than $19.00 for 50 lbs. at the farm store. It's certainly cheap enough.
Wouldn't this be the (almost) perfect 'cal-mag' ingredient? Just wondering.
Thanks again very much!
CC
Thank you very much for the information. K-Mag (the brand) now has 3 varieties. The one available is the standard which is the larger 'chunks' I'm assuming.
It's less than $19.00 for 50 lbs. at the farm store. It's certainly cheap enough.
Wouldn't this be the (almost) perfect 'cal-mag' ingredient? Just wondering.
Thanks again very much!
CC
V
vonforne
CC, I have posted up the K-Mag link a dozen times if not more. I read the questions describing the mg def. with the LC´s mix but like always I assume people use rock powders like I do.
And yes I KNOW it is a great product K, Mg and S. The sulfur part is very important or at least to me. I think our container plants do not get enough S and the K.Mag is great for that. I used it for my flowering booster. I think I have a picture in my old gallery of some plants that I used it on. Hold on............(von goes digging around in the corner) here we go
i think this is a Stonehedge from 2007
Vonforne
RE: Sulphur
One of the reasons that I do not use straight dolomite lime is based on Steve Solomon's work on the COF concept (Complete Organic Fertilizer) and it's his recommendation that an equal mix of dolomite lime, gypsum (sulphur) and oyster shell powder (readily available calcium) is preferable to straight dolomite.
That may or may not translate over to container growing.
My question is that since I'm using an equal mix of Azomite, soft rock phosophate, glacial rock dust, New Jersey Greensand and limestone, then perhaps I might want to use a less amount than you were using.
Another question about mixing it with water. I understood you to say that you added 1 tablespoon to 1 gallon of water, correct? How long did you find it to take to disolve?
The reason I'm asking about the time it takes to semi-disolve is that I put a tablespoon in a gallon of water about 1 hour ago. Some of the smaller particles have dissolved but it's looking like the larger chunks are pretty much intact. Would warm/hot water be helpful?
Thanks for all of your information.
CC
RE: Sulphur
One of the reasons that I do not use straight dolomite lime is based on Steve Solomon's work on the COF concept (Complete Organic Fertilizer) and it's his recommendation that an equal mix of dolomite lime, gypsum (sulphur) and oyster shell powder (readily available calcium) is preferable to straight dolomite.
That may or may not translate over to container growing.
My question is that since I'm using an equal mix of Azomite, soft rock phosophate, glacial rock dust, New Jersey Greensand and limestone, then perhaps I might want to use a less amount than you were using.
Another question about mixing it with water. I understood you to say that you added 1 tablespoon to 1 gallon of water, correct? How long did you find it to take to disolve?
The reason I'm asking about the time it takes to semi-disolve is that I put a tablespoon in a gallon of water about 1 hour ago. Some of the smaller particles have dissolved but it's looking like the larger chunks are pretty much intact. Would warm/hot water be helpful?
Thanks for all of your information.
CC
Just my 2 cents here. I haven't been able to get my Sul-Po-Mag to completely dissolve in water (BTW this product comes from K-Mag and is re-packaged using the Sul=Po-Mag label just as you pointed out). I've let it sit for several days, stirring whenever I pass by but there is always grains of product left at the bottom. I have just taken to mixing the 1 cup per CF in the soil and using this Aagrand "sulfate of potash with kelp" product
http://www.aggrand.com/kelp.aspx
as a supplement during flower. I love sulfer in the soil, and the plants do too.
K-Mag did just send me a sample of their K-Mag Premium, but I have yet to use it in any manner, water or soil.
I don't have time to farm worms too. LOL.
There is a worm farm close by though. I have avoided using this local EWC in my soil for one simple reason. I live in the desert and the EWC is very fine. But I do know that is very biologically active, as I've seen the lab tests and also used his teas on a larger scale. I get my EWC for my home teas there. Maybe I'll just mix my next batch of soil with this EWC and see how the fineness of the product effects the finished soil product after using it in the LC mix.
grapeman/Vonforne
It took a couple of hours to completely dissolve (sort of) the K-Mag rocks. I have another batch going with an air pump to see if bouncing them around helps any. Still - a couple of hours is no big deal.
Thanks for all the help!
BTW - the fertilizer company, E. B. Stone has the Su-Po-Mag product in a consumer pack (I think it's 5 lbs.) and it is the 'right' version, the organic/magnesia version. That might be an option for people without access to a farm store to buy it in bulk.
CC
It took a couple of hours to completely dissolve (sort of) the K-Mag rocks. I have another batch going with an air pump to see if bouncing them around helps any. Still - a couple of hours is no big deal.
Thanks for all the help!
BTW - the fertilizer company, E. B. Stone has the Su-Po-Mag product in a consumer pack (I think it's 5 lbs.) and it is the 'right' version, the organic/magnesia version. That might be an option for people without access to a farm store to buy it in bulk.
CC
So you dissolved the K-Mag premium? or was it another flavor of K-Mag. The guys at K-Mag did tell me that the premium was more water soluble the the other 2 flavors... but not completely water soluble. You just proved it.
Thanks CC - now when I run out of the Aagrand sulfate of Potash, I'll just switch to the K-Mag. That Sulfate of Potash is cheap though (like 8 bucks a quart plus some kelp thrown in).
grapeman
The bag of K-Mag that I bought is tagged 'Standard' and the other 2 options, according to their web site, is either 'Premium' or 'Granular' which not available in my area.
HTH
CC
Protocol11
Member
A site I found online, with a great deal of info of everything organic.
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/organic/garden/faq/
Some of these don't pertain to cannabis growing, but most do, and the others are just good to know.
Organic Recipes Homemade
Baking Soda Fungicide
Mix 4 teaspoons (about 1 rounded tablespoon) of baking soda and 1 tablespoon of horticultural oil into one gallon of water. Spray lightly on foliage of plants afflicted with black spot, powdery mildew, brown patch and other fungal diseases. Avoid over-using or pouring on the soil. Potassium bicarbonate is a good substitute for baking soda. Citrus oil and molasses can be used instead of horticultural oil.
Compost Tea
Manure compost tea is effective on many pests because of certain microorganisms that exist in it naturally. Here's how to make compost tea at home. Use any container but a plastic bucket is easy for the homeowner. Fill the 5-15 gallon bucket half full of compost and finish filling with water. Let the mix sit for 10-14 days and then dilute and spray on the foliage of any and all plants including fruit trees, perennials, annuals, vegetables and roses, and other plants, especially those that are regularly attacked by insects or fungal pests. It's very effective for example on black spot on roses and early blight on tomatoes. How to dilute the dark compost tea before using depends on the compost used. A rule of thumb is to dilute the leachate down to one part compost liquid to four to ten parts water. It should look like iced tea. Be sure to strain the solids out with old pantyhose, cheese cloth, or row cover material. Add two tablespoons of molasses to each gallon of spray for more power. Add citrus oil for even greater pest killing power.
Cornmeal Juice
Cornmeal Juice is a natural fungal control for use in any kind of sprayer. Make by soaking horticultural cornmeal in water at one cup per gallon of water. Put the cornmeal a nylon stocking bag to hold in the larger particles. The milky juice of the cornmeal will permeate the water and this mix should be sprayed without further diluting. Cornmeal Juice can be mixed with compost tea, Garrett Juice or any other natural foliar feeding spray.
Garlic Pepper Tea Insect Repellent
In a blender with water, liquefy two bulbs of garlic and two cayenne or habanero peppers. Strain away the solids. Pour the garlic-pepper juice into a one gallon container. Fill the remaining volume with water to make one gallon of concentrate. Shake well before using and add 1/4 cup of the concentrate to each gallon of water in the sprayer. To make garlic tea, simply omit the pepper and add another bulb of garlic. For additional power, add one tablespoon of seaweed and molasses to each gallon. Always use plastic containers with loose fitting lids for storage.
Garrett Juice
Garrett Juice evolved over a period of years as I would tell readers and callers how to make an effective foliar feeding mix. The mix has always had compost, tea, molasses and seaweed, but the other ingredients have varied. Through trial and error, we came to the basic mix we use today. As always, my formulas are for making the mix at home, but there are commercial products on the market for convenience.
My recommended basic formula is available commercially under the Garden-Ville and Nature's Guide labels. Garrett Juice Plus from Soil Mender is the newest product and contains liquid fish. It comes in a concentrate and ready to use mix.
To make your own, here are the instructions:
Mix the following in a gallon of water.
Garrett Juice (ready to spray):
1 cup compost tea
1 ounce molasses
1 ounce natural apple cider vinegar
1 ounce liquid seaweed
For Garrett Juice Plus and more fertilizer value add:
1- 2 ounces of liquid fish (fish hydrolysate) per gallon of spray.
For disease and insect control add:
¼ cup garlic tea or
¼ cup garlic/pepper tea
or 1 - 2 ounce of orange oil
For homemade fire ant killer add: 2 ounces of orange oil per gallon of Garrett Juice
Note 1: To avoid burning plant foliage, the ready-to-use solution should not have more than 2 ounces of orange oil per gallon of spray.
Note 2: We now know why the mix works so well, not only on the foliage, but also in the soil. The ingredients are a well balanced blend of nutrients and food for both beneficial fungi and bacteria.
Garrett Juice Concentrate: Mix the following: 1 gallon of compost tea or liquid humate, 1 pint liquid seaweed, 1 pint apple cider vinegar, and 1 pint molasses. To make Garrett Juice Plus add 1 pint fish hydrolysate. Use 1½ cups per gallon of water for the spray.
Potting Soil
Potting soil – as opposed to native soil, loam, dirt or landscaper’s soil – is what should be used in pots - no matter what the crop. Potting soil should be light weight.
I do not recommend peat moss potting soils. Peat moss is anti-microbial. Microbes don’t grow well in it. That’s just the opposite of what we want. Peat moss is excellent for storing bulbs or shipping food or other perishable material that would otherwise decay. Potting soil should not be sterile as some recommend, but alive and dynamic. It should be light, loose, well aerated, fertile, full of microorganisms and have the ability to stimulate quick and sustained growth.
Interior plants and outdoor potted plants should be planted in a well-drained, organic potting soil like I recommend. My favorite basic ingredients are compost, coconut fiber and expanded shale.
My latest recommended formula is as follows:
30% Compost
30% Coconut Fiber
15% Decomposed granite
15% Expanded Shale
5% Alfalfa meal
4% Lava sand
1% Greensand
Beneficial microbes (bacteria and fungi)
Soil Mender makes my specific formula, but there are other "non-peat moss" potting soils on the market. Two others that we know are Ladybug and Nature's Guide Bagman's Blend.
Some of the best fertilizers for interior plants include earthworm castings, kelp meal and coffee grounds. They are mild and odor free. Garrett Juice is also an excellent fertilizer for plants in containers.
Tree Trunk Goop
Mix 1/3 of each in water and paint on trunks: diatomaceous earth, soft rock phosphate and manure compost. Paint onto cuts, borer holes or other injuries on trunks or limbs. Reapply if washed off by rain or irrigation.
Potassium bicarbonate Fungicide
Mix 4 teaspoons (about 1 rounded tablespoon) of potassium bicarbonate into one gallon of water. Spray lightly on foliage of plants afflicted with black spot, powdery mildew, brown patch and other fungal diseases. Potassium bicarbonate is a good substitute for baking soda. There are commercial EPA registered as well as generic products available.
Making Compost
A compost pile can be started in sun or shade at any time of the year. Good ingredients include leaves, hay, grass clippings, tree trimmings, food scraps, bark, sawdust, rice hulls, weeds, nut hulls and animal manure. Mix the ingredients together in a container of wood, hay bales, hog wire, concrete blocks or simply pile the material on the ground. The best mixture is 75-80% vegetative matter and 20-25% animal waste, although any mix will compost. The ingredients should be a mix of coarse and fine-textured material. Avoid having all the pieces of material the same size since the variety of sizes will help air to move through the pile. Oxygen is a critical ingredient. Turn the pile at least once a month; more often speeds up the process. Keep the pile moist, roughly the moisture of a squeezed-out sponge, to help the living microorganisms thrive and work their magic. Compost is ready to use when the ingredients are no longer identifiable. The color will be dark brown, the texture soft and crumbly and the aroma that of a forest floor. Use compost in all bed preparation and as a high quality mulch around annuals and perennials.
Toenail Fungus Treatment
What has been reported to me by a listener is to put ½” of cornmeal in a flat pan that’s large enough to get your feet in. Add enough warm water to cover the feet and soak over an hour. The Soil Mender cornmeal product might be the best choice because of its fine texture. Soak feet for over an hour. More than one treatment may be needed.
Vinegar Fungicide
Mix 3 tablespoons of natural apple cider vinegar in one gallon of water. Spray during the cool part of the day for black spot on roses and other fungal diseases. Adding molasses at 1 tablespoon per gallon will again help.
Vinegar - The Organic Herbicide
The best choice for herbicide use is 10% white vinegar made from grain alcohol. It should be used full strength. I've mentioned 20% in the past but it is stronger than needed and too expensive. Avoid products that are made from 99% glacial acetic acid. This material is a petroleum derivative. Natural vinegars such those made from fermenting apples have little herbicidal value. They are used in irrigation water and as an ingredient in Garrett Juice.
Herbicide Formula:
1 gallon of 10% vinegar
Add 1 ounce orange oil or d-limonene
Add 1 tablespoon molasses
1 teaspoon liquid soap or other surfactant (I use Bio Wash)
Do not add water
Shake well before each spraying and spot spray weeds. Keep the spray off desirable plants. This spray will injure any plants it touches. This natural spray works best on warm to hot days.
Vinegar sprayed the bases of trees and other woody plants will not hurt the plant at all. This technique was first learned about by spraying the suckers and weeds growing around the bases of grapevines. For best results, use full strength 10% (100 grain) vinegar with 1 oz orange and 1 teaspoon liquid soap per gallon. Avoid vinegar product made from acetic acid.
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/organic/garden/faq/
Some of these don't pertain to cannabis growing, but most do, and the others are just good to know.
Organic Recipes Homemade
Baking Soda Fungicide
Mix 4 teaspoons (about 1 rounded tablespoon) of baking soda and 1 tablespoon of horticultural oil into one gallon of water. Spray lightly on foliage of plants afflicted with black spot, powdery mildew, brown patch and other fungal diseases. Avoid over-using or pouring on the soil. Potassium bicarbonate is a good substitute for baking soda. Citrus oil and molasses can be used instead of horticultural oil.
Compost Tea
Manure compost tea is effective on many pests because of certain microorganisms that exist in it naturally. Here's how to make compost tea at home. Use any container but a plastic bucket is easy for the homeowner. Fill the 5-15 gallon bucket half full of compost and finish filling with water. Let the mix sit for 10-14 days and then dilute and spray on the foliage of any and all plants including fruit trees, perennials, annuals, vegetables and roses, and other plants, especially those that are regularly attacked by insects or fungal pests. It's very effective for example on black spot on roses and early blight on tomatoes. How to dilute the dark compost tea before using depends on the compost used. A rule of thumb is to dilute the leachate down to one part compost liquid to four to ten parts water. It should look like iced tea. Be sure to strain the solids out with old pantyhose, cheese cloth, or row cover material. Add two tablespoons of molasses to each gallon of spray for more power. Add citrus oil for even greater pest killing power.
Cornmeal Juice
Cornmeal Juice is a natural fungal control for use in any kind of sprayer. Make by soaking horticultural cornmeal in water at one cup per gallon of water. Put the cornmeal a nylon stocking bag to hold in the larger particles. The milky juice of the cornmeal will permeate the water and this mix should be sprayed without further diluting. Cornmeal Juice can be mixed with compost tea, Garrett Juice or any other natural foliar feeding spray.
Garlic Pepper Tea Insect Repellent
In a blender with water, liquefy two bulbs of garlic and two cayenne or habanero peppers. Strain away the solids. Pour the garlic-pepper juice into a one gallon container. Fill the remaining volume with water to make one gallon of concentrate. Shake well before using and add 1/4 cup of the concentrate to each gallon of water in the sprayer. To make garlic tea, simply omit the pepper and add another bulb of garlic. For additional power, add one tablespoon of seaweed and molasses to each gallon. Always use plastic containers with loose fitting lids for storage.
Garrett Juice
Garrett Juice evolved over a period of years as I would tell readers and callers how to make an effective foliar feeding mix. The mix has always had compost, tea, molasses and seaweed, but the other ingredients have varied. Through trial and error, we came to the basic mix we use today. As always, my formulas are for making the mix at home, but there are commercial products on the market for convenience.
My recommended basic formula is available commercially under the Garden-Ville and Nature's Guide labels. Garrett Juice Plus from Soil Mender is the newest product and contains liquid fish. It comes in a concentrate and ready to use mix.
To make your own, here are the instructions:
Mix the following in a gallon of water.
Garrett Juice (ready to spray):
1 cup compost tea
1 ounce molasses
1 ounce natural apple cider vinegar
1 ounce liquid seaweed
For Garrett Juice Plus and more fertilizer value add:
1- 2 ounces of liquid fish (fish hydrolysate) per gallon of spray.
For disease and insect control add:
¼ cup garlic tea or
¼ cup garlic/pepper tea
or 1 - 2 ounce of orange oil
For homemade fire ant killer add: 2 ounces of orange oil per gallon of Garrett Juice
Note 1: To avoid burning plant foliage, the ready-to-use solution should not have more than 2 ounces of orange oil per gallon of spray.
Note 2: We now know why the mix works so well, not only on the foliage, but also in the soil. The ingredients are a well balanced blend of nutrients and food for both beneficial fungi and bacteria.
Garrett Juice Concentrate: Mix the following: 1 gallon of compost tea or liquid humate, 1 pint liquid seaweed, 1 pint apple cider vinegar, and 1 pint molasses. To make Garrett Juice Plus add 1 pint fish hydrolysate. Use 1½ cups per gallon of water for the spray.
Potting Soil
Potting soil – as opposed to native soil, loam, dirt or landscaper’s soil – is what should be used in pots - no matter what the crop. Potting soil should be light weight.
I do not recommend peat moss potting soils. Peat moss is anti-microbial. Microbes don’t grow well in it. That’s just the opposite of what we want. Peat moss is excellent for storing bulbs or shipping food or other perishable material that would otherwise decay. Potting soil should not be sterile as some recommend, but alive and dynamic. It should be light, loose, well aerated, fertile, full of microorganisms and have the ability to stimulate quick and sustained growth.
Interior plants and outdoor potted plants should be planted in a well-drained, organic potting soil like I recommend. My favorite basic ingredients are compost, coconut fiber and expanded shale.
My latest recommended formula is as follows:
30% Compost
30% Coconut Fiber
15% Decomposed granite
15% Expanded Shale
5% Alfalfa meal
4% Lava sand
1% Greensand
Beneficial microbes (bacteria and fungi)
Soil Mender makes my specific formula, but there are other "non-peat moss" potting soils on the market. Two others that we know are Ladybug and Nature's Guide Bagman's Blend.
Some of the best fertilizers for interior plants include earthworm castings, kelp meal and coffee grounds. They are mild and odor free. Garrett Juice is also an excellent fertilizer for plants in containers.
Tree Trunk Goop
Mix 1/3 of each in water and paint on trunks: diatomaceous earth, soft rock phosphate and manure compost. Paint onto cuts, borer holes or other injuries on trunks or limbs. Reapply if washed off by rain or irrigation.
Potassium bicarbonate Fungicide
Mix 4 teaspoons (about 1 rounded tablespoon) of potassium bicarbonate into one gallon of water. Spray lightly on foliage of plants afflicted with black spot, powdery mildew, brown patch and other fungal diseases. Potassium bicarbonate is a good substitute for baking soda. There are commercial EPA registered as well as generic products available.
Making Compost
A compost pile can be started in sun or shade at any time of the year. Good ingredients include leaves, hay, grass clippings, tree trimmings, food scraps, bark, sawdust, rice hulls, weeds, nut hulls and animal manure. Mix the ingredients together in a container of wood, hay bales, hog wire, concrete blocks or simply pile the material on the ground. The best mixture is 75-80% vegetative matter and 20-25% animal waste, although any mix will compost. The ingredients should be a mix of coarse and fine-textured material. Avoid having all the pieces of material the same size since the variety of sizes will help air to move through the pile. Oxygen is a critical ingredient. Turn the pile at least once a month; more often speeds up the process. Keep the pile moist, roughly the moisture of a squeezed-out sponge, to help the living microorganisms thrive and work their magic. Compost is ready to use when the ingredients are no longer identifiable. The color will be dark brown, the texture soft and crumbly and the aroma that of a forest floor. Use compost in all bed preparation and as a high quality mulch around annuals and perennials.
Toenail Fungus Treatment
What has been reported to me by a listener is to put ½” of cornmeal in a flat pan that’s large enough to get your feet in. Add enough warm water to cover the feet and soak over an hour. The Soil Mender cornmeal product might be the best choice because of its fine texture. Soak feet for over an hour. More than one treatment may be needed.
Vinegar Fungicide
Mix 3 tablespoons of natural apple cider vinegar in one gallon of water. Spray during the cool part of the day for black spot on roses and other fungal diseases. Adding molasses at 1 tablespoon per gallon will again help.
Vinegar - The Organic Herbicide
The best choice for herbicide use is 10% white vinegar made from grain alcohol. It should be used full strength. I've mentioned 20% in the past but it is stronger than needed and too expensive. Avoid products that are made from 99% glacial acetic acid. This material is a petroleum derivative. Natural vinegars such those made from fermenting apples have little herbicidal value. They are used in irrigation water and as an ingredient in Garrett Juice.
Herbicide Formula:
1 gallon of 10% vinegar
Add 1 ounce orange oil or d-limonene
Add 1 tablespoon molasses
1 teaspoon liquid soap or other surfactant (I use Bio Wash)
Do not add water
Shake well before each spraying and spot spray weeds. Keep the spray off desirable plants. This spray will injure any plants it touches. This natural spray works best on warm to hot days.
Vinegar sprayed the bases of trees and other woody plants will not hurt the plant at all. This technique was first learned about by spraying the suckers and weeds growing around the bases of grapevines. For best results, use full strength 10% (100 grain) vinegar with 1 oz orange and 1 teaspoon liquid soap per gallon. Avoid vinegar product made from acetic acid.
so if im using LC's #1 with recipe #1 (dry ferts) i would add sul-po-mag at 1 cup per cubic foot of soil or 2 TBS per gallon?
Is that enough to take care of mg issues, or do you have to add azomite, soft rock phosphate, and glacial rock dust as well as the sul-po-mag?
and i know CC said that the E.B Stone version of sul-po-mag is the 'right' version, but does anyone know about the rabbit hill farm brand, i saw it on amazon and that seems the easiest right now as i can't find E.B version online.
Is that enough to take care of mg issues, or do you have to add azomite, soft rock phosphate, and glacial rock dust as well as the sul-po-mag?
and i know CC said that the E.B Stone version of sul-po-mag is the 'right' version, but does anyone know about the rabbit hill farm brand, i saw it on amazon and that seems the easiest right now as i can't find E.B version online.
I talked to the K-Mag folks 3 x on the phone. There are not too many deposits of this stuff around the planet. anyway they tell me that they sell tons of this product to 3rd party sellers or other chemical companies that use the K-Mag mined product in their product. Diamond K is one of those companies that uses K-Mag's langbeinite. So, if you can't get the name brands discussed above, it still probably comes from the same place and is the same product.
CC. I just remembered that the guys at K=Mag told me that if I wanted a 100% soluble product, that "Diamond K" makes a super fine version of the product (further milling I suspect) that K-Mag sells to them. It's on diamond K's website.
Here's the most water soluble version of this product available according to the K=Mag folks
V
vonforne
I would CC. I had a hard time finding rock powders in Florida so I used K-mag, Sul-Po-Mag, and a product called Rich Earth but no Rock powders. I know that the Urgesteinmehl and the Gestein Mehl both contain S but in lower amounts. But they do carry a wide variety of othe minerals. Most important Mg.
I never really timed it. I dd put it in warm water but still had small particles left over. Even after letting it sit in the tubs it still had small amounts that remained. I just went ahead and watered them in. Not very scientific I know but it worked.
And I am glad you stopped i. These guys need some new information this far into the thread like this.
Good job bringing it.
V
T
treefrog
Hey CC ~ I hope you don't mind me asking a couple questions
I think that I'd read somewhere you mix up equal amounts of the powders mentioned above. Is that true?
Also, for us little container gardeners, how much of your powder mixture do you, or would you add to one gallon of fresh soil-less medium, as well as a recycled medium?
Thanks for your presence here, oh Jedi of organic info.. sincerely.
yourcorpse
It took be a bit to find an answer to your question - Rabbit Hill brand is the right 'version' of this product, i.e. the magnesia product
You're good to go.
HTH
CC
