Sick plant in 5th week of Flowing (NPP) Help!!!

[xxoshz25xx]

Hey all,

I haven't posted here in at least a year or two but I am having a little problem with my New Purple Power. I have a 3x3 room, "my closet", and the temps are ideal in the low 70's. I just watered them 3 days ago with 3 tablespoons of Molasses and yesterday my ladies showed me this problem.

I think it's over watering/over fertilizer but unsure. Can someone chip in here and give me there insight. I am using Cornucopia Plus Formula X which is a great bloom booster. I

Oshz!!!

 

[Kcar]

Hard to say with the HPS light on, but they seem a bit clawed, which usually
means too much nitrogen during flowering.

 

[xxoshz25xx]

a few more pics

 

[Snype]

Please fill out the appropriate form and you will get an answer. I'll never understand how people think any one of us can figure anything out with no info.

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

if you fill out the form in the sticky, you'll probably get the answer you need. it might also help to take pics with the hps lamp turned off.

Snype beat me to it.

 

[xxoshz25xx]

Ive been on this site for over 4 years. I know my way around it pretty good. I have searched this problem for more then a hr. I told you what the temps were, when i fed them last, and what nutes I was using. Put the joint down, all i am looking for is a quick answer.

 

[Snype]

Ive been on this site for over 4 years. I know my way around it pretty good. I have searched this problem for more then a hr. I told you what the temps were, when i fed them last, and what nutes I was using. Put the joint down, all i am looking for is a quick answer.

If you say so. Lol! I'll never understand people. Yo I just ate a steak, can you tell me if it was hot or cold when I ate it or how it was cooked? I mean I told you it was a steak so you have all the info. I'll even give you a pic if you want.

 

[xxoshz25xx]

...deleted...

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

Ive been on this site for over 4 years. I know my way around it pretty good. I have searched this problem for more then a hr. I told you what the temps were, when i fed them last, and what nutes I was using. Put the joint down, all i am looking for is a quick answer.

Put the nutes down, you're overfeeding. If you want a better answer that takes pH and or water quality into account, filling out the form would make it quicker for the peeps willing to help out, thus helping you. The answer is only as quick as the info you're willing to provide.

 

[Snype]

yep your a tool. apparently, this site has a whole bunch of 20 year olds on it. ill have better luck going to lowes and getting the answer.

Been growing since 93 son.

Listen to DiscoBiscuit, you might learn something. You are still lacking info. We are not trying to be dicks. People are here because they want to help.

 

[xxoshz25xx]

Okay this is getting out of hand.

I have searched the Sticky's without any real success. If any of you have some knowledge of this sort that would be grateful. Thanks.

 

[xxoshz25xx]

Been growing since 93 son.

I'm sorry if I got off to a bad start with anyone. Yeah, I have been growing since the mid 90's.

I hate it when my garden gets upset with me lol drives me nuts.

 

[Guywithoutajeep]

I honestly would like you to fill out the form so I can make a proper diagnosis. Thanks buddy, just trying to help.

 

[OrganicMonkey]

It would help if a PPM/EC was given and what line of nutrients. I'd guess at this point that perhaps you are also giving to much molasses, that can cause a toxic situation with the bacteria. Does the soil smell a bit rotten? Bacteria are what break down your organic nutrients to become ions that penetrate cell walls.

It's amazing what cutting down on your mixing with your water can do for your plants, ever other time

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

We all hate problems. IMO, it would be even worse to recommend a quick fix when your info is so limited. One sure fire way to tell problems is condition and color. It's easy to see clawing and assume too much nutes but the yellow lamp disguises the possibility it's primarily too much nitrogen.

Listing your nutes is great but also listing the primary ingredients (example 10-10-10) tells what the plant is getting regardless whether your helper has personal experience with your specific brand. Also, how often you feed, whether you plain water between feedings, etc.

That's why the little form is so handy for helping other growers out. It only takes you a couple or 3 minutes to fill it out and even less for everybody else to read it. Give it a try, it'll help ya out. At least don't get short with those willing to help you.

 

[compost]

Mine lookked a little like that and I had soil bugs
could be a problem if you are or aren't using RO water
To much Nitogren in flowering,
ph problems
salinity lock out
to much hormones
to much humidity or 2 low of humidity

The reason everyone wants to know Alot more information is that a problem you having could be lets say overwatering. Someone doesn't have all the information and says your not watering them enough. You proceed to add more water and do more damage.

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=164191

thats a link to my thread I have some of those same leaf issues whichI believe to be to much N and not enough K with a little bit of soil bug problems.

 

[OrganicMonkey]

Never heard of anything other than N toxicity causing clawing, of which case you don't need to feed the micro heard....having those working a lot just makes your toxic nutrients more available. What was once a slower at uptake, is super driven with a rampant bacteria population.

 

[Snype]

I still want to know if my steak was hot or cold when I ate it and how cooked it was!

 

[cyberwax]

The leaf clawing problem was more difficult to solve. While we suspected overwatering as the cause, our friends at Hydrodynamics told us that overwatering just doesn't happen with the Easy2Grow pots. These systems are designed to provide nutrient solution to the plants in the amount that they are able to consume – not more and not less (so long as there is solution in your reservoir). If this was true, then something else had to be causing or contributing to leaf clawing.

We needed more data, and fast. Against our own general advice, we had set up our garden room without any environmental monitoring or control equipment. That sort of thing happens when you're starting a new business. Gardens always suffer when their gardener doesn't pay enough attention, and ours was no exception.

We began monitoring temperature and humidity – the bare minimum – with an inexpensive temperature and humidity gauge. Then, we hoped, we would be able to make decisions about changes to the garden with at least these few facts in hand.



Heat's the Culprit,

Air Cooling Helps

Daytime temperatures inside the HomeBox turned out to be in mid- to upper 80's Farenheit, which was significantly hotter than the rest of the garden room even though we were using a large oscillating fan to drive the heat from our light away from the plants. Our new hypothesis was that the leaf clawing was a response to excess heat. Usually, plants that are too hot or too close to the light point their leaves up to reduce their exposure. The tomatoes appeared to be clawing under for the same reason, a response that was new to us.

Two lessons learned: Garden temps can't be accurately guessed, and your plants don't always do what you expect them to.

We hung a 4-inch centrifugal fan just outside the HomeBox, ducted it to our reflector, and exhausted the heat from the light up into our attic. Temperatures in HomeBox quickly dropped into the upper 70's. The leaves started to uncurl after three days.

Leaf curl/cupping & leaf margin rolling-signs of Plant Moisture Stress


Quite often I hear groans from folks having leaf problems -> “Help, my leaves are cupping and the leaf edges are turning brown!”, or, “My plant's leaf tips are curling down and turning black ....what's wrong?” Unless insect damage has occurred or the plant is suffering from a severe case of calcium deficiency, the plant is trying to tell you that it is water stressed. It's hard to tell *exactly* what the culprit is, and unfortunately the “solution” the grower chooses many times is not the right one. A mis-diagnosis only serves to make matters worse by promoting further decline. I’ll try to cover some of the more common causes that can induce these common symptoms and try to offer a few simple solutions. The ultimate and correct solution is in the hands of the grower.

1. Over-fertilizing - the most common cause of leaf cupping aka leaf margin rolling, leaf margin burn, and leaf tip curl/burn is the overzealous use of too much plant food in relationship to factors such as plant vigor and rate of growth. The first unit of a plant to show moisture stress is the leaf at its margins and/or tips, reflected by margin rolling (cupping) or burning. A hard, crispy feel to the leaf frequently occurs as well, as opposed to a soft and cool feel of a happy leaf. When you have a high concentration of salts in solution (in the root medium) compared to the salinity levels found in the plant’s tissue, water is actually drawn out of the plant across the root gradient in order to fix the ppm imbalance. IOW, this is a natural, osmotic response that serves to equalize salinity levels on both sides of the root’s epidermal gradient. Back off on the amount and/or frequency of plant food. Too much plant food can also burn the roots, especially the sensitive root tips, which then creates another set of problems. Note - as soil dries, the concentration of the remaining salts rises further exacerbating the problem.

2. High Heat - the plant is losing water via it’s leaves faster than what can be replaced by the root system. The leaf responds by leaf margin cupping or rolling up or down (most times up) in order to conserve moisture. A good example is reflected by the appearance of broad-bladed turf grass on a hot summer day, high noon, with low soil moisture levels - the leaf blade will roll upward/inward with the grass taking on a dull, greyish-green appearance. Upon sunrise when moisture levels have returned to normal, the leaf blade will be flat. Lower the heat and concentrate on developing a large, robust root system by practicing sound plant culture. An efficient and effective root system will go a long way to prevent heat induced leaf dessication and leaf margin curling. One short episode of high heat is enough to permanently disable or destroy leaf tissue and cause a general decline in the leaves affected, which often occurs to leaves found at the top of the plant. The damaged leaf (usually) does not fully recover, no matter what you do. Bummer in the summer. One can only look to new growth for indications that the problem has been corrected.

3. High Light - yes, it’s true, you can give our faves too much light. Cannabis does not receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, dust, twilight periods in the morning and late afternoon, and light intensity changes caused by a change in the seasons. Too much light mainly serves to bleach out and destroy chlorophyll as opposed to causing leaf cupping, but it often goes hand-in-hand with high heat for indoor growers. Again, back off on the light and concentrate on developing/maintaining an efficient and robust root system.

4. Overwatering - for those doing soil, this practice only serves to weaken the root system by depriving the roots of proper gas exchange. IOW, the roots are not getting enough oxygen which creates an anerobic condition inducing root rot and root decline with the end result showing up as leaf stress, stunted growth, and in severe cases, death. <gasp!> Overwatering creates a perfect environment for damp-off disease, at, or below the soil line. Alot of times folks think the plant is not getting enough plant food (which it can't under such adverse conditions), they add more nutes for a "curative", and just add insult to injury.

5. Underwatering - not only is the plant now stressed due to a low supply of adequate moisture, but carbohydrate production has been greatly compromised (screwed up). Step up the watering frequency, and if need be, organic growers may need to water from the bottom up until moisture levels reach a norm throughout the medium. If the pot feels light to the lift - it’s time to water. Don’t wait until the soil pulls away from the sides of the pot or leaves droop before you water. And of course, leach once in a while to get rid of excess salts.

All of the above issues relate to a plant's internal cell turgor or cell water pressure. If water pressure within the plant's stem and leaf cells are positive, the plant will look strong and stocky with flat leaves that are cool to the touch due to good transpiration from the leaf surface. By the same token, if the water pressure is not up to par, whereby water is being extracted from the plant and not replenished like it should be.... the leaves and/or stems will droop.

But i agree, use the bloody form! or you'll just end up with info and no direct route of fix.

 

[compost]

Well im quilty of # 3 gonna go move the lights up some and tilt them away a bit lol.