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Framing/Insulation Basics

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ocean99

I did framing for 2 years back when construction was booming in Cali. I mostly did a bunch of unskilled labor, but I did learn how to sink nails pretty much, so I'm sure with a little guidance I could figure out how to build a wall on my own. I'll be needing to frame/insulate one wall and was thinking about using an old refrigerator as a secret door entrance and was wondering if someone could direct me to like a site with framing basics. I just need to know how far apart to space the wood to be efficient and some guidance on how to shear/insulate/drywall. There's gotta be a cheap book I can buy or something.

Thanks.
 
steppinRazor

steppinRazor

cant stop wont stop
Veteran
i did a little framing myself - its been sometime but space your 2x4s every 16 inches thats how most walls are designed. i i'm kind glad you started this thread cuz im planning on building a similar project for a friend - and i could use a refresh
 
messn'n'gommin'

messn'n'gommin'

ember
Veteran
Just a simple wall with no outlets would be fairly easy to do and a how-to site might fill your needs without having to buy the book, although a book has reference value. A library also comes quickly to mind.

After that, most home improvement places sell a variety of books on home construction projects.
 
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PharmaCan

Active member
Veteran
Lowe's and Home dePot both have good books on basic framing. Find the cheapest one you can - you're not building a rocket ship.

There are a few tricks of the trade though...

Are you going to build the wall on the floor then tilt it up or do you plan to build it in place? If you plan to build it in place, I'll tell you the easy way to frame it that you won't find in a book. If you plan to build it on the floor, I'll tell you how to avoid getting the wall 98% upright and discovering it won't go any further.

There's other things you can do to make the wall odor-tight and such. But first things first.

PC
 
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MJMAVEN

Member
PharmaCan said:
There are a few tricks of the trade though...

If you plan to build it in place, I'll tell you the easy way to frame it that you won't find in a book. If you plan to build it on the floor, I'll tell you how to avoid getting the wall 98% upright and discovering it won't go any further.

There's other things you can do to make the wall odor-tight and such.
Click to expand...

I'm looking to build a room inside a garage, any tips on that? Odor tight info would be much appreciated.
 
Tropic

Tropic

Member
PharmaCan said:
Lowe's and Home dePot both have good books on basic framing. Find the cheapest one you can - you're not building a rocket ship.

There are a few tricks of the trade though...

Are you going to build the wall on the floor then tilt it up or do you plan to build it in place? If you plan to build it in place, I'll tell you the easy way to frame it that you won't find in a book. If you plan to build it on the floor, I'll tell you how to avoid getting the wall 98% upright and discovering it won't go any further.

There's other things you can do to make the wall odor-tight and such. But first things first.

PC
Click to expand...

Looking forward to your input. I am not building a wall but that info will sure prove useful for other times and/or other people.
 
NiteTiger

NiteTiger

Tiger, Tiger, burning bright...
Veteran
Indeed!

Looks like this could turn into a very interesting thread!

Give it to us Pharma!
 
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nachohippie

Member
im going tobuild a room in a basement it is allready framed with 2x4 but i want to use r 30 insulation and panda film on both sides makeing i pillow with the insulation tacked to furring strips from the 2x4 wall will this work or do the one side need no plastic??
 
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PharmaCan

Active member
Veteran
Seems like a lot of people are interested in carpentry. I wasn't planning on typing a framing guide, just answering specific questions.

MJMAVEN said:
I'm looking to build a room inside a garage, any tips on that? Odor tight info would be much appreciated.
Click to expand...

Do you plan to drywall the walls?

nachohippie said:
im going tobuild a room in a basement it is allready framed with 2x4 but i want to use r 30 insulation and panda film on both sides makeing i pillow with the insulation tacked to furring strips from the 2x4 wall will this work or do the one side need no plastic??
Click to expand...

Here's your problem, R-30 insulation is made for 2x6 walls framed 24" o/c, not 2x4 walls framed 16" o/c. To put R30 in your walls you would not only have to cut each piece of insulation the long way - a real pita if you've never done it - but you would also have to compress the insulation to make it fit (wall-thickness wise). When you compress insulation you push the air out of it, thereby significantly reducing its insulating ability and its R value. You're better off using the proper insulation for the space you have. Once you've insulated, both sides of the wall have to be covered. Insulation is not made to be exposed.

PC
 
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ocean99

Well dude that may not have been your plan, writing a guide that is, but it would surely be appreciated :D

16 inches apart sounds right, that's really all I needed to know lol. I'll pick up one of them cheap books and post a step by step here when I get around to constructing this bitch, until then post any useful knowledge here!

Thanks
 
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PharmaCan

Active member
Veteran
ocean99 said:
Well dude that may not have been your plan, writing a guide that is, but it would surely be appreciated :D

16 inches apart sounds right, that's really all I needed to know lol. I'll pick up one of them cheap books and post a step by step here when I get around to constructing this bitch, until then post any useful knowledge here!

Thanks
Click to expand...

They're not 16" apart, they are 16" on center - makes them 14 1/2" apart.

PC
 
AOD2012

AOD2012

I have the key, now i need to find the lock..
Veteran
i built a 2x4 wall 24" on center. i used diagonal bracing,to give it a little bit of lateral support, but once i sheetrocked, it was not going anywhere. a benefit of spacing your studs 24" on center is that there are less thermal bridges. each stud you put is a hole in the insulation that lets the heat or cold transfer. if the walls arent supporting anything i would go with 24" on center so you can get that much more insulation between there.
 
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PharmaCan

Active member
Veteran
NiteTiger said:
I want the tips on keeping the tilt up nice and smooth! :D
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If your ceiling joists are running perpendicular to the new wall:

Measure the distance from your ceiling to the floor, just for fun we'll say it's 8" (96").

Take three 2x4's, stack them flat on top of each other and measure the thickness of the 2x4's. (about 4 1/- 4 7/8").

Subtract the thickness from the height: 96" - 4 1/2" = 93 1/2". That is the length you want to cut your studs.

Frame your wall on the floor using single plates top and bottom. Take your third plate and attach that to the ceiling joists exactly where you want the wall to be. Move the wall so that when it is vertical it is a few inches away from where it will ultimately be installed. Once the wail is vertical you can then slide it under the top plate that is nailed to the ceiling and nail it in place.

If the ceiling joists run parallel to the wall, take some 1/2" or thicker plywood and cut it into 20" x 8' pieces. Attach that plywood to your ceiling joists then do your measurements from the floor to the new plywood and proceed as above.

AOD2012 said:
i built a 2x4 wall 24" on center. i used diagonal bracing,to give it a little bit of lateral support, but once i sheetrocked, it was not going anywhere. a benefit of spacing your studs 24" on center is that there are less thermal bridges. each stud you put is a hole in the insulation that lets the heat or cold transfer. if the walls arent supporting anything i would go with 24" on center so you can get that much more insulation between there.
Click to expand...

This is true from a structural standpoint, but it's not the most effective means of insulating because the insulation will get compressed inside the wall, thereby diminishing its insulating ability. If insulation is a big factor in your build and you want to do this, you're better off to use 2x6's for your framing.

PC
 
AOD2012

AOD2012

I have the key, now i need to find the lock..
Veteran
yea i didnt put like r30 or anything into there, i used insulation that was meant for 2x4 studs, i think it was r13 or something like that. im well aware of the fact that if you compress the insulation your doing yourself more a disservice then anything. got me a new asshole one day i worked on my first new construction and my boss saw me straight up just stuffing as much insulation as i possibly could into spots. not a fun day.
 
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MJMAVEN

Member
PharmaCan said:
Do you plan to drywall the walls?
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Yeah, that would probably be best. I would like to build a CEA sealed room in a garage. One of the existing walls is drywalled, but the other is not. Ceiling is not drywalled and there is a lot of space above the ceiling joists (single story house). Floor is epoxy finished. What's the best (first priority) and easiest (because I have zero construction experience) way to accomplish this?
 
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dtfsux

Member
I have built 3 grow rooms of various sizes.

Framing is easy, its not rocket science, its not going to get inspected, and it isnt going to hold up a house. Obviously you want it solid, and strong though.

You really dont need drywall at all.

First room I built was in a basement. I only needed to build one wall and a door. I had to work around existing ac ducts etc and just built around it. I insulated most of it. Part of the 2 walls were the concrete foundation of the house. After insulating what I could, I panda filmed it to seal it. Worked great for almost 2 years.

2nd set of rooms were built from scratch and full blown drywalled, framed, etc. Studs spaced 16" on center etc.

Last rooms were real sloppy but did the job. budget was nill, and I went from studs on 24" centers to just enough to hold up the panda film. I was still able to mount my ballasts to it, hang things from the wall etc. No drywall or insulation but sealed real well with panda film.

No matter what if installing a prehung door, make sure you frame that right with proper dimensions, and double framing all the way around (jack studs I think). You dont want it floppy when installing your door.

You dont need drywall unless you want it for cosmetics, security or a little extra noise reduction.

Nobody should be close enough to your grow room to see it anyway.
 
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