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H3ad 6/9 cal/mag problems

Grat3fulh3ad

The Voice of Reason
Veteran
KNNA said:
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If you use it as hydro medium, of course you need to add all the nutes the plants needs, as coco is a near inert medium. Coco coir has a very high cation fixation capacity, as well as very high cation exchangeability. But its neccesary to mantain a equilibrium between the differents cation, otherwise lockouts appear. To manage this, ph control is the key, using all the hydro range (wide range:5,3-6,3, narrow range 5,6-6,1). If you run a ph over 5,8 continously, Ca accumulates in the medium and produces a lot of problems. Flush rids anions easily, but its more difficult wash out cations fixed in the medium.

There are 2 "schools" in coco coir growing: one use ph over 5,8 , add Mg continuosly and flush periodically (the advise of Kapt Krink), while the other use a wider ph range trying to avoid salts accumulation by ph management, without adding CalMg nor flushing...


 
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lysol

useful information pertaining to the topic at hand...
Best of luck, hope your garden flourishes, bro...
Thanks. Coming from hydro root rot a deficient plant is still considered flourishing to me right now hah.

Also, I like you quote "there are 2 different schools". I had a feeling *everyone*s methods are valid (even though not ALL nutrients are equally available at any single PH in any single medium, that I've heard of),

even that guy who derailed your thread h3ad.. he had a good point (that hillbilly guy) although he was a child after he stated it. Where he went wrong was trying to tell YOU your method did not work.
 

MarquisBlack

St. Elsewhere
Veteran
Here's my experience, and trust me, it's been a long hard one.

I grew in coco with 6/9 for a little over a year. Always ran into that Mag def, no matter what. Tried switching to R/O, tried half and half, still started showing the same problem at about 5 weeks into flower. Tried starting at a lower pH, etc, no go.

So here's a few tips I have for ya:

1) Less medium is more with coco. Big pots lead to roots dying off/general overwatering. The key in coco is to root the medium entirely, then give it the hydro feed rates/ratios. Until then it needs to be treated more along the lines of promix. (Dongle verified this by yielding more in smaller pots with the same veg time, in coco ebb and flow)

2) If you're using plain tap water to break down your coco, that's a problem. I use a pH adjusted 1/3-1/2 strength complete nutrient solution to break down the coco. (Or flush it, if it's the moist bagged stuff. Bcuzz, etc..) Anytime my problem seemed to be pH related, I had to bring the pH low to compensate for breaking down the coco in 7.0 tap water. At least that is what I have observed.

3) Check your mix, all cocos are not created equal. Some are mostly pith and as a result tend to hold more water/nutrients. (B'cuzz..) I like a little more "coco chip" to my medium. GH green bricks are the tits, IME.

I've since given up on using GH nutes in coco, but I've had VERY GOOD experience recently using Advanced Nutrients Sensi Bloom. (Their Monkey Juice was allegedly just Sensi A + B + CaMag, which led to the part B spoiling..)

No matter what strength I mix this stuff up at, it ends up at 5.8ph. I really need to figure out HOW it does that, but damn, it does it. (Ph-ppm perfect technology or whatever..)

I'll post my most recent results using Sensi grow/bloom in small, homemade coco slabs. (Less is more, remember that!) Gimme a minute to dig the camera out.

Edit: Here's a picture of my coco-slab light. 12 plants, 1000w HPS, week 3 of flower.

Started in cups, vegged for roughly 3 weeks after showing roots, transplanted to the slabs about 5 days before the flip. Over-vegged, I've grown this strain this whole time and it's never blown up like this. My canopies usually leave alot to be desired..



(Way darker green than I ever saw with 6/9)
 
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]A[Boss

Member
i have 20 ppm tap.. basically RO.. i have never had cal/mag probs with h3ads formula; and my plants are jsut as green as those expensive ass nutes ^
 

MarquisBlack

St. Elsewhere
Veteran
Sensi Bloom costs me roughly $80 for 4 liters of A and B. 1 gallon of Floranova Bloom costs me the same price, for roughly the same number of doses.

I digress, not trying to turn this into a GH vs. AN thread. However, I wish I would have tried the Sensi line sooner.
 

REZDOG

Active member
Veteran
useful information pertaining to the topic at hand...
Best of luck, hope your garden flourishes, bro...
picture.php

Note that this chart only shows ranges of maximum availability and some of the elements are available at a reduced level outside of those ranges... cross reference with these other charts, keeping in mind that coco has attributes of both soil and soilless media.
11083phnutrcombo2.gif



Nice post H3ad,gotta' love it! :)
How's things? Long time no chat-ski!
 
L

lysol

Pics as requested of tops w/ making sure I got best macro as possible
 

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chytil151

rez if i have probs at 5.5 im gonna be upset... but i'll try it and see.


I have noticed running at 5.5 to 5.8 in coco has been a lil bit better for what I have been doing. Sometimes I will get a little bit of a cal-mag deff. and that was w/ a ph of around 5.9 to 6.0 w/ 1 tsp./G of cal-mag plus, but lowering my ph just by a lil bit I don't see the deff. anymore.
 

REZDOG

Active member
Veteran
been well... busy as all hell, but healthy and happy...

how you been?

Gettin' by.... Working through some sadness,you understand.... But mostly all caught back up from that momentary clusterfuck from a while back....
We'll catch up at 420,have some coffee and catch up.
Good to see you on track for Spring,sounds like you've got some killer stuff planned,if there's any way I can be of service,you know how to reach me brother. :)


Cheers!


PS> Congrats on the Casey Jones,A'Damm,that's mucho fucking cool!
(And btw,I've been running 5.5 initial pH and it's worked out really (really!) well,the Hanna Gro-Check is fucking stellar....
 

reddy1

Member
ICMag Donor
5.5 feed ph works for me because my ph usually drifts up to 6.0(sometimes higher) after 24 hours.
 
L

lysol

If you water multiple times a day it would reset the PH more often and rezdog's method would have to be tweaked... would that make sense and explain why my plants still show defs at 5.5? I water 2x a day. What role does runoff play in the amount of PH drift that occurs?

Or alternatively maybe I could mix up my solution at 5.5, and leave it sitting out every day so it drifts in PH (that way by the end of the week I'm watering with 6.0).

Should I water less with the 5.5 method or try to make sure I am at least incurring enough PH drift? Going into the 6's PH fixed the mag problems but introduced K problems (way less severe tho, easy to fix.. drop the PH again :) )
 

MarquisBlack

St. Elsewhere
Veteran
If you water multiple times a day it would reset the PH more often and rezdog's method would have to be tweaked... would that make sense and explain why my plants still show defs at 5.5? I water 2x a day.

I think you might be on to something.
 

Wait...What?

Active member
Veteran
if your pH keeps rising on its own then there is your problem

get better water

mixing it to a pH of 5.6 on monday, it should read MAYBE 5.7 on thursday. grow/micro/bloom won't fuck with the pH but trying to be clever with additives will...
 

reddy1

Member
ICMag Donor
i wish i knew why it was doing that, i'm using RO water and fox farm nutrients, that's it, no additives. pH after 24 hours is the runoff, not the reservoir. GH users don't get any drift or am i alone?
 
L

lysol

Since I started using RO water I don't really get anymore drift. Even PH adjustments while mixing it up are way less of a headache. The mag deficiencies have slowed down, but not completely stopped yet. I'll keep growing this strain and changing stuff until I get it dialed tho
 
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