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Wanna Ask The Old Farts A Question?

HempKat

Just A Simple Old Dirt Farmer
Veteran
Now now you two, it's not that hard. I mean just because you have to devote every bit of your time, patience and care for 4-6 months, back to back, year to year, etc. Not to mention all the hard earned money you'll pour into having every little possible tool and product to enhance your grow. Also every second of every day as some part of your mind is wondering how you can make it better. It's not like it's that hard though, I mean afterall, it is just a weed. :D
 

HotSauce9826

New member
Love the thread HempKat!

Question:
I've been notcicing the very tips of some of my leaves are turning white and turning upward, what if anything does this indicate?

2.5 Weeks Flower
150 W HPS
FFOF Soil
FF Nutes
1/2 strength FF nutes(Grow Big, Big Bloom, Tiger Big) last night
 

HempKat

Just A Simple Old Dirt Farmer
Veteran
Love the thread HempKat!

Question:
I've been notcicing the very tips of some of my leaves are turning white and turning upward, what if anything does this indicate?

2.5 Weeks Flower
150 W HPS
FFOF Soil
FF Nutes
1/2 strength FF nutes(Grow Big, Big Bloom, Tiger Big) last night

Based on what you're saying it sounds like either heat stress or bleaching. Either way it typically happens from the plant being too close to the light. However, you've only given me a brief description and I don't know all the details of your grow like how far the light is from the plant or what sort of ventilation do you have? Plus it's near impossible to be certain without a clear picture showing the problem.
 

HotSauce9826

New member
Sorry about the lack of infoI was in a huge rush, freaking out and looking for a quick answer anywhere(super noob who just inherited a 3ft tall Flo plant 2 weeks into flower).

Its 10 inches away from the light, I dont have the best ventilation but I have a couple fans moving air in from the other room.

Humidity hovers around 25-30% and the temps range from 71-78 F

The plant in question:(sorry for shitty iPhone pics, its all i got)
flo2162010.jpg

The top leaves and bud sites look great its the leaves 1 or 2 levels down that the tips and curling is really noticable.

Here is a pic of the leaves and tips curling:
flo2172010curlingleaves.jpg


And here is a pic of a white tip, its right in the center. Its not that clear in the pics but its very noticable in person.
flo2172010whitetips.jpg
 

HempKat

Just A Simple Old Dirt Farmer
Veteran
Sorry about the lack of infoI was in a huge rush, freaking out and looking for a quick answer anywhere(super noob who just inherited a 3ft tall Flo plant 2 weeks into flower).

Its 10 inches away from the light, I dont have the best ventilation but I have a couple fans moving air in from the other room.

Humidity hovers around 25-30% and the temps range from 71-78 F

The plant in question:(sorry for shitty iPhone pics, its all i got)
flo2162010.jpg

The top leaves and bud sites look great its the leaves 1 or 2 levels down that the tips and curling is really noticable.

Here is a pic of the leaves and tips curling:
flo2172010curlingleaves.jpg


And here is a pic of a white tip, its right in the center. Its not that clear in the pics but its very noticable in person.
flo2172010whitetips.jpg

Ah well 10" for a 150W HPS is probably too far away. The white tip isn't heat or light stress. Your temp is fine, the humidity is a bit on the low side though. It's hard to tell what that is going on at the tip of that leaf but I'd say that for now it's nothing to worry about. My guess now having seen it, is it's either just aging or very very very slight nutrient burn. I don't see anything in that picture that looks bad. The also very very very slight leaf curl is probably related to the low humidity. Ideally humidity should be around 50-55% when lights are on.

Essentially there is nothing to worry about in that pic. Your biggest problem is that plant appears to be too tall for a 150W light. You'll get good buds at the very top but most of the plant will probably not produce anything worthwhile. If I was growing under a 150W light I wouldn't want my plant to be any taller then 18". I can't tell for sure the size of that plant but it looks like it's big enough to need at least a 400W light. Another thing to consider is this, once a plant hits flower life for that plant is drawing to an end. I'm not sure how long the strain Flo takes to flower but most strains people grow indoors finishes in around 8 or 9 weeks. As it gets closer to that date you'll see more and more of your leaves discolor and perhaps even die off, especially after about 4-5 weeks. This is normal and all part of the aging process.
 

HotSauce9826

New member
Thanks a bunch HempKat!

I realize now I may have overreacted to something quite minor, but me being new to this I REALLY dont want to screw it up. Especially now because I've been thrown into the deepend right away getting a plant thats already two weeks into flower.

I know the plant is waaaaayyy to tall, especially given the lamp, if had been up to me it would have been LST'd early in veg so it didnt get so tall and lanky. Thankfully this is something I plan to do for the rest of my life and I know I'll never stop learning more and more about this great hobby.
 

hoosierdaddy

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Ihave a suggestion...
HotSauce, I have supercropped plants that are further along than yours with great results. It may stall them a day or two, but the benefit of the auxins kicking in causing the rest of the buds to try and take top spot as a result of your supercropping, is well worth the effort.
Lots of read on the procedure.
 

HempKat

Just A Simple Old Dirt Farmer
Veteran
Thanks a bunch HempKat!

I realize now I may have overreacted to something quite minor, but me being new to this I REALLY dont want to screw it up. Especially now because I've been thrown into the deepend right away getting a plant thats already two weeks into flower.

I know the plant is waaaaayyy to tall, especially given the lamp, if had been up to me it would have been LST'd early in veg so it didnt get so tall and lanky. Thankfully this is something I plan to do for the rest of my life and I know I'll never stop learning more and more about this great hobby.

No problem and just keep this in mind. There's almost always going to be some leaf that doesn't look right. It's very rare to have a plant that doesn't have some leaves get discolored and eventually die off. So don't let yourself get too hung up on things like a spot here, or a slight discoloration there. You'll stress yourself out if you panic every time. Now that's not to say to ignore these sorts of things, they're usually a sign of something. Age, lack of light, too much light, lack of food, too much food, lack of water, too much water, etc. Also keep in mind that once discoloration appears on leaves it doesn't disappear. It's permanent damage, so when fixing the problem that caused it, don't look to the affected leaves to return to normal. Rather look for the problem to stop spreading to any new leaves.

As for your fear of screwing it up. Well most of the work has been done already. If you keep it's environment good and maintain a good steady feeding/watering schedule you should be fine. I'll warn you right now, as you get deeper into flower especially during the last couple of weeks, you'll see widespread leaf damage. This is all normal aging. Especially if you do like most people and flush (give your plants just water, no fertalizer) for the last week or two. Basically the plant is cannibalizing itself consuming the stored nutrients in the leaves.
 

HempKat

Just A Simple Old Dirt Farmer
Veteran
Ihave a suggestion...
HotSauce, I have supercropped plants that are further along than yours with great results. It may stall them a day or two, but the benefit of the auxins kicking in causing the rest of the buds to try and take top spot as a result of your supercropping, is well worth the effort.
Lots of read on the procedure.

Yeah I have to agree with this. 2 weeks into flower is not too late to train them. I didn't say anything before since HotSauce9826 is new and worried about making mistakes. I made sure he know's that plant is too tall for his light. Which it definately is, with a 150W he's only going to get an inch or two of good bud developement at the top with a plant that size.

Ideally you want to get your training done before flower but sometimes you got to do what you got to do. What you really want to avoid in flower, IMHO, is trimming or topping.
 

HotSauce9826

New member
hoosierdaddy & HempKat: I took your advice and supercropped the top of my plant and lowered the light 5 inches. Hopefully it will have a measurable impact. Thanks for the advice!!

flo2202010supercropped.jpg
 

hoosierdaddy

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I was sort of hesitant to suggest SC for your plant, since I saw you were very in tune and sensitive to any changes of the plant. But it looks like you studied up and went for it.
Good job. I think it will increase your bud production, and you should be pleased with the results. Just be aware that the branch that you pinched will try it's best to grow back up straight again. Put it back each day, or tie it in place until it starts to heal and it will stay there.
Like HK stated though, best to train early. My form of training is always LST from the first days they can take being tied...I'm talking right as the first set of 5 finger leaves emerge.
I keep tying down any nodes that grow up. I use pipe cleaners.
When there are about 4-5 nodes established, I will top or FIM (i suggest the former until you get a good feel for what happens when you top) one time only.
As long as you don't under/over feed or water, you can make the plant take on just about any shape you want with training.
It is also lots 'o fun!

Here is a couple shots of my recent training. There are four plants vegging in this shot. These plants have been in veg for 70 days today. *the small tops you see emerging would have been nothing but wispy popcorn at the bottom of the plant had I not trained these...they will be in contention for top bud now.
picture.php


You can see that I keep the stalks tied down pretty well. The stalks can get a bit criss-crossed and the fan leaves will sometimes get bound in a place they don't like when things are all tied up like this, so it is a good idea to every once and awhile take all the ties off and start over by retying them down. I am basically running the main step around the pot. Any tops that grow up, I add another tie.
You can see one in the shot ready to be tied.
picture.php


There is about 10 inches from the bottom of the pots to the top of the canopy, and about 12.5 inches to the bottom of the bulbs.
When they go into flower, I will keep the ties on the larger stalks until flowers first establish, and then I let her have her head all the way. Most will straighten themselves out pretty well, save for the large branches and the trunk. So, if you are doing this for space issues (I do it for yield not space) then you may want to leave most of the ties on well into flower. They can help place the buds where you want them so they can take in optimal light from your set-up.
Done right, you can create a screen-less ScroG this way.
picture.php


Remember, this is a 70 day old female that is no more than 10 inches in height, pot and all.
Lots of pipe cleaners, and patience.
Best of luck to you, Hot!

Just one more little thing I want to mention.....
Your light....
Those things can be heat sinks. Controllable but hot. You could effectively use an open 250watt bulb in the same grow and see about the same amount of heat. There isn't much room to work with on a worksite lamp like that, but if you could manage to get two holes in opposing sides and hook some ducts to it, you could air cool it.
Not throwing stones, just saying that if I were to improve my grow, I would first look at changing my light to a better set-up. I use an open 150hps in a small box blowing air right on it, and sucking air right off of it. and I can get within about 4 inches of the light with no issues.
 
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311devon

Member
Anything i should worry about here?

Anything i should worry about here?

Can anyone Tell me why only the tops of the leaf stems are purple/reddish/brownish.? I am not a total noob...grew few crops back in the late 80"s indoors and outdoors. must have read mj growers guide a hundred times back then. just way out of it and cant seem to find a definitive answer for this.
This is a Nirvana Snow White clone. The mother came from feminized seed. This girl was a gift from another amatuer grower i know who was very frustrated with his garden and pretty much just given up. She is 5-6 weeks old. When i got her she was in the container/soil she is in now and hadnt had a drink in 3 weeks. (supposedly, seems like a long time to me) The soil was bone dry, however, no wilting was present. the soil is MIracle Grow potting mix. yuck! i understand this mix is rather acidic...around 5.9 from what i read... i gave her a full soak down with unconditoned tap water ph 7.4 with 1/2 strength 5-1-1 fish emulsion. its is on a 11/13 cycle with 6500 lumens/ft of cfl. br bud style box. leaf tips (approx 1/2")knuckle down esp when removed from intense light. has one leaf down low that tipped out yellow an 1/8" in from the edge about halway up the leaflets. Other than that she shows good gowth and vigor. i flushed her out with 3gal ph7.1 areated water from a fishless 55g tank i keep 24hs before these pics were taken. i was thinking with the leaf tips knuckleing i had a nitrogen overload.i have no idea how much ferts are in this mix. I used the water from this tank after another very exp grower i know here in town informed me that our city water is loaded with nasty stuff that likes to complicate grows. max temps 79-80 min 64-62 humidity max 45% dark min 35% light......my growbox has a large amount of airflow, enough to keep her dancing a little.i have had her since feb 15. any thoughts?:whee:
 

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HempKat

Just A Simple Old Dirt Farmer
Veteran
Can anyone Tell me why only the tops of the leaf stems are purple/reddish/brownish.? I am not a total noob...grew few crops back in the late 80"s indoors and outdoors. must have read mj growers guide a hundred times back then. just way out of it and cant seem to find a definitive answer for this.
This is a Nirvana Snow White clone. The mother came from feminized seed. This girl was a gift from another amatuer grower i know who was very frustrated with his garden and pretty much just given up. She is 5-6 weeks old. When i got her she was in the container/soil she is in now and hadnt had a drink in 3 weeks. (supposedly, seems like a long time to me) The soil was bone dry, however, no wilting was present. the soil is MIracle Grow potting mix. yuck! i understand this mix is rather acidic...around 5.9 from what i read... i gave her a full soak down with unconditoned tap water ph 7.4 with 1/2 strength 5-1-1 fish emulsion. its is on a 11/13 cycle with 6500 lumens/ft of cfl. br bud style box. leaf tips (approx 1/2")knuckle down esp when removed from intense light. has one leaf down low that tipped out yellow an 1/8" in from the edge about halway up the leaflets. Other than that she shows good gowth and vigor. i flushed her out with 3gal ph7.1 areated water from a fishless 55g tank i keep 24hs before these pics were taken. i was thinking with the leaf tips knuckleing i had a nitrogen overload.i have no idea how much ferts are in this mix. I used the water from this tank after another very exp grower i know here in town informed me that our city water is loaded with nasty stuff that likes to complicate grows. max temps 79-80 min 64-62 humidity max 45% dark min 35% light......my growbox has a large amount of airflow, enough to keep her dancing a little.i have had her since feb 15. any thoughts?:whee:

Well given that the person you got it from was frustrated, that the plant hadn't been watered in 3 weeks but wasn't wilting and yet the soil was bone dry. This suggests that the type of miracle grow soil used was the kind with moisture control. Which is fine for growing outdoors in places that don't get much rain but terrible for indoors. So based on that I'd say the best first move is to repot it into some new soil and try to loosen and remove as much of the old soil as you can without damaging the roots too badly. This removes the potential problem of that moisture control element and it gives you the benefit of knowing what's in the soil rather then not knowing. I also wouldn't have it on a flowering schedule yet first I'd want to veg it back to health at 18 hours light and 6 hours dark and once I saw all problems were gone, then I'd switch to 12/12 to flower, I'd only use 11/13 for full blooded sativas from equatorial regions that are notorious for being difficult to flower.

Given the look of the plant here's what I think happened. I'm thinking the grower you got it from started it in that same pot from seed using miracle grow soil with moisture control. It looks also like he didn't use much if any additional perlite to improve drainage. That combined with the moisture control and that being much too big a pot for starting a seedling in probably all created a scenario where the roots weren't able to breath very well. Another possibility though is that their was no moisture control in the soil but rather that your friend overwatered that seedling. Either way it would cause stunted growth, poor root developement and poor root health, interfere with the plant's ability to get moisture and nutrients and that would also account for the plant's condition and your friend's frustration.

As for the discoloration there are all sorts of potential causes, being exposed to lower then normal temps for marijuana can cause stems and leaves to purple but some deficiences can cause that as well. Plus some strains just have purpling as a genetic trait. The brown stuff could be a variety of things. I'd say you could sum it all up as signs that the plant has had a rough life. My guess is that the purpling stems and off color of the upper leaves is a tempurature issue that interfered with nutrient uptake. The yellowing on that one leaf seems like at some point that leaf got too close to the light.
 

311devon

Member
thanks for the quick reply Hempkat....I am sure this is not moisture control soil. it will dry out almost bone dry to a 2-3 in depth in 3 days in my box. i think he is exaggerating how long it had been. i am very reluctant to repot or stress this girl any more than i have to, he had trouble with two of them going hermie on him. probably induced by him.he had a 400w hps 10" off of them at one point...he's a rather lazy gardener in my opnion..hes done 5 or 6 grows all with seeds and wispy buds.... my plan was to cut a few clones which i did, flower her out and be done with her..just get what i could...she is too large for my box and i thought id be better off with fresh start from a few clones...gonna bonsi one into a mom.....my box is set up to sog 20" high lollipops...small diameter containers 9 per sqft...Dr Budgreengenes style....she is filler until the march of the clones gets going good...as for the color of the stems....i agree that its is likely the temps. I see no other signs of p or k issues. wanted to see if someone with exp and not just book knowledge agreed. the 11/13 cycle was brought on in an effort to get her to finish as fast as possible....i know its gonna cut into my yield some. i just wanted to get her done and out the way to make room for the lollipops. i was assuming the upper leaves were a lighter brighter green due to them only being a few days old...she has put on about 6-10 inches of growth since i got her...i will include earlier pics of her.these pics show her after a the first good drink she got and one cycle under lights. she was vegged under only about 40w (2900 lumens) of cfl hung way to high in my opnion.24hr cycle. that accounted for the stretch she is showing in my mind. I know for sure this was a clone not started from seed. once again thanks for your thouhts!
 

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hoosierdaddy

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I would take the advise and repot no matter what. Lots more stress can happen by not re-potting if there are problems in that pot. You will almost never see any problem at all by re-potting a vegging plant. In most instances, in just a short period after re-potting, the plant will often go into overdrive with it's new digs.
I understand your reluctance, but that is why you are here, yes?
 
I have a learning curve in cloneing. Summer Temps & humid high. Clones well! Winter comes with the cold & low humidity Clones don't do well or at all. I need help with these areas. Do I get a small zip up clear tent with a humidifier? I use full strength hormex dip. clonex gel. I have coco & rock wool croutons to clone with. But have small amount bat guano in coco mix already, mexican 10-2-2 & pearlite with slilica powder & humic "rare earth" The humidity in my room is 10-30 % humidity. It is a basement, closed off with constant airflow, 465 cfm out, 200 cfm in. I have the little vented domes with heat mat & thermostat. With 100% results were in taped up edges of dome where it meets tray. I would waite for roots coming out the top if 6pack to open up tape. About 15-30 days all had great roots on them busting out every where. Please help.!!!
 
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