I have container that is 50cm x 70cm x 70cm(height) and a 30cmx30cmx70cm part of the box for air filters. I am gonna use at least 120mm vents on 5-12V and a few 92 for air mixing in the box and maybe one for intake. With what wattage would you go with mh and hps? Maybe is the CFL the right choise...A dont know maybe 150w of hps/mh and 200w for veg and 200w 2700k for flower cfl?
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Wanna Ask The Old Farts A Question?
- Thread starter HempKat
- Start date
Hempcat,
My hat goes off to you, man. You have got some good karma coming your way... your advice is reasoned, cautious and insightful, hence my question that I can't seem to find an answer to. Perhaps you can help... http://www.icmag.com/ic/images/smilies/newsmilies/prettyplease.gifleaf curling up around the edges. Why? Could this be heat stress?
Different plants in different stages, with different nute levels are having a similar problem.
Co2 @ 13,000 steady in day only
Temp parameters:
Day Max: 85f
Day Min: 74f
Day Average 81f steady temps
Humidity: 45%-65%.
5th and 6th weeks into flower
Sunshine mix #4
5- 7 gallon containers
Water every 5 days, full soak till pours out the bottom
House and Garden Nutes
Is this a problem that I should address? How
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The humidity seems a bit low for that heat level. If my grow room were that hot my humidity would be in the 60% range without me doing anything.
Another thing I notice is you say you have different plants at different stages and yet you water every 5 day? That probably shouldn't be. Maybe a new plant freshly transplanted into a 5 gallon pot might need 5 days between waterings but a plant that's been in a pot for more then 3 weeks should be needing water every 2-3 days. What I see in that picture looks like moisture stress from things being too dry.
I'm not familiar with that product but I agree with the guy in the thread you posted that says it looks like it should be safe. Good luck with your battle and don't forget to seriously sanitize your grow area after you get the plants out. Spider mites can be tough to get rid of if you give them half a chance to get established.
That's pretty tight, the max HID I'd go with for something that small is 150W but even then heat will rob you of space because you'll need to protect the plant. I'd go with CFL's probably for something that small.
ColBatGuano
Member
If a plant's roots are damaged during transplantation, is it beneficial to use foliar watering to assist it while it recovers? What is the best way to handle such a situation? I've found lots of posts which say be careful not to damage roots, but nothing on what to do if it happens. Thanks in advance.
Well it all depends on what you have to work with. If you're transplanting a small plant that's had little time to develope much of a rootball then yeah, you would need to be very careful. You shouldn't be transplanting such a plant however, but rather letting it fill the pot it's in with roots. Once you do that you can pull the plant out of the pot, roots, soil and all and the roots will have it all bound up in the shape of the pot. Now at this point you don't have to be as cautious, in fact one of the better things to do at a transplant involves intentionally damaging some of the roots, by scoring 4 sides of the rootball about a 1/2 inch deep with a utility knife, just before putting it in it's new pot and soil. This procedure helps the roots in the rootball from the old pot, to be able to fill the new pot quicker and more efficiently.
If you do the transplant right the plant isn't going to take long at all to recover, so there shouldn't be any special need for foliar feeding. You can foliar feed if you want to, if it's part of your normal routine but there's no special need. What you usually do when transplanting in soil is to wait until the plant's normal watering time. If you're letting the plant dry out between watering then it will be pretty light and less inclined to break apart while being handled. Then once it's transplanted the new pot is thoroughly watered and that should be enough to hold it for the next several days. Some people add vitamin B supplements like Superthrive which is said to work at reducing stress in plants and stimulate good root developement. I've done transplants with and without superthrive and I saw no noticable difference and in both cases the plant's growth was slowed so little it was hardly noticeable.
If they have everything they need and start yellowing from the lowest leaves up,that's the sign they are using up the N. right? No lockout,no burn,no wilting,no spots on leaves,nothing but gradual yellowing from bottom up over a couple weeks....need more N.?????
ColBatGuano
Member
Thanks HempKat. What happened was I pulled out the plant, and for some reason, a third of one side of the soil around the root ball collapsed, pulling off many of the roots on that side. Probably was moist on that side, making it heavy.
I think it's going to be fine. Foliar feeding isn't part of my routine. I was just thinking about how cuttings need to be fed that way because they lack roots. Superthrive is pretty cheap at my local nursery shop, but even the salesperson there said it doesn't seem to make much difference.
I think it's going to be fine. Foliar feeding isn't part of my routine. I was just thinking about how cuttings need to be fed that way because they lack roots. Superthrive is pretty cheap at my local nursery shop, but even the salesperson there said it doesn't seem to make much difference.
Ok so i have made some dissisions, and would like your opinion. I was going to abandon the strains I have but have decided to stick with ghs the church as it is great outdoors and easy to grow all around, the smoke is very good, not the best but not had any complaints. The super lemon haze has been a disaster many different phenos and alot of hermies, I am sure that it has to do with my grow style but I am going to abandon this strain for a while. I am determined to make this work. I have had decent results with ghs the church out of 100 beans i cracked I have only got 1 male and 0 hermies. It seams to have a very uniform pheno as I can only find 2. One that is short and bushy and 1 that is tall and not as bushy. These are my thoughts, I need plenty for my outdoor garden this year and will also be tending indoor as well threw out. I am starting over from scratch.
I will pop 100 beans and seperate phenos all short bush like phenos will stay indoors and all tall phenos will go out. I will also select several mother plants from each pheno to try to get some really strong mothers. I have had very bad luck with cloning I believe due to the fact that I have bean pulling my clones of my 6 wk. vegged plants before flowering, and in some cases after they have been in 12/12 for a while, before they show signs of flowering.
I believe this stunts the growth of my clones and they never grow to there potencial.
So my quistions are, since I have never grown out true mother plants.
What is the best way to grow out a qaulity mother plant that will produce many quality clones? I plan on doing several of these so that I can achieve anough to do a true sog as you said. Perpetual hopefuly with a harvest every 8 weeks.
Also what I mean by best way would be, pot size,special nutes, light regiman, light intensity,
My quistions for sog. what size pots do you use ? do you take clones from the bottom branches of the clones after they root or is this not good practice ? As you said that you basicly lollypop these.
I appreciate your help thank you in advance
Auto
I will pop 100 beans and seperate phenos all short bush like phenos will stay indoors and all tall phenos will go out. I will also select several mother plants from each pheno to try to get some really strong mothers. I have had very bad luck with cloning I believe due to the fact that I have bean pulling my clones of my 6 wk. vegged plants before flowering, and in some cases after they have been in 12/12 for a while, before they show signs of flowering.
I believe this stunts the growth of my clones and they never grow to there potencial.
So my quistions are, since I have never grown out true mother plants.
What is the best way to grow out a qaulity mother plant that will produce many quality clones? I plan on doing several of these so that I can achieve anough to do a true sog as you said. Perpetual hopefuly with a harvest every 8 weeks.
Also what I mean by best way would be, pot size,special nutes, light regiman, light intensity,
My quistions for sog. what size pots do you use ? do you take clones from the bottom branches of the clones after they root or is this not good practice ? As you said that you basicly lollypop these.
I appreciate your help thank you in advance
Auto
Yes that's generally the sign of an N deficiency. Not knowing anything more there's not much more I can add. The only other thing I can think of would be if the growth above it is so thick the lower growth isn't getting any light and is dying off from that.
Ah well for something like that, if you minimized it with careful handling you should be okay still. Maybe you'll see a brief delay of a couple of days of slow growth?
Thanks,I was pretty sure that was it. Just nice to hear it from an old fart! Peace
Well the way I handle clones is this. I take a plant/strain I want to clone and while it's still in veg I take two clones, from anywhere. If the plant is going to be flowered then I might top her in which case I'll clone that. I keep the mother in veg until the clones establish roots and then I either kill the mother or I flower her. Now I have two copies of the same plant. One is more or less a back up. I grow them in one gallon pots under 4 x 40W T-8 fluoros for as long as I can until they become root bound. I start with enriched potting soil and don't feed until they show signs of needing food. Then I feed them half strength doses. I essentially try not to give them too much of anything without depriving them to keep growth slow. Generally doing this I can mantain, with trimming, a small bush for 2 months give or take a couple of weeks. At that point I take 2 more clones of each plant, again from any where. Also again, I either kill or flower the mothers. What I'm getting at is I don't do anything special to keep a mother around a long time. I just clone a new one when I take clones or as needed to preserve a strain into the future for another couple of months. If I'm just trying to buy time like that then once the 4 clones I now have establish roots I weed out the two slowest of each strain so that I don't end up creating too many plants for me to manage. All I want at that time is two healthy speciemen's of each strain. After the 2 months of growing, because of the triming, I'll have a bushy plant with a good dozen candidates for clones on each plant. So based on that knowledge I just get enough started ahead of time to have enough mothers on hand to create the number of clones I'll need.
As for what size pot do I use in SOG, well I've not settled on one yet but I've tried 2 and both worked fine. The first type were made from 2 liter soda bottle that end up being 1.5 liter pots. This allowed me to achieve 9 per square foot or 66 plants on a 2 foot by 4 foot table. That seemed a bit much to manage so now I'm trying out these one gallon pots that are 6" x 6" and 7" deep. I can only fit 32 of them on the same table but it's much easier to manage that way.
As for taking clones, I say if it looks like a healthy grow tip then take that clone, doesn't matter if it's at the top, middle or bottom.
gabjaz
Member
I need advise
I need advise
I have a few things that I need help with. My friend has 4 c99XNL plants that are in (I think) the pre-flowering stage. They are all really bushy. Lot's of secondary growth.
*Is there someplace on this site or can someone give advise on weather some leafs or branches should be cut off to allow for more light to the bud regions?
*Also, there is some development in the calyx region, but we haven't been able to sex the plants yet. On a few there are what looks like white hairs pistals. Is it only the female that has pistals? I know if there are two It's a female, but they are so small right now we can't tell if there are more than one.
*Is this a good time to switch from the 600 Watt HPS to the 600 watt MH.
I know you all have probable been asked these questions a hundred time, but I have searched the site and books and am still confused.
Thank you, GJ
I need advise
I have a few things that I need help with. My friend has 4 c99XNL plants that are in (I think) the pre-flowering stage. They are all really bushy. Lot's of secondary growth.
*Is there someplace on this site or can someone give advise on weather some leafs or branches should be cut off to allow for more light to the bud regions?
*Also, there is some development in the calyx region, but we haven't been able to sex the plants yet. On a few there are what looks like white hairs pistals. Is it only the female that has pistals? I know if there are two It's a female, but they are so small right now we can't tell if there are more than one.
*Is this a good time to switch from the 600 Watt HPS to the 600 watt MH.
I know you all have probable been asked these questions a hundred time, but I have searched the site and books and am still confused.
Thank you, GJ
goneforasmoke
Member
I have 6 plants set up in my room with a 400watt light on then,
But i have a problem, my new room is ready with a 600watt light much better fans intake and exhaust, but my plants are 7 weeks into flower and nearly finished, is it worth moving them into the new room, or will this damaged them, or will i benefit with the better fans.
But i have a problem, my new room is ready with a 600watt light much better fans intake and exhaust, but my plants are 7 weeks into flower and nearly finished, is it worth moving them into the new room, or will this damaged them, or will i benefit with the better fans.
There is a thread here on the site dedicated to the topic of cutting off leaves and such to allow more light to the buds. It's a heavily debated topic with strong opinions on either side. The bottomline though is you got to decided for yourself what's right. Does the plant know better by putting the leaves out there or do we know better by trimming leaves to allow light to hit the buds?
It can be hard to spot pre-flowers at first. There's other growth the can often fool you in it's earlier stages. The good news is that once you do spot them you'll know for sure in the future what things are. It's been my experience that when a preflower shows hairs they will show enough where you can tall for sure there are two. I've never heard or have seen pistils that come in one at a time. As for what plants have them yes, it's just females. Unless you have a hermie which is a plant that has both male and female flowers.
As for the light, well currently you're vegging and vegging is best done under MH, you can do it under HPS and it'll still work but it's better to veg under MH because it's consider giving off blue spectrum light which is known to be conducive to vegatative growth. The reverse is true in flower, you can flower under MH if you have to and get good growth but you'll get better growth flowering under an HPS because that's mostly red spectrum light and that's known to be good for flower production. So really you should have already been under the MH and asking if now is a good time to switch to HPS. Which the answer is no if the plant hasn't sexed yet and is still in veg,
It shouldn't harm them but if it's that late in flower it's probably not going to help much either.
gabjaz
Member
Oh crap, I have been vegging under the HPS. Would you recommend that I switch over to the MH until I go to the 12/12?
Thank you so much and I know that I am asking really dumb questions!
Well here's one more~ These plants are really bushy and taking up most of the available room in the grow space. Would it work at this point to take clipping and try to flower them to determine sex so that the males can be removed?
You could switch from the HPS to MH if you wanted but it's not going to make that much of a difference because you probably will be going to 12/12 before the difference produced any noticeable results. Still if I were you I would and here's why. Like I said, you'll probably be going to flower soon. During the first 2 to 3 weeks of flower the plant goes thru what they call the stretch phase. During the stretch phase a plant can sometimes double even triple in size. What's bad about HPS in veg is that it can cause plants to stretch even without going to flower, in fact this phenomenon is called HPS stretch. MH doesn't do this and since it sounds like your plants are getting a bit big it might be helpful to have the MH running until the 3rd week of 12/12 and then switch back to the HPS. Hopefully the MH light will help keep the stretch to a minimum. Keep in mind though, I'm saying all this based on just what you've written, it's kind of hard to say what you should do without seeing where your plants are at developement wise. You feeling they're so bushy you either need to get rid of any males or thin out the leaves suggests they're ready for 12/12 now but then again you're idea of too bushy might be different then mine. Anyway to recap on the lights, either kind, MH or HPS can be used from the moment the plants sprout until the day of harvest. So it's not a big deal that you used HPS in veg.
You could try to take clones, root them and then flower them to determine sex so you can get rid of males and free up space. The only problem is, that whole process could take as much as a month, maybe even longer and after another month or so of growing the plants you have will be even bigger and bushier. At this point the only reason I would take clones is to preserve the strain in which case I wouldn't be flowering them right away. If I were you, based on what you're saying but with no pictures, I'd just go ahead and put
the plants that are too bushy in flower and then when/if any males show up, pull them out of the grow room and get rid of them.
