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EasyRyder Smart pot 400W HPS

Zendo

Member
Here is the start of my EasyRyder grow. 10 Joint Dr. Fem. EasyRyders from seed to yield/smoke. Being a legal medical grow, I need to keep my numbers down, so I will be starting these a few weeks apart in sets of 5. I have a single 400W HPS, and will be adding a second 400W any day now. These will run 20/4 throughout.

I will be doing some experiments with soils, nutrients, and teas as I am searching for what will work best in my grows. Eventually I plan to use LC's mix#2 for my base, but I have some already purchased fox farm soils. So I will be using bits and pieces I have picked up from ICC, and from the moderators over at the organic soil threads. I consider these "experiments" only because they don't follow any of the recipes exactly.

The seeds sprouted and were put in starter pots on the 13th of Jan. in Happy Frog soil. I will transplant around day 15 into the 5 gallon pots.

To start, I will be doing 5 EasyRyders in 5 Gallon smart pots.
60% Fox Farm Ocean Forest
30% Fox Farm Happy Frog
10% perlite
2 tbs/gallon dolomite lime


I will be feeding always with a base tea bubbled for 24-36 hrs of:
5 gallons H20
1 heaping cup Earthworm castings (some teas will be with a fungal dominated EWC that has 'cooked' with 3 Tbs powdered baby oatmeal for a few days)
4 tbs Unsulphered blackstrap molasses (this was changed to 1TBS after bacterial blooms)
1 T of SP 90 Humic Acid

Starting at flowering, around day 17-21 I will feed every 3rd watering with the base tea and add

5 TBS Neptunes Harvest Fish/Seaweed 2-3-1

I will also be using a 1/2 cup of a 'special' food tea once in veg and once in mid flower that I purchased from the guys at http://www.simplici-tea.com/product_pagex.htm . This is a food mix that contains sulfate of potashmagnesia, feather meal, soymeal, cottonseed meal, mycorrhizal, kelp, and alfalfa meal. I may toss in small handfuls of this from time to time as well.

I will use this until day 65-70, and finish out with plain water for 10 days. I will harvest when trich's are 20%+ amber, and will do a smoke/smell and yield report when dried, and then again after 2-4 week cure.

All updates will include pictures, and will be regular. After I decide on the recipe for the 2nd set of 5, I will edit this first post. Any comments or opinions are welcome.

EDIT..

2nd set there will be 3, instead of 5. 3 more Easy Ryder.


These were sprouted and put into starter pots on the 26th of Jan.

They will end up in 5 gallon smart pots with:
60% (a 50/50 mix of FF Ocean Forest AND FF Happy frog)
30% perlite
10% earth worm castings

I have decided to feed these the same as the first set.
 

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Zendo

Member
Thanks for the support guys!

The first set of 5 are on day 16 today, and looking well. The second set of 5 have been sprouted, and are in the starter pots.

I will edit my first post to have the soil differences and nutrient differences for the second set of 5. I will also have to modify my watering with nutes days, as I was not thinking about transplanting, as I usually plant auto's directly into final container to start with..

These will have to wait for at least 10 days after transplanting to start the nutes, as I don't want to burn them.

Tonight I will transplant the first 5 into the smart pots, and will water with base tea and Liquid Karma, and we'll be off and running.

Here are some pictures from day 14, two days ago.

 

Zendo

Member
It's day 20 today, and things are looking good. The first 5 easy's may have been stunted by the transplant. They are looking 100%, but they haven't auto'ed yet, and I suspect that it will be about 2-3 days to make up for the stunt time.

Last time, when planted right into final container from seed they flowered around day 18.

Note: Make sure to turn off humidifier before lights out..:joint: otherwise your humidity may pop up to 84%......

 

Grimr3efer

Member
This is cool. I just started working with some short ryders. Popped a few this week. I'm looking forward to short flower times. I got my easychair kicked back for this.
 

Zendo

Member
I was in the same boat..There were a few I wanted to try and it came down to Easy or Diesel Ryder, or the BHD..

I figured I would go with Easy as i've followed a few journals for it, and the potential yields are what grabbed me.I would like to get a little more than I got out of my first batch of Lowryder#2's. I also wanted to see what the SS#1's were like, and since they were freebies, I went for this pair.

Eventually though, I'd like to try them all!
 
I

IceColdCrickets

good to see a nice organic grow under 400w HPS with Easy Ryder, not much info on this strain true performance, will be watching.

ICC :joint:
 

Clackamas Coot

Active member
Veteran
Zendo

I have a few years of experience with SmartPots (non-cannabis, i.e. tree saplings for which these type of pots were first developed.) which are known as 'auto-pruning' nursery pots which is a good thing for growing out small saplings and larger varieties of nursery stock that are used by landscape contractors.

I love this product line but a couple of things are important to consider when using these pots.

1. Complete hydration is a tad different than the standard lipped-nursery pots we've all used. When you apply your water start near the stalk and work out to the edges of the pot. If you start at the edge you'll see water coming out of the sides of the pot but the center area of the soil mass will not be fully saturated.

2. Re-potting is far more challenging with a SmartPot and I would strongly recommend that you don't attempt it until you have a couple of cycles under your belt. Starting your rooted cuttings into the final SmartPot will preclude a number of issues.

HTH

CC
 
C

ChynaRyder

:yeahthats

good advice...I too use these in my nursery, and they have revolutionized the way in which I run a nursery...good stuff.

To expand on the transplanting notion....I wouldn't if it were autos...they are far to finicky with their roots...being a sprinter, any nick in the gear will slow the performance..so I would advise you in all cases of growing autos in smart pots, once the plant sexes in a cup or whatever, plant into final pot at that point...or start them in the final smart pot from the get go (I dont have room for this as I dont use fem seed, but this would be the best way to do it if indeed you were using good fem beans) Fill that baby with lots of good organics and let er rip!

Good luck on your grow, I am interested to see your results.
 

Clackamas Coot

Active member
Veteran
:yeahthats

good advice...I too use these in my nursery, and they have revolutionized the way in which I run a nursery...good stuff.

To expand on the transplanting notion....I wouldn't if it were autos...they are far to finicky with their roots...being a sprinter, any nick in the gear will slow the performance..so I would advise you in all cases of growing autos in smart pots, once the plant sexes in a cup or whatever, plant into final pot at that point...or start them in the final smart pot from the get go (I dont have room for this as I dont use fem seed, but this would be the best way to do it if indeed you were using good fem beans) Fill that baby with lots of good organics and let er rip!

Good luck on your grow, I am interested to see your results.
ChynaRyder

When we have to transplant sapplings into larger SmartPots (lack of sales in that particular year being the main reason) we simply cut the pot away from the root ball reducing any damage to the tree's root system.

Buying them in bulk thereby reducing the per unit cost makes this a win-win deal.

HTH

CC
 

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