Tutorial Organics for Beginners

[guest2012y]

So I just picked up 3 fat sacks of worm castings from some cat who has a worm farm just around the corner. He bags and sells the castings...3 - 30lb. bags for $45!!!!! I can feel the magic already.

Here's a question for anyone........I have some really nice looking black soil all around my Olympic rain forest home. It's volcanic/glacial wash that is really rich. The local organic farms produce some of the best looking stuff you can find at the Farmer's Market. So since it looks so good,and surely is,what would be the risks of just digging some up and incorporating it in my mix? Considering that I dig down at least 6 inches or more to avoid dormant bugs and such.
I understand that if I pick up some mean old root munching grub,I may not have a natural predator from down the street in soil world to take care of him. How bad could this be? This soil looks beautiful,I would love to use it. What do you think?

 

[K.J]

hey KJ i dont think using uncooked light soil will be a problem. ive done it a few times before with no ill effects. cooking is more for getting the ferts to start beaking down anyway.

V.

Thanks for the feedback Verdant. That's great news, especially because we have yet to receive our lime! Ugh! I'm praying it will be here tomorrow, then we can finally get this soil on the right track. I just got done stirring both soil containers, and they're both looking and smelling great. Hopefully it won't be an issue that we added the lime so late.

 

[Batboy]

Conversion confusion

Conversion confusion

Sorry for the stupid (and slightly off-topic) question.

I just realized that there is a difference when converting to dry gallons versus liquid gallons. I have always seen that 1 cubic foot of soil is equal to 7.5 gallons. However, I now see that this uses a liquid gallon conversion, whereas 1 cubic foot is actually equal to 6.5 DRY gallons.

Soooo...what is the right way to convert for purposes of the soil mixes? I'd say that a difference of 1 gallon per cubic foot is a lot! I've got a container of about 2.2 cubic feet of pro mix. I'm trying to decide if I put in 4.7 gallons of perlite and EWC, or 5.6 gallons.





.

 

[grapeman]

I know Burn1 says he doesn't ph his nute/tea mix, but I am wondering if anyone has ever taken a soil ph measurement during a successful grow. Just as a point of reference, it would be useful information to have. At least I think so.

 

[growclean]

I am wondering if you can help me in the area of foliar spraying for beginners. I have read and talked to folks and am trying to come up with a schedule to try. So far we have done 0 foliar spraying. At a local get together yesterday, another grower (not focused on organics) told me that his schedule was as follows:

Day 1 : Seaweed/kelp
Day 2: Water Rinse
Day 3: Superthrive (This didn't sound like an organic based product and he didn't know)
Day 4: Water Rinse
Day 5: Seaweed/Kelp
Day 6: Rinse
Day 7: Rest
Repeat all the way through veg, no foliar once he starts 12/12.

I have picked up some other tidbits from reading, like to foliar prior to watering on watering days, to raise the lights for awhile while the foliar dries. I know that we can foliar spray with our veg tea which we are doing every third watering. So is there any other product we should be using?

I was thinking of just alternating maxicrop diluted with water then rest and then always our tea on tea days. The tea does not need to be diluted correct? Am I missing anything.

 

[guest2012y]

I know Burn1 says he doesn't ph his nute/tea mix, but I am wondering if anyone has ever taken a soil ph measurement during a successful grow. Just as a point of reference, it would be useful information to have. At least I think so.

I have had multiple very happy gardens and took readings via pen and those tests you can pick up at the hardware store. The ph was 6.3 to 6.5. This is were where I noticed the best perfomance of all the collective conditions that these girls thrive on. I grew Bubbleberry,Reclining budda,Bubblegum,and my own crosses..for many many grows. Key word "GREW" because of course I only grow tomatoes...

 

[BurnOne]

I am wondering if you can help me in the area of foliar spraying for beginners. I have read and talked to folks and am trying to come up with a schedule to try. So far we have done 0 foliar spraying. At a local get together yesterday, another grower (not focused on organics) told me that his schedule was as follows:

Day 1 : Seaweed/kelp
Day 2: Water Rinse
Day 3: Superthrive (This didn't sound like an organic based product and he didn't know)
Day 4: Water Rinse
Day 5: Seaweed/Kelp
Day 6: Rinse
Day 7: Rest
Repeat all the way through veg, no foliar once he starts 12/12.

I have picked up some other tidbits from reading, like to foliar prior to watering on watering days, to raise the lights for awhile while the foliar dries. I know that we can foliar spray with our veg tea which we are doing every third watering. So is there any other product we should be using?

I was thinking of just alternating maxicrop diluted with water then rest and then always our tea on tea days. The tea does not need to be diluted correct? Am I missing anything.

There is absolutely no need to foliar feed unless there is an emergency.
Burn1

 

[BurnOne]

I know Burn1 says he doesn't ph his nute/tea mix, but I am wondering if anyone has ever taken a soil ph measurement during a successful grow. Just as a point of reference, it would be useful information to have. At least I think so.

It doesn't matter what the pH of the soil is. The humates let the plant take up food within a wide range of soil or liquid pH.
Burn1

 

[growclean]

There is absolutely no need to foliar feed unless there is an emergency.
Burn1

B1,
Just so I am further educated. Is it harmful if there doesn't appear to be a problem? Is it all helpful or only in the case of seeing a deficiency? Do you ever spray neem at any in your grow (if you don't see a spider mite problem, maybe just for prevention)?

 

[guest2012y]

It doesn't matter what the pH of the soil is. The humates let the plant take up food within a wide range of soil or liquid pH.
Burn1

By the way Burn,I top dressed with EWC and some great looking native topsoil and watched my yellow turn to green roughly in 3 days. Thanks

 

[BurnOne]

B1,
Just so I am further educated. Is it harmful if there doesn't appear to be a problem? Is it all helpful or only in the case of seeing a deficiency? Do you ever spray neem at any in your grow (if you don't see a spider mite problem, maybe just for prevention)?

Why do you want to do something that isn't necessary? Stuff like that is what causes 50% of the problems with beginners. KISS
Burn1

 

[vonforne]

There is absolutely no need to foliar feed unless there is an emergency.
Burn1

This is one time I will have to slightly disagree with you Master.

Folair feeding is not only good for delivering nutrients via the leaf surface but also in the application of bacteria that help protect the plant from pests and disease.

V

 

[vonforne]

Also, I do spray a couple of weeks in advance......notice the shiny leaves in my gallery........I spray Neem oil a few weeks in advance to flowering just for a prevention. And neem is also great for the plants.

V

 

[BurnOne]

Vonforne-
I agree with you.
But this thread is for beginners. Not Gurus like you. LOL
I find that beginners need to stick to the basics. Keep things as simple as possible until they get a few grows finished successfully. Then they can try new things.
Burn1

 

[Metatron]

This is great information, can anyone tell me how long EWC or guanos take to break down? If I were to top feed, how long would it be before I could top feed again?

 

[Bad_Replicant]

Thanks again for this thread!

Need a bit of advice. I am following this regimen:

LC's Soiless Mix #2:

+

RECIPE #1

If you want to use organic nutes like blood, bone and kelp...

My problem is that my seedlings were one week old when I started my RECIPE #2. Now at two weeks old, my gals are looking hungry, but my mix needs another week to properly cure.

So...

Can I feed these plants something to tide them over for a week? I have molasses and EWC, so I was wondering if the following tea will tide them over for a week until the mix is ready?

Thanks for any advice.

Worm casting tea-
5 tbs. Black Strap Molasses
1-cup earthworm castings/5 gallons of water every 3rd watering

...if five gallons is way too much, use 1/4 cup worm castings and 1 gallon of water with 1 tablespoon molasses.

 

[vonforne]

Vonforne-
I agree with you.
But this thread is for beginners. Not Gurus like you. LOL
I find that beginners need to stick to the basics. Keep things as simple as possible until they get a few grows finished successfully. Then they can try new things.
Burn1

You are correct. BUT we could give them the basics so it is a regular part of their routine.

V

 

[vonforne]

Thanks again for this thread!

Need a bit of advice. I am following this regimen:

My problem is that my seedlings were one week old when I started my RECIPE #2. Now at two weeks old, my gals are looking hungry, but my mix needs another week to properly cure.

So...

Can I feed these plants something to tide them over for a week? I have molasses and EWC, so I was wondering if the following tea will tide them over for a week until the mix is ready?

Thanks for any advice.

That will be fine. You do not want to give the seedlings too much. Are the lower leaves yellowing?

V

 

[Bad_Replicant]

That will be fine. You do not want to give the seedlings too much. Are the lower leaves yellowing?

V

Thanks.

I have a couple varieties growing. On one (sativa dominant), the "feeder leaves" have turned yellow, and the leaves overall are starting to yellow. On the other (indica dominant) the feeders are still green as are the leaves.

edit: I should point out that the largest of these "seedlings" is now 8" in diameter. I don't know what the cut off is...

 

[vonforne]

This is great information, can anyone tell me how long EWC or guanos take to break down? If I were to top feed, how long would it be before I could top feed again?

It all depends on many things as far as the organic materials in the soil breaking down. The amount of bacteria and other organisms, the Temperature.......etc.

And what is the mix you are using? I cannot answer the second question. I need more inf.


Bad_Replicant

Thanks.

I have a couple varieties growing. On one (sativa dominant), the "feeder leaves" have turned yellow, and the leaves overall are starting to yellow. On the other (indica dominant) the feeders are still green as are the leaves.

edit: I should point out that the largest of these "seedlings" is now 8" in diameter. I don't know what the cut off is...

For the ones that are turning yellow you might want to transplant now and give them a tea if the yellowing is tat bad. One week will not make much difference. The sativas can take the EWC with no problem now.

V